Ok, lets start the story where I believe the problem started. Moved to DC, injured/no tools and super busy.. so I decided to let a local duc dealership do a quick service on the bike, including changing the oil (2-3 weeks ago). Since then and especially over the last couple days I have been noticing that the transmission was getting a little rough and miss gears more than it should (espcially between 1 and 2). Also noticed a clicking noise that I could localize to either the chain, sprockets, the front wheel or the rear about 2 days ago. Decided to take it back and stopped for a quick errand along the way and came back to move the bike and it turned over and I gave it some gas and it moved and then sputtered (felt like the engine just decided to quit and came to a standstill). Tried to get it started again and same result. pulled it over to the side of the road and took a look around.
Checked both sight glasses on both sides of the bike. The one on the clutch housing --- less than halfway up (really low). and on the other side i couldnt even see any oil. Any thoughts on how a properly (assuming) filled oil system can loose that much in just a few days? It ran fine when I got it out of the house this morning and oil levels looked ok to me (check less often that I should).
The one on the left side is not there to check oil.
You have to hold your bike upright, balanced, wheel straight, to check the oil.
Quote from: stopintime on July 27, 2011, 12:00:39 PM
The one on the left side is not there to check oil.
You have to hold your bike upright, balanced, wheel straight, to check the oil.
Bike was upright etc when I checked. Barely visible. But when bike is upright I should still be able to see some oil in the sight glass on the left no?
Quote from: deepak8612 on July 27, 2011, 12:19:28 PM
Bike was upright etc when I checked. Barely visible. But when bike is upright I should still be able to see some oil in the sight glass on the left no?
Maybe, I don't have that glass, but it's to determine a position of a gear reg ignition or valves (I think)
It's easy to fill what seems to be the correct quantity of oil, only to discover that it needs more after a ride.
Fill it up and check again regularly.
Your other issues need some loking after, I would think....
I only have one sight glass that I know of(I have a 696 btw). And I can always see oil in there. FYI, you should post in the CAM section and maybe someone can give you a hand. Welcome to the area and sorry for your bad luck.
Quote from: deepak8612 on July 27, 2011, 12:19:28 PM
Bike was upright etc when I checked. Barely visible. But when bike is upright I should still be able to see some oil in the sight glass on the left no?
The sight glass on the left side should not show any oil - save for occasional splash when the engine is running. As mentioned, it is *only* for viewing timing marks.
The one low on the right, below the filler port, is for taking the oil level.
When checking, make sure you're on as level ground as possible. Fore-aft tilt can effect the reading. Acceptable levels are between the two marks on the case, just to the right of the sight glass. Where's the level right now?
Quote from: deepak8612 on July 27, 2011, 12:19:28 PM
Bike was upright etc when I checked. Barely visible. But when bike is upright I should still be able to see some oil in the sight glass on the left no?
No. That sight glass is for timing, not oil level. If you see oil in that glass the bike is really overfull. If you see oil in the glass on the right side it is not low enough to cause damage. Add until it is between the lines. It will be less than a quart.
DC, eh? Which dealership.
Quote from: Scissors on July 28, 2011, 05:14:03 AM
DC, eh? Which dealership.
he said he is taking it back to Colemans which is where he had it serviced last recently...
So, I went back and re read the original post. I'm having doubts that it's got anything to do with oil - or at least not directly. From what you describe, the hard shifting and trouble starting I'm wondering that if you're not having a clutch issue.
When was the last time the clutch system was flushed with new fluid?
Quote from: Sad Panda on July 28, 2011, 05:20:43 AM
So, I went back and re read the original post. I'm having doubts that it's got anything to do with oil - or at least not directly. From what you describe, the hard shifting and trouble starting I'm wondering that if you're not having a clutch issue.
When was the last time the clutch system was flushed with new fluid?
Good point. It has been a while. Probably about 2 years ago. I have been meaning to get around to both that and the brake systems this year.
Mmmhmmm
The hard shifts, trouble finding neutral, not being able to 100% disengage the clutch etc are the common signs of a clutch system in need of a bleeding or one that has a leak. Flushing the clutch is a quick easy job - I'd knock that out, top the oil to an appropriate level and see how she is.
I know it's hard not to give a give a stern look at a shop when trouble occur so soon after having work done - but some times coincidences are just that.
I hear you. Figured its worth having them atleast take a look at it so see if they F'd up and if it really is the clutch system --- might as well get a vac bleeder and get to work on it this weekend. Prob do that brake system while Im at it as well (def needs a bleed if not a flush)
Also been meaning to clean the rotors and maybe replace the front brake pads. So maybe it is time to get to work. Might have to see if some DC area folks might be wiling to lend a hand/advice/tools in return for beers and pizza
Quote from: zooom on July 28, 2011, 05:19:15 AM
he said he is taking it back to Colemans which is where he had it serviced last recently...
Would liked to have taken it out to DucPond in winchester if I had had the time, but work/starting a business has been making crazy demands of my time lately
Quote from: deepak8612 on July 28, 2011, 06:45:06 AM
Also been meaning to clean the rotors and maybe replace the front brake pads. So maybe it is time to get to work. Might have to see if some DC area folks might be wiling to lend a hand/advice/tools in return for beers and pizza
There's plenty of us helpful sorts in DC.
Post up in CAM
OK.. got a call from coleman (actually i had to chase them down). The following is their diagnosis:
1. Nothing wrong with oil level (of course) -- but i think they may have topped it off because im dead sure it was low.
2. Battery not holding a charge and needs to be replaced (thought this might be the case)
3. Charging system (ie: stator etc is fine) -- good news
4. Bike, when it warms up, idles at 900rpm which apparenly is low (???) and can not sustain enough amperage to charge the battery and hence the battery issues. This apparently can be fixed with some "tuning". <<======== I need some input on this. Is this something I can check and work on myself?
5. Apparently nothing wrong with the fluid in the clutch system -- although Im pretty sure Im gonna replace this.
Thoughts. I'm just going to do this myself. Doesnt seem like anything that I need to shell out $400 for right? Thats the quote from the shop
900 is below spec. It should be closer to 1200 - but 900 isnt going to kill the bike in the grand scheme.
But at that rpm the charging system might not be doing everything to keep the bike running and thus you're slowly draining the battery. If the batt is a dud or dying then you will eventually hit a point where the bike wont stay running at that lower idle. It'd probably keep going with more throttle, like if you had used the throttle advance, but would eventually crap out. Probably next time it was stopped, it would not start again... So yeah a crappy battery with low idle could drain out the battery very slowly.
So you'll need to adjust the idle up a tad and fit a new battery.
Since the bike is already there I would let them bump up the idle.
Have Rafael go over the bike, if he's still there.
$400 to adjust the idle and install a new battery? That sounds crazy even if they going to install an AGM battery that's high.. Are they including some other service items in that price?
Mike
Quote from: extra330 on July 29, 2011, 06:55:12 AM
$400 to adjust the idle and install a new battery? That sounds crazy even if they going to install an AGM battery that's high.. Are they including some other service items in that price?
Mike
Agreed on that. if i remember correctly, one hour labor =$100, battery=$100. Dont really know where the other $200 is coming from. Gonna be asking here in a minute.
Quote from: ducatiz on July 29, 2011, 05:31:53 AM
Have Rafael go over the bike, if he's still there.
Rafael is the guy handling the bike. About to get on the phone with him in a few minutes.
Quote from: Sad Panda on July 28, 2011, 07:03:10 PM
900 is below spec. It should be closer to 1200 - but 900 isnt going to kill the bike in the grand scheme.
But at that rpm the charging system might not be doing everything to keep the bike running and thus you're slowly draining the battery. If the batt is a dud or dying then you will eventually hit a point where the bike wont stay running at that lower idle. It'd probably keep going with more throttle, like if you had used the throttle advance, but would eventually crap out. Probably next time it was stopped, it would not start again... So yeah a crappy battery with low idle could drain out the battery very slowly.
So you'll need to adjust the idle up a tad and fit a new battery.
I can fit the battery, flush clutch and brake system myself. I'm sure there is a battery thread on this forum somewhere. But can someone suggest a quality battery, or will any 12V from autozone do the trick?
Also, Do you think it would be easier to let Rafael get the idle adjustment done? I'm sure there is a throttle stop screw somewhere on the bike, just not sure where. Dont know if he would stop with that (if thats the case, I could prob do that myself too) or check a few other things as well.
Thanks for the input
Quote from: extra330 on July 29, 2011, 06:55:12 AM
$400 to adjust the idle and install a new battery? That sounds crazy even if they going to install an AGM battery that's high.. Are they including some other service items in that price?
Mike
$400 = $99 (1hr labor to "tune") + $99 (1 hr to diagnose the issue) + $150 (parts and labor for battery install) + tax
This is a little ridiculous, anyone else agree?
Quote from: deepak8612 on July 29, 2011, 07:09:58 AM
Agreed on that. if i remember correctly, one hour labor =$100, battery=$100. Dont really know where the other $200 is coming from. Gonna be asking here in a minute.
Colemans' has a $200 Assrape Charge on all invoices for work.
Quote from: deepak8612 on July 29, 2011, 07:09:58 AM
I can fit the battery, flush clutch and brake system myself. I'm sure there is a battery thread on this forum somewhere. But can someone suggest a quality battery, or will any 12V from autozone do the trick?
You can get a lead battery from "Batteries Plus", they have shops all over the area. I would suggest a Shorai (or something similar) tho, because you can lose 7/8 lbs off the stock one.