Ducati Monster Forum

Hello,

Just thought I'd share my most recent mod.  A gorgeous pair of BellissiMoto rearsets!

The pics aren't the best because I took them with my phone but I'll get some better ones up soon.

I feel I should also mention that their customer service is quick and top notch!

(http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo315/NYTypeS/IMAG0351.jpg)

(http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo315/NYTypeS/IMAG0350.jpg)

(http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo315/NYTypeS/IMAG0349.jpg)

(http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo315/NYTypeS/IMAG0348.jpg)

(http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo315/NYTypeS/IMAG0347.jpg)

Bellisimoto's page has several rearset manufacturers... which ones are those?

Ducabike, I just bought a pair, and I hope they look as good on my bike as they do your bike GoTeamV  ;D

Thanks!

Once you've got them on, can you post how they compare with the stock peg position?

Also, would they work with hi-mount pipes?

thx in advance.

those are high mount pipes. (so yes, they work with highmount pipes) - What I do not see is low-pipe hangers listed.

DucaBike or DP. Those ones are DucaBike, but the machine pattern for the two is basically the same

http://www.bellissimoto.com/DucaBikeMonsterRearsets.html (http://www.bellissimoto.com/DucaBikeMonsterRearsets.html)

They are about an inch higher than stock at their lowest adjustment...they rotate up so they have about 1/2" adjustment up.

Same general design for the hanger part as AG Hammer and Style & Performance (Those have low mount hangers available also).

Note that these "hang" from the frame, unlike the stock DSS Monsters rearsets, which have a second mount at the engine sump. I don't know if this was a conscious effort to strengthen or make more rigid the frame (since these bikes lack the additional frame mount at the swingarm) or not.

The stock rearsets also "bulge" out laterally - Giving you more of a cowboy-on-a-horse stance, than a bicycle stance. These 'hanging' style rearsets - which drop straight down from the frame also make the bike narrow in that aspect.

Rizoma's rearsets mimic the stock rearsets in both the lateral 'bulge' as well as in the lower mount, but of course with adjustability and clean looks.

That's what I've gathered over the years

Derp!  Why yes... yes they are.

I'm not too worried about the width of the legs, but pulling my legs dramatically upward would concern me. I think I can deal with an inch or so.

As for the Rizoma's dual mount - I like that system much more, but I'm not too keen on the $300 difference...

No but they work very well.

However,

If you read the details about the Rizoma rearsets, they specify that they are for 2000+ Monsters. The only difference I could find between the 1999 and the 2000 M900 (frame didn't change) was the switch to the newer style sidestand mount. I updated mine and ordered up and had no problem fitting them to my M900.

And, I believe Rizoma sells some folding pegs for the Monster rearsets. (Not for the sbk rearsets though iirc)

Any concerns about melting your boots?

if your heel is in contact with the 'up' pipes, you are going to want to do one of two things: ceramic coat or wrap those pipes, or put a universal exhaust guard on there (look in the carbon section of Motowheels and you'll find 'em)

or, do both for good measure. I like my A* too much to let them get all melty.

Thank you for posting some installed pictures of these, and I'm glad you like our service, we really do try so it's always nice to know our effort is appreciated.

If there is anything else we can do for you guys, don't hesitate to ask.

- BellissiMoto

one of the local guys is installing these today - what did you do for your rear brake light switch?   He's on the other side of DFW, so I haven't gotten a chance to run over there just yet.

thank j!

i have a 07 695 and cant figure out what to do with the damn stoplight switch. on the factory rearsets it screws into a hole then the bolt presses against it turning it off and when not pressed against it it comes on.

You'll need to run a banjo pressure switch unless you devise your own mounting method for the OEM switch assembly. For $20 though the banjo pressure switch might be less hassle. The mechanical switch works better than the pressure switch, but it is a rear brake light trigger so it probably doesn't matter much as you should have the front brake on during braking so the tail light wold be on anyhow.

The pressure switch that I have works perfectly (K&L), but I'm sure it necessitates a well bled system. Take the opportunity to change and bleed the system, and then instal some speedbleeders.

I've used K&L, Spiegler, etc... they all work and activate the light, but we tested it back to back with a microswitch and the pressure switch activated the light much later. Slightly dragging the rear wouldn't turn the light on, you'd have to be stepping on the pedal to trigger it. With the microswitch that isn't an issue as you can can adjust the contact point.

Also we've had customers that the pressure switches have failed on. Never an accident because of it, but not good when it is on the front master and you only use your front brake!

Went with banjo bolt switch! Thanks for the help!

Prob now is the rear brake lever doesnt return. Bleed brakes at caliper and at master but neither fixed issue.

Isn't there a spring retained from the original rearsets that keeps pressure on the back of the lever from where the plunger goes into the master cylinder?

If not, you may wish to get one and see if that solves your problem.


Also, anyone who needs the banjo bolt pressure switches, can get them here - http://bellissimoto.com/Banjobolts.html (http://bellissimoto.com/Banjobolts.html)

Unlikely - the OEM rearset spring is round - goes around OEM rearset's lever pivot bolt and affixes to both the lever (on one end) and a notch in the backside of the rearset.

The Brembo plunger, however, does not attach to anything on the "piston" end. It can only "push" - it cannot pull the piston back - if the lever can move back up by hand and the rear brake is sticking - its unrelated to the plunger.   

I've seen where people have removed the lever return springs because it moves the plunger's end away from the piston, so the first motion when pushing on the rear brake pedal would be take up the 'slack' or deadspace - you'd have to move the pedal down until the plunger gets to the piston before any brake action could occur. It was wasted movement.

The counter-worry would be that without a return spring, the pedal will continue to push on the piston and apply the rear brake.   The real worry is not that the spring won't move it off the piston, but that the lever doesn't have enough upward free play to move upwards and get out of the way of the piston's additional retraction when the fluid gets hot and expands.

I've used the pressure switch on my front GP master for years, so I've certainly grown faith in those.