Guys,
I am having problems starting my bike. It's a 2006 S2R 800 with 13k miles.
I pressed the engine start button but nothing happened. Not even a sound.
The light and gauge are on so I guess it's not the battery problem?
This happened in friday night but I tried it yesterday it started. Now I'm having it again today..
I also uploaded pictures starting the engine. Hope this helps!
Insert key and turn the ignition on
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs040.snc4/34352_439314480265_632435265_6257839_2281473_n.jpg)
And then after 2 blinks of the immoblizer I stuck with this
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs040.snc4/34352_439314485265_632435265_6257840_5118275_n.jpg)
Check battery voltage. Offhand, I'd say its your battery, but let's diagnose first.
And the lights don't matter-they use less energy than the starter motor.
Quote from: MrIncredible on June 27, 2010, 10:12:22 AM
Check battery voltage. Offhand, I'd say its your battery, but let's diagnose first.
And the lights don't matter-they use less energy than the starter motor.
Would you kindly explain how to check the battery coltage and how to know if it's funtioning properly?
I'm kinda new to the motor world..
to check the battery voltage just apply the volt meter across the 2 leads. it wont damage your voltmeter if you put it on backwards if you have the digital kind, it will just read the voltage going the other way and show negative.
if there are no cheap voltmeters available to you, then just spend the money on the charger, chances are thats your problem. how often do you ride the bike?
I think if its below a certain voltage like 11votls or something, the bike wont even crank over.
Also, it looks like your oil temp sensor is unpluged...
Quote from: He Man on June 27, 2010, 10:31:23 AM
to check the battery voltage just apply the volt meter across the 2 leads. it wont damage your voltmeter if you put it on backwards if you have the digital kind, it will just read the voltage going the other way and show negative.
Thx for reply. Would you explain more about what you mean by putting it on backwards?
By the way, I think the "EOBD light" is on all the time and I just checked my user manaul. It said the light comes on when the engine is locked. So I guess my engine is locked? does this information help?
im getting too into it. connect red to red, black to black and your fine.
That light is normally not on. But i think the battery causes it to go on.
Alright guys. I just checked the battery and it says 12.81 volts.
Any thoughts on this?
Just want to add some more informations about the bike.
I ride it very often. Almost everyday.
Was riding in a pour rain last monday when I was on my way home for about 40 min..
I guess that was somethin had to do with this..?
12.81 volts is normal. You need to make sure the battery is cranking out the right amount of amps to get that starter spinning.
To figure this out you need to perform a load test. How old is ur battery?
have you ever had starting issues before? (spins slowly, or spins a few times befor eit fires up)
You should also try to clean that rubber boot near your starter.
Quote from: He Man on June 27, 2010, 12:36:41 PM
12.81 volts is normal. You need to make sure the battery is cranking out the right amount of amps to get that starter spinning.
To figure this out you need to perform a load test. How old is ur battery?
have you ever had starting issues before? (spins slowly, or spins a few times befor eit fires up)
You should also try to clean that rubber boot near your starter.
The bike just got its 12k service last month so I think the battery shouldn't have any problem?
I never had starting issues before. It always fired up right when I press the starter.
how do I perform a load test?
How can I locate the rubber boot near the starter?
look online for a battery load test or do a search here.
the rubber boot is this one u see here. it connects to the black round thingy. that round thingy is ur starter. aside from cleaning the contacts there, you should also follow that wire up, it goes to a solenoid, clean the contacts there too, and also at the battery.
Does your bike make a click sound when u hit the starter?
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=127&g2_serialNumber=2)
No it doesn't make a click sound when I hit the starter.
By the way,
I really appreciate your help!!
No matter I can solve this problem or not!
Millions of thx!
Quote from: He Man on June 27, 2010, 12:45:16 PM
(http://kuixihe.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=127&g2_serialNumber=2)
In the bottom of HeMans picture is a black wire. Follow that up until you find where it's connected. There is a small white plug right next to that connection. Make sure it's tight.
The connections are tight..I just don't know what's going on..
I took a few more pictures..thought they might help..
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs084.snc4/35564_439432000265_632435265_6262768_4108090_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs084.snc4/35564_439432005265_632435265_6262769_5984261_n.jpg)
What is the immoblizer light doing? Does it blink? Stay on solid? Go out? What position is your kill switch in (we've all done that least once :-[)? Did you turn the ignition off. remove the key and try again? They only give you about 15 seconds to hit the starter button. Since the battery should be at least good enough to get a click out of the solenoid. Pull the connector Dan was talking about. One wire is positive, one is ground. I don't have a wiring diagram in front of me, so I don't knows which is which. There is one in your owner's manual. The positive should show voltage when you hit the starter button with the key on. Let's get that far before disconnecting cables.
Quote from: howie on June 27, 2010, 04:38:58 PM
What is the immoblizer light doing? Does it blink? Stay on solid? Go out? What position is your kill switch in (we've all done that least once :-[)? Did you turn the ignition off. remove the key and try again? They only give you about 15 seconds to hit the starter button. Since the battery should be at least good enough to get a click out of the solenoid. Pull the connector Dan was talking about. One wire is positive, one is ground. I don't have a wiring diagram in front of me, so I don't knows which is which. There is one in your owner's manual. The positive should show voltage when you hit the starter button with the key on. Let's get that far before disconnecting cables.
The immoblizer light stay on solid. The kill switch is off. I did turn the ignition off and try again about 100 times..
When I hit the starter I don't even geet a click sound..
don't know what to do.. :(
If your light is staying on solid, the immobilizer is not recognizing your key. Try another key if you have one. Also check the antenna connection under the bezel around the ignition cylinder. If you have the immobilizer code, try this:
Procedure to override the immobilizer
using the throttle twistgrip
1) Turn the key to ON, fully open the throttle and hold it open.
The EOBD warning light (7, fig. 4.1) goes off after the pre-set
time of 8 seconds.
2) Release the throttle twistgrip as soon as the EOBD light
goes off.
3) The EOBD light flashes. Now enter the electronic release
code shown on the CODE CARD given to the customer
when the motorcycle was handed over by the dealer.
4) Count a number of flashes of the EOBD light equal to
the first number of the secret code.
Open the throttle twistgrip, hold fully open for 2 seconds,
then release it. The digit entered is acknowledged, and the
EOBD light comes on and stays on for the pre-set time of
4 seconds. Repeat the operation until you have entered
the final digit.
If no operation is performed with the throttle, the EOBD
light will flash 20 times and then come on steadily. In this
case, repeat the procedure from step (1).
5) When you release the throttle, if the code was entered
correctly, the EOBD light flashes to indicate that the engine
is unlocked. The EOBD light returns to its normal state (off)
after 4 seconds.
6) If the code has NOT been entered correctly, the EOBD
light remains lit and the procedure can be repeated as
many times as necessary by turning the key to OFF, then
re-starting from step (1).
Notes
If you release the twistgrip too soon, the warning
light comes on again. Return the ignition key to OFF and
repeat the procedure from step (1
Quote from: howie on June 27, 2010, 05:35:08 PM
If your light is staying on solid, the immobilizer is not recognizing your key. Try another key if you have one. Also check the antenna connection under the bezel around the ignition cylinder. If you have the immobilizer code, try this:
I tried the other key still didn't work.
Actually I should describe with more details.
After inserting the key and turn it to on. The immobilizer blinks twice and then stays on solid..
Any thought about this?
Immobilizer problem. Do you have the code, or is there someone home who could get it to you? A loose connection at at the antenna is all I can think of as a quick possibility. It is a plastic coated coil with a pig tail that connects it to the wiring harness. Check that connection.
Quote from: howie on June 27, 2010, 05:59:11 PM
Immobilizer problem. Do you have the code, or is there someone home who could get it to you? A loose connection at at the antenna is all I can think of as a quick possibility. It is a plastic coated coil with a pig tail that connects it to the wiring harness. Check that connection.
No I don't have the code..I bought it from a member of this forum.
Actualy it's kinda hard to tell where and what the harness is by just reading the describtion..
Would you kindly give me a photo of where and how it looks like? Really appreciate all the help guys!!
the attenna is located on the black cap that surrounds the keyhole. Remove the 2 socket caps and you will find a wire hidden underneath it.
I find this a bit odd... on a friends GT1000, the immobilizer light was lite up the whole time and would not start. I kept thinking it was an issue with the key since the bike started before he purchased it. I dont know what would case the bike to lock you out, but in the end, just as a trouble shoot to make sure the battery wasnt toasted, i swapped my monster battery onto his GT, and the light went away and started right up. However putting his GT battery on my monster yeilded a solid immobilzer light as well and the bike would not turn over.
If u have a charger, id charge the battery over night and check it out tomorrow morning. Maybe you left it on PARK for a while and didnt notice it and ended up killing your battery.
Quote from: He Man on June 27, 2010, 07:57:42 PM
the attenna is located on the black cap that surrounds the keyhole. Remove the 2 socket caps and you will find a wire hidden underneath it.
I find this a bit odd... on a friends GT1000, the immobilizer light was lite up the whole time and would not start. I kept thinking it was an issue with the key since the bike started before he purchased it. I dont know what would case the bike to lock you out, but in the end, just as a trouble shoot to make sure the battery wasnt toasted, i swapped my monster battery onto his GT, and the light went away and started right up. However putting his GT battery on my monster yeilded a solid immobilzer light as well and the bike would not turn over.
If u have a charger, id charge the battery over night and check it out tomorrow morning. Maybe you left it on PARK for a while and didnt notice it and ended up killing your battery.
Thx for the tips. I'll try to borrow a battery charger and will post result.
A weak enough battery could cause this. Or you could jump it off another battery. A car battery will work, just don't run the car. If your battery reads 12.8 volts and is the cause charging won't help much.
Quote from: howie on June 28, 2010, 03:40:07 AM
A weak enough battery could cause this. Or you could jump it off another battery. A car battery will work, just don't run the car. If your battery reads 12.8 volts and is the cause charging won't help much.
So do I have to take the battery out from a car and replace it to see if it works?
Alright guys! I think I'm almost sure it's the immobilizer problem.
I just used the other key again and the light went off and start up right when I press the starter.
And I turned it off. Try again, light came up again and nothing happens when I press the starter.
I tried many times with both of my keys back and forth and it wouldn't start again.
So it should be the attenna problem?
which key did u use, both OEM black keys? or the red key? if there is no "bad" key, then the attenna might just be loose, or the wire is barely making a connection.
I only have 2 black keys and I can't be sure if they are OEM since I bought the bike from a private seller.
I just checked the connection of the antenna and it seems not loosen at all.. I also disconnect and reconnect the harness that the wire of antenna connects to..
now I'm lost again.. :(
Can you get hold of the original seller? They may have the code written down somewhere. You could try just replacing the antenna, but, obviously, that is a gamble. Also, post up in your local board, someone there may be able to help out.
Definately not the battery. It would at least make a click when you pushed the button. I once had a similar problem, turned out the connector from my starter switch to the harness was loose. So I would follow the wires from the starter to where they plug into the bike, and unplug then replug them back in.
Of course my bike didn't have an immobalizer, which (to me) sounds like the real problem. try putting one key right next to the antenna, while using the other key to turn to on, then try starter switch. If that works, then almost surely its a bad antenna. Good luck
Ok..I'm pretty sure the problem is the bike won't recognize my key.
I tried with both of my keys many and many times. Sometimes the bike got it and the immobilizer light went off and I can start the bike with no problem. Most of the chances the immobilizer light was just on forever(Also the EOBD light).
I tried to apply both keys at the same time. One in the keyhole, the other pointing at the antenna but I'm not sure if I did it right. This didn't work though.
I thought I should post up some photos about how I did it. Maybe I missed something..
(http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs047.snc3/13470_439734520265_632435265_6272583_1952366_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs067.snc3/13470_439734525265_632435265_6272584_7873688_n.jpg)
Id replace the wire and see if that helps. If your okay with it, cut the wire toward the sensor end, test the rest of it for continuity, this will tell u if there is a break in the wire. If there isnt, maybe the antenna is broken. theres a guy on ebay
try this guy on ebay
http://myworld.ebay.com/pinwall_cycle_parts (http://myworld.ebay.com/pinwall_cycle_parts)
hes got a large selection of monster parts for sale on the cheap.
Quote from: He Man on June 28, 2010, 12:07:41 PM
Id replace the wire and see if that helps. If your okay with it, cut the wire toward the sensor end, test the rest of it for continuity, this will tell u if there is a break in the wire. If there isnt, maybe the antenna is broken. theres a guy on ebay
try this guy on ebay
http://myworld.ebay.com/pinwall_cycle_parts (http://myworld.ebay.com/pinwall_cycle_parts)
hes got a large selection of monster parts for sale on the cheap.
You mean cut the wire toward the sensor end and solder it back on?
No idea about a spec, but it is a coil so it should read between 0 and infinity ohms, probably close to 0. If so the wire is good, though there could be an internal short in the winding, which would show up as a lower than normal resistance. Of course, since we don't know what normal is at this point that is not much of a help, but that beats cutting wires on expensive and maybe difficult to find parts. Someone with a factory scan tool can probably get to the problem quickly and may cost a lot less than random replacement of components. Another option is send the computer out to get the immobilizer defeated, not cheap, but it does eliminate a common problem.
This is being so frustrating..On one hand if I bring it in it may cost too much for me..
On the other hand it looks like to be impossible to fix without the profession and special tools..?
Anyone in NY area willing to help..?
hows the wire itself look? is it being tugged on by anything? Perhaps one of the connectors are just loose, which could explain it randomly working sometimes with either key.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DUCATI-749-999-MONSTER-KEY-IGNITION-ANTENNA-GUARD-TRIM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad3ec5759QQitemZ390102538073QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DUCATI-749-999-MONSTER-KEY-IGNITION-ANTENNA-GUARD-TRIM-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad3ec5759QQitemZ390102538073QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
The pro to bringing it to a shop is to atleast know what exact is wrong.
where are u in NY exactly? ECS is a great shop if ur in the southern part of new york.
Thx for the link! I'm located in Queens area.
ECS is about 75miles north. not sure if you would feel comfortable wiggling until you get your bike started and riding up there without stopping the engine.
Thats about the only indepedent shop that wont rape you in the butt (85/hr) cost wise and are really cool people to deal with and if you call ahead they could squeeze you in so your in and out.
Im in brooklyn, but i cant do much for you aside from trouble shooting the antenna cable by swapping yours with mine, atleast that way you know for sure if its the antenna or not but i dont know how your schedule works. Mine is getting pretty hectic right now.
Other then that, im all out of ideas. howie might have some more for you though.
Sigh..now i wish it were just the battery problem so badly.........
I think you should try starting off another battery if you haven't already. It is most likely not the issue, but it's cheap, easy and better to cross off the list before any other expense. After that maybe ask a shop to diagnose and go from there.
Make use of He Man's offer, it's a quick swap and if that works, a new part and you are back on the road.
Don't go to ECS because they only charge $85 an hour. Go there because they are incredibly good [thumbsup].
Quote from: He Man on June 28, 2010, 03:14:20 PM
ECS is about 75miles north. not sure if you would feel comfortable wiggling until you get your bike started and riding up there without stopping the engine.
Thats about the only indepedent shop that wont rape you in the butt (85/hr) cost wise and are really cool people to deal with and if you call ahead they could squeeze you in so your in and out.
Im in brooklyn, but i cant do much for you aside from trouble shooting the antenna cable by swapping yours with mine, atleast that way you know for sure if its the antenna or not but i dont know how your schedule works. Mine is getting pretty hectic right now.
Other then that, im all out of ideas. howie might have some more for you though.
He man thx for all the helps! [thumbsup] Really should buy you a beer. And I will if I have a chance.
Anyways, I have to be away from thursday until next week and I'll swap the thing with my friend who rides a GT1000 and will report back to you guys how it goes..Let's just pray it's a easy and cheap fix..Otherwise I will have to starve for a few days..LOL
Quote from: He Man on June 27, 2010, 07:57:42 PM
the attenna is located on the black cap that surrounds the keyhole. Remove the 2 socket caps and you will find a wire hidden underneath it.
I find this a bit odd... on a friends GT1000, the immobilizer light was lite up the whole time and would not start. I kept thinking it was an issue with the key since the bike started before he purchased it. I dont know what would case the bike to lock you out, but in the end, just as a trouble shoot to make sure the battery wasnt toasted, i swapped my monster battery onto his GT, and the light went away and started right up. However putting his GT battery on my monster yeilded a solid immobilzer light as well and the bike would not turn over.
If u have a charger, id charge the battery over night and check it out tomorrow morning. Maybe you left it on PARK for a while and didnt notice it and ended up killing your battery.
That would be me , however tho, during the course of trouble shooting, the click sound exists through out all the tries.
It's just that the bike does not light up! I dont know based on his scenario, if it's the same issue with the battery.
would it be the rectifier problem?
LOL..man..I thought you should be in LA and have no access to computer.
Anyways..I'm kinda screwed at this point.....
My girlfriend is coming tomorrow night staying for 2 months and my bike is dead..
what a life.. [bang]
when was the bike out in the pouring rain again?
My 2002 620 or 900 always had this problem after the bike got heavily rained on.
Try taking the gauges off and bringing them indoors to dry out thoroughly. I know this doesn't sound high-tech... but it's the only thing that worked for me at the time.
Since then I've had my bike re-wired to run with a 2001 pre-immobilizer ECU.
FYI I'm also in NYC.
Slightly off topic:
Does anyone, anywhere have a story where the immobilizer actually saved their bike from being stolen?
Personally, I'd pay the $250 to get the ECU reflashed and eliminate the immobilizer. While it might be the other issues (antenna, water) there's no guarantee those fixes will work, and the problem won't happen again.
Whereas the ECU reflash will work and the problem won't be back.
The blinking light and disc lock alarm makes ppl think i have some crazy security system on it, and i park in the projects all the time. I dont have a steering tube lock anymore either. so maybe it does.
Quote from: Drunken Monkey on July 02, 2010, 07:34:31 AM
Slightly off topic:
Does anyone, anywhere have a story where the immobilizer actually saved their bike from being stolen?
Personally, I'd pay the $250 to get the ECU reflashed and eliminate the immobilizer. While it might be the other issues (antenna, water) there's no guarantee those fixes will work, and the problem won't happen again.
Whereas the ECU reflash will work and the problem won't be back.
Hard to say, if anyone saw a person messing with their bike they probably wouldn't wait to see if they got stumped by the immobilizer. I would guess no though, the typical bike thefts I know of they toss your bike in a truck and strip it later.
Had a similar problem once. My bike wouldn't turn over at all so my friend said it's the battery buy a new one so I did and still nothing. So I decided to look online and it said to follow the battery cables down to the starter relay which didn't have that white plug in. So I pushed the plug in and it started but then the negative on my battery started smoking which was because the starter relay was touching metal.
You could put a screw driver across the relay to start the bike and if it starts the relay is shorted out (make sure you're not in gear or the bike will take off)
Here is what the starter relay looks like. The two bottom things is where the white plug should go. To start the bike with a screw driver, remove the plastic on the black wires and touch a screw driver from one bolt to the other. Be careful a small spark will happen. Easy way to test the relay is bad or good.
(http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq161/TrevOwnz89/IMG_0054.jpg)
Ok people! Back to town! Gotta figure this out..
I'm gonna try swap attenna from a friend's GT 1000.
Is there anything I need to be aware of?
I think I need to disconnect the wires in order to take the attenna off from the bike right?
Will it trigger the immobilizer and lock my friend's bike up?
Just wanna be more carefull. I don't wanna screw my friend's bike ???
Quote from: TrevOwnz on July 04, 2010, 01:05:05 PM
Had a similar problem once. My bike wouldn't turn over at all so my friend said it's the battery buy a new one so I did and still nothing. So I decided to look online and it said to follow the battery cables down to the starter relay which didn't have that white plug in. So I pushed the plug in and it started but then the negative on my battery started smoking which was because the starter relay was touching metal.
You could put a screw driver across the relay to start the bike and if it starts the relay is shorted out (make sure you're not in gear or the bike will take off)
Here is what the starter relay looks like. The two bottom things is where the white plug should go. To start the bike with a screw driver, remove the plastic on the black wires and touch a screw driver from one bolt to the other. Be careful a small spark will happen. Easy way to test the relay is bad or good.
(http://i444.photobucket.com/albums/qq161/TrevOwnz89/IMG_0054.jpg)
I'll also try this tomorrow and report what happens! Thx!
according to the person, the bike starts again.
he just left the bike there for a few days, and the 100 degree
NYC sun has cured the disease
there must me some water deposit in one of the electrical compartments
well. lucky him. but still not sure what the problem was.