All you M696 owners, has anyone come up with a good solution for the crazy rear brake noise you get when coming to a stop? Dealer makes adjustments but noise comes back after a few miles. I've read about swapping the pads, applying copper paste but all with varying results. Anyone have this solved once and for all?
What sort of noise are you referring to?
Squeaks, squeals, grunts, groans, moaning, panting?
If it's a squeak/squeal, most ducati's do it, I replaced the rear pads with some Ferodo Platinum pads and that made it much better, but they still do it from time to time.
I don't worry about it anymore, I know a number of motorbike brakes let out the odd squeak or squeal.
yeah mine does it but so did my 99 monster as well.
not worried.
My 99 Monster squeals, or groans, or makes a scraping noise etc. Good pads, good disc, just noisy ~
JM
Its the sort of noise that makes dogs and cats run alway in pain. It can be VERY loud. Like metal nails on a metal chalkboard.
normal sounds
Solving brake squeal can be tough. I would live with light or occasional squeal, but if it is as obnoxious as you say... I have no idea what adjustments your dealer did on the brake, but other than lever height and free play, there aren't any. You can try sanding the pads and putting a bevel on the leading edge to aid in bedding. Copper paste, home made shims, etc may help by changing the frequency but it is a crapshoot. My guess is your pads were overheated during break in, particularly since the noise comes back after a few miles. Rear pads are not expensive, and since the bike is pretty new, you may get some help from the dealer. I would not use OEM pads. They are prone to noise, wear fast, and are hard on the rotor. I use EBC HH. Softer (organic) pads tend to squeal less, but wear faster.
There's a rear brake?
Mine makes no noticeable sound.
My 696's rear brake makes a resonating humming noise that gets louder the longer I keep on it. My solution thus far has been to let up on it once it starts.... :-\
Quote from: zLoki on September 22, 2008, 01:43:41 AM
All you M696 owners, has anyone come up with a good solution for the crazy rear brake noise you get when coming to a stop? Dealer makes adjustments but noise comes back after a few miles. I've read about swapping the pads, applying copper paste but all with varying results. Anyone have this solved once and for all?
My monster 696 is only tweo weaks old and noise you mentioned is happening to my bike as well. Have you tried the following?
To cure it, take it up to 90-100 mph and apply heavy, rear wheel only braking down to 20 mph. Repeat a few times in a row if necessary. It helps avoid locking up the tire if you shift your weight towards the rear. If your pads are severely glazed you will really have to stand on the brake to get enough friction for this to work. The heat will cause the pads to out-gas and the friction will expose new friction material. Be careful with this procedure because as it starts to work, your rear brake will become more effective and you could inadvertantly lock up the rear tire. To avoid this, focus your attention on how fast you are slowing down instead of how hard you are pushing on the brake lever.
I found this on another forum right now but I haven't tried it myself.
The rear brake will not make noise...
if you don't use it...
as always...
YMMV
My 696 started out with a tiny squeal, and over the first 700 miles grew to a squeal so loud that it crystal wine goblets in nearby houses shatter. Ok, actually, what they sound like are the Race Pads on my car when they are cold. The noise is worst at low speeds, as in coming to a stop at an intersection.
I don't mind a little noise. I'd rather have noise and have them work, instead of no noise and no stopping power. However, in this case the noise is so loud that all cars within the intersection turn their heads looking for the source of the evil, painful screeching. It makes me not want to ever use my rear brakes.
No entiendo. Rear brake? Is that like a front brake but located somewhere else on the bike?? I'm a newbie. Please explain. ;D
Seriously, if it's really bugging you, pull out the pads and sand them down. Or just replace 'em entirely. And then get a scotchbrite pad and clean off the rear rotor. Then do a coupla stops from speed to get some new pad material onto the rear rotor. Do not come to a complete stop. Let it cool off and repeat.
Better idea? Don't use your rear brake unless you go off-road and into dirt.
Quote from: Mentors696 on November 09, 2008, 06:15:05 PM
My monster 696 is only tweo weaks old and noise you mentioned is happening to my bike as well. Have you tried the following?
To cure it, take it up to 90-100 mph and apply heavy, rear wheel only braking down to 20 mph. Repeat a few times in a row if necessary. It helps avoid locking up the tire if you shift your weight towards the rear. If your pads are severely glazed you will really have to stand on the brake to get enough friction for this to work. The heat will cause the pads to out-gas and the friction will expose new friction material. Be careful with this procedure because as it starts to work, your rear brake will become more effective and you could inadvertantly lock up the rear tire. To avoid this, focus your attention on how fast you are slowing down instead of how hard you are pushing on the brake lever.
I found this on another forum right now but I haven't tried it myself.
Even if it works, this doesn't sound like a great idea. Why not just sand down the pads? There is a bunch less speed involved, and it only takes a coupla minutes.
Quote from: Mentors696 on November 09, 2008, 06:15:05 PM
My monster 696 is only tweo weaks old and noise you mentioned is happening to my bike as well. Have you tried the following?
To cure it, take it up to 90-100 mph and apply heavy, rear wheel only braking down to 20 mph. Repeat a few times in a row if necessary. It helps avoid locking up the tire if you shift your weight towards the rear. If your pads are severely glazed you will really have to stand on the brake to get enough friction for this to work. The heat will cause the pads to out-gas and the friction will expose new friction material. Be careful with this procedure because as it starts to work, your rear brake will become more effective and you could inadvertantly lock up the rear tire. To avoid this, focus your attention on how fast you are slowing down instead of how hard you are pushing on the brake lever.
I found this on another forum right now but I haven't tried it myself.
Would it be safer to do this on a rear stand, or is there a risk of launching myself into the garage door? This seems like a recipe for disaster.
Quote from: Takster on November 09, 2008, 10:10:00 PM
Would it be safer to do this on a rear stand, or is there a risk of launching myself into the garage door? This seems like a recipe for disaster.
Listen to Spidey, one little clip and one pin you have them out. Then bed by Spidey's instructions. While you are sanding, put a little bevel on the leading edge, a bevel top and bottom will help also. If that doesn't work, then new pads. Do remember to pump the pedal after you put the pads back in.
Thanks for all the suggestings. The simplist things worked - at least a bit. After a couple of unexpected hard stops/rear lock ups, the noise is almost gone. I've got 3k on the bike now, guess the brakes just needed to be used.
[moto]
Brake squeal is a safety feature in disguise.
Discuss.
MSF teaches that you should use the front AND rear brake all the time together. soooo if you get brake squeal from lack of use... you fail MSF 101 I guess.
bump: for a new 696 rider
Quote from: Raux on November 21, 2008, 12:03:37 AM
MSF teaches that you should use the front AND rear brake all the time together. soooo if you get brake squeal from lack of use... you fail MSF 101 I guess.
MSF also teaches primarily on cruisers. The weight distribution is very different on sportbikes.
Point was that when using, it scares small children a mile away.
But it did eventually go away... after 2k miles or so. Now it's just a regular break squeak that comes and goes from time to time, I can live with that. now back to [drink] and [beer], [wine]
Anyone figured out a solution for the noisy rear brakes on the 696. I have a 2009 that is only a week only and is making a loud noise... [bang]
Quote from: LittleItalianBoy on April 27, 2009, 04:39:19 PM
Anyone figured out a solution for the noisy rear brakes on the 696. I have a 2009 that is only a week only and is making a loud noise... [bang]
Answered your own question (er... statement?). ;)
Quote from: LittleItalianBoy on April 27, 2009, 04:39:19 PM
Anyone figured out a solution for the noisy rear brakes on the 696. I have a 2009 that is only a week only and is making a loud noise... [bang]
Ride it. Brakes occasionally squeal.
And get after market pipes, no one will hear them.
Just to add my 2 cents on my experience w/ the rear brake.
I got my 696 w/ 270 miles on ODO. Yes the rear is noisy. I tried removing the pads and de-glazed it w/ sand paper, no help. I tried some anti-squeal compound on the back of the pads and that help somewhat, but not removing the noise completely. It just quite it down a few dBs.
I finally took the sand paper / small sanding block and went across the rotors in hash pattern. Kept doing that for maybe 15 min on each side of the rear rotor. And that was it, noise is completely gone.
This and setting chain slack to the loosest (48mm) spec--which has no relation to this brake squeal topic--really helps lessen the unwanted 'noise' coming out of the 696. I couldn't be happier on my 696 now... Well, maybe I could with a few more choice mods. [laugh]
I had the same exact problem. A little hard braking and regular use took care of it. I'm too lazy to remove the pads and sand 'em. Just use 'em.