Ducati Monster Forum

Sooooo . . . my rear shock - and I quothe - "Rear shock may be blown, leaking oil".

Anyone know of good source for a shock and/or install?

I just found an Ohlins DU046 for sale for $750 but have no idea how to know if a used shock is good . . .

Raggy RELP!  :'(

you can probably have your existing shock rebuilt for a lot less then the ohlins.  And keep in mind, no matter how much money you spend on extra's for your bike, the value wont go up nearly as much as the cost of the items.  Rebuilding your existing shock may be just the ticket.

You can talk to Dave Hodges at GP Suspension, or Barry Wressel at GP Suspension North (Seattle guy).

The stock shock can't be rebuilt - thanks for the suggestion though.

Actually, the Ohlins I'm looking at is expensive than the stock.

I don't know about Dave but Barry - although appearing to be very knowledgaebke and helpful - wasn't very responsive last year when I was working with him on possibly replacing my shock.  Said he had one off a 748 he'd give me for the price of the rebuild and install/set up.  Then after multiple phone calls and emails over 3 weeks without a response I gave up on him.

i'll give Dave a call.  Motostrano has the shock I'm looking at for ~ $100 less than MotoCorsa.  Maybe he can offer a better price.

Damn inconvenient time for this.  I'm gonna have to spend my trip funds - no vacation or me this year.  I'm really gonna be a cranky bear!

time for a new bike.  :)

I missed the "less" in the Ohlins shock is LESS expensive than the stock.

Anyone got experience replacing Steering Bearings?

I think Mother did that once. A long time ago. ???

I've done it on lots of bicycles, not hard.  You will have to take apart a good chunk of the front end.  It's nice if you have the special tool for removing the races from the frame but they can usually be removed with a screwdriver tapping all around the circumference.  install with a mallet or two large washers and a long bolt.  I have two plumbing flanges from installing a motor mount in the Volvo a few weeks ago, you can have them if they fit.  For the Monster you'll need that special tool to torque down the steering tube nut. 

Make sure to put some soft heavy towels over the tank, fender, and anything else you can scratch before you touch anything.  Get the bike well supported and secure before you start.  You'll need to rig something up, can't use a front end stand when you're removing the forks and steering tube.  You don't want to drop a bike with no front end and no frame below the engine.  Ick!  I'm happy to lend a hand if you want it.

Scott

yep

about 2 years ago

made a huge difference in the bikes handling

super easy

Anyone got any FHE with Hagon shocks?

 I can't seem to find a whole lot about them online.  [bang]

I got a giant slinky spring if you want to use it.    ;D

You have a bad memory.

But in your defense, a lot of beer was drank, jenga was won (or lost) and pizza was spilled that day.

The steering head bearings were easy

the rest of the day waas a pain in the ass, the main issue was the bearing removal

having to use the morilla influence

but

EDR came through for us though

Anyone got that tool thingy like doohickey to remove the triple whatchamacallit?

I gots me a lot of tools... as does Mo... what kinda thingy doohicky is it?

its called an allen key, loosen 3 of them and it slides right off

My shop manual indicates some special tool is required . . .  >:(

Allen key is all I need eh?  Those tricky tricksters!
 

there is to remove the stearing stem bearing retainer/adjuster thingy but you can either make one or use channel locks on a putty knife, or use mine.

I'm not touching your thingy thank you very much!  :P

I think I can manage the channel lock/putty self made tool.

Crap, that reminds me... I need to check the steering head bearings on the SS.  Some inspector who was feelin' up my bike as part of the ToR inspection thought they may be loose.

Feelin' up the SS?  Is that a euphemism for somethin'? ;D

Not really.  ;)  I remembered after I posted that, I think Amber was the one checking the bike that time.  It just kinda looked like she was feelin' up my beautiful Supersport.

Hey Chuck:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-DUCATI-MONSTER-REAR-SHOCK-EXCELLENT-M620_W0QQitemZ290302749999QQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-DUCATI-MONSTER-REAR-SHOCK-EXCELLENT-M620_W0QQitemZ290302749999QQcmdZViewItem)

Scott

Thanks.

I just SCORED an Ohlins DU 046 fully adjustable and rebuildable shock a few hours ago for an AMAZING frickin price!  [moto]

Now I just gotta get it here, installed, and the steering bearing replaced and I'll be a happy man once again.

Pretty sure this is gonna be too vague of a question but . . .

Would/will a steel rod the thickness of my pinky (3/8")hold up the front 1/2 of the bike while I remove the forks?

Also, is it possible to put the forks back on at the "wrong" length or different lengths and screw up the entire front end dynamics?

I've used a 36" screwdriver pry bar through the foreward motor mount in the past. If you like the current position of your triple clamp/forks I would mark everything so you can return it to the same.

What/where is this forward motor mount you speak of?

The big bolt on the side of the frame, where the frame sliders go.

Probably.  I know a 2 x 4 across two jack stands works just fine, tried it the other day.  Using re-bar?


And yes, absolutely.  To get things right measure from the bottom of the LOWER triple clamp down to the end of the large outer fork tube.  Set that back to where it was when you reassemble and you'll be where you were.  Shorten a few mm (sliding forks up in the clamps) and it will turn in quicker but be less stable at speed.

Scott

I have a spare front triple clamp stand (holds the bike from under the triple clamp) that you are welcome to using.  This is what I use to pull/adjust my forks on all my bikes.

I actually have two different kinds, one is the pin kind, the other is a clasp type (used for the 749/999 series).

Thanks.  I got it on a jack and Jack stands/metal bar with everything holding up pretty well.

Got another problem though.  I just stripped the head of a hex nut and can't get it out!  Holding the last fork on and holding up all other operations.

I'm trying JB Weld and the hex key to see if they'll hold together enough to get it out.

Anyone else got ideas?

Hey Mom . . . can I change my mind and borrow your thingy after all?  I used a metal T-square to get that danged thing out but it took FOREVAH and getting the torque setting right well . . .

So if'n I may I'd like to borrow the tool to put it back in.

Pretty please?  [bow_down]

Well . . . my bearings weren't flat.  But they weren't rolling either.

Hmmmm . . . brown stuff?
http://gallery.me.com/orducrider/100122/IMG_2285.jpg?derivative=medium&source=web.jpg&type=medium&ver=12383630440001 (http://gallery.me.com/orducrider/100122/IMG_2285.jpg?derivative=medium&source=web.jpg&type=medium&ver=12383630440001)

What kinda grease is that?
http://gallery.me.com/orducrider/100122/IMG_2287/web.jpg?ver=12383630580001 (http://gallery.me.com/orducrider/100122/IMG_2287/web.jpg?ver=12383630580001)

Rust?  Really?  Now what?
http://gallery.me.com/orducrider#100122/IMG_2288&bgcolor=black (http://gallery.me.com/orducrider#100122/IMG_2288&bgcolor=black)

Is it as simple as cleaning up the rust, greasing up the new parts, and reassembling?  Or are there other issues?

Ick!!  Well, those are supposed to be perfect sphere's so if they're pitted with rust they're not.  If it's light surface rust you might be able to get away with cleaning them all off, cleaning the races, re-grease, re-assemble.  If not, you're looking at new bearings and new bearing races.

I'd say clean it all up as best you can and inspect.  If it doesn't look too bad grease and re-assemble.  Torque it up and see how it feels.  If it feels loose anywhere, binds anywhere, isn't silky smooth when it moves, you need new parts.  Remember, this is what keeps the bike going where you point it a t mach speed so if there's any doubt, there is no doubt.  Get new parts if you have to.

If nothing else you've convinced me that it's worth taking mine apart for inspection and regreasing.  Good luck Chuck.

Scott

I got new - really super cool - Speedy Moto bearings.  It's the remaining metal being left behind I'm concerned about.

Is cleaning it and coating it with WD-40 gonna be OK to remove the surface rust and move on with life?

Hmmm.....

The official Ducati 620 manual says to never re-use the seals or bearings and always install new components.  While never reusing the bearings may be overkill maybe it applies in your case.  Glad you've got new bearing. 

Where is this surface rust you're worried about?  On the steering shaft?  In the bearing races?  If the races are pitted they may need replacemtn.  If it's just on the steering shaft rub it down with steel wool and coat it with axle grease to help prevent any further rust.

Scott

Yah on the shaft.

You make it sound so dirty when you explain it.  :P

Hey, you're the one with a rusty shaft and balls from neglect.

Yeah, Chuck. For the love of God, use some lube.

Hey chuck

What you are seeing is normal for stock Ducati bearings and grease exposed to our wonderful weather

I replaced mine with Duc bearings and torqued to enough pressure to flick the bars back and forth with a finger, making sure that there wasn't any slop when the bike is on a stand with the front end free

Not perfect but it worked for me

For the bearing tool, i just used a large C-clip plyer with a vice grip atatched

Which one of you wonderful people with a trailer would like some free food and drink?  ;)

I need to get my bike delivered tomorrow or Thursday because with the race weekend and all it's the only time I can in order to get my bike in for it's appointment.  Unless someone wants to take the morning 14th off . . .

Anyway.  If any of y'all are willing to help me trailer Lili let me know.  Free food and drink after - my treat!

Thanks for listening!

dont give in chuck

you can finish this project

I have faith in you

Hey Chuck, since you just took yours apart maybe you could answer a question.  I'm going to have the forks off to so I'd like to grease the head bearings while I'm there.  Although the manual says you should replace the bearings and seals every time you take them out, that seems excessive, at least for the bearings.  If they look good they go back in.  BUT, did you see anything on the seals that would indicate they are one time parts?  Do they tear coming out or anything?  Or do you think I could reassemble without problems?  I know you got your sexy new bearings, I'm cheap.  I'd rather just grease up what's there finances being what they are.  Also, any trouble re-assembling without the special tool for that 8 hole fastener on top?

Thanks, and glad to hear Lily is back on the road.

Scott

The top seal slips right off.  The bottom one is under the bottom bearings and that thing ain't moving without some extra effort.  Neither tore, shredded, or slipped during removal.

Where's it say to replace them every time you take them out?  I read and re-read the manual several times and didn't see that - different manuals perhaps?

My sexy new bearings were $60 bucks at Cheshire not cheap but maybe not too expensive for a cheap guy either  ;D

Ummmm . . . yah without knowing how you plan on putting it back on I'd say there were/are issues.  We found using "Jacob's Tool" that we were expanding the ring and binding yoke so we weren't able to tighten it down so easily.  It was much easier using 2 punches and a wrench for leverage.  I found if you put the round/circle end of the wrench over one punch and wedged the wrench down as low as possible it allowed for maximum leverage it was a slow process regardless.

That being said - DUDE you live like 3.475 miles from me.  Come and borrow the shmancy tool!  It works sooooo much better!  Oh, and you can actually use a torque wrench with the tool to get it on Goldilocks right!  [thumbsup]

You got my cell?  Call?  Or I'll check back in an hour or so . . . never mind I'll PM it to you.  Call me if you want to borrow it.

Ah!  Didn't know you had the schmancy tool.  I'd appreciate it if I could borrow it.  Thanks.  Funny, I was totally ready to spend $40 and shipping on the tool but $60 for bearings sounds pricey.   It doesn't have to make sense.

I'm guessing I'll be doing this next weekend, family in town this week for the holiday but they leave Friday and the wife is gone that weekend.  No one to tell me how messy my desk looks so I'll be in the garage.  I'll give you a call sometime this week.

Scott

I didn't have the schmancy tool until after we figured out what we were doing with our domestic work around.  Nothing like  [bang] to get you thinking of better ways to do something  ;)

If you change your mind on the bearings I'll be at Cheshire Tuesday and can pick them up for you.  Did I mention they're cool, sexy, spiffy, hi-tech . . .
http://www.speedymoto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=03-02TB-1&Category_Code=BR (http://www.speedymoto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=03-02TB-1&Category_Code=BR)

Did I ever mention my childlike wonderment at torque wrenches?

I own three, including the first one I got when I was 17.  Yeah, after reading mixed reviews on workarounds from others I figured that was a Duc specific tool worth having around, like the front axle holder.  Of course the axle holder only set me back about $7 and Dan used it last season too.

Still no on the bearings unless mine are mangled.  I just spent $300 on parts this week.  Gotta save some money for the wife to get some stuff too.  Oh, and the mortgage.  In this economy keeping the condo is a close second to keeping my bike.  I had a nightmare last night that we had to rent an apartment without a garage.

Scott

Thanks for the loan of the steering nut tool Chuck.  I just got the headset apart.  Like yours the top was ok.  The bottom was a little icky.  The grease was rust colored and there are a few bearings that aren't totally shiny.  They're a little dark but not pitted and disgusting like yours.  I think these are serviceable for a little while more with fresh grease but I'll probably replace them in a year or two.  Interestingly, mine were corroded on the back and I think yours were on the front.  I suppose yours definitely are getting beat up by high wind and rain and amybe mine are just suffering from a little moisture that got in and sought the lowest point.  Greasing the headset is definitely on the yearly winter maintenance list from now on.

So, off to the shop for some grease and then I'll slap it all back together and see how the new fork springs and oil feel.  I was thinking about it and the kind of grease you used is definitely better than moly grease for the headset.  It's thicker, goopier, and sticks around longer.

Scott

dewd, you have it apart already

just replace them now

+1

That's the approach I tend to take with maintenance.  If I have an area torn apart, I just replace all the wear parts at the same time while I'm in there.  Upgrades, stock replacements, doesn't matter, I just like to do it all at once.  Setup and tear down is a bizatch, and I'm lazy, so I like to minimize how many times I'm pulling tools out and putting them back away, or how often I'm putting the car or bike up and down on/off the stands.  I love wrenching... I just hate setup and clean up, and I'm not fond of disassembling part of the vehicle more times than I have to.

Yeah, it's $$$.  Trying to pay down bills and save while we try to have kids and are waiting to get laid off.  $60 is $60.  Besides, the were serviceable and it only takes a half hour to get it apart if I need to.  Also, I don't tend to replace things unless there's a reason.  Too cheap and pragmatic.  All that said, those roller bearings are SEXY!

Scott

roller? mine were ball, where do you get rollers from? I heard someone was making them aftermarket.

SpeedyMoto makes some, DesmoTimes carries some, not sure whose.  Much nicer than ball bearings, roller bearings offer more contact area where the bearings meet the races.  So they wear better and don't get hammered as badly when you land wheelies.  I think this is what Chuck just installed.

Scott

Yah BABY!  They're SEXXY!!!

I posted a link earlier in this discussion?  Somewhere in the North West section anyway . . .

Cheshire carries them - The Speedymoto ones.

I miss my VW bugs I had growing up.  Even performance parts were dirt cheap.  Wheel bearings were something like $3 a piece, brake drums $10, dual exhaust headers $150.  Time marches on.  At least I now have all that air cooled experience.  Remarkable how similar it feels working on the Duc engine.

Scott