Monster 900 restoration

[buzzer]

Bright shiny studs-early bad ones, black-good.

Paper seal was originally used on a cover, when they
discontinued them bond was used.

Engine: Any sign of oil leak behind belt double wheel?
I’d check starter sprag and what it grips on. Do observe
shims behind when you reassemble flywheel!
Clutch basket and pack usually worn. Slave leaking?
Did oil warning light work? Easily replaced.
If  neutral light don’t work, replace cable, nothing wrong w engine.
Valve clearances ok? If not, worn cams?
Carbs, often needle jets are worn, replace.

Nothing major happends w these engines, pretty bullet proof,
only the dreaded crank alu screw backing out after many miles.
Can be checked w barrels off. Alu shavings in oil is a sign of this happening.
Do check  http://www.bikeboy.org/888part4.html

Thanks for that...  I didn't know about the plug coming loose....   been and checked it and although it was not loose, it came undone VERY easily !

My only fear on using three bond was the crank and gearbox shimming...

[koko64]

Black studs are the later version, good studs.

The stock carbs and stock compression will be underwhelming, but they plod along nicely. The carb heating kit is essential in winter, as is a cooler cover. FCR39s will wake the motor up nicely with the benefit of no carb freezing and no icing of the long manifolds. The CV carbs even hold back my 750, they can be modified however.

Compression increases will bring you back to Ignitech.

[greenmonster]

.   been and checked it and although it was not loose, it came undone VERY easily 

Sorry, that mean it has started to back out = time to split engine....
The plug should be Loctited and tapped w a mallet to prevent movement.

[buzzer]

the engine is all apart, and I am pleased with its condition...  no bore wear, and everything look good.  the main reason to take it apart is to bead blast the cases...  which of course means a complete strip.  I am glad I did it anyway as people have pointed out the crank plugs come loose which damages the cases.  While this one was not loose, it was not tight either can came out with a gentle twist of the screw driver...  disaster waiting to happen!  its locktited in place now...




I hate bashing bearings out,and where possible try to make a puller of some sort… in the case of the swinging arm bearings it’s easy, just a stepped bush (it does destroy the inner seal..) and out they come. the step needs to clear the circlip though… some of the engine bearings are more difficult as you can’t get to the back… for this I made an expandable stepped puller, that expands into the bearing as a bolt rides up an internal taper. with this they come out easy…





To get the bearings out I also heat the cases… I would like to use the oven as its a more even heat… but I can’t for two reasons.. the first is the cases are too big… and secondly she gets upset, particularly as its a new oven! So over the halogen heater it is… keeping an eye on the temperature… I also like to mark EVERYTHING, so it can go back where it came from, and in the same position. I am not keen on centre pops, instead I use a little diamond burr in the dremel… this will even mark bearings and means you can number stuff as well, and it does not cause stress raisers…



Of course parting the cases means the primary gear has to come off… and they are VERY tight… you can forget anything but a really robust puller. here is one I mad a few years ago. with this it came off easily.



The frame and wheels have gone to the powder coaters...

[greenmonster]

Fast working man!
Only original mufflers w the bike?

[buzzer]

Fast working man!
Only original mufflers w the bike?

too fast...  I have to slow down a bit...  or I wont have anything to do over winter! 

Yes, the bike came with standard silencers...  there are a couple of minor scuffs on them but I am debating making some like I made for the last build...  not decided yet...  I will of course keep the originals...

[buzzer]

Has anyone ever run an early monster without the vacuum fuel pump?  Do you lose much tank capacity?

[buzzer]

here are the carbs, they are in remarkably good condition! I had some genuine new floats and needles so I used those in the build. I did bead blast the outsides, taking care to use silicone bungs in all the holes… they came out a treat!

[Frank C]

Pretty sure you will lean out part way through a tank of gas without a pump.
After multiple rebuilds of my vacuum pump, I replaced it with an electric one.
An Airtex E8016S can do 30gph at 4.5psi.  Great for FCR's.  Not sure if it would work with stock carbs.  Assuming someone here would know better than me on what the stock carb needs. 
 

[Howie]

Besides not being able to use the whole tank as the tank empties you could run lean when cornering.  An electric pump will solve that.

[greenmonster]

Your homemade will look fine, these are SilMoto.
Combined w a Dynojet stage 2 (you want the lighter
vacuum throttle springs) and open airbox
(only front between snorkels, thats enough and
not too noisy), this will liven bike up.

[buzzer]

Thanks!  still debating on the silencers...  plenty of time...

while the engine and frame are away I have turned my attention to overhauling the front forks… they were not leaking but I thought I would treat them to some new seals and dust covers…. looks like someone has recently changed just one side by the state of the oil...

[buzzer]

the engine cases are back from the vapour blasters… what a superb job! attention to detail is what its all about and they came back prefect… I will definitly use this guy again… the finish is as good as I have ever seen… https://spvapourblasting.co.uk/ I know these cases are painted from original but the pain always flakes off, so I have decided to leave them bear, and use ACF 50 on them to keep them looking nice… this will probably be a low miles, fair weather bike for me…

the engine build begins… I got the cases nice and hot and pressed the bearings in, and then checked the crank and gearbox shafts end float as I wont be using a gasket as Ducati have now discontinued them and use Threebond in place … I had already ordered a few shims by measuring the old gasket (14 thou) and taking that off the shims that are in there… when the shims come in a few days I will build it properly…

[buzzer]

todays job has been cleaning out the oilways in the barrels after being vapour blasted...  To do this properly and get every last bead of media out I removed and replaced the core plugs...  they are cheap to buy.  There was a surprising amount of crud behind them... Made a couple of stepped punches so I could drift them in nice and square. 

Checked the bores for wear, there simply isn't any!  Ground the valves in with some fine paste (how old is that tin of grinding paste 😅) and checked I had a continuous seal with a sharpie pen.  Gave the guides a quick clean with the burnishing hone which just removes carbon, 

Finally, a good wash in petrol the tray and a check in the bottom for any blasting media.  My mate who builds automatic gearboxes gave me the tip on the stainless steel trays... you really can see any debris in the bottom!

[greenmonster]

Behind belts drive wheel, after fitting seal, give the seating
a punch to prevent seal from rotating and leaking.
Shims behind flywheel often slids outta place, be thorough.
And do not forget Oring under cyl barrels...