I attempted to start my bike this morning and it seemed to have difficulty. Then I heard a loud pop. I tried a second time and it started but I temporarily detected a burning smell and noticed the battery light illuminated at idle. That's when I noticed that the headlights switch was turned on. The light turned off as soon as I revved the engine but would flicker off and on at idle. Does this description suggest that my regulator is on its way to failing? If so, are both electrosport and ricks regulators direct swaps? I have installed an Odyssey battery prior to this occasion. What should I look for as I diagnose this issue?
Which year and model of Monster is it?
'94 M900.
First off, check that all of the connections for the main battery cables are clean and tight.
That means remove, clean the fitting and what it bolts to, and reinstall.
Also, it's not a bad idea to apply a little dielectric grease to the contact area.
I suspect the terminals at the battery are not tight enough.
Don't go overboard, 'screwdriver' tight is good.
also, as a general directive, check the connectors from the stator and the regulator for corrosion and heat melting kinds of looks...also repack those with dielectric.
I checked the battery connections and they were not loose. Then I checked the starter bolt and it was kinda loose so I tightened it. After that I went to start the bike and I heard a click and then saw smoke coming from the side. [bang] I quickly removed the seat a noticed that the red wire that's connected to the positive battery terminal was hot and the cable seemed to partially melt from the connector. This red gauge wire has a this plastic part that accepts two inputs, one coming from the starter solenoid(i think that's what it's called), the second input accepts two thin red gauge wires. First thing, besides my local dealer, where can I find this part? Secondly, I think the input coming from the starter solenoid was very hard to remove as well as hot so I suspect this was the cause of the problem. Is it likely that I need to order a new starter solenoid as well? If so, are there any cheaper alternatives?
I'd recommend deleting that connector.
Go direct from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid, and direct from the positive battery terminal to the 2 smaller wires.
Powerlet makes very nice cables, I'd check with them to see what they had.
I will bypass that connector, but what are the two smaller wires that connect to the connector for?
The two smaller wires power the bike, the large wire powers the starter.
Update. I replaced the melted wire, replaced the starter solenoid, and bypassed the damaged battery connector. I pressed the start button and I only heard one click. My battery voltage is 12.9V and the voltage at the starter motor was 12.6V when I pressed the start button. What should I check now?
Try shorting across the two large terminals on the starter solenoid.
That should make the starter turn.
Beware for arcing and sparks when you short, use a wrench or the like that you're not picky about the looks of.
Okay, I'll try that. Btw I connected the voltmeter to the battery terminals, pressed the start button and the voltage dipped to 7V. Does this suggest that the battery is shot?
Quote from: gwjcat on September 17, 2011, 02:33:22 PM
Okay, I'll try that. Btw I connected the voltmeter to the battery terminals, pressed the start button and the voltage dipped to 7V. Does this suggest that the battery is shot?
If the battery is fully charged and all connections are good, yes. My standard answer, fully charge and load test.
Ok. Just just performed the following two test:
1) performed continuity between input of starter motor and the case that the back of the starter motor is connected to, or any other common ground.
2) connected positive battery terminal to starter motor and pressed start button. Bike didn't start, just heard several clicking sounds and sparks flew.
So, I think that leaves me with three conclusions:
1) There's a short within the starter motor and it needs to be fixed
2) The battery is not providing enough current to start the bike. A load test will confirm this
3) both 1&3
If the starter motor needs to be replaced, is this very easy? Is it as simple as removing bolts, then fitting new one to it?
Easy, but expensive. You need to remove the sidecover for one bolt. The sparks are coming from where? I'm not clear on what you did or discovered. When you go directly from the battery to the starter the motor should crank without using the starter button since you are bypassing the whole circuit.
Sorry for the convoluted description. I connected the positive battery terminal directly to the starter motor and the bike failed to start. I has a shop load test the battery and the battery is ok. I am also able to move the bike forward while it's in gear.
OK, assuming the engine turns mechanically it sounds like a starter (repair) is in order. Just to be sure go from battery - to the starter case as well.
Good place for starters and parts
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php (http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php)
Quote from: howie on September 19, 2011, 08:48:46 PM
OK, assuming the engine turns mechanically it sounds like a starter (repair) is in order. Just to be sure go from battery - to the starter case as well.
Good place for starters and parts
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php (http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php)
Would someone explicitly state the steps to replace the starter? Sorry for the newb request but I'm just learning to wrench on my bike. Btw, i'm aware of Rick's but stockers.com sells replacement starters for $110.
Disconnect negative battery terminal.
Remove side cover. You will need to unbolt the slave. Do not squeeze lever with the slave off.
Remove bolts holding side cover on. Keep bolts in order. Some are longer than others. A cheap steering wheel puller will help remove the cover. Remove the alternator cover (the thing in the center of the side cover). Attach the puller where the cover was and slowly tighten the center screw. This can be done with care without a puller or you can make your own.
Remove the positive cable from the starter. If you are going to repair your starter use care. The lug on the starter is easy to break.
Remove the three bolts holding the starter in place.
Remove starter.
Installation is reverse of removal.
Add anything i missed folks!
If you use a gasket instead of liquid sealer and have a fuel injected bike you will need to shim the ignition pick up as needed to maintain the proper air gap. Carbie? No problem.
Or you could take the bike to a good shop. The labor shouldn't be too bad.
Quote from: howie on September 20, 2011, 07:01:49 AM
If you use a gasket instead of liquid sealer and have a fuel injected bike you will need to shim the ignition pick up as needed to maintain the proper air gap. Carbie? No problem.
I recently did this and the LT Snyder book didn't mention anything about this air gap and I've noticed my bike is running a little off since then.
How does one measure this gap to ensure the distance?
thanks
Quote from: Privateer on October 07, 2011, 06:32:52 AM
I recently did this and the LT Snyder book didn't mention anything about this air gap and I've noticed my bike is running a little off since then.
How does one measure this gap to ensure the distance?
thanks
You went from no gasket to a gasket?
Quote from: Privateer on October 07, 2011, 06:32:52 AM
I recently did this and the LT Snyder book didn't mention anything about this air gap and I've noticed my bike is running a little off since then.
How does one measure this gap to ensure the distance?
thanks
The gap is .75-.95mm. Directly in line with the sensor there is a screw you remove to insert the feeler gauge. I would take a photo, but mine is a carbie. If you used a gasket and the gap is wrong you will need a thinner shim.
Quote from: howie on October 07, 2011, 10:35:37 AM
The gap is .75-.95mm. Directly in line with the sensor there is a screw you remove to insert the feeler gauge. I would take a photo, but mine is a carbie. If you used a gasket and the gap is wrong you will need a thinner shim.
thanks. I lost all my service manual PDFs when I lost an HD last month. I'll see if I can figure it out visually.
Quote from: Speeddog on October 07, 2011, 10:15:41 AM
You went from no gasket to a gasket?
Formerly it had that grey goopy stuff. I used the CA Cycleworks gasket.
if I'm removing the bolt that holds the sensor in and measuring the gap that way, I don't think my feeler gauges will get in there and I don't want to break one off inside.
Quote from: Privateer on October 07, 2011, 10:48:29 PM
Formerly it had that grey goopy stuff. I used the CA Cycleworks gasket.
if I'm removing the bolt that holds the sensor in and measuring the gap that way, I don't think my feeler gauges will get in there and I don't want to break one off inside.
It won't. Look at the sensor. Visualize a horizontal line across the engine from the sensor. Just after the side case mating surface you will see a screw in plug with a washer on a raised boss. Remove the screw. You will see the teeth and the sensor. This is where the feeler gauge goes.
Quote from: howie on October 07, 2011, 11:08:12 PM
It won't. Look at the sensor. Visualize a horizontal line across the engine from the sensor. Just after the side case mating surface you will see a screw in plug with a washer on a raised boss. Remove the screw. You will see the teeth and the sensor. This is where the feeler gauge goes.
ah! perfect description thank you. I was looking on the wrong 'plane' of the engine.
Quote from: howie on October 07, 2011, 10:35:37 AM
The gap is .75-.95mm. Directly in line with the sensor there is a screw you remove to insert the feeler gauge. I would take a photo, but mine is a carbie. If you used a gasket and the gap is wrong you will need a thinner shim.
thanks howie. just got the screw out and mine is 1.0mm, maybe a little bigger. Can't seem to find these on our sponsor websites. Is a thinner shim a matter of measuring the thickness of the old one and finding a thinner one at the parts/hardware store? Or gently sanding down the OEM shim?
Gap is ~ 1.0mm?
Shims can be had at a dealer.
Quote from: Speeddog on October 08, 2011, 11:24:08 AM
Gap is ~ 1.0mm?
Shims can be had at a dealer.
yes, my 1mm feeler goes through without much problem, little sticky but not much.. I don't have a thicker one.
Quote from: howie on October 07, 2011, 11:08:12 PM
It won't. Look at the sensor. Visualize a horizontal line across the engine from the sensor. Just after the side case mating surface you will see a screw in plug with a washer on a raised boss. Remove the screw. You will see the teeth and the sensor. This is where the feeler gauge goes.
for the record that bolt is a freaking PITA to get back in.
Quote from: Speeddog on October 08, 2011, 11:24:08 AM
Gap is ~ 1.0mm?
Shims can be had at a dealer.
as a follow up, I finally got around to dealing with this. Bike was running a little rough but otherwise it ran so I procrastinated. In the computer, the dealer showed 3 shim thicknesses, 1.0mm, .8mm, and .6mm. I wasn't sure how thick the one I had was, but it was around 1mm. I don't have a digital caliper. I knew the gap was over 1mm so I asked for both the .8 and .6. THey didn't have any .8's on hand, so I took the .6 home and figured I'd try and see. It was $4 after tax, so no big deal if I was wrong.
Swapped out the shim, measured the gap at .85'ish (my .85 feeler fit, my 1mm did not) so it would seem the OEM shim is .8mm
the inspection bolt is much easier to remove/replace after you've done it once. Bike fired up and idled fine. Tried it again in the cold morning and same thing. It did seem to start a little easier but that might have just been me mentally justifying the fix.