M696: Rear Break Noise

[zLoki]

All you M696 owners, has anyone come up with a good solution for the crazy rear brake noise you get when coming to a stop?  Dealer makes adjustments but noise comes back after a few miles.  I've read about swapping the pads, applying copper paste but all with varying results.  Anyone have this solved once and for all?

[CairnsDuc]

What sort of noise are you referring to?

Squeaks, squeals, grunts, groans, moaning, panting?

If it's a squeak/squeal, most ducati's do it, I replaced the rear pads with some Ferodo Platinum pads and that made it much better, but they still do it from time to time.
I don't worry about it anymore, I know a number of motorbike brakes let out the odd squeak or squeal.

[Raux]

yeah mine does it but so did my 99 monster as well.
not worried.

[the_Journeyman]

My 99 Monster squeals, or groans, or makes a scraping noise etc.  Good pads, good disc, just noisy ~

JM

[zLoki]

Its the sort of noise that makes dogs and cats run alway in pain.  It can be VERY loud.  Like metal nails on a metal chalkboard.

[Raux]

normal sounds

[Howie]

Solving brake squeal can be tough.  I would live with light or occasional squeal,  but if it is as obnoxious as you say...  I have no idea what adjustments your dealer did on the brake, but other than lever height and free play, there aren't any.  You can try sanding the pads and putting a bevel on the leading edge to aid in bedding.  Copper paste, home made shims, etc may help by changing the frequency but it is a crapshoot.  My guess is your pads were overheated during break in, particularly since the noise comes back after a few miles.  Rear pads are not expensive, and since the bike is pretty new, you may get some help from the dealer.  I would not use OEM pads.  They are prone to noise, wear fast, and are hard on the rotor.  I use EBC HH.  Softer (organic) pads tend to squeal less, but wear faster.

[zedsaid]

There's a rear brake?


Mine makes no noticeable sound.

[ducturd]

My 696's rear brake makes a resonating humming noise that gets louder the longer I keep on it. My solution thus far has been to let up on it once it starts.... 

[Mentors696]

All you M696 owners, has anyone come up with a good solution for the crazy rear brake noise you get when coming to a stop?  Dealer makes adjustments but noise comes back after a few miles.  I've read about swapping the pads, applying copper paste but all with varying results.  Anyone have this solved once and for all?

My monster 696 is only tweo weaks old and noise you mentioned is happening to my bike as well.  Have you tried the following?
To cure it, take it up to 90-100 mph and apply heavy, rear wheel only braking down to 20 mph. Repeat a few times in a row if necessary. It helps avoid locking up the tire if you shift your weight towards the rear. If your pads are severely glazed you will really have to stand on the brake to get enough friction for this to work. The heat will cause the pads to out-gas and the friction will expose new friction material. Be careful with this procedure because as it starts to work, your rear brake will become more effective and you could inadvertantly lock up the rear tire. To avoid this, focus your attention on how fast you are slowing down instead of how hard you are pushing on the brake lever.

I found this on another forum right now but I haven't tried it myself. 

[ducpainter]

The rear brake will not make noise...

if you don't use it...

as always...

YMMV

[Louv]

My 696 started out with a tiny squeal, and over the first 700 miles grew to a squeal so loud that it crystal wine goblets in nearby houses shatter.  Ok, actually, what they sound like are the Race Pads on my car when they are cold.  The noise is worst at low speeds, as in coming to a stop at an intersection.

I don't mind a little noise.  I'd rather have noise and have them work, instead of no noise and no stopping power.  However, in this case the noise is so loud that all cars within the intersection turn their heads looking for the source of the evil, painful screeching.  It makes me not want to ever use my rear brakes.

[Spidey]

No entiendo.  Rear brake?  Is that like a front brake but located somewhere else on the bike??  I'm a newbie.  Please explain.   





Seriously, if it's really bugging you, pull out the pads and sand them down.  Or just replace 'em entirely.  And then get a scotchbrite pad and clean off the rear rotor.  Then do a coupla stops from speed to get some new pad material onto the rear rotor.  Do not come to a complete stop.  Let it cool off and repeat.   

Better idea?  Don't use your rear brake unless you go off-road and into dirt.

[Spidey]

My monster 696 is only tweo weaks old and noise you mentioned is happening to my bike as well.  Have you tried the following?
To cure it, take it up to 90-100 mph and apply heavy, rear wheel only braking down to 20 mph. Repeat a few times in a row if necessary. It helps avoid locking up the tire if you shift your weight towards the rear. If your pads are severely glazed you will really have to stand on the brake to get enough friction for this to work. The heat will cause the pads to out-gas and the friction will expose new friction material. Be careful with this procedure because as it starts to work, your rear brake will become more effective and you could inadvertantly lock up the rear tire. To avoid this, focus your attention on how fast you are slowing down instead of how hard you are pushing on the brake lever.

I found this on another forum right now but I haven't tried it myself. 

Even if it works, this doesn't sound like a great idea.  Why not just sand down the pads?  There is a bunch less speed involved, and it only takes a coupla minutes.

[Takster]

My monster 696 is only tweo weaks old and noise you mentioned is happening to my bike as well.  Have you tried the following?
To cure it, take it up to 90-100 mph and apply heavy, rear wheel only braking down to 20 mph. Repeat a few times in a row if necessary. It helps avoid locking up the tire if you shift your weight towards the rear. If your pads are severely glazed you will really have to stand on the brake to get enough friction for this to work. The heat will cause the pads to out-gas and the friction will expose new friction material. Be careful with this procedure because as it starts to work, your rear brake will become more effective and you could inadvertantly lock up the rear tire. To avoid this, focus your attention on how fast you are slowing down instead of how hard you are pushing on the brake lever.

I found this on another forum right now but I haven't tried it myself. 

Would it be safer to do this on a rear stand, or is there a risk of launching myself into the garage door?  This seems like a recipe for disaster.