Keeping my S2R 800 going and healthy. Winter small things, again ...

[dimirex]

Pistons: no cracks, all rings good, compression test good

What type of Pistal pistons are you using on this big bore modification?

[stopintime]

What type of Pistal pistons are you using on this big bore modification?

I've used two different types. The first pair was drop in 90mm - can't remember if they had a specific name. The next two were specific for 750 Laguna F1. The most recent, which burned themselves/itself was another "no specific name".

The dome on the 750 pairs had to be machined down, or rather inward, to keep them from exploding by high compression. The base gaskets/spacers were a couple of mm different.

After all, not quite plug & play, but in the end VERY satisfying.

Plans?

[dimirex]

I am thinking of going the same path as what you 've done so far: I will start with a big bore kit and then proceed with a mild head porting (just to keep it more durable). Any suggestions are more than welcome!!!

[stopintime]

I think I said; if I had to do it again, I wouldn't 

The pistons are just one of a few components necessary to make it sing, roar and fly. The Ducati Performance ECU (or similar flashing/tuning), open airbox and a nice exhaust is by itself improving the performance by 2-3 bhp and 8-10 (?) Nm.

To reach the next level AND protect it against premature failure, money is required. More money than sensible. Balance crankshaft, better rods, pistons, larger intake valves, port, polish & other headwork. Doing just a few will restrict the power gains.

The (almost) full race tune package is INCREDIBLY fun, but it drains your wallet. Especially if you ride a lot, and hard.

Everyone deserves to be a little crazy, but I think that a medium effort is more or less a waste of money. Then it's better to do just the first level and maybe choose brakes and/or suspension instead.

[dimirex]

Thank you stopintime!

When I said, I'm in the same path as you are, that meant craziness included 
This is the current modification status of the bike: https://www.instagram.com/p/CwvFcIzquon

That being said, I am willing to do it step by step so I can feel the difference of each mod: big bore kit first and then the cylinder head job.

I know that swapping to a 1000DS engine is a more sensible choice but cost wise it will be near as to modding the 800. Whatever engine I manage to get it will definitely need an overhaul plus upgrading whereas for the 800, I am the first owner, it has low milage (23K km) and had a lot of TLC since new - apart for some trackdays and spirited rides   

...looking at this bike you can tell that there is a lack of rationality!

[stopintime]

Howie: I replaced the fuel filter. No difference.

Nate: Not long ago you answered mine(or someone else's) question about the fuel flange "IN" and "OUT" markings. One of my lines is marked M and is currently on the "OUT" hole. IIRC the bike started and ran when I mounted my fuel tank recently (after fitting new filter and low fuel light thermistor) with that mounting.

Not necessarily related:
Today I wanted to ride a little, to see if I believe the bike will run to the Netherlands for it's fix. Started fine, so I killed it after two seconds. Did some light after winter cleaning - brakes, chain, tires, wind screen, lights and seat. Very little water, but... Tried to start it again, but now it wouldn't fire. Fuel ok, prime ok, battery at 12,6 volts. After about ten attempts battery at 12 volts and it doesn't turn.

It's raining. Snow during the night. I plan to leave in ten days.   

[ducpainter]

The M is for mandare.  The other line should be marked R. You have it connected correctly.

[koko64]

Yep, mandata and riturno. Mandate (delivery) and Return. Whats the voltage drop when cranking? Just in case it's too low for the ECU to think. Does the fuel pump prime noise sound normal or "bubbly", agitated or tired?
I had what might have been an air lock on an M1100 the other day after refitting the fuel lines. With a freshly charged battery but low fuel level I had to try a few times. It was like bleeding an air lock in a radiator. The pump made a bubbly noise when priming. I removed the lines a couple of times between attempts to start. It's happened before on other bikes now that I think about it.

Check the plugs aren't wet.

[greenmonster]

Probably not the cause since yours started once, but,
last year mine didn't start after winter rest without a gallon of fresh fuel.
Petrol degradation people mentioned seems real to me.

[stopintime]

Priming sound is ok.

Spark ok on both plugs.

One plug dry (rear, which is the troublesome cylinder). Horisontal "damp"(?)

Fuel pressure in the lines.

13.3 volt after tonights charge. Around 11 while cranking. 12.1 after several attempts - at which point it wasn't very willing to turn over.

One Shot spray made it run for a few seconds (5-10?). Unknown on which cylinder, but when I gave it some throttle it backfired up from the rear cylinder and stopped.

To me, the weird thing is that it fired and ran yesterday, but then wouldn't an hour later or today. Fuse box fuses ok. Stand alone fuse/relay for injectors? Couldn't see fuel spray under the air filter box - should I be able to see it there or do I have to remove them to see any spray directly?

[MonsterHPD]

 Haven't checked the whole thread, but maybe swap injectors between the cylinders and see if the problem follows the injectors?

[koko64]

That suggestion has merit.

What about testing for spark?

Worth sonically cleaning injectors that sit.  A mate who works at a local bike shop said that they occasionally find blocked and gummed up injectors. Some of the modern fuel additives gum up the injector holes in bikes that sit for months. This is more applicable to down here where the fuel  is the poorest quality among OECD countries.

[stopintime]

Thanks

I have spark.

Ethanol free fuel only.

The mysterious thing here is that it started and ran as normal a couple of months ago when I mounted the tank with new thermistor and filter. Two days ago it started and ran well - although not for long since I soon killed it (neighbour consideration)

All the electrical stuff I have been able to test now, spark being the most important, is ok.

It 'kind of' runs with One Shot, so lack of fuel is suspect number one. No?

Can I expect to see fuel spray in the intake when the air filter is removed? From the injectors if they are lifted out, but still connected?  If it's possible to see a failing injector I can swap or go back to my old ones.

[Howie]

Try starting the bike with a jump from a car battery.  Open cell voltage is a sign of battery state of charge, not health.  I suspect the computer might be shutting down due to voltage drop.  Yes, different bike, my DS 1000 would not start on a battery that would pass a load test for that reason.  New battery?  Fixed.

[stopintime]

Try starting the bike with a jump from a car battery.  Open cell voltage is a sign of battery state of charge, not health.  I suspect the computer might be shutting down due to voltage drop.  Yes, different bike, my DS 1000 would not start on a battery that would pass a load test for that reason.  New battery?  Fixed.

Ok