Monster 900 restoration

[buzzer]

Thought I would start a new thread...  It's been a very strange year...  I normally build something over winter, but this year I have been busy on my last build all spring and summer, and that is finished and at the back of the garage ready for spring.

So I have started a rebuild on a 1998 Monster 900, a bike I have always wanted to own.  I like the looks, and simplicity of them, and they handle great!  this will be a straight restoration and I will be keeping it looking the same save for it being red and probably gold frame and wheels.  I started the stripdown yeasterday...

[koko64]

 Same as my first Monster.

[Mhanis]

Beejesus that rear fender/license plate holder is HUGE!!!!

I have nothing useful to add.

Mark

[Duck-Stew]

If you’re going to paint it, be sure to put the tank ON the frame before trying to place the ‘DUCATI MONSTER’ decal.  They’re tricky to get horizontal otherwise.). The top of the fuel cap is horizontal for reference but still, I always had my painter pause his process so we could install and get it right.

[greenmonster]

Cylinder heads marked W or V2?

[booger]

Cylinder heads marked W or V2?

which is preferable and why?

[Howie]

big valve little valve.

[Frank C]

Just to be clear....
The V2 heads have larger valves.
The W heads have smaller valves and cams similar to the M750.

[koko64]

Edit. Had to enlarge the pic to see the blue damping adjusters and darker fork lowers. Looks like a 96-97 model with Marzocchi forks introduced sometime in 96 which may have seen the intro of W heads. It's a line ball.

I remember looking at a bike to buy at a shop and even taking the cam cap off to check the cam code while on the phone to Bikeboy. The W heads did indeed have 750 cams.

[buzzer]

If you’re going to paint it, be sure to put the tank ON the frame before trying to place the ‘DUCATI MONSTER’ decal.  They’re tricky to get horizontal otherwise.). The top of the fuel cap is horizontal for reference but still, I always had my painter pause his process so we could install and get it right.

thanks, that's good advice

Oh, they are V2 heads    I didn't know about that...

The stripdown continues… so far just one slight hitch… a broken bolt in the swinging arm… soon drilled and tapped out though...  I bought a set of cobalt drills last year, they are brilliant for this sort of thing.  wish I had bought them years ago!

[monsta]

That bike stand built flush on the floor is awesome! 

[buzzer]

That bike stand built flush on the floor is awesome! 

its actually a car host...  but i have modified it so each platform works independently...  its a great bit of kit!



Tried to remove the cush rubbers today as I am going to have the wheels powder coated...  the rubbers were good, so I didn't want to destroy them.  You can't knock them out as the drift just bounces off the rubber, and there is no way to get to the outer sleeve...  So I made this puller, that has a split threaded cotter.  its a bit fiddly, but they came out a treat, and I can re use them now

[buzzer]

Just preparing the frame and parts to take to the powder coaters... On the grab handle there were two small dents that I just know that if I left them they would bug me forever, so I TIG brazed them up and filed them down. there is something really satisfying about TIG brazing!

[buzzer]

Looks like the engine has never been worked on, apart from someone has removed the alternator cover and put it back on with what could best be described as glue! normally they come off with a tap, but in this case I had to resort to a puller…

Question to you guys... the engine looks to be very good...  zero bore wear...  Is there anything I should be replacing while I am in there?  did they have weak head studs at 1998?

[greenmonster]

Bright shiny studs-early bad ones, black-good.

Paper seal was originally used on a cover, when they
discontinued them bond was used.

Engine: Any sign of oil leak behind belt double wheel?
I’d check starter sprag and what it grips on. Do observe
shims behind when you reassemble flywheel!
Clutch basket and pack usually worn. Slave leaking?
Did oil warning light work? Easily replaced.
If  neutral light don’t work, replace cable, nothing wrong w engine.
Valve clearances ok? If not, worn cams?
Carbs, often needle jets are worn, replace.

Nothing major happends w these engines, pretty bullet proof,
only the dreaded crank alu screw backing out after many miles.
Can be checked w barrels off. Alu shavings in oil is a sign of this happening.
Do check  http://www.bikeboy.org/888part4.html