How long can a span of 11/4" CeaserStone (engineered stone) can you run without support in the center?
Thanks
generally I wouldn't spread more that 16'' between supports...but this is in general and all your call as I have no firsthand with that product.
According to the company (http://media.caesarstoneus.com/pdf/CS_TDM_0511.pdf (http://media.caesarstoneus.com/pdf/CS_TDM_0511.pdf)):
QuoteInstallation over Countertops
Caesarstone must be supported on a strong perimeter frame or on a full deck support of plywood that will keep it flat within ¹â,,16â€
(1.6mm) per 18†(3000mm) and support the countertop weight for the useful life of the top.
• Front-to-back support within the cabinet should be provided every 24â€. Plan for front-to-back support strips 2.5â€-wide
(40mmâ€"100mm) to coincide with cutouts and periodic support. Support must be provided under all countertop joints.
• The use of ¾†material requires the use of a minimum ³â,,8†thick plywood sub top if the edge detail is 1¼†or greater.
Some types of cabinets may require the use of ¾†plywood for European-style frames and supports.
• Leave ¹â,,8†(3mm) minimum clearance between the plywood and built-up edges.
NOTE: Support is required across the top of a dishwasher space and over an under-counter oven.
So, i'd say every 24"
What type of activities will occur on said counter? [thumbsup]
Quote from: YellowDuck on July 08, 2011, 01:50:43 PM
What type of activities will occur on said counter? [thumbsup]
Squirrel chopping.
Quote from: Punx Clever on July 08, 2011, 01:49:28 PM
Quote
Installation over Countertops
Caesarstone must be supported on a strong perimeter frame or on a full deck support of plywood that will keep it flat within ¹â,,16â€
(1.6mm) per 18†(3000mm) and support the countertop weight for the useful life of the top.
• Front-to-back support within the cabinet should be provided every 24â€. Plan for front-to-back support strips 2.5â€-wide
(40mmâ€"100mm) to coincide with cutouts and periodic support. Support must be provided under all countertop joints.
• The use of ¾†material requires the use of a minimum ³â,,8†thick plywood sub top if the edge detail is 1¼†or greater.
Some types of cabinets may require the use of ¾†plywood for European-style frames and supports.
• Leave ¹â,,8†(3mm) minimum clearance between the plywood and built-up edges.
NOTE:[Support is required across the top of a dishwasher space and over an under-counter oven.
typical dishwasher space is 24", just to add a little ambiguity to their requiremnts
We typically install a cleat along the back wall behind a DW. Usually steel or 3/4" plywood to give it something to rest on. I little bit of overkill but cheap insurance.
Thanks to all. So my suspicions are true, unsupported it can crack like granite or marble. I will post a photo with measurements and maybe we can come up with a fix. So much for the "professional" who did the design work.
Quote from: alfisti on July 08, 2011, 02:08:46 PM
Squirrel chopping.
Squirrel chopping will be performed on the other side of the kitchen.
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm276/hlep2890/010.jpg)
From the left the opening is 28" to the center of the support (1/2" plywood) and 20.5" from the support to the right. The height is 35.5"
I was thinking of a couple of ideas:
One is 5/8 ply under the CeaserStone. Why 5/8? Because I have matching molding to cover the plywood.
The other is have the fabricators bond metal to the CeaserStone, and maybe a 1 by 4 on the wall on the 28" span for additional support.
Opinions?
Install 1x cleats along the back wall on either side of the center support. Any way to beef up the 1/2" center support? Maybe double it up? Maybe lock it in with vertical cleats leading to the baseboard? I see that center support as the weak link.
Quote from: rgramjet on July 09, 2011, 02:11:20 PM
Install 1x cleats along the back wall on either side of the center support. Any way to beef up the 1/2" center support? Maybe double it up? Maybe lock it in with vertical cleats leading to the baseboard? I see that center support as the weak link.
So, i guess my ideas aren't so hot.
Doubling it up won't work for me, vertical cleats are a possibility. Do they need to be cleats or would two vertical boards accomplish the same thing?
PM sent
Use the 5/8 ply to lock in the top of the panel, drill a couple of pins into the tile to lock in the bottom.
If you have a problem with carpentry, medicine, marriage or anything else, just ask the DMF [beer]
I spoke with the contractor and everything is worked out, metal supports in the rear and wood on the bottom, anchored to the floor. All your input was most valuable in the solution. Thank you ;D
Any finished pics?
Didn't wanna statrt a new thread. Can't find thread and forgot who it was that makes his own forms for concrete tops (making a bar/island) and need some advice..
Quote from: cokey on September 04, 2011, 07:05:02 AM
Any finished pics?
Didn't wanna statrt a new thread. Can't find thread and forgot who it was that makes his own forms for concrete tops (making a bar/island) and need some advice..
Not yet, a pot rack still has to go up and other small finishing touches. Your local, you can see the real thing!
Quote from: cokey on September 04, 2011, 07:05:02 AM
Any finished pics?
Didn't wanna statrt a new thread. Can't find thread and forgot who it was that makes his own forms for concrete tops (making a bar/island) and need some advice..
That would be DucNaked
Quote from: cokey on September 04, 2011, 07:05:02 AM
Any finished pics?
Didn't wanna statrt a new thread. Can't find thread and forgot who it was that makes his own forms for concrete tops (making a bar/island) and need some advice..
Here is a bar top I did a while back. What is it you want to know?
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2388/2415913362_7482c55928_z.jpg?zz=1)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2136/2415913380_8bf3c7ea3b_z.jpg?zz=1)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2135/2415913376_49c8a2c927_z.jpg?zz=1)
^^^ very nice!
Sorry Vin...I didn't know you did that too.
Here is DN's thread...http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=44633.msg803742#msg803742 (http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=44633.msg803742#msg803742)
How to make form to make the concrete smooth like that? Should I put some type of metel mesh, or something, inside for strenght? how thick, 2"? Should there be a top coat of sometype (guessing that's optional)? And which type of concret (materials) not sure if I should use regular or a certain mixter..
Its gonna be 72" long and maybe 12" wide or more (haven't decided).. was thinking of making it in 2 parts for moving purposes (renting)... it'll be seperating kitchen n living room (one big room) and be used a lot for breakfast and of the sort..
Quote from: ducpainter on September 05, 2011, 03:02:13 PM
Sorry Vin...I didn't know you did that too.
No worries, it feels like a lifetime ago anyway. Haven't gotten my hands dirty in a while.
Quote from: cokey on September 05, 2011, 03:02:50 PM
How to make form to make the concrete smooth like that? Should I put some type of metel mesh, or something, inside for strenght? how thick, 2"? Should there be a top coat of sometype (guessing that's optional)? And which type of concret (materials) not sure if I should use regular or a certain mixter..
Its gonna be 72" long and maybe 12" wide or more (haven't decided).. was thinking of making it in 2 parts for moving purposes (renting)... it'll be seperating kitchen n living room (one big room) and be used a lot for breakfast and of the sort..
How are your carpentry skills? Building the forms is the hardest part in my opinion. The forms have to be spot on if you want your tops to look nice. They are also pretty messy to pour if you don't have a workshop or outside work space.
I always put rebar around the perim. and mesh on the inside. You want to use plasticizer and polypropylene fibers to reinforce the concrete.
You can pull off 1.5" tops if you want, but it won't cantilever as far as the 2".
Some of the DIY tops I have seen are hit or miss. They can look like beautiful concrete counter tops, or a patio slab.
Yea that's the problem, work space.. I have none.. come from a family of carpenters, rusty but we'll see..