Charging light

[Real Recognize Real]

I attempted to start my bike this morning and it seemed to have difficulty. Then I heard a loud pop. I tried a second time and it started but I temporarily detected a burning smell and noticed the battery light illuminated at idle. That's when I noticed that the headlights switch was turned on. The light turned off as soon as I revved the engine but would flicker off and on at idle. Does this description suggest that my regulator is on its way to failing? If so, are both electrosport and ricks regulators direct swaps? I have installed an Odyssey battery prior to this occasion. What should I look for as I diagnose this issue?

[Speeddog]

Which year and model of Monster is it?

[Real Recognize Real]

'94 M900.

[Speeddog]

First off, check that all of the connections for the main battery cables are clean and tight.

That means remove, clean the fitting and what it bolts to, and reinstall.
Also, it's not a bad idea to apply a little dielectric grease to the contact area.

I suspect the terminals at the battery are not tight enough.
Don't go overboard, 'screwdriver' tight is good.

[zooom]

also, as a general directive, check the connectors from the stator and the regulator for corrosion and heat melting kinds of looks...also repack those with dielectric.

[Real Recognize Real]

I checked the battery connections and they were not loose. Then I checked the  starter bolt and it was kinda loose so I tightened it. After that I went to start the bike and I heard a click and then saw smoke coming from the side. I quickly removed the seat a noticed that the red wire that's connected to the positive battery terminal was hot and the cable seemed to partially melt from the connector. This red gauge wire has a this plastic part that accepts two inputs, one coming from the starter solenoid(i think that's what it's called), the second input accepts two thin red gauge wires. First thing, besides my local dealer, where can I find this part? Secondly, I think the input coming from the starter solenoid was very hard to remove as well as hot so I suspect this was the cause of the problem. Is it likely that I need to order a new starter solenoid as well? If so, are there any cheaper alternatives?

[Speeddog]

I'd recommend deleting that connector.
Go direct from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid, and direct from the positive battery terminal to the 2 smaller wires.

Powerlet makes very nice cables, I'd check with them to see what they had.

[Real Recognize Real]

I will bypass that connector, but what are the two smaller wires that connect to the connector for?

[Speeddog]

The two smaller wires power the bike, the large wire powers the starter.

[Real Recognize Real]

Update. I replaced the melted wire, replaced the starter solenoid, and bypassed the damaged battery connector. I pressed the start button and I only heard one click. My battery voltage is 12.9V and the voltage at the starter motor was 12.6V when I pressed the start button. What should I check now?

[Speeddog]

Try shorting across the two large terminals on the starter solenoid.
That should make the starter turn.

Beware for arcing and sparks when you short, use a wrench or the like that you're not picky about the looks of.

[Real Recognize Real]

Okay, I'll try that. Btw I connected the voltmeter to the battery terminals, pressed the start button and the voltage dipped to 7V. Does this suggest that the battery is shot?

[Howie]

Okay, I'll try that. Btw I connected the voltmeter to the battery terminals, pressed the start button and the voltage dipped to 7V. Does this suggest that the battery is shot?

If the battery is fully charged  and all connections are good, yes.  My standard answer, fully charge and load test.

[Real Recognize Real]

Ok. Just just performed the following two test:

1) performed continuity between input of starter motor and the case that the back of the starter motor is connected to, or any other common ground.

2) connected positive battery terminal to starter motor and pressed start button. Bike didn't start, just heard several clicking sounds and sparks flew.

So, I think that leaves me with three conclusions:

1) There's a short within the starter motor and it needs to be fixed
2) The battery is not providing enough current to start the bike. A load test will confirm this
3) both 1&3

If the starter motor needs to be replaced, is this very easy? Is it as simple as removing bolts, then fitting new one to it?  

[Howie]

Easy, but expensive.  You need to remove the sidecover for one bolt.  The sparks are coming from where?  I'm not clear on what you did or discovered.  When you go directly from the battery to the starter the motor should crank without using the starter button since you are bypassing the whole circuit.