Wheel Removal for Tire Change

Started by corey, May 21, 2009, 05:42:52 PM

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ducpainter

Quote from: corey on May 22, 2009, 05:20:23 AM
Well, once last question i guess..
I'm going to be taking BOTH wheels in for tire changes.
Is the bike stable enough to sit on the stands without at least one wheel?
Obviously, this will be my first attempt at removing wheels...
The bike will be fine on stands.

Put it on the rear stand first...and you don't have to remove rotors.
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corey

cool beans.
any special type of grease i need to use on the axle?
When all the land lays in ruin... And burnination has forsaken the countryside... Only one guy will remain... My money's on...

the_Journeyman

Yes.  I leave mine on a rear (swingarm) and a front (tree-mount) stand all the time.  It can be knocked over, but it takes a decent push.  

dp beat me  [laugh]  I use a synthetic Moly grease.  Valvoline brand from my local auto parts store.  Seems to be find for my little M750.  I'm sure you're get plenty of responses on the grease thing though ~

JM
Got Torque?
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billg69gmc

Quote from: NAKID on May 21, 2009, 08:20:33 PM
Hmmm, maybe you can do that on the 2 piston calipers, but there was no way the 4 piston calipers would clear on my S2R1000...

I'm doing that way on my S2R1000. The thing that I would get concerned about with rotor removal is multiple removals/re-torque. IMO the calipers have hardware meant to be removed (2 bolts) versus um-teen fasteners on two rotors. I checked the spec on my 06, and it has the four piston setup also.
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corndog67

I did my rear tire last week and the front this week.   On the front, I found that the fork stand that I got from Cycle Gear, the kind with the pins that go into the bottom of the forks, rubbed on the front axle, making it impossible to pull the axle.   So I used 2 hydraulic jacks, on one each side of the engine, with a block of wood on top of each, to get the front wheel off the ground.   Removed both calipers, you just have to kind of twist them to get them off the rotors, removed the wheel, broke the beads, busted the old tire off and the new one on, took about 10 minutes, did the reassembly, and I make sure to loctite the caliper bolts.  And I lightly grease the axle too.   And I use never-seize on the pinch bolts on the bottom of the forks. 

The rear is pretty straight forward, no surprises there.  Same thing.  Lightly grease the axle, makes it come out nice and easy the next time.  And we all know how often you have to change tires on these things. 

EEL

#20
Since removal has been thoroughly discussed, Lets talk about reinstall

Anti seize on pinch bolts is a must.Grease on the axle is also a must. Anti seize on the axle bolt is recommended as well. Here's the proper procedure to putting the front wheel back on.

Step 1: You need to go to the duc dealer and buy a tool to insert into your axle to keep it from spinning. Its like 5 bucks at a dealer. Most people use pinch bolts to do this but this is the proper way to seat your axle. Personally I dont recommend the pinchbolt method. See pic below for tool



Step 2: Tighten the axle to half the torque spec using this tool with a screwdriver inserted into the holes.

Step 3: Drop the front end of the bike down to the ground. You can keep in on the rearstand. Sit on the bike and hold the bike straight up. Push the front end down 5 or six times. This will seat the axle properly.

Step 4: Put the back on the front stand and tighten the axle bolt to spec. You will need the tool to keep the axle from spinning.

Step 5: Torque the pinchbolts to spec.





Spidey

There are pics and more detailed install instructions in the link below.    You don't need the Duc-specific tool.  A screwdriver or allen wrench works fine.

Quote from: Spidey on May 21, 2009, 05:57:30 PM
Tutorial:  Front wheel removal and installation
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DarkMonster620

Just a though, so that by accident you don't close the calipers with the lever, get a piece of plywood or which ever material yu prefer of about 5mm[a bit less that 1/4"] and place it in between the pads right after you've taken the calipers off.
This will prevent the caliper pistons from coming out.
Carlos
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ScottRNelson

If someone else already said this, please ignore, I haven't had time to read every word of every post.

I just removed both wheels on my 888 to get new tires.  To get the front calipers off, I remove the two bolts holding them in place, then twist the caliper back and forth a few times to force the pads back a millimeter or two.  Then they'll come out of there without scratching the rim.  Be sure nobody touches the front brake lever until you get them back in place.  It's probably best to loosen them both up at the same time or one might squeeze the pads back together a little while you're working on the other one.  At least that's what I think happened with mine.

For the single sided swingarm Ducatis, just take the big nut off and remove the wheel.  Nothing else to do there.

For the two sided swingarm Ducatis usually you just take the axle out, slide the wheel forward a little bit and pull the chain off of the rear sprocket, letting it hang over the left side of the swingarm, then pull the wheel out the back.  I thought I was always able to do that without touching the brake caliper on Monsters, ST2s, and 888s, but for some reason I had to take the rear caliper off this last time to get the wheel out of my 888.  No big deal.

I also had to take the front off of the stand to find clearance to get the rear wheel back in place.  Ah, the fun of motorcycle maintenance.  At least I had a great time scrubbing in the new tires.  [moto]
Scott R. Nelson, 2001 XR650L, 2020 KTM 790 Adv R, Meridian, ID

DucHead

Quote from: Spidey on May 21, 2009, 06:03:24 PM
Ah, gotcha.  Yeah, that can happen.  Mine get pretty close and/or barely touch.  You have to kinda twist 'em.   Use duct tape or something to protect the rim if necessary.  If there are serious clearance issues, it helps to separate the pads beforehand with a screwdriver before removing the calipers.  Just don't gouge the rotors if you're separating the pads. 

+1  In addition, I use about one million swear words.   ;D
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corey

#25
turns out you don't need to worry about the axle alignment too much when you have really shitty non-adjustable forks ;D
will the bike be okay on just a front FORK stand (plus a rear stand, obviously)... Not a triple/pin type stand?
When all the land lays in ruin... And burnination has forsaken the countryside... Only one guy will remain... My money's on...

DrDesmo

Quote from: EEL on May 22, 2009, 10:00:35 AM
Since removal has been thoroughly discussed, Lets talk about reinstall

Anti seize on pinch bolts is a must.Grease on the axle is also a must. Anti seize on the axle bolt is recommended as well. Here's the proper procedure to putting the front wheel back on.

Step 1: You need to go to the duc dealer and buy a tool to insert into your axle to keep it from spinning. Its like 5 bucks at a dealer. Most people use pinch bolts to do this but this is the proper way to seat your axle. Personally I dont recommend the pinchbolt method. See pic below for tool




Happen to have a part # on this bad skipper?  [thumbsup]

Adam
'95 916
'12 800XC

Mr Earl

My M800 has 4-piston calipers and 320 mm rotors.  Just remove the brake pads (2 mini-Cotter pins, 2 std pins and the spring plate) and the calipers clear the wheel no problem.  Label the pads and hardware so they go back to the same locations.  No need to remove rotors, front or rear, at the tire shop I use anyway.
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rockaduc

#28
Ok, i have read through this thread and still can't figure out how in the name of all that is holy, to remove the rear wheel from my s2r.  I got the big 46mm nut off and the washer, i also removed the caliper.  The damn thing won't budge.  
any ideas why i am so retarded?!?!?!  [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang]


edit: there appears to be an aluminum bushing preventing the wheel from coming off.  How does one remove this?
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DrDesmo

Quote from: rockaduc on May 25, 2012, 02:39:43 PM
Ok, i have read through this thread and still can't figure out how in the name of all that is holy, to remove the rear wheel from my s2r.  I got the big 46mm nut off and the washer, i also removed the caliper.  The damn thing won't budge.  
any ideas why i am so retarded?!?!?!  [bang] [bang] [bang] [bang]


edit: there appears to be an aluminum bushing preventing the wheel from coming off.  How does one remove this?

That's just a spacer - hit the wheel with a rubber mallet from the swingarm side.  It'll come off.

Cheers,
Adam
'95 916
'12 800XC