Marks (now solo) M1100 (mis) adventures!

[Mhanis]

Question:  Referencing the 2V air cooled motors in general... the standard service interval is 7500mi, do the valves really go out of tolerance that much in 7500mi?

I have been told in the past that the 1st valve check is the most important; after that things seem to calm down and as the miles click off, future valve adjustments require less adjusting.

Mark

[Mhanis]

Well boys, I have run into my first head-scratcher; I cannot get the swingarm shaft to even act like it wants to budge! I have removed the footrests, removed the wedge shaped bolt on the right side and the snap ring, also on the right side.

This is what the right and left sides look like now:

20230126_193632 by Mark Hanis, on Flickr

20230126_193552 by Mark Hanis, on Flickr

I am trying to drive the shaft from the right (clutch) side through to the left (chain) side. When I strike the shaft with a rubber mallet I get a HARD stop, it is like it has NO interest in moving.

Do I need to get something more solid and give it a go?

Oh, the engine should be ready for pickup this weekend!

Mark

[ducpainter]

I'd use a regular hammer with a block of wood, or ideally a large diameter brass drift to break it free. A rubber mallet won't impart enough shock.

[Mhanis]

That was my thinking but I wanted a second opinion before I leaned into it a bit!

Will I need to continue to drive the shaft through the swingarm/engine case, or once I get it pushed out the left side a little will it simply pull out from that side?

Another way of asking that; what size punch do you think I'll need? I can order one from work and I don't want to pay for a set as I can buy individual ones, I just need to know what size.

Mark

[koko64]

Workshop has a selection of timber off cuts. Special tools.

[ducpainter]

That was my thinking but I wanted a second opinion before I leaned into it a bit!

Will I need to continue to drive the shaft through the swingarm/engine case, or once I get it pushed out the left side a little will it simply pull out from that side?

Another way of asking that; what size punch do you think I'll need? I can order one from work and I don't want to pay for a set as I can buy individual ones, I just need to know what size.

Mark

You may need to. Hard tellin'. I've heard tales of very rusty swing arm pivot shafts. I hear my SBK had one that was difficult to remove. I also hear pressure washing will drive water past the seals and contribute to rust.

Measure the end of the shaft and order a length of brass bar 1/8" smaller, and long enough to go all the way through.

[Mhanis]

I also hear pressure washing will drive water past the seals and contribute to rust.

I'm not a damn animal!!   

But I do have a LOT of time spent riding in the rain. And HARD rain at times.

So, I am getting no movement at all using a hammer and a block of wood (what I have available). It seems that a brass punch as big as I need it is not going to be readily available. What are your thoughts on getting a brass hammer, setting that against the shaft and striking the brass hammer with another hammer?

Additionally, is it OK to hit the area with some liquid wrench and let it sit up?

Mark

[ducpainter]

I'm not a damn animal!!   

But I do have a LOT of time spent riding in the rain. And HARD rain at times.

So, I am getting no movement at all using a hammer and a block of wood (what I have available). It seems that a brass punch as big as I need it is not going to be readily available. What are your thoughts on getting a brass hammer, setting that against the shaft and striking the brass hammer with another hammer?

Additionally, is it OK to hit the area with some liquid wrench and let it sit up?

Mark

Yes, and yes. It'll take whatever it takes.

The only downside to the brass hammer is if it needs to be driven after you break it loose.

Brass bar not available?... https://smile.amazon.com/Pieces-BRASS-SOLID-ROUND-Lathe/dp/B01F80WOZU/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3GARVCQCN81VX&keywords=3%2F4+brass+bar+stock&qid=1674873560&sprefix=3%2F4+brass+bar+%2Caps%2C113&sr=8-4

[Mhanis]

Thanks for the link, I am going to order a rod. I knew I could source what I needed; I was just hoping to find something that I needed OFF THE SHELF. I did manage to find a brass hammer, so, a bit of heat, some PB Blaster and the brass hammer has yielded movement! Not much, maybe 1/8".

The mechanic at the shop suggested moving the rod back and forth, as opposed to trying to keep pounding one direction. After he said that it seemed so obvious! Yet I would have done EXACTLY what he said not to do. But based on what I am feeling now, I think I'll have to get a piece of round bar to get it extracted.

I'll keep ya posted.

And the engine is in my garage and that feels really good!

Mark

[ducpainter]

Plan or replacing the bearings/seals.

[Mhanis]

Plan or replacing the bearings/seals.

That has been discussed.

So, major victory, minor setback:

First, the victory:

20230128_200641 by Mark Hanis, on Flickr

One I put a couple of heat cycles, PB Blaster and muscle it started to move pretty freely, so out it came!

Now the setback:

20230128_200657 by Mark Hanis, on Flickr

I tried (unsuccessfully) to remove the bottom bolt on the shock. I failed. I supported the engine from below and went back to the top bolt and was able to release it.

Now my problem is this bottom bolt; it is bound up pretty good! It doesn't want to move either way. I'd be happy enough just screwing it back in, but it is reluctant to go for some reason. Have I FUBAR'd?

Mark

[ducpainter]

Sometimes...shocking with either an impact wrench, or hammer driver can create progress.

[Mhanis]

I am hesitant to use an impact driver going IN, but if the bolt is not out then it is still captured in the threads so I don’t have to worry about cross-threading, right?

Mark

[koko64]

That recessed section around the bolt should hold some anti seize liquid. Worth filling it with the swingarm on its side overnight. Nothing to lose. An impact driver should work and will damage the Allen head so you would replace the bolt, but a rattle gun will chew it out much worse.

[ducpainter]

I am hesitant to use an impact driver going IN, but if the bolt is not out then it is still captured in the threads so I don’t have to worry about cross-threading, right?

Mark

You're trying to break a mechanical bond. No harm in going both directions.