It's been quite a long time coming, but I've finally gotten some time to sort through the M900. I sorted some things out years ago when I first altered it, but am now looking to really clean things up and if possible conceal connectors.
So, by question is what connectors are good and weatherproof when changing things up? Is there any recommended updates like wiring specs (gauge, sheathing etc)? Any tips on how to clean things up, connector types etc would be greatly appreciated. You know, mostly the areas behind the headlight and frame head, and again back by the battery, coils and modules which always look nappy and delicate.
My attempt on the subject ... ;D [laugh]
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/100_1729.jpg)
<sidebar>
Leaving your tank like that is *really* hard on the hinge area, tends to make 'em leak.
Even if it's empty....
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On a more serious note I'm rebuilding the bike this winter so it was my attention to rewire the ole thing
In my point of view the all the electronics should be in front I really don't see the purpose of putting the fuse box at the back ..it's just no nonsense ??? I have 2 wiring loom so I add the luxury of installing a "new" one on the bike and experimenting whit the other ....
for the moment I found that wiring the bike while changing the side looks cleaner . I've rewire the loom so it passe's on the other side of the bike in the back. the loom passe's betwen the rear sock and the motor ..to go over the belts and to the front...... (I'll do photo's tomorrow)
Quote from: Speeddog on September 08, 2012, 04:09:11 PM
<sidebar>
Leaving your tank like that is *really* hard on the hinge area, tends to make 'em leak.
Even if it's empty....
</sidebar>
I know ... I'm guilty :-\ :-\
Areas that need TLC after some years, in my experience, are:
Wiring around steering head
Connections ignition relay
Check under hood of starter relay f proper function
Wiring rear light/indicators under fender
Resolder fat wires from battery
Fuse box f good contact to fuses
Cables in/out to ignition boxes
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on September 08, 2012, 04:18:59 PM
I know ... I'm guilty :-\ :-\
I can fix it when it starts to leak
Quote from: ducpainter on September 08, 2012, 04:50:07 PM
I can fix it when it starts to leak
can you repaint it too? [bow_down] there's alot of scratches on it [bang]
Quote from: ducatigirl100 on September 08, 2012, 04:56:49 PM
can you repaint it too? [bow_down] there's alot of scratches on it [bang]
It's what I do
OK this is what the wiring loom looks like
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/100_1760.jpg) [bang]
And here's what it should look like
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/jfran745218/100_1794.jpg)
don't' mind all the electrical tape I'm redoing the all the loom including new connectors ...this was just for "design" and "concept" purpose's
Quote from: greenmonster on September 08, 2012, 04:41:03 PM
Areas that need TLC after some years, in my experience, are:
Wiring around steering head
Connections ignition relay
Check under hood of starter relay f proper function
Wiring rear light/indicators under fender
Resolder fat wires from battery
Fuse box f good contact to fuses
Cables in/out to ignition boxes
Yes, especially wiring around steering head and ignition / module area.
Have you re-used the connection couplers (rubberized weather sealed), or changed them for newer connections?
You want TE Superseal connectors (formerly Tyco Electronics)
I used them for making a new loom for my Alazzurra. Totally modular, seal perfectly, lots of options.
Buy the tool.
Yes! That's in the ballpark. I'll have to see if there's a local rep. I'm thinking there ought to be. . . somewhere here in Detroit.
Quote from: DMFerFKP on September 09, 2012, 04:31:51 AM
did you find one for less than $100?
Catalogue price for the one im referring to is $11
Quote from: ducatiz on September 09, 2012, 05:23:49 AM
Catalogue price for the one im referring to is $11
Link?
ducatiz, did you use the 1.5 series or another product line?
Quote from: DMFerFKP on September 09, 2012, 07:28:15 AM
Link?
Don't have an online link to it anymore, I bought it from a place in Germany. It's not the crimp tool, it's the extraction tool. The Crimp tool is like $300
Quote from: 1KDS on September 09, 2012, 08:40:42 AM
ducatiz, did you use the 1.5 series or another product line?
yes. just like on the current model Ducatis
Quote from: ducatiz on September 09, 2012, 01:31:50 PM
Don't have an online link to it anymore, I bought it from a place in Germany. It's not the crimp tool, it's the extraction tool. The Crimp tool is like $300
yes. just like on the current model Ducatis
Haven't got one yet but it's cheap enough to give it a try
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270994628072?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/270994628072?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
Quote from: DMFerFKP on September 09, 2012, 01:48:38 PM
Haven't got one yet but it's cheap enough to give it a try
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270994628072?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/270994628072?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
Limited to 18 ga max. :-\
Quote from: ducpainter on September 09, 2012, 01:50:19 PM
Limited to 18 ga max. :-\
That would cover the AMP connectors on Ducati, wouldn't it?
Quote from: DMFerFKP on September 09, 2012, 01:54:36 PM
That would cover the AMP connectors on Ducati, wouldn't it?
If you wanted to build a harness with OEM sized wires, I guess so.
I think some of the loads are a bit much for the factory sizing.
Suzyj will correct me I'm sure. :P
"Have you re-used the connection couplers"
Yep, works fine f me.
Superseals are good for most of the wiring, with the exception of headlight, stator, rectifier/regulator, fusebox and battery.
For these, you'll need other stuff. I really like the metripack 2.8 connectors - I've used these for my headlight. They're good for 14ga wire and well sealed.
For battery you really need ring terminals. I recommend binning the stock rectifier and going with a Shindengen MOSFET one. More efficient and the connectors are awesome.
Go have a browse at the Eastern Beaver website. He sells lots of useful connectors as kits, plus his crimp tools (I bought all three) do everything from gauge wiring to battery terminals, including Superseals, metripack, you name it.
Suzy, any thoughts on the Deutsch "D" series connectors for motorcycle applications?
Between DT, DTM and DTP they cover AWG 22-10 and rated amperage per pin from 7.5 to 20 amps.
Lots of choice as far as number of pins per connector and the 'square' arrangement rather than side-by-side of the Superseals and Metri-Pack might 'package' better in some situations.
Maybe similar to the Sumimoto available from Eastern Beaver, they're available in (the US at least) from multiple sources, Batts Racing is just one example (http://www.deutschconnector.com/).
Quote from: suzyj on September 11, 2012, 04:43:43 PM
For battery you really need ring terminals. I recommend binning the stock rectifier and going with a Shindengen MOSFET one. More efficient and the connectors are awesome.
do you know of anyone who has right-angle ring terminals? Eastern Beaver doesn't have them
They are far superior for battery hookups imho and i'd like a box around.
Quote from: carbmon on September 12, 2012, 07:00:19 AM
Suzy, any thoughts on the Deutsch "D" series connectors for motorcycle applications?
Between DT, DTM and DTP they cover AWG 22-10 and rated amperage per pin from 7.5 to 20 amps.
Lots of choice as far as number of pins per connector and the 'square' arrangement rather than side-by-side of the Superseals and Metri-Pack might 'package' better in some situations.
Maybe similar to the Sumimoto available from Eastern Beaver, they're available in (the US at least) from multiple sources, Batts Racing is just one example (http://www.deutschconnector.com/).
From what I've heard, they're very good. However I don't have any personal experience with them. The Sumitomo connectors are very good also - equivalent to superseals. I used an 8 pin Sumitomo DL for my left-hand handlebar control (indicators, lights, horn). The way my bike is wired the headlight current doesn't go through this connector, but the horn current does, so I wanted something robust but still reasonably compact. The Sumitomo worked well there, and for a bonus it fit on the tab where the old connector went.