Ducati Monster Forum

Hey guys, I'm brand new to this so excuse me if some of my questions on this forum are out of ignorance! This is my first real post...

First question is, through years and years of rolling my right ankle in basketball, it doesn't bend the way it's supposed to. My right foot is basically kicked out at an angle away from directly in line with the way my knee bends. SO, when using the rear brake on a motorcycle I have to put an incredible strain on my leg just to keep my foot on the lever. Is there anything that can be done about this? Any sort of extended brake lever? Thanks guys

Not that I've seen. But you could make one perhaps. A simple cheap proof of concept might be to find some PVC with an inner diameter that's about the same as the out diameter of the lever tip and shove it on. You can test/tune it to the minimum length needed - then work on something more sturdy.

The PVC might be the way to go, but it might be too prone to flexing for long term use - you'll have to figure that out.

I'd also suggest that when you getto something more permanent you figure out an easy release or break away system for it. On example - with the PVC you could use small diameter safety wire run through hole drilled in the tube and run around the lever to hold it, so it won't slip off mid ride, but would break away (hopefully) before doing damage to the actual lever in the event of an accident.

Just remember - that the brake tip is many times one of the lowest items sticking out the side of a bike and extending it may bring it into contact with the ground early 

Thanks for the heads up on breaking the lever, probably wouldn't have thought of that. I might try the PVC idea just to see how far out I need it extended.

Yeah, PVC will be the cheap and easy way to mock it up. Hell you could carry a few sections and a hack saw blade with and 'edit' the length while out on test rides.

Another thing I thought of though - PVC will be slippery. You might get some grip tape, athletic tape (like for hockey sticks) or similar so your toe doesn't just slide off when you put pressure on.

Yeah I had thought of that. If I like the way PVC turns out I'll end up spraying it with some knock-off bedliner stuff a buddy of mine has laying around. Might also consider aluminum tube, depending on thicknesses and diameters I have in the garage.

I 'm assuming you aren't considering surgery or similar methods have not helped in restoring alignment of your knee and foot.  Nothing wrong with that... I just tore my ACL and opted the route of physical therapy/no surgery.


Not sure how it would work - but perhaps replace the peg with the same material used for frame sliders?  I believe you'd still need to come up with the aforementioned easy release/break away system. 

From what I remember from my moto safety course and the good thing is that you should be doing 70% of your braking with the front anyway.

Hopefully I won't get flamed too much for this ( [popcorn] ), but another alternative is to install a second brake lever on the handlebars - similar to stunt bike setups.  This would move your rear brake control (from the foot to hand) and alleviate your discomfort without having to worry about making something that could cause you to dump the bike mid turn.

http://www.stuntlife.com/forums/2-stunt-discussion/203529-pic-hand-brake-clutch.html (http://www.stuntlife.com/forums/2-stunt-discussion/203529-pic-hand-brake-clutch.html)

There's similar same products for the dirt market. One I've seen for the off road market comes with the lines so you can work the rear brake from both a hand lever and the traditional toe lever.

It's far from uncommon for folks with physical issues to move controls. There's a thread about a guy who's racing - that gent has only a left arm and left leg. So yeah, he had to move some stuff.

Derlin is the stuff used for frame sliders a lot... that and bolt in paintball guns. It'd be a good option, but the lever would need to be modified to create a bolt on set up. Or if you've got access to a lathe you could easily turn a kurled derlin extension to fit over the stock tip.

Instead of straight out, how about curving the extension out and up?  That will keep it off the ground in a corner and still let you use the rear brake.

I remember from my MSF class that there was a type of braking system that operated both brakes when the front was applied if i'm not mistaken - although I don't remember what they called it, but that might be an option too?   

I have discussed this at length with a gentleman  ;D I know who rides with a prosthetic right foot.

I think we have come to the conclusion that a "mechanical" (not electronically controlled) linked braking system needs a proportioning valve for the inevitable turn-off onto a gravel/dirt surface.  I think his current plan is one of the dirtbike/stunt solutions installed for the left thumb to operate.  It would also appear that at least some high-level race-bikes are set up with a similar solution at many times the cost.

i could see the need for that if the rear pedal operated the front brake, but if it's the front that's also operating the rear then i'm not sure why it would matter - unless you can't have one without the other? 

In this instance we are talking about an inability to operate the standard foot-pedal.  The reason they are separate is the need for differing proportions of braking effort between the rear and front tire. 

So, in the situation where you are on a nice, smooth two-lane highway with an elevated speed limit and nature urgently calls: you look for a place to pull over and answer the call.  The only place for miles is a turn-off with a "step-down" to a gravel surface, and there is no paved shoulder.

When I ride over a transition from one road surface to another while braking (specifically from a higher grip surface to a lower grip surface) I will lessen the force I apply to the front wheel.  I will generally use more rear brake in proportion to front brake on an inclement surface.

If you simply plumb the hydraulics together so the front brake master cylinder operates both ends, you no longer have this option unless you install an inline proportioning valve.  You will also end up with more lever movement due to the increase in volume of fluid (don't ask me how much, because I don't know :D)

You could leave the rear master cylinder as an alternative actuating method, but this doesn't really solve the problem if it is exceedingly painful to reach the pedal or if you have no feel for where the pedal is or how much pressure you are putting on it.

Don't the stunt riders often locate a small hand-operated lever for the rear up near the clutch lever? That might be something to consider, and just learn to use that and leave the foot lever alone.

so if i'm understanding this correctly (i think i misunderstood the initial post about this setup) you've got some sort of valve on the handlebar that can dial in the amount of force applied to the front brake or rear brake all from the front lever? I have absolutely no idea how that would work, but it's pretty spiffy  [thumbsup]

and yeah i totally agree...i tend to use 0% front brake on gravely surfaces

This is a proportioning valve
(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/wil-260-8419_cp.jpg)

This is a thumb brake
(http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/catalog/THUMB1.jpg)

there are pros and cons for both options.

I also find this:
http://www.nabd.org.uk/adaptions/adaptionkits.htm#thumb (http://www.nabd.org.uk/adaptions/adaptionkits.htm#thumb)

Being the mechanically footed rider,Right BK with Prosthesis, I have researched how. The brembo group makes a rear cylinder with a threaded reservoir fitting (10mm) and you then run a long stainless line From your left grip to the foot brake master, (note: the foot brake master in retracted position is port open, yet the piston will keep fluid from leaking out the push rod end, and will withstand all the pressure from the handle bar master.) Now observe dirtyducks handle bar options, the brembo GP option like Hayden has used, is about $2200, so the dirt bike guys at about $350 are a bargain. Research "thumb Brakes" on general Internet
If you are really "cheap" and handy you can disassemble your push fit foot master and tap the hole for a suitable fitting and save some bucks..






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Here's the kit I mentioned - took me a day to recall where I'd seen it.

http://slavensracing.com/products/brakes/dual-actuated-left-hand-rear-brake-kit-for-ktm-husaberg-husqvarna-by-rekluse (http://slavensracing.com/products/brakes/dual-actuated-left-hand-rear-brake-kit-for-ktm-husaberg-husqvarna-by-rekluse)

Obviously for the dirt market - but with some craft it could be used for this application. And only $285