What all is involved in removing my wheels to take them in for new tires?
Can i do the front wheel on just a fork stand?
Do i need to remove rotors?
What about the back wheel? Rotors off?
Bikes an S2R800...
Back wheel is easy. Get a 46mm socket. Take the retaining pin off, put the bike in 6th, have someone stand on the rear brake, turn counter-clockwise. Front wheel will need the rotors removed at the same time as the wheel. Meaning you will need to un-bolt the rotors before attempting to remove the wheel. To remove the wheel, jack up the front end using your preferred method, un-do the pinch bolts on the front of the fork bottoms, removes the nut on the right side (while looking at the front of the bike from the front), pound out the axle, remove wheel...
Quote from: corey on May 21, 2009, 05:42:52 PM
What all is involved in removing my wheels to take them in for new tires?
Can i do the front wheel on just a fork stand?
Do i need to remove rotors?
What about the back wheel? Rotors off?
Bikes an S2R800...
What all is involved in removing my wheels to take them in for new tires?
Can i do the front wheel on just a fork stand? Bike up on rear and front stands? Then, yes. loosen axlw nut, loosen axle crimp screws, with tool for front axle removal and hammer, remove front wheel axle. All this after you've removed the calipers from their support[made installation much easier,even I had to work more]. Then if you don't have the tools, take wheels to un/install new rubber, balance and before installing, do some detailed cleaning and lube job on axle crimp area[in my area, hi humidity so 1500grit sandpaper, 3in1 oil and then before install], then just a dab of copper molycote on the axle or anti-seize, install axle, pre-tighten nut and ..forgot order to tighten fork crimp screws and torque..Sorry :-[
Do i need to remove rotors?
Do not remove the rotors, so I've been told by dealer's tech
What about the back wheel? Rotors off? To my knowledge, only the sprocket.
Bikes an S2R800...
Trying to help, done twice at home.
Tutorial: Front wheel removal and installation (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=10276.0)
No, you do not need to take off your rotors for a tire change.
Not sure why they told you not to remove the rotors, but you can't remove the calipers without removing the rotors. Also, forgot to mention you'll need to remove the calipers from their mounts as well...
edit: at least I couldn't without scratching my wheels trying to get them off...
Quote from: NAKID on May 21, 2009, 05:58:59 PM
Not sure why they told you not to remove the rotors, but you can't remove the calipers without removing the rotors. Also, forgot to mention you'll need to remove the calipers from their mounts as well...
Is something particular about the s2r specifically that makes it so that he can't remove the calipers w/o taking off the rotors? That doesn't sound right.
I ran into clearance issues with the rim itself...
Ah, gotcha. Yeah, that can happen. Mine get pretty close and/or barely touch. You have to kinda twist 'em. Use duct tape or something to protect the rim if necessary. If there are serious clearance issues, it helps to separate the pads beforehand with a screwdriver before removing the calipers. Just don't gouge the rotors if you're separating the pads.
That makes sense, but in my case, it was just easier to remove the rotors too since I was switching to different wheels as well...
Yes to removing the calipers! No to rotors!
1-Break torque on front axle nut
2-Get two pieces of speaker wire long enough to tie off on each side of handlebar and reach the calipers
3-Pre tie pieces up on the handle bar
4-Remove hex bolts securing calipers, bottom first prevents caliper from swinging out and tagging rim.
5-One hand holding caliper, remove top bolt.
6-Flex caliper to seat the pads/piston further into the caliper, done gently using the rotor. I dont use any kind of screwdriver. But you do want to be aware the pad material is vulnerable.
7-Once you get enough wiggle room, the caliper will tilt sideways so that as you withdraw it away from the rotor and lean it outwards, it clears the rim.
8-Run speaker wire through top bolt hole (I use speaker wire since it has a nice coating on the wire, doesnt slip and you really only need a single knot. You can place some painter tape on the rim, just for safety.
9-Repeat on opposite side.
10-Raise bike, loosen pinch bolts (axle nut is already broke loose) If using a Pit Bull stand, you can twist the front wheel with room to remove the axle, but I prefer to brake the torque off the stand since it can get in the way.
11-Do not fiddle with the front brake lever, put a rag over the control if you are a habitual brake pumper/clutch puller.
Rear Wheel is the easiest. Bike on lift, use an electric impact wrench. Done. Use torque wrench on re-install.
On the caliper issue, I've used different wires before, but settled on the speaker wire (see thru coating) since it just plain works on cars or bike. Hope I didn't miss anything...hmmm last reminder, Don't pull the brake lever!!!
Hmmm, maybe you can do that on the 2 piston calipers, but there was no way the 4 piston calipers would clear on my S2R1000...
Though my bike is not a SR, the wheel size, rotor size and offset and calipers are the same as yours and mine clear. It is tight, but they clear.
S2R800 shop manual doesn't mention removing rotor bolts prior to removing wheel. Remove caliper bolts, calipers, LH axle nut, pinch bolts, knock the axle out from the left side with a plastic hammer or equivalent, slide wheel out and collect the spacer on LH side, in that order. I can't imagine why you would have to go to the trouble of removing the rotor bolts just to get the front wheel off. Talk about an illogical pain in the ass. On an S2R1k it's probably tight but doable just the same without removing them. This is why it helps to have the shop manual, it will define the wheel removal process for you.
You may want to remove the rotors after you get the wheel off though, to prevent damage to the rotors themselves during the tire removal and mounting process, idiot tire techs considered. You will need an allen tool made of quality tool steel, penetrant, and/or gentle application of heat to get these bolts out. Use threadlocker on reassembly. Or you could just remind the tire tech to use caution and save yourself the headache.
Quote from: bergdoerfer on May 21, 2009, 09:23:17 PM
You will need an allen tool made of quality tool steel, penetrant, and/or gentle application of heat to get these bolts out. Use threadlocker on reassembly. Or you could just remind the tire tech to use caution and save yourself the headache.
It's not an allen tool though, it's a torx. T-40 if I remember correctly...
Well, once last question i guess..
I'm going to be taking BOTH wheels in for tire changes.
Is the bike stable enough to sit on the stands without at least one wheel?
Obviously, this will be my first attempt at removing wheels...
Quote from: corey on May 22, 2009, 05:20:23 AM
Well, once last question i guess..
I'm going to be taking BOTH wheels in for tire changes.
Is the bike stable enough to sit on the stands without at least one wheel?
Obviously, this will be my first attempt at removing wheels...
The bike will be fine on stands.
Put it on the rear stand first...and you don't have to remove rotors.
cool beans.
any special type of grease i need to use on the axle?
Yes. I leave mine on a rear (swingarm) and a front (tree-mount) stand all the time. It can be knocked over, but it takes a decent push.
dp beat me [laugh] I use a synthetic Moly grease. Valvoline brand from my local auto parts store. Seems to be find for my little M750. I'm sure you're get plenty of responses on the grease thing though ~
JM
Quote from: NAKID on May 21, 2009, 08:20:33 PM
Hmmm, maybe you can do that on the 2 piston calipers, but there was no way the 4 piston calipers would clear on my S2R1000...
I'm doing that way on my S2R1000. The thing that I would get concerned about with rotor removal is multiple removals/re-torque. IMO the calipers have hardware meant to be removed (2 bolts) versus um-teen fasteners on two rotors. I checked the spec on my 06, and it has the four piston setup also.
I did my rear tire last week and the front this week. On the front, I found that the fork stand that I got from Cycle Gear, the kind with the pins that go into the bottom of the forks, rubbed on the front axle, making it impossible to pull the axle. So I used 2 hydraulic jacks, on one each side of the engine, with a block of wood on top of each, to get the front wheel off the ground. Removed both calipers, you just have to kind of twist them to get them off the rotors, removed the wheel, broke the beads, busted the old tire off and the new one on, took about 10 minutes, did the reassembly, and I make sure to loctite the caliper bolts. And I lightly grease the axle too. And I use never-seize on the pinch bolts on the bottom of the forks.
The rear is pretty straight forward, no surprises there. Same thing. Lightly grease the axle, makes it come out nice and easy the next time. And we all know how often you have to change tires on these things.
Since removal has been thoroughly discussed, Lets talk about reinstall
Anti seize on pinch bolts is a must.Grease on the axle is also a must. Anti seize on the axle bolt is recommended as well. Here's the proper procedure to putting the front wheel back on.
Step 1: You need to go to the duc dealer and buy a tool to insert into your axle to keep it from spinning. Its like 5 bucks at a dealer. Most people use pinch bolts to do this but this is the proper way to seat your axle. Personally I dont recommend the pinchbolt method. See pic below for tool
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/2369/zoom.jpg)
Step 2: Tighten the axle to half the torque spec using this tool with a screwdriver inserted into the holes.
Step 3: Drop the front end of the bike down to the ground. You can keep in on the rearstand. Sit on the bike and hold the bike straight up. Push the front end down 5 or six times. This will seat the axle properly.
Step 4: Put the back on the front stand and tighten the axle bolt to spec. You will need the tool to keep the axle from spinning.
Step 5: Torque the pinchbolts to spec.
There are pics and more detailed install instructions in the link below. You don't need the Duc-specific tool. A screwdriver or allen wrench works fine.
Quote from: Spidey on May 21, 2009, 05:57:30 PM
Tutorial: Front wheel removal and installation (http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=10276.0)
Just a though, so that by accident you don't close the calipers with the lever, get a piece of plywood or which ever material yu prefer of about 5mm[a bit less that 1/4"] and place it in between the pads right after you've taken the calipers off.
This will prevent the caliper pistons from coming out.
If someone else already said this, please ignore, I haven't had time to read every word of every post.
I just removed both wheels on my 888 to get new tires. To get the front calipers off, I remove the two bolts holding them in place, then twist the caliper back and forth a few times to force the pads back a millimeter or two. Then they'll come out of there without scratching the rim. Be sure nobody touches the front brake lever until you get them back in place. It's probably best to loosen them both up at the same time or one might squeeze the pads back together a little while you're working on the other one. At least that's what I think happened with mine.
For the single sided swingarm Ducatis, just take the big nut off and remove the wheel. Nothing else to do there.
For the two sided swingarm Ducatis usually you just take the axle out, slide the wheel forward a little bit and pull the chain off of the rear sprocket, letting it hang over the left side of the swingarm, then pull the wheel out the back. I thought I was always able to do that without touching the brake caliper on Monsters, ST2s, and 888s, but for some reason I had to take the rear caliper off this last time to get the wheel out of my 888. No big deal.
I also had to take the front off of the stand to find clearance to get the rear wheel back in place. Ah, the fun of motorcycle maintenance. At least I had a great time scrubbing in the new tires. [moto]
Quote from: Spidey on May 21, 2009, 06:03:24 PM
Ah, gotcha. Yeah, that can happen. Mine get pretty close and/or barely touch. You have to kinda twist 'em. Use duct tape or something to protect the rim if necessary. If there are serious clearance issues, it helps to separate the pads beforehand with a screwdriver before removing the calipers. Just don't gouge the rotors if you're separating the pads.
+1 In addition, I use about one million swear words. ;D
turns out you don't need to worry about the axle alignment too much when you have really shitty non-adjustable forks ;D
will the bike be okay on just a front FORK stand (plus a rear stand, obviously)... Not a triple/pin type stand?
Quote from: EEL on May 22, 2009, 10:00:35 AM
Since removal has been thoroughly discussed, Lets talk about reinstall
Anti seize on pinch bolts is a must.Grease on the axle is also a must. Anti seize on the axle bolt is recommended as well. Here's the proper procedure to putting the front wheel back on.
Step 1: You need to go to the duc dealer and buy a tool to insert into your axle to keep it from spinning. Its like 5 bucks at a dealer. Most people use pinch bolts to do this but this is the proper way to seat your axle. Personally I dont recommend the pinchbolt method. See pic below for tool
(http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/2369/zoom.jpg)
Happen to have a part # on this bad skipper? [thumbsup]
Adam
My M800 has 4-piston calipers and 320 mm rotors. Just remove the brake pads (2 mini-Cotter pins, 2 std pins and the spring plate) and the calipers clear the wheel no problem. Label the pads and hardware so they go back to the same locations. No need to remove rotors, front or rear, at the tire shop I use anyway.
Ok, i have read through this thread and still can't figure out how in the name of all that is holy, to remove the rear wheel from my s2r. I got the big 46mm nut off and the washer, i also removed the caliper. The damn thing won't budge.
any ideas why i am so retarded?!?!?! [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang]
edit: there appears to be an aluminum bushing preventing the wheel from coming off. How does one remove this?
Quote from: rockaduc on May 25, 2012, 02:39:43 PM
Ok, i have read through this thread and still can't figure out how in the name of all that is holy, to remove the rear wheel from my s2r. I got the big 46mm nut off and the washer, i also removed the caliper. The damn thing won't budge.
any ideas why i am so retarded?!?!?! [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang]
edit: there appears to be an aluminum bushing preventing the wheel from coming off. How does one remove this?
That's just a spacer - hit the wheel with a rubber mallet from the swingarm side. It'll come off.
Cheers,
Adam
If you got the big nut off the right side, thats it.. Your wheel might be siezed on the drive pins. Spray some wd-40 into the crack between the wheel and the hub and wait 5 minutes. if you have a rubber mallot, tap the left size of the wheel to dislodge.
Oh..looks like the doc beat me to it.
Thanks fellas. Ran out of time for the evening for this. Will give it a try upon return from some very much needed R and R.
[thumbsup]
monkey f#cks football (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n56jSYykS-Y#)
But to add something productive, when installing the rear wheel you must make sure that the 4 hub pins align with their holes. This is one of the few ways to botch the job. For those of you who are less vain, a paint pen or sharpie can be used to mark the outer hub to make alignment from the threaded side a no brainer. Rear wheel swaps can literally be done in less than 30 seconds, a bit longer with a beer in one hand... Wheel changes are not rocket surgery or brain science, just an understanding of where the slack comes from. Now back to my regularly scheduled hangover...
Finally got more time to fiddle last night. Liberally applied wd-40, grabbed a beer, came back and gave the wheel a good tug. Off it went. I took notice of the pins as I was cleaning the aluminum bushing, hub threads, and wheel. I can't see how you could mess up the install, but I'm the guy that couldn't get the rear wheel removed in the first place.
Thanks for all the tips!