well i managed to bust off the top of a bolt trying to torque down the valve covers to 240 inch lbs. Luckily I managed to drill the rest of the bolt out without any damage. Scary. I'm going to buy all new bolts and a new 5mm allen socket.
Am I torquing it to tight? Can I get away with anything looser?
2001 750M
Where did you get that number? That's 20ft-lbs. Seems a bit high.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about the settings at all. Just torque it so it's a bit tight w/o worrying about the numbers. If it weeps, tighten it. It's not like you're torquing down conrods or engine cases or anything. They're just covers.
So the German value-"Guudendtight" :P
90 in-lb is plenty for those bolts.
Thanks for the advice.
I just messed up another bolt tighting the belt tentioners at 20ft lbs. Hopefully i can drill this one out as easily...ughhh
now i know what i did, I tried tighing the valve covers with the timing belt specs..
I'm pretty sure that the holes in the cylinders that the tensioner bolts go into are heli-coiled.
Quote from: MrIncredible on February 22, 2010, 03:12:25 PM
So the German value-"Guudendtight" :P
More like "sortatight"
I see you figured it out but here are some torques for an S2R 1K:
Intake/exhaust valve cover screws 10nm
Timing belt idler pulley 20nm
Timing belt tensioner pulley 26nm
Quote from: yotogi on February 23, 2010, 08:06:55 AM
I see you figured it out but here are some torques for an S2R 1K:
Intake/exhaust valve cover screws 10nm
Timing belt idler pulley 20nm
Timing belt tensioner pulley 26nm
I understand the book says that, but in my experience 10nm is a bit much for a 6mm steel screw in an aluminum casting with no helicoil or other insert.
Quote from: Spidey on February 22, 2010, 03:06:58 PM
Personally, I wouldn't worry about the settings at all. Just torque it so it's a bit tight w/o worrying about the numbers. If it weeps, tighten it. It's not like you're torquing down conrods or engine cases or anything. They're just covers.
Gotta agree with Spidey here, I always did mine up to "Bit Tight" or "Nice and Tight" Settings and never had a leak/weep, mind you I always used CA Cycleworks Gaskets as well.
Was always wary of going to hard on the bolts, as Ducpainter said, they are just going into an alloy head, I didn't want to strip/break anything.
Quote from: ducpainter on February 23, 2010, 08:11:45 AM
I understand the book says that, but in my experience 10nm is a bit much for a 6mm steel screw in an aluminum casting with no helicoil or other insert.
And I would certainly defer to your experience. Last time I had mine off it did seem that 10nm was on the too tight side for at least one of the bolts.
Quote from: yotogi on February 24, 2010, 05:25:08 AM
And I would certainly defer to your experience. Last time I had mine off it did seem that 10nm was on the too tight side for at least one of the bolts.
I've always used 6 ft/lbs for that size screw in aluminum. There's a good chart here...http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/M_bolts.html (http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts/M_bolts.html) The limiting factor is the weakest material...being the aluminum head.
I very rarely actually torque that size fastener. Always have gone by feel.
My manual says 3 Nm. which equals 2.21 ft lbs.