Picked up a set of 2002 748 Showa Fully Adjustable Forks off of sleazeBay about a half hour ago...
here we go [evil] ;D [bacon]
Make sure you get 'em resprung asap. (revalving while they are already off is a great next step).
Check the sliders for pitting before you get nuts.
Quote from: ato memphis on December 04, 2009, 03:30:58 PM
Make sure you get 'em resprung asap. (revalving while they are already off is a great next step).
Check the sliders for pitting before you get nuts.
i've been having this discussion all over the place, so it's probably good to get it centralized.
on the matter of getting the forks resprung, at 190lbs, roughly 205-210lbs fully geared, is a 1.02 (stock 748 rate) spring really that far off?
racetech's calculator is putting be at a .95.. i'd be really upset if i resprung the forks, and found them too soft...
thoughts?
as far as pitting, the forks looked to be in really good shape aside from some overspray on the tubes from someone spraypainting their bottom triple black... hopefully they are solid. i'm extremely optimistic, and excited. the bike was a 2002, so they aren't "too" old...
forks here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140364738209#ht_6799wt_1167 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140364738209#ht_6799wt_1167)
i'm 230ish, and have a .95 up front. Plenty stiff for street use
I bought some 748S forks last week ,they are nice ones with the gold TIN
Maybe i go to hyperpro (there plant is about 10 miles from here) to get some new oil and maybe springs
Quote from: ato memphis on December 06, 2009, 07:25:30 AM
i'm 230ish, and have a .95 up front. Plenty stiff for street use
Fair enough.
I'll have to do research on where to have them sent or where to take them.
Any recommendations? I know racetech is on the table... something close would be nice though. I'm in Pittsburgh, PA...
Any reco's for valving, etc?
Well, if you are sending them away, there's Dept. of Suspension, Traxxion Dynamics, and Race Tech... However, your local shop will be able to do all of these for you as well.
BCM isn't all that far away, and I've heard good things about their shop, however I have FHE as I'm in Dallas and was in the Southeast previously.
I'm 270 and I just put older (2001) 996 forks on my S2R. Best mod yet. I had .95 springs in the stock forks and there were .95 springs in the 996 forks and they are PLENTY stiff. Also, Donnie at DucPond went through the forks and all they needed was an oil change - no seals, no valves. YMMV.
my forks werent as drastic, i put s4 forkes on my 620 and they were resprung/revalved and adjusted for my weight by valley ducati and they really made the bike so much more comfrotable to ride. and they have the cool gold tinitride color on them, which is just there for bling factor of course. [laugh] [laugh]
I also just scored a set of 3ways and will be having them rebuilt with racetech golds. Eric from Clubhouse Motorsports in moultonboro, Nh will be doing them. Eric use to be one of the top wrenches at BCM .... Now he's on his own.
Funny....
I just picked up some 748 forks to go onto MY S2R800.... odd, eh?
Quote from: Duck-Stew on December 06, 2009, 03:54:43 PM
Funny....
I just picked up some 748 forks to go onto MY S2R800.... odd, eh?
Great!
I can get some tips from a real pro ;D
What weight and bike did you plug into the calculator? I looked it up and you should be at .85 for street. FYI, the calculator adds weight for gear automatically so just use your body weight. You can use the 750M since it does not have your bike on there.
Do you plan to do trackdays? If so, you should lean more towards a slightly stiffer spring. If you are putting in a valve kit, you are gaining more adjustability. It's actually extreme overkill for the street. You will never get your money worth of the cost of a valve kit if you are riding street only. If you really want to learn about what your suspension is doing and save money, pick up a good suspension book, read it, then put the springs in yourself. Springs are $100, then you can purchase a spring compressor (optional) to make it easier. This book will teach you everything you need to know and knowledge is power ;) http://www.amazon.com/Sportbike-Suspension-Tuning-Andrew-Trevitt/dp/1893618455/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1260214993&sr=1-2 (http://www.amazon.com/Sportbike-Suspension-Tuning-Andrew-Trevitt/dp/1893618455/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1260214993&sr=1-2)
Just trying to help you out. [thumbsup]
Thanks to your recommendations, i already have that book ;D
I'm about half way through it.
Haven't really gotten to the section about valving yet.
It is a street bike, yes, but i do plan on tracking it in the future, as well as turning it into a serious project bike when i have the funds to buy another one to ride while it's incapacitated.
I'm assuming that the valving in the stock 748 forks is much better than that of my Marzocchis.
If you guys say that a valve kit is overkill for street, i will take your word for it.
Without thinking, i was using the 748 for the bike when checking spring rates.
I was also using a secondary calculator, the name of which escapes me currently, and averaging the two out.
I wanted to lean a little toward the stiff side, as i do ride a bit a spirited, and do plan to track it on occasion.
I'm also not exactly getting any lighter... and do load up with a backup pretty much every other ride.
So dropping in springs (and I'm assuming replacing oil) is something i can pull off myself?
I feel like i should replace the seals and rebuild anything I can before getting the forks back on the bike..
Thoughts?
Thanks for the help FBD, it's greatly appreciated.
RaceTech has a pretty good DVD showing ya how to do it all. Since you'll have your marzocchi's sitting around as well, you might think about experimentally taking one of those apart as a practice run, so you have a general idea about how forks work and don't end up crushing or scratching up one of the new fork's tubes real bad or anything.
Quote from: ato memphis on December 07, 2009, 10:41:39 AM
RaceTech has a pretty good DVD showing ya how to do it all. Since you'll have your marzocchi's sitting around as well, you might think about experimentally taking one of those apart as a practice run, so you have a general idea about how forks work and don't end up crushing or scratching up one of the new fork's tubes real bad or anything.
good idea!
is there a danger of CRUSHING a fork tube?
the outside tube is just a nice machined aluminum. I'm not sure if you are into asserting "who is the dominant male" in your garage (you or the part you are working on) but sometimes I f*ck things up by going monster-truck all over something.
Kinda like knowing when and when not to use a bfh.
(http://admin.bungie.net/images/News/WeeklyUpdate/Update%20Studio%20Pics/update_security.jpg)
bfh = big f*cking hammer. sometimes referred to as "The Customizer" in my garage.
yea, i know exactly what you mean...
i have a new rule in my garage.. aluminum = no hammer.
Quote from: ato memphis on December 07, 2009, 11:05:46 AM
(http://admin.bungie.net/images/News/WeeklyUpdate/Update%20Studio%20Pics/update_security.jpg)
bfh = big f*cking hammer. sometimes referred to as "The Customizer" in my garage.
:o Holy shit. ATO, remind me to never make you angry. ;D
ha. that's certainly not me, nor my hammer. You can't really swing that one very well in the garage. (But isn't that what backyards are for?)
corey, finish reading the book. Things will make a lot more sense when you're done. You can respring your forks if you are mechanical at all...seriously, it's easy.
As far as the valve kit, use your money on other things. It will be a waste. There are a lot of really fast racers that don't even have valve kits. Think of it this way...it's a mod for when you have extracted all of the performance that you can out of your forks. You are a very long way away from that...in fact, you will probably never get there by only doing trackdays...make more sense if I put it that way?
You can set up those new forks really well by respringing them, changing oil, and setting up your geometry on the bike. (read the book! ;))
[thumbsup] Roger that. I shall continue my read. I've done all my own work on my bike thus far, and am not afraid to take things off (and put the back on, obviously) that are important. i trust myself just as much, if not more, than someone else. as i've learned, just gotta make sure you have the right tools.
thanks for all the info thus far guys. i will keep you all in touch with the swap as it goes along, and will of course post up if i run into problems...
one quick thing, i need to drill my axle correct? or should i just pick up one with the hole already in it? or do the 748 forks have an external adjustment down low for... rebound is it? or compression... (still learning)
Here to provide you with more resources:
Gotham Cycles (http://www.gothamcycles.com/) for any parts you might end up needing and don't feel like waiting around on ebay for.
Quote from: ato memphis on December 07, 2009, 03:56:13 PM
Here to provide you with more resources:
Gotham Cycles (http://www.gothamcycles.com/) for any parts you might end up needing and don't feel like waiting around on ebay for.
yea i found these guys a few weeks back when i needed to buy those damn fender mounts that i "monster trucked" as you say...
very handy... their website is nice and easy to use as well..
Quote from: corey on December 07, 2009, 03:52:22 PM
one quick thing, i need to drill my axle correct? or should i just pick up one with the hole already in it? or do the 748 forks have an external adjustment down low for... rebound is it? or compression... (still learning)
Pretty sure you will need to put some holes in your axle for access to the rebound circuit.
Quote from: rockaduc on December 08, 2009, 12:37:49 AM
Pretty sure you will need to put some holes in your axle for access to the rebound circuit.
thanks rockaduc, it looks like this is definitely the case. no big deal, i'm sure I can handle it. if not, i'll just buy one. maybe Ti... ;D
Quote from: corey on December 08, 2009, 04:30:40 AM
thanks rockaduc, it looks like this is definitely the case. no big deal, i'm sure I can handle it. if not, i'll just buy one. maybe Ti... ;D
correct me if I'm wrong...... But I thought the bottom screw (through axle) is comp
Quote from: Charlief on December 08, 2009, 08:21:20 AM
correct me if I'm wrong...... But I thought the bottom screw (through axle) is comp
i'm not sure... i think so though... rebound and preload are up top?
Quote from: Charlief on December 08, 2009, 08:21:20 AM
correct me if I'm wrong...... But I thought the bottom screw (through axle) is comp
you are correct. my mistake. I was thinking of the rear which has the rebound circuit at the bottom and the compression at the top
I just had Nick of Valley Ducati Service (Speeddog here on the DMF) pick up my 748 forks for a re-spring, fluid change and new seals. He has a set of used 0.85 springs that are straight-rate. Should be good IMO.
thanks for the heads up!
forks arrived today :D :D
they look GREAT. better than i expected.
the lowers are in great shape, tubes actually look scratch free, just some black spraypaint to be removed.
the sliders are nice and shiny, i took a microfiber to them to remove some grime, there are no signs of pitting, just some dirt where the lowers attach.
seals look leak free, although i may have them replaced just so i don't have to do it later...
springs feel REAL stiff :D
red anodized caps are slightly faded to a bit of an orange... which should match my tangerine bike just fine ;D ;D
i am PUMPED.
anything else i should check for?
Maybe a fluid change?
I got mine the other day and took them apart....oil definitely needed a change.
I'm going the full rebuild. New springs, Racetech valves, etc.
Quote from: Charlief on December 11, 2009, 05:35:16 PM
Maybe a fluid change?
I got mine the other day and took them apart....oil definitely needed a change.
I'm going the full rebuild. New springs, Racetech valves, etc.
yea, i will definitely be changing oil when i do the springs, but not so much revalving... per recommendations...
i'm looking if there is anything physically wrong with the fork structures, any particular defects to examine for aside from what i mentioned...
Quote from: corey on December 11, 2009, 08:10:29 PM
yea, i will definitely be changing oil when i do the springs, but not so much revalving... per recommendations...
i'm looking if there is anything physically wrong with the fork structures, any particular defects to examine for aside from what i mentioned...
Use your triples as clamps to begin disassembly. Do NOT use a vise. (I suppose you already knew that or someone already posted that.)
Work in progress
(http://supertjeduc.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p306896133-5.jpg)
I just bought some MR Clip ons , tried the dp ones but it wouldn't fit with the triple
@corey, .90 springs would be about right.
Might as well change the oil while you've got 'em apart.
Quote from: pompetta on December 12, 2009, 03:20:52 AM
Use your triples as clamps to begin disassembly. Do NOT use a vise. (I suppose you already knew that or someone already posted that.)
well.. i was planning on respringing the forks OFF the bike, so i could go in, swap triples, install forks, and be done...
i was going to be using these: http://traxxionstore.com/detail-10.aspx (http://traxxionstore.com/detail-10.aspx)
along with my vice and some foam rubber between... should i not?
can i do it with NEW triple clamps OFF the bike?
I did mine on my bench with a vise.
I use these .... Craftsman Vise Jaws (http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00951866000P?vName=Tools+%26+Equipment&keyword=vise)
Worked perfectly. They are a rubber/poly type ... magnets keep them on the vise. I get alot of use out of these things. You don't have to tighten all that much... they grip well.
Quote from: Charlief on December 13, 2009, 02:39:12 AM
I did mine on my bench with a vise.
I use these .... Craftsman Vise Jaws (http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00951866000P?vName=Tools+%26+Equipment&keyword=vise)
Worked perfectly. They are a rubber/poly type ... magnets keep them on the vise. I get alot of use out of these things. You don't have to tighten all that much... they grip well.
Awesome. I'll be by a Sears today, i shall pick them up. Thanks for the advice!
Love me some Craftsman too...
Alright, so I guess the next part, which I haven't looked into very much (I am assuming it's easy enough) is swapping triple clamps...
What's all involved? I know i need the special tool, no big deal, but what else is going to go on? I am planning on upgrading to speedymoto tapered bearings while in there...
I just did this on my 1999. Not hard.
Get gauges, bars, headlight, etc, out of the way.
Loosen three pinch bolts (your stock triple may have more, like two per fork tube) for top triple. Remove center nut. Whack with rubber mallet.
Top triple comes off. A nut is revealed below this. I used a spanner wrench to loosen it (didn't take much effort) and then removed it with my fingers. There's a big washer below that, it can come out too. Now the lower triple can be removed.
You'll find this a lot easier if you suspend the bike from the sealing. If you are using any kind of front stand, you'll get to the point where you would remove the lower triple and discover you can't because of the front stand.
Quote from: ato memphis on December 14, 2009, 04:44:21 AM
I just did this on my 1999. Not hard.
Get gauges, bars, headlight, etc, out of the way.
Loosen three pinch bolts (your stock triple may have more, like two per fork tube) for top triple. Remove center nut. Whack with rubber mallet.
Top triple comes off. A nut is revealed below this. I used a spanner wrench to loosen it (didn't take much effort) and then removed it with my fingers. There's a big washer below that, it can come out too. Now the lower triple can be removed.
You'll find this a lot easier if you suspend the bike from the sealing. If you are using any kind of front stand, you'll get to the point where you would remove the lower triple and discover you can't because of the front stand.
i'll be lifting from below with wood and jackstands...
what about the bottom triple, replacing that sucker.. how do i get the steering tube and bearings and everything in there?
pretty simple?
what i'm concerned about is that the triples i'm looking at have a much larger bottom triple... (IMA)
i know that for the forks, i need to match the measurement from the bottom of the fork tube to the bottom of the top triple, correct? how do i go about that if my triples are a different thickness....
The IMA triples come with the steering stem.
You'll measaure to the top of the lower triple. That will stay the same when you change triples because the triples are flat across the top. The extension is southbound on thicker triples.
If you order a set of bearings from SpeedyMoto (they'll send you SKF) it will include the washer that goes below the lower tapered bearing on the steering stem and the cover washer that goes just below the adjustment nut on the stem (above the top bearing set).
The races will be pressed in to the stem. You knock the old ones out and drive the new ones in. Freeze 'em and they drop in even easier, but this is not difficult it turns out.
Note, that when I say it comes included in the speedymoto kit, I can only speak from experience for the older Monsters (pre 02, and all SS's, and 851/888 bikes) because they came with a tapered bearing set from the factory.
Not to Jack the thread but.....
What's the advantage of using tapered bearings? I'll be taking my front end apart but I'll be using the stock trips when everything goes back together.
I have no play in the front end and was just going to reuse the old bearings.
Quote from: Charlief on December 14, 2009, 09:13:03 AM
Not to Jack the thread but.....
What's the advantage of using tapered bearings? I'll be taking my front end apart but I'll be using the stock trips when everything goes back together.
I have no play in the front end and was just going to reuse the old bearings.
Well, according to speedymoto, the sealed tapered bearings all but eliminate head shake, and require much less maintenance than open ball bearings ducati uses for OEM.
http://www.speedymoto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=03-02TB-1&Category_Code=BR (http://www.speedymoto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=03-02TB-1&Category_Code=BR)
Quote from: ato memphis on December 14, 2009, 07:37:57 AM
The IMA triples come with the steering stem.
You'll measaure to the top of the lower triple. That will stay the same when you change triples because the triples are flat across the top. The extension is southbound on thicker triples.
If you order a set of bearings from SpeedyMoto (they'll send you SKF) it will include the washer that goes below the lower tapered bearing on the steering stem and the cover washer that goes just below the adjustment nut on the stem (above the top bearing set).
The races will be pressed in to the stem. You knock the old ones out and drive the new ones in. Freeze 'em and they drop in even easier, but this is not difficult it turns out.
Note, that when I say it comes included in the speedymoto kit, I can only speak from experience for the older Monsters (pre 02, and all SS's, and 851/888 bikes) because they came with a tapered bearing set from the factory.
Excellent Information.
Thanks my friend.
I love the IMA triples, i forgot that you had purchased them.
They look so... beefy :D :D
This is turning out to be a great informative thread.
When all is said and done, I will do a compilation thread, and hopefully a how-to on my fork swap for the Tut's section.
I'm sure i'll have more questions, so stay tuned.
I believe one advantage of tapered bearings is how the load is placed on the bearing surface. Make sure to pack 'em full of grease.
Before...
(https://lh5.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/SwCwUcVb2WI/AAAAAAAAEpg/GDKPmLi47Wk/s800/IMG_1792.JPG)
At some point, you'll be at this stage, I call it "half way"
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/SwCwX41c-dI/AAAAAAAAEps/FHK9ncx-qR0/s800/IMG00042-20091111-1528.jpg)
(Crackberry Pic)
Then...
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/SwNLWWr999I/AAAAAAAAEr0/2ZODbjn6qi8/s800/IMG_1852.JPG)
Then...
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_4iYlZ1m8UEM/SwSLHLRqJXI/AAAAAAAAEto/W6B1ii7aVns/s800/IMG_1877.JPG)
The "After" shot is soon approaching. Should be 'done' with this project near Jan 1.
Yum. Looking awesome man.
What clipons you got in there? I've been looking at the Swatt's myself. And some Coffin spacers of course...
Those are CycleCat's I have had for quite a long time. They are the titanium finish and matched well the titanium colored CycleCat top triple I used to have.
ATO, did you get risers with your triples? or no?
If not, was the top triple still equipped with holes/threads for risers?
Nah, I'm still using Clipons (CycleCat) from before when I had a CycleCat triple (no holes for the risers on it).
It does come with the holes drilled for risers though. They can provide risers as well, and/or spread the holes further apart for tapered bars like the Rizoma Conical bar and many others (which are stronger).
Also note that your setup won't look silly like my tall DP gauges or my excess throttle cabling for the Euro Racing Throttle. Those are aesthetic detractors from my setup, but are more function over form up there anyhow. I need to eventually come up with a better looking solution that accomplishes the same goal (like FCRs and a MotoGadget)
Great. I'm planning on going clipons to be able to clear my SBK fork adjusters without going to high on the bars, but want to be able to put risers on down the road if i get too old and rickity... in about 25 years... i'll probably just have them throw in the risers, just so i have something that matches... i'd love to put a motogadget on my bike... i hate the stock gauges... so damn big. i'd have to get the immobilizer deactivated though... but i would also get a DP reflash too, so that could be nice.. ;D ;D ;D
my savings account hates this bike.
Anyone know the length (height) of the stock fork tubes on the S2R800? (marzochhi forks)
Quote from: corey on December 22, 2009, 12:15:57 PM
Anyone know the length (height) of the stock fork tubes on the S2R800? (marzochhi forks)
I'll know later tonight....
Quote from: Speeddog on December 22, 2009, 12:25:50 PM
I'll know later tonight....
Sorry, I know you offered first, but I couldn't help myself.....
455/450mm with or without the dust seal and including top cap [thumbsup]
No problem. :)
So i'm trying to get in gear on this project... Some unexpected (but warranted) expenses came up and slowed things down... (new tv [thumbsup]) but i think i'm ready to at least get the forks resprung...
I've settled on a .95kg spring rate, which i think should be good for me @ 190-195lbs, depending on whether or not i take a crap before i ride...
Next question... fluid/oil... what weight fork oil do i need? what brand fluid? i have no clue on this, as i couldn't find much in my book about fluid choices...
I've also noticed a small "wear" spot on the one fork i bought. It doesn't look like a scuff from a drop, but rather a spot that was worn a little flat and POLISHED shiny by something rubbing... I'm thinking a brake line or speedo cable, or something smooth, but i don't know much about what's up there on a 748... any thoughts? It is on the 53mm part of the fork, below where the bottom triple would be... Not the girthiest part of the fork, but not the narrowest either.
These photos should help, but make the mark look alot deeper than it really is. You can see some residue as well, doesn't look like tarmac to me... The forks seem very straight, and compress and rebound very smoothly and consistently, even from one fork to the other. I'm hoping it's just wear from a brake line or speedo cable like i think it is...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4305672634_de4a87f770.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4062/4305672126_6cf236509c.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2741/4305671572_3db279707a.jpg)
It's like two rub marks, totaling about 3 inches in length (or one olive garden gift card... closest measuring device i had).
The worse of the two is about 3/4" in length, by about 5/16th" in width at the widest point.
thoughts please, i hope these forks aren't a zonk.
the scuff doesn't bother me so much visually, as I can just turn it to the back/inside-ish when i mount it...
also, since this started page 5, please see page 4 for my question about fork oil.
Looks like a wear mark from a brake line.
Also possibly the speedo cable.
Which leg is it on?
Glad you said that... I'm not sure what leg it's on, as i received the forks off the bike... is there a way to tell?
The marks had some black residue, which leads me to think speedo cable, as I would imagine that the brake lines were probably braided stainless with clear overwrap?
Pretty sure the SBK's have the brake line going down on the right side, and speedo cable on the left.
The lower casting that the calipers bolt to will tell you left/right leg.
Wow. that's easy. It's the right leg.
Quote from: corey on January 25, 2010, 06:21:31 AM
Next question... fluid/oil... what weight fork oil do i need? what brand fluid? i have no clue on this, as i couldn't find much in my book about fluid choices...
Did you buy the springs from Racetech? They have a very good Tech. call line. Call them and tell them what you are doing, and what type of riding you are doing. They will give you a recommended fluid weight, and level.
The thicker the fluid, the slower the compression and rebound. You have adjustments for that but you want a starting point. You will probably want around a 5W.
Quote from: fasterblkduc on January 26, 2010, 02:58:06 AM
Did you buy the springs from Racetech? They have a very good Tech. call line. Call them and tell them what you are doing, and what type of riding you are doing. They will give you a recommended fluid weight, and level.
The thicker the fluid, the slower the compression and rebound. You have adjustments for that but you want a starting point. You will probably want around a 5W.
Haven't bought the springs yet, but was planning to use RT. Thanks for the baseline. I'm sure they will be able to get me all situated.
Well, as the new title says.... Some fancy TiNi 999 forks on the way... Thanks to Theo
If anyone knows anything about these forks that might stall my progress... let me know :)
I'm already aware of the fender mount differences [thumbsup]
Also check caliper mount spacing.
I should have the forks off and packed up tomorrow Corey :) I'm going to see if I can't get the triples off the monster as well at the same time. Might just ship the forks first, triples to follow shortly after.
Quote from: rockaduc on February 15, 2010, 01:01:33 PM
Also check caliper mount spacing.
Yea i had looked into this, it seems like there may be some differences in rotor offset/pinch, i believe the 999 caliper mounts end up putting the calipers about 5mm further out from the rotor? As long as it doesn't move them CLOSER, which it don't think it can because the rotors on the bike have zero offset, then i'm not worries. My brother has a mill, so we are going to be machining some small spacers :) as far as mount spacing goes, these are the proper 65mm mounts.
Quote from: TAftonomos on February 15, 2010, 05:57:58 PM
I should have the forks off and packed up tomorrow Corey :) I'm going to see if I can't get the triples off the monster as well at the same time. Might just ship the forks first, triples to follow shortly after.
take your time man, if you want to ship them together, that's fine. i'm not getting to this any time soon. we are snowed in hard core, with more coming down right now. appreciate the commitment though!
Send Hooligan Machinist a PM - he made some not so long ago, and may have some spare sets of 5mm spacer. I got mine a little while back and he's done an awesome job on them.
Quote from: goldFiSh on February 15, 2010, 11:50:27 PM
Send Hooligan Machinist a PM - he made some not so long ago, and may have some spare sets of 5mm spacer. I got mine a little while back and he's done an awesome job on them.
Thanks for the heads up! PM Sent.
Quotethoughts please, i hope these forks aren't a zonk.
Like all said, just wear marks.
Have worse on mine, just mount them so marks are towards front cylinder,
like a 45 degree angle . I haven`t noticed my marks f years now.
Quote from: greenmonster on February 16, 2010, 06:12:30 AM
Like all said, just wear marks.
Have worse on mine, just mount them so marks are towards front cylinder,
like a 45 degree angle . I haven`t noticed my marks f years now.
got some different forks now :)
I got my new forks from an S2R1000. New Showas, revalved with a .90 spring. SHould be getting it back on Thursday after I get some other stuff done on it. I'll try to post pictures later this week.
I also have a set of Showas that are getting a little TLC. Anodizing/powdercoating/and a rebuild with new springs, gold valves, and custom stack.
Well boys. NOW it has actually begun. Sorta...
Step 1: Get old lower bearing off new steering stem... COMPLETE!
Got everything else lined up and ready to go!
New SpeedyMoto tapered bearing going on this weekend.
Figuring out lifting the bike this weekend.
999 Forks w/ Ohlins UES kit are ready for install.
5mm spacers for caliper mounts are being machined currently.
Fancy-Schmancy black triple clamps are bored/shimmed as necessary.
Drilled axle has (finally) been acquired, after one decided to jump ship (out of the box) during UPS shipment...
999 CF racing front fender acquired.
Woodcraft Clipons w/ 2-inch rise just arrived tonight! (top notch, really impressed).
All in all, i think everything is lined up, and i shouldn't be surprised by too much during the swap.
Anything I'm overlooking?
Also, I'm still having trouble determining exactly how i should mount the forks... measurement-wise.
They are exactly 5cm (50mm) longer than the stock S2R forks, excluding the top preload adjuster, but INcluding the fork cap itself. Should i just add the 5cm to the top? Or should i equal out some other distance, like lower triple to axle? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated, this is the only gray area i have still.
i would only measure to the top of the fork TUBE. Dont include any other measurement above that. I am also doing this conversion but with a stock bored triple and already have all my components minus the rotor spacers. However i am going to install forks before i decide on handlebars. Is there enough room without raising the forks for the clip ons to go ABOVE the triple?
Not an expert, just trying to be logical - if you are using a Fancy Schmancy triple tree, I would think that the best measurement is from axle to the steering stem. The triples might be different heights than stock.
I'm looking forward to seeing the final result and hearing what you think.
It should be a little better ;)
Stopintime is right. If you are using speedymoto triples, they have a different "curvature" than the stock triples. The top triple especially. When I did this conversion, I had a lot of fork leg exposed above the stock top triple. when i installed the speedymoto triple, most of the fork leg disappeared due to the speedymoto piece being shaped differently.
The triples are stock. Just black now [thumbsup]
Should i measure just add the difference in length to the fork tube above the triple? or should i still measure from axle to bottom triple? Should i do this with the bike on the ground? or hanging?
Quote from: jim_0068 on March 25, 2010, 07:48:14 PM
i would only measure to the top of the fork TUBE. Dont include any other measurement above that. I am also doing this conversion but with a stock bored triple and already have all my components minus the rotor spacers. However i am going to install forks before i decide on handlebars. Is there enough room without raising the forks for the clip ons to go ABOVE the triple?
on spacers: i think it's alot easier just to have four 5mm thick washers made for the caliper mounts, rather than have a rotor spacer made. The difference is so small, that it doesn't really create any safety issue just to move the calipers closer in. Basically you have a washer that is 5mm thick, with 2cm outer diameter, and 1cm inner diameter.
I'm not even positive they are needed, just going by what i've heard.
on clipons, the forks are only 5cm longer, so unless your clipons have mighty slim mounts, getting the on above the triples will be... challenging.
Quote from: corey on March 26, 2010, 05:07:54 AM
on spacers: i think it's alot easier just to have four 5mm thick washers made for the caliper mounts, rather than have a rotor spacer made. The difference is so small, that it doesn't really create any safety issue just to move the calipers closer in. Basically you have a washer that is 5mm thick, with 2cm outer diameter, and 1cm inner diameter.
I'm not even positive they are needed, just going by what i've heard.
on clipons, the forks are only 5cm longer, so unless your clipons have mighty slim mounts, getting the on above the triples will be... challenging.
you're correct you'll need to space the rotors out or space the calipers in. I have pics of a guy who made a caliper spacer if interested however i feel more comfortable with rotor spacers.
Quote from: jim_0068 on March 26, 2010, 07:06:39 PM
you're correct you'll need to space the rotors out or space the calipers in. I have pics of a guy who made a caliper spacer if interested however i feel more comfortable with rotor spacers.
pm sent regarding pics [thumbsup]
major success today, lower bearing install went smooth as butter.
i made a list of the exact shit i used to install it, for those in the future who wish to do this without buying a bunch of expensive tools....
SpeedyMoto Tapered Bearings...
Old lower bearing race turned upside down with a slit cut in it for expansion.
Driver was a 1-1/2" diameter standard black steel pipe "nipple" from home depot, 12" in length, threaded at both ends (not necessary, but i didn't feel like standing around waiting for the guy to cut them off) $5.67
Craftsman 2-lb dead-blow hammer
and a concrete floor with a folded up old t-shirt under the triple.
Left the triple/stem in the freezer for about an hour, and then let'er rip. Took about 5 whacks to seat it fully.. then 4 more or so to be sure [thumbsup]
Close one though, ALMOST forgot to slide the bearing seal on first... That would've sucked.
Better to put a 2x4 or such directly under the stem, then a shop-rag on that.
Quote from: Speeddog on March 27, 2010, 12:27:41 PM
Better to put a 2x4 or such directly under the stem, then a shop-rag on that.
noted sir. i'll be sure to check my stem/head (that's what she said) after a couple hundred miles incase something didn't seat fully.
[evil]
pics coming after i get the clipons all set up
One small question. Just to ease my mind.
The torque setting for the "steering bearing ring nut", i.e. the fancy top triple nut... is 30nm according to my shop manual, or about 22ft/lbs. I'm pretty sure it's correct...Can someone please confirm this? Just seems awfully light to me...
Thanks!
It is pretty light, I can't remember the number. But it doesn't do the "holding" - the pinch bolts on the triple that pinch around the steering stem do the real work.
Quote from: a m on April 12, 2010, 04:10:42 AM
It is pretty light, I can't remember the number. But it doesn't do the "holding" - the pinch bolts on the triple that pinch around the steering stem do the real work.
Thanks much AM, you'd think i giant nut like that would be responsible for a little more ;D
I'll be sure to recheck everything in a 100 miles or so. PICS TO COME. Still some small details to work out.
That ringnut sets the preload on the steering head bearings.
Quote from: Speeddog on April 12, 2010, 11:31:25 AM
That ringnut sets the preload on the steering head bearings.
Can you further elaborate on bearing preload? i don't quite get it...
Quote from: corey on April 12, 2010, 11:42:54 AM
Can you further elaborate on bearing preload? i don't quite get it...
They're angular-contact bearings, so they require an axial preload so that they can resist the radial loads of bike weight, bumps, front brake, etc.
More here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_bearing (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_bearing)
That's some interesting stuff. I understood about 10% of it, but interesting none the less! Thanks Speeddog!
still moving along.
couple minor set backs, but nothing too bad. did end up need spacers for my reservoirs. jeff @ monsterparts was more than happy to oblige [thumbsup]
other set back.... a little more aggravating... i noticed a small chip in my CF fender that I bought... didn't think much of it. got it installed last weekend, all went well. looked good, fit decent but a tad bit TIGHT on the mounting points... went back up today, the resin cracked from the chip, over to the guide hole/slot for the brake line... very disappointed :(
hopefully a refund will be in quick order, my fingers are crossed. i didn't ride with it, and if the damn thing cracks from just sitting there installed, it damn well would crack from the stresses of riding.
on an up note, got the clipon brackets and everything installed, man do they look awesome. bars are set in a nice spot, so much more comfortable than i would have imagined. the whole setup is putting my body at angle that allows me to use my entire core for support... the stock bar location with my rearsets had me at a strange spot... just a bit too high to really support myself from my center.
again, pics to come soon... camera was dead today..
also, shameless plug... my Suburban Machinery S2R (fat) bar is for sale...
http://www.suburban-machinery.com/ducati2.html (http://www.suburban-machinery.com/ducati2.html)
$150 SHIPPED Conti-US.
what clip ons are you using
Quote from: jim_0068 on April 17, 2010, 09:03:18 PM
what clip ons are you using
Woodcraft 53mm's with 2-inch rise. From oncycles.