I have a 14t front sprocket I want to put on my 696, but I need some help. The clutch slave cylinder is in the way of getting the chain off. Am I able to remove the slave cylinder to get the chain/sprocket off or am I going to have to break the chain?
I read that the older monsters, you can remove the slave cylinder, but is it the same for the 696? Is there anything tricky to unbolting and removing the slave cylinder? What about torque specs for reinstalling it?
Any help REALLY appreciated. Thanks!
just unbolt it. nothing tricky. the only thing that will happen is the piston will extend within the bore, but it is not a big deal, it won't come out. when you put it back the clutch rod will push it back into position.
I couldn't get it off even with the cylinder slid out. The rearsets kept the chain from coming out further after that (and those bolt all the way through the bike and the engine). I had to brake the chain. But now I'm in another predicament.
I broke the chain and got a D.I.D. master link (520 VM) which I was told would work. Was told, "as long as it's 520, it'll work." BUT... when installing it, it took more effort than it should have to push the master link pins into the chain. Once it was installed, the link was not able to pivot. Looking at the chain, there is 520V6 marked on each plate, while the master link I have is 520VM. Do I need to get a 520V6 master link? I saw a video on YouTube of a Ducati tech installing a new chain, and when he put the master link in it slid right into place. This did not happen with me.
Also, i didn't know there was a master link in the chain already (sketch it up to me being a moto-n00b), so I randomly removed a "normal" link. Was this bad?
I'm a little peeved now because I'll have to wait until Monday to do anything about it since all the shops and dealers are closed on Sunday...
I'm in the Dallas area and have a chain press and a spare master link for a 520 chain. . Send me a PM if you want some help. [thumbsup]
BTW, IIRC Cyclegear is open on Sundays.
Edit, I think I have an EK master
Thanks for the offer. I'm 4 hours away though... in San Antonio. I have the tool myself, I just have to wait to get a link :(
Is your link the 520V6? Did you have to get it from a Duc dealer or have it special ordered or anything? I'm assuming I can go to my dealer on Monday and pick one up, right? Nothing out of the ordinary?
I'll drop by Cycle Gear and see if they have a link. Moto Liberty is where I got the 520VM link. The owner is a cool guy and very helpful. Rides Ducs himself. I guess he just didn't know there would be a difference in links as long as it was 520.
My chain supplier made it clear that mixing master links across brands was not a good plan.
I would think that as long as it was a DID master going on to a DID chain, it should be alright.
Perhaps a DID website might be of some help...
Thanks for that info Speeddog [thumbsup]
I was under the assumption that it's a DiD chain the DiD master was going on.
Anyone know what chain comes on the 696? If it's the stock 696 chain, do I need to go to the dealer for a master link?
Searching for info on the 696 is a pain in the butt... I rarely find any technical info on it. But I can find plenty on older monsters.
Hrmm... now I'm concerned. If I forced the wrong link into the chain... could I have screwed up the chain or weakened the links connected to the master link?
Yes, as you have found out the diameter of the rods on the master links are not the same for all chains. I think if you can get it back out you will be fine you will have 2 master links install buuut, the way I have always looked at something like that is if one master link is fine than another one in a different part of the chain will not hurt anything. I mean they are either strong enough or they are not so 1 vs. 2 really cant make a difference.
Ah well... live and learn, eh?
I had to use the chain tool to press the pins out, but I was able to remove the master link.
Still searching trying to find the manufacturer of the OEM chain. Even then, Cycle Gear may not have the proper master link.
I haven't ridden my bike all day... I'm almost tempted to just go buy a new chain in the morning so I can ride tomorrow! [roll] ;D
Umm... just noticed... (feel like a moron... again... I'm on a roll today) the stock chain is manufactured by D.I.D. It's stamped on the plates.
So now the only difference is the chain's plates are stamped with 520V6, while the master link is stamped 520VM. I couldn't find any chain called 520V6 on the DID website. Found the 520V and 520VM, but no 520V6.
The 520V is O-ring, while the 520VM is X-ring. I'm going to see if Cycle Gear has the 520V and maybe that will work...
Just because both the cahin and your new master are DID does not mean they have the same pin diameter, and as you've already flared connecting links on both sides, putting the correct master in will leave you with one 'looser' than the others link. Maybe nothing will come of this but a little accelerated wear, but I personally would be very cautious. you've compromised your chain. Have you ever seen what happens when a chain breaks at pace? Sufficed to say, the repairs generally exceed the $120 price tag of a shiny new X-ring chain. You may want to consider biting the bullet and just getting a new chain. and as you've put on a different size sprocket, you can take the opportunity to adjust the chain length accordingly.
IMHO
Quote from: Smokescreen on March 07, 2009, 11:03:08 PM
Just because both the cahin and your new master are DID does not mean they have the same pin diameter, and as you've already flared connecting links on both sides, putting the correct master in will leave you with one 'looser' than the others link. Maybe nothing will come of this but a little accelerated wear, but I personally would be very cautious. you've compromised your chain. Have you ever seen what happens when a chain breaks at pace? Sufficed to say, the repairs generally exceed the $120 price tag of a shiny new X-ring chain. You may want to consider biting the bullet and just getting a new chain. and as you've put on a different size sprocket, you can take the opportunity to adjust the chain length accordingly.
IMHO
That is what I was thinking, but didn't want to jump the gun without anyone offering that advice. I'll probably get a new chain for safety and a feeling of confidence that I'm not riding with a weakened chain that could lock up my rear while being followed by an 18 wheeler...
Makes me wish I would have gotten a larger rear sprocket and new chain to begin with instead of the 14t...
i know it is too late, but it would have been much easier to pull the rearset off. three bolts and the shift linkage... assuming it is mounted similar to the S*Rs
Quote from: aaronb on March 07, 2009, 11:59:01 PM
i know it is too late, but it would have been much easier to pull the rearset off. three bolts and the shift linkage... assuming it is mounted similar to the S*Rs
I was thinking that but I wasn't sure if the big bolt that goes through the rearsets, frame and engine would be easy to remove or not. But yeah... too late for that.
I think you created a problem you did not need by breaking the chain. If you move the rear wheel as far forward as it will go, drop the chain off the rear sprocket, remove the clutch slave, you can change the front sprocket without breaking the chain. I just did it myself last week. took about 20 minutes total. It is a little tight coming off and going on, but will, no problem. Also installed a case guard, but it looks like that would not fit with the 15t countershaft sprocket.
Quote from: JetTest on March 08, 2009, 10:53:36 AM
I think you created a problem you did not need by breaking the chain. If you move the rear wheel as far forward as it will go, drop the chain off the rear sprocket, remove the clutch slave, you can change the front sprocket without breaking the chain. I just did it myself last week. took about 20 minutes total. It is a little tight coming off and going on, but will, no problem. Also installed a case guard, but it looks like that would not fit with the 15t countershaft sprocket.
On a 696? I did the same thing, moved the wheel all the way up and slid the clutch cylinder out. Not enough room to remove the chain due to the rearset. I didn't want to mess with the rearset because I'm not sure how that giant bolt holds the rearsets, engine and swingarm. It may have been possible, but messing with the chain has given me some experience now. Even though I made mistakes, I learned more this way than if the chain had come off no problem.
I did end up buying a new chain though, just to stay on the side of caution. Got the RK 520 XSO.
Thanks for the help everyone. I'm off for a test ride with my new sprocket and chain.
Chain and front sprocket clear without any disassembly of the rearsets. Just the clutch slave, sprocket cover and rear wheel adjusters. You just have to split the slack in the chain between the top and the bottom, push it all forward and the sprocket will just have enough room to slide off the countershaft.
Quote from: JetTest on March 08, 2009, 04:21:45 PM
Chain and front sprocket clear without any disassembly of the rearsets. Just the clutch slave, sprocket cover and rear wheel adjusters. You just have to split the slack in the chain between the top and the bottom, push it all forward and the sprocket will just have enough room to slide off the countershaft.
I'm not saying you're wrong... I'm just saying I did exactly that and the rearsets were keeping the chain from letting the sprocket slide off. If I get bored I'll try it again someday just to see if I can get the sprocket off without removing the rearsets.
Oh, and I thought this was interesting too... when I ordered the sprocket from the dealer, I asked how much it would cost for them to install it. The salesman goes to the shop area and asks the mechanic how long it would take (not in front of me but I was barely within earshot) and the mechanic said he would have to break the chain. I don't know if he really HAD to, or if he was inexperienced with the 696, or maybe he was trying to extend the time required to get another hour of labor out of my checkbook (although he has gone out of his way to help me out before so I don't think that's the case).
Anyway, it's all done, everything is done, bike runs great now. The 14t is a HUGE improvement over stock. More torque down low, smoother off the line requiring less clutch, and always seems to be in the right gear. With the stock 15t, I always felt like I should be in-between 2nd and 3rd gear or between 5th and 6th gear. Highway riding is even improved because 6th gear is so much more usable.
Ost- glad you got it all together and back out on the road!!! Ride a lot!! And when you wear it out, just a thought... You might want to go back to the larger countershaft sprok, and go to a larger rear sprok. Smaller countershaft sproks tend to kill chains sooner. Although, I think I too have a smaller CS Sprok... hahhaaa
What I don't understand is why you (or rather people in general) want a 14T on a 696. You've already got 3 teeth more in the back compared to the 695.
Quote from: IdZer0 on March 09, 2009, 08:51:11 AM
What I don't understand is why you (or rather people in general) want a 14T on a 696. You've already got 3 teeth more in the back compared to the 695.
If you rode a 696 you'd understand.
Quote from: IdZer0 on March 09, 2009, 08:51:11 AM
What I don't understand is why you (or rather people in general) want a 14T on a 696. You've already got 3 teeth more in the back compared to the 695.
The comparison might not be a reasonable one. The 696 has a tranny geared m ore similarly to the S2R (maybe for emissions testing?) which is geared much taller than the 695. Sprockets aren't the only variable deciding RPMs at a given speed. The transmission has just as large an effect, though it's less of a variable, since it's pretty well not adjustable...
Still, for chain life and such, it's better to run to a larger alloy rear cog, than a smaller front one. The smaller front cog, and the chain both take more of a beating and wear out faster. The larger rear cog inversely take's less abuse because it requires less rotation of links, and wears better as does the chain.
Not helpful advise when you've already bought what you've bought, but this should be noted in future chain replacements
[drink]
Yes, in general you get better chain wear by going up on the rear, but I have found the additional wear from only 1 tooth down on the countershaft to be pretty insignificant.