Keeping my S2R 800 going and healthy. Winter small things, again ...

[koko64]

I didnt realise you are running carbon wheels. I guess that means cutting a slot and using an impact driver to remove the bolts isn't an option. It's probably a risk of cracking a wheel?

[stopintime]

I've done something similar (since extractors didn't catch) - drill so heads fall off, then smaller drill bit and hammer in a torx bit. Almost smooth...

[ducpainter]

I'd run 'em 

[koko64]

That bike must be light. Which type of fresh pads for the new discs?

[stopintime]

I'd run 'em 

You can   

They really do change the bike. For the reduced price and worthless dollar back during the US economical trouble around 2010(?) it was worth it. Inspired by Statler and offered by Martin at Motowheels.

That bike must be light. Which type of fresh pads for the new discs?

It is    The rider not so light...  I go fast regardless  

One of the clear advantages with full floating discs is that since they move around, the pads never "land" in the same spot and will keep the surfaces very smooth. They don't make the typical grooves/tracks/lines. This means that used pads are good to go on new discs. Mine were worn well. I had a set of the now discontinued hot Brembo 07BB1996 left and put those on today. Always nice to experience and evaluate one mod at a time. Known pads on new to me "budget" Oro Series semi floating discs. Some running in and tests tomorrow.

[ducpainter]

FWIW...I like DP pads.

[stopintime]

So, oval big pivot hole on my old clutch CRG lever. Issues being floppiness and not enough plunger rod depth adjustment - making neutral harder to find.
CRG big pivot levers are hard to find, so I picked something else at SportBikeTrackGear.com who had CRG brake lever in stock (for radial Brembo).

[koko64]

Looks solid quality.

[koko64]

FWIW...I like DP pads.

I've used their endurance racing pads on the track.

[stopintime]

Nice bike supports. I don't have a roof and I feel these are sturdier. Almost new axle and all new CNC Racing flange going in. The steel axle should be replaced at 100,000-130,000 km and the aluminum stock or aftermarket flange at ~80,000km - at which point the wear is bad enough to pull the large left side nut loose - little by little. Normal TLC for the involved parts while in there. Bearings feel fine.


Caliper removal to slide the axle (with disc) out to the right side


My lap is my work shop JT sprocket carrier are ok at roughly 80,000km. Cush drives ok. New CNC Racing flange.


There we are. Everything inspected, cleaned, lubricated and tight again. Will be checking to make sure I didn't miss anything.

[koko64]

Very nice. I like the footpeg stands too.