Kitchen counter

Started by Howie, July 08, 2011, 01:39:13 PM

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Howie

How long can a span of 11/4" CeaserStone (engineered stone) can you run without support in the center?

Thanks

zooom

generally I wouldn't spread more that 16'' between supports...but this is in general and all your call as I have no firsthand with that product.
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Punx Clever

According to the company ( ):

QuoteInstallation over Countertops
Caesarstone must be supported on a strong perimeter frame or on a full deck support of plywood that will keep it flat within ¹â,,16”
(1.6mm) per 18” (3000mm) and support the countertop weight for the useful life of the top.
•    Front-to-back support within the cabinet should be provided every 24”. Plan for front-to-back support strips 2.5”-wide
(40mmâ€"100mm) to coincide with cutouts and periodic support. Support must be provided under all countertop joints.

•    The use of ¾” material requires the use of a minimum ³â,,8” thick plywood sub top if the edge detail is 1¼” or greater.
Some types of cabinets may require the use of ¾” plywood for European-style frames and supports.
•    Leave ¹â,,8” (3mm) minimum clearance between the plywood and built-up edges.
NOTE: Support is required across the top of a dishwasher space and over an under-counter oven.

So, i'd say every 24"
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YellowDuck

What type of activities will occur on said counter? [thumbsup]

Oldfisti

Quote from: YellowDuck on July 08, 2011, 01:50:43 PM
What type of activities will occur on said counter? [thumbsup]


Squirrel chopping.
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Ddan

#5
Quote from: Punx Clever on July 08, 2011, 01:49:28 PM
Quote
Installation over Countertops
Caesarstone must be supported on a strong perimeter frame or on a full deck support of plywood that will keep it flat within ¹â,,16”
(1.6mm) per 18” (3000mm) and support the countertop weight for the useful life of the top.
•    Front-to-back support within the cabinet should be provided every 24”. Plan for front-to-back support strips 2.5”-wide
(40mmâ€"100mm) to coincide with cutouts and periodic support. Support must be provided under all countertop joints.
•    The use of ¾” material requires the use of a minimum ³â,,8” thick plywood sub top if the edge detail is 1¼” or greater.
Some types of cabinets may require the use of ¾” plywood for European-style frames and supports.
•    Leave ¹â,,8” (3mm) minimum clearance between the plywood and built-up edges.
NOTE:[Support is required across the top of a dishwasher space and over an under-counter oven.

typical dishwasher space is 24", just to add a little ambiguity to their requiremnts
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rgramjet

We typically install a cleat along the back wall behind a DW.  Usually steel or 3/4" plywood to give it something to rest on.  I little bit of overkill but cheap insurance.
Quote from: ducpainter on May 20, 2010, 02:11:47 PM
You're obviously a crack smokin' redneck carpenter. :-*

in 1st and 2nd it was like this; ringy-ting-ting-ting slow boring ho-hum .......oh!........OMG! What the fu.........HOLY SHIT !!--ARGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
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What has been smelled, cannot be unsmelled!

Howie

Thanks to all.  So my suspicions are true, unsupported it can crack like granite or marble.  I will post a photo with measurements and maybe we can come up with a fix.  So much for the "professional" who did the design work.

Quote from: alfisti on July 08, 2011, 02:08:46 PM

Squirrel chopping.

Squirrel chopping will be performed on the other side of the kitchen.

Howie



From the left the opening is 28" to the center of the support (1/2" plywood) and 20.5" from the support to the right.  The height is 35.5"

I was thinking of a couple of ideas:
  One is 5/8 ply under the CeaserStone.  Why 5/8?  Because I have matching molding to cover the plywood.

  The other is have the fabricators bond metal to the CeaserStone, and maybe a 1 by 4 on the wall on the 28" span for additional support.

Opinions?

rgramjet

Install 1x cleats along the back wall on either side of the center support.  Any way to beef up the 1/2" center support?  Maybe double it up?  Maybe lock it in with vertical cleats leading to the baseboard?  I see that center support as the weak link.
Quote from: ducpainter on May 20, 2010, 02:11:47 PM
You're obviously a crack smokin' redneck carpenter. :-*

in 1st and 2nd it was like this; ringy-ting-ting-ting slow boring ho-hum .......oh!........OMG! What the fu.........HOLY SHIT !!--ARGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
-Sofadriver

What has been smelled, cannot be unsmelled!

Howie

Quote from: rgramjet on July 09, 2011, 02:11:20 PM
Install 1x cleats along the back wall on either side of the center support.  Any way to beef up the 1/2" center support?  Maybe double it up?  Maybe lock it in with vertical cleats leading to the baseboard?  I see that center support as the weak link.

So, i guess my ideas aren't so hot.

Doubling it up won't work for me, vertical cleats are a possibility.  Do they need to be cleats or would two vertical boards accomplish the same thing?

rgramjet

Quote from: ducpainter on May 20, 2010, 02:11:47 PM
You're obviously a crack smokin' redneck carpenter. :-*

in 1st and 2nd it was like this; ringy-ting-ting-ting slow boring ho-hum .......oh!........OMG! What the fu.........HOLY SHIT !!--ARGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
-Sofadriver

What has been smelled, cannot be unsmelled!

Ddan

Use the 5/8 ply to lock in the top of the panel, drill a couple of pins into the tile to lock in the bottom. 
2000 Monster 900Sie, a few changes
1992 900 SS, currently a pile of parts.  Now running
                    flogged successfully  NHMS  12 customized.  Twice.   T3 too.   Now retired.

Ducati Monster Forum at
www.ducatimonsterforum.org

Howie

If you have a problem with carpentry, medicine, marriage or anything else, just ask the DMF [beer]

I spoke with the contractor and everything is worked out, metal supports in the rear and wood on the bottom, anchored to the floor.  All your input was most valuable in the solution.  Thank you ;D


cokey

Any finished pics?

Didn't wanna statrt a new thread. Can't find thread and forgot who it was that makes his own forms for concrete tops (making a bar/island) and need some advice..
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