Charging light

[Real Recognize Real]

Sorry for the convoluted description. I connected the positive battery terminal directly to the starter motor and the bike failed to start. I has a shop load test the battery and the battery is ok. I am also able to move the bike forward while it's in gear.

[Howie]

OK, assuming the engine turns mechanically it sounds like a starter (repair) is in order.  Just to be sure go from battery - to the starter case as well. 

Good place for starters and parts
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

[Real Recognize Real]

OK, assuming the engine turns mechanically it sounds like a starter (repair) is in order.  Just to be sure go from battery - to the starter case as well. 

Good place for starters and parts
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

Would someone explicitly state the steps to replace the starter? Sorry for the newb request but I'm just learning to wrench on my bike. Btw, i'm aware of Rick's but stockers.com sells replacement starters for $110. 

[Howie]

Disconnect negative battery terminal.

Remove side cover.  You will need to unbolt the slave.  Do not squeeze lever with the slave off.

Remove bolts holding side cover on.  Keep bolts in order.  Some are longer than others.   A cheap steering wheel puller will help remove the cover.  Remove the alternator cover (the thing in the center of the side cover).  Attach the puller where the cover was and slowly tighten the center screw.  This can be done with care without a puller or you can make your own.  

Remove the positive cable from the starter.  If you are going to repair your starter use care.  The lug on the starter is easy to break.  

Remove the three bolts holding the starter in place.

Remove starter.

Installation is reverse of removal.


Add anything i missed folks!


If you use a gasket instead of liquid sealer and have a fuel injected bike you will need to shim the ignition pick up as needed to maintain the proper air gap. Carbie?  No problem.

Or you could take the bike to a good shop.  The labor shouldn't be too bad.

[Privateer]

If you use a gasket instead of liquid sealer and have a fuel injected bike you will need to shim the ignition pick up as needed to maintain the proper air gap. Carbie?  No problem.

I recently did this and the LT Snyder book didn't mention anything about this air gap and I've noticed my bike is running a little off since then.

How does one measure this gap to ensure the distance?


thanks

[Speeddog]

I recently did this and the LT Snyder book didn't mention anything about this air gap and I've noticed my bike is running a little off since then.

How does one measure this gap to ensure the distance?

thanks

You went from no gasket to a gasket?

[Howie]

I recently did this and the LT Snyder book didn't mention anything about this air gap and I've noticed my bike is running a little off since then.

How does one measure this gap to ensure the distance?


thanks

The gap is .75-.95mm.  Directly in line with the sensor there is a screw you remove to insert the feeler gauge.  I would take a photo, but mine is a carbie.  If you used a gasket and the gap is wrong you will need a thinner shim.

[Privateer]

The gap is .75-.95mm.  Directly in line with the sensor there is a screw you remove to insert the feeler gauge.  I would take a photo, but mine is a carbie.  If you used a gasket and the gap is wrong you will need a thinner shim.

thanks.  I lost all my service manual PDFs when I lost an HD last month.  I'll see if I can figure it out visually.

[Privateer]

You went from no gasket to a gasket?

Formerly it had that grey goopy stuff.  I used the CA Cycleworks gasket.

if I'm removing the bolt that holds the sensor in and measuring the gap that way, I don't think my feeler gauges will get in there and I don't want to break one off inside.

[Howie]

Formerly it had that grey goopy stuff.  I used the CA Cycleworks gasket.

if I'm removing the bolt that holds the sensor in and measuring the gap that way, I don't think my feeler gauges will get in there and I don't want to break one off inside.

It won't.  Look at the sensor.  Visualize a horizontal line across the engine from the sensor.  Just after the side case mating surface you will see a screw in plug with a washer on a raised boss.  Remove the screw.  You will see the teeth and the sensor.  This is where the feeler gauge goes.

[Privateer]

It won't.  Look at the sensor.  Visualize a horizontal line across the engine from the sensor.  Just after the side case mating surface you will see a screw in plug with a washer on a raised boss.  Remove the screw.  You will see the teeth and the sensor.  This is where the feeler gauge goes.

ah!  perfect description thank you.  I was looking on the wrong 'plane' of the engine.

[Privateer]

The gap is .75-.95mm.  Directly in line with the sensor there is a screw you remove to insert the feeler gauge.  I would take a photo, but mine is a carbie.  If you used a gasket and the gap is wrong you will need a thinner shim.

thanks howie.  just got the screw out and mine is 1.0mm, maybe a little bigger.  Can't seem to find these on our sponsor websites.  Is a thinner shim a matter of measuring the thickness of the old one and finding a thinner one at the parts/hardware store?  Or gently sanding down the OEM shim?

[Speeddog]

Gap is ~ 1.0mm?

Shims can be had at a dealer.

[Privateer]

Gap is ~ 1.0mm?

Shims can be had at a dealer.

yes, my 1mm feeler goes through without much problem, little sticky but not much..  I don't have a thicker one.

[Privateer]

It won't.  Look at the sensor.  Visualize a horizontal line across the engine from the sensor.  Just after the side case mating surface you will see a screw in plug with a washer on a raised boss.  Remove the screw.  You will see the teeth and the sensor.  This is where the feeler gauge goes.

for the record that bolt is a freaking PITA to get back in.