Ducati Monster Forum

Moto Board => Tech => Topic started by: He Man on January 11, 2013, 04:59:20 PM

Title: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 11, 2013, 04:59:20 PM
What exactly goes through the ECU as it wants to start a bike?

I've finnaly made a video of whats going on and to my understanding, even if the voltage drops too low (which it always does on a lead acid) the starter will try to cycle and studder before stoping its sequence. If and when i can get the bike started, she starts back up without any issues at all and she starts very strongly, its just the initial start up that's nearly impossible.

Heres a video of what it always does. It just stops and cuts out. The ground wire goes from the negative end of the battery to the bolt located next to the crank case breather. My frame is fully clear coated so is there a chance that its a bad ground?

Just ignore me when i say connect the fuel pump disconnected. The wire if you look closely is indeed disconnected, but once i connected it there was no change in the behavior and the other video was crappy.

Ducati EVO1100 Starting issues (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBIR85InuBs#)
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: Speeddog on January 11, 2013, 05:35:45 PM
What's the condition of the ground wire from the battery to the crankcase?

Connection to the case clean and tight?
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 11, 2013, 05:38:49 PM
Yup, i removed it, saw no dirty connections and placed some dielectric grease and bolted it back onto the motor. Case is clean as a whistle. The battery side is nice and tight as well, checked the OEM Crimping for damage, found none.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: battlecry on January 11, 2013, 05:59:45 PM
He, I've been following a thread on ADVRIDER about Li batteries:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=757934 (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=757934)

Check the chart of amp-hour capacity for Li batteries down the page.  If it is correct, 12.9V is not fully charged, it is only 20-30%

The warning is: do not allow resting voltage to fall below 12.86V or they go south.  

They discuss these batteries needing a different charger profile, not the trickle chargers we use with AGM or Pb batteries.  

They also discuss a method of starting in cold weather that involves heating the battery by draining it with a few false starts or something.

I think your battery is not fully charged and that is why the voltage drops below the ECU trip point.

Can you borrow another charged battery and test start your Monster?

I *think* you may still be able to ride this w/e.   
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 11, 2013, 08:11:23 PM
I double checked with Ballasitic, you are right, the voltage is low, but their minimum is 9volts, they should be at 14.4. Anything below 6v and they need to be repalced.

however, it is still higher than an AGM battery, so technically speaking, i shouldnt have an issue. my previous AGM batt would drop as low as 8v and it wouldnt quit it just turn verryyyyy slowly.

I put the battery on a charger. We'll see how she turns tomorrow.

I am familar with the cold start procedure, but it shouldnt be necessary for this temp. Only for very cold temps. Even then, ive heard people not having too much of an issue with the 8cell. So i should be good to go with the 12 cell.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: Howie on January 11, 2013, 08:16:34 PM
Quote from: battlecry on January 11, 2013, 05:59:45 PM
He, I've been following a thread on ADVRIDER about Li batteries:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=757934 (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=757934)

Check the chart of amp-hour capacity for Li batteries down the page.  If it is correct, 12.9V is not fully charged, it is only 20-30%

The warning is: do not allow resting voltage to fall below 12.86V or they go south.  

They discuss these batteries needing a different charger profile, not the trickle chargers we use with AGM or Pb batteries.  

They also discuss a method of starting in cold weather that involves heating the battery by draining it with a few false starts or something.

I think your battery is not fully charged and that is why the voltage drops below the ECU trip point.

Can you borrow another charged battery and test start your Monster?

I *think* you may still be able to ride this w/e.   


Yep.  http://www.shoraipower.com/s.nl/it.I/id.5/.f  Scroll down to the chart.  Your meter is also showing a drop to 9.1 volts while cranking, No?  Chances are your meter is too slow to catch the real drop.  Weak battery.

An easy way to check if you have a good ground is simply take your voltmeter.  Positive on a starter mounting bolt.  Negative on the battery negative terminal.  Crank engine.  If you read more than .5 volts you have excessive voltage drop.  Repair as needed.  No connection should have more than .2 volts.  All connections good but there is still too much voltage drop?  The starter motor may not be grounding well to the engine.  Run a heavy gauge jumper wire from a starter end bolt to battery negative.  Excessive voltage drop cured?  Run a permanent wire.  Needless to say this is based on a known good battery.

 
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 11, 2013, 08:38:04 PM
howie you mentioned that previously,

there is only one bolt on the starter thats for the positive lead (off the relay), if i run a negative lead off it, wont that just cause a short?

Strange enough i put this battery on a 1098, and theres no problem cranking that SOB. Once the battery is charged in the morning, ill report back with results. Hopefully they will be satisfying and it is just a poorly charged battery.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: Howie on January 11, 2013, 08:43:43 PM
Quote from: He Man on January 11, 2013, 08:38:04 PM
howie you mentioned that previously,

there is only one bolt on the starter thats for the positive lead (off the relay), if i run a negative lead off it, wont that just cause a short?

Big time!!!  Not from there, a through bolt that holds the starter together.  Or from a mounting bolt.  The starter case is ground.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: thought on January 11, 2013, 09:01:14 PM
Cold this just be the same kind of issue that the newer monsters have been having?  Like in that huge thread over the 796 cold start issues along with some stories I've read about the same issue pertaining to the m1100.

As in, sometimes when trying to start it after a cold start, it will fire up and then just die and wont start again.  After waiting a bit, it will start up just fine.  Intermittent and with no real symptoms as to when/why it happens.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: Howie on January 11, 2013, 09:07:38 PM
Quote from: thought on January 11, 2013, 09:01:14 PM
Cold this just be the same kind of issue that the newer monsters have been having?  Like in that huge thread over the 796 cold start issues along with some stories I've read about the same issue pertaining to the m1100.

As in, sometimes when trying to start it after a cold start, it will fire up and then just die and wont start again.  After waiting a bit, it will start up just fine.  Intermittent and with no real symptoms as to when/why it happens.

It is possible.  Paint/sealer can affect the ground from the motor. 
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 11, 2013, 09:24:14 PM
Quote from: howie on January 11, 2013, 08:43:43 PM
Big time!!!  Not from there, a through bolt that holds the starter together.  Or from a mounting bolt.  The starter case is ground.

oh you mean one THOSE bolts. Gonna have to dig through the  bucket of wire, i know i have some large guage wire from a house i tore apart last year and test the starter.

i could strip the paint off the ground on the case and give it another shot if the battery charging does not work out.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: battlecry on January 12, 2013, 06:13:55 AM
My bet is still a depleted battery, He Man.  I run a lighter Yuasa 7Z battery so I changed the ground and starter cables to 4 ga. and use the headlamp gizmo to eliminate the headlamp when starting the motor.  When the battery is not topped up, it behaves just like your vid when trying to start the bike.   

Check the resting voltage of the battery against the amp-capacity table on the Advrider link before cranking.  If it doesn't fire right up after a full charge, try testing with another good battery before you add more cables. 
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 12, 2013, 10:07:30 AM
battlecry, you get the oscar!!

I charged the battery to a standing voltage of 13.4v when i hit the starter it would cut out at 10v and as howie stated, the refresh rate of the DVOM is probably too low to detect the actual low.

So i swapped it for an AGM. problem solved. Though all my wires are all mangled because i resoldered them for the lithium setup.

also, howie, i ran in parallel the voltmeter between the POS terminal and the starter. I was reading the same voltage across the battery, when i hit the starter, i would get into the decimal voltages. ~0.7 during cranking, im sure this isnt normal, but it doesnt affect starting for the AGM battery.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: battlecry on January 12, 2013, 11:23:02 AM
I got java disabled on my browser, otherwise I'd say, *thumbs up*, *dolph*, and *chug*.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 12, 2013, 11:32:17 AM
This is going to be the 3rd battery. THe original battery was repalced under warranty, and now it will be replaced again...
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: battlecry on January 12, 2013, 12:06:11 PM
Sorry to hear that He Man.  It sounds you are at the technology bleeding edge.  From the cylindrical shape of the Ballistic batteries, it looks like they may use A123 cells.  Don't know what impact the A123 bankruptcy may have on suppliers like Ballistic.  Sorry situation all around.

_CY_ at Advrider is testing a new Li battery supplier that claims to have internal cell balancing circuitry.  That may be something of interest. 
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 12, 2013, 12:12:40 PM
I was never too intrested in in lithium batteries, but i picked the 12 cell up for $100. It wasnt much more than an AGM, and i figured if i wasnt happy with it, i could always sell it to someone whos wants the weight savings.

If the replacement is good, then ill keep it, otherwise im going back to AGMs.

And yea they dont advertise it, but it sure does look like A123 cells.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 12, 2013, 10:14:29 PM
BAH HUMBUG!!!

Well that batt is going back to Ballistic, and im going back to AGM. My seat with the dual gel pads for passenger and rider is heavier than the AGM, so clearly weight is not an issue for me! Starting in any and all conditions reliably is.

I got a short little jaunt in today and its nice to have the motor start at the very least! There is still a bit of a hesitation to start, but nothing significant considering it is a nearly 2 year old battery that wasnt fully charged (pulled from a 1098). Will be ordering a generic AGM battery tonight.

I must say after riding my friends 1098, it leaves my monster umm...feeling underpowered especially in the braking department!!! That 1098 just has more GO!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: koko64 on January 12, 2013, 11:29:51 PM
 Oops. Forget that post.  I  meant to pm you.
I need glasses, specially with the smartphone.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: dlearl476 on January 13, 2013, 06:13:33 AM
Quote from: He Man on January 12, 2013, 10:14:29 PM


I got a short little jaunt in today and its nice to have the motor start at the very least! There is still a bit of a hesitation to start, but nothing significant considering it is a nearly 2 year old battery that wasnt fully charged (pulled from a 1098). Will be ordering a generic AGM battery tonight.


I just went through some starting issues of my own detailed in my oil heater thread.  I ended up ordering a TruGel MG16aL-A2 and my bike starts the second I hit the starter. When I was looking though, I missed the "all of our OEM batteries are guaranteed to fit" bit on this page or I would have got the motobatt.
http://www.impactbattery.com/batteries/motorcycle-batteries/ducati/900cc/monster-1994-2000/ (http://www.impactbattery.com/batteries/motorcycle-batteries/ducati/900cc/monster-1994-2000/)

I passed on it because its a tiny bit larger than the yuasa and I didn't want to wait on a batt, lug it to storage only to have it not fit and have to send it back. I'm going to get one if I ever need another battery.

In the meantime, I got the TruGel from PwersportsSuperstore and the service was great, from order to at my door in 2.5 days.

Don't know if any of his applies to your bike but I thought I'd share.

Btw, got in about 135 miles yesterday myself before the fog started rolling in and my cold hands started complaining too much. The real test will be when I go out tos tart it today, sitting on the street instead of parked in my semi-warm storage.

I surely pisses me off though that I suffered two years of alleged cold start issues I blamed on the FCR's lack of a choke when it was my stupid underpowered battery all along.  [bang]
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 23, 2013, 06:32:04 PM
to the top!

Alright, so i ran my friends battery for one day and it did turn over, though there were times when it was having issues. I started it 5 times that day and twice it wouldnt turn over fully. I ended up buying a new AGM battery and the issue started again.

Heres whats going on

1) Without the sparkplugs in, the starter turns the motor all day
2) with the spark plugs in it will sometimes turn, other times it will die instantly.
3) THe spark plugs do work. I have spark at the right time on both coils
4)These are fully charged brand new AGM batteries registering 12.9 volts off the charger.

I am having mixed issues where it turns over for 10 seconds and refuses to start, or it turns over and i can get one or two detonations before it gives out, or it plain old gives out.

i dont jiggle the wires between hitting the starting, it can happen in any order. Sometimes i can get it to start, and it sounds like its firing on one cylinder (that distinct uneven exhaust note) but i check both exhaust headers and they are both warm.

I really dont know where to go from here. This thing is an electrical demon. Ive taken sand paper to the main ground to amke sure i have a good clean surfacae, ive done the same with the ecu ground.

ANy suggestions short of completely rebuilding the wiring harness from scratch?
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: Speeddog on January 23, 2013, 08:17:17 PM
What if you jump the solenoid, use an appropriately sized open end wrench or whatever.

Be careful about sparks..... Blah blah blah
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 23, 2013, 08:58:03 PM
since i killed the new AGM battery cranking her today (its on the charger now) ill  try again tomorrow.

Aside from it starting, what kind of problems would i see if its a bad ground?
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 24, 2013, 03:56:40 PM
i jumped it and she started up. she still hesitated like a semi old battery on a carbed bike, but eventually she stumbled anad i was able to catch the her on the throttle, she idled for about 10 mins without issue once i warmed up, and she started up easily after i shut it off.

Comments?

On this bike i click the starter and it  goes through an automatic cycling, not like an older bike wher ei have to hold the button down.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 24, 2013, 08:59:48 PM
So i checkedwith the manufacturer of the battery i bought. Its not OEM yuasa, and its only 130cca. the yuasa genuine is 180cca. Which is probably what the problem is. The new motor is slightly higher compression and it is 13 degrees outside. so even if it is brand new it isnt powerful enough to turn the motor without droping the voltage too much.

Aside from that the terminals dont exactly fit very well, so im going to return the battery and get a refund on the ballistic and buy a trugel or an OEM yuasa.

Anyone have experience with the trugel?
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: battlecry on January 25, 2013, 05:17:35 AM

No data on trugel, but noticed that Yuasa has an aftermarket brand called Motocross.  Supposed to be the same batteries but rebranded and repriced for a wider market.  Kinda like Acura and Honda.  May save you a few bucks.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: Langanobob on January 25, 2013, 06:30:26 AM
HeMan, I think it's a moot point since you already mentioned that it cranks all day with the plugs out, but I'm curious what oil you're running?
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 25, 2013, 09:17:10 AM
i am running 10W-30

Im not riding it this winter so im not using a winter oil.

battlecry, i looked it up, i dont understand how they rate their batteries.

how can 1 battery have both 135CCA, 180CCA and now motorcross (rebranded yuasa) claim 200CCA for the same YT12B-BS battery??? i understand its a quality of the cells thing, but how much can u improve the quality to generate more than 50% increase in performance.

Autozone makes a Duralast one that has 180 BCI CCA. i am questioning how accurate that value is though...

It also turns out that the 1098 for some models came with the bigger YTX14-BS (200CCA). Even the year old Yuasa YT12BBS in my budies 1098 is having issues cranking in this weather.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: battlecry on January 25, 2013, 10:12:55 AM
Crazy, isn't it?  Amazon lists the -12 as 215CCA, Batterystuff's Motocross is 125CCA (dislexia?), Batterymart does a 160CCA look-alike, and Atbatt lists both the Yuasa genuine and Motocross as 215.   The 125 sounds more like a W-hr rating than CCA.  My YTZ7S is rated at 130CCA and has been serviceable (2 in 9 years) on my M800 but I start w/o the headlamp. 

Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 25, 2013, 10:25:32 AM
I have a switch that shuts off the headlamp as well. Actually, my ballast isnt even connected and im having these issues!

Im really not sure if i should get the duralast one or the motocross 215cca one. I wonder if autozone has a test for CA?

i figure it this way, 180 from duralast should work. if it doenst i can return it. but if the motocross one is really 215, i want that for sure but theres no guarantee.


edit: i jsut made the most informative call ever.

So, this guy i called off of motorcross website

B & B Battery Group, Inc.
Bill Yates & Bob Giardina
9 Hurd Street
Cazenovia, New York 13035
Phone: (315)436-1423
bgiardina@twcny.rr.com


Said.... that the quality of a cell is a bIG player in the battery itself. THe quality of the lead, the acid, the mat in the fiberglass etc and it can indeed change the cca dramatically. He couldnt get any of hte Yuasa/motorcorss (same brand) in stock the last time he purchased them, so he bought a powersonic YT12B-BS equivalent. He bench tested it on the spot and it spit out 183 CCA at 83% charge ( rated at 180). Yuasas new stock, is rated at 215 and he said that from his experience, the 215 is pretty accurate.

So there you go. Im buying the motocross one.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: battlecry on January 25, 2013, 01:13:33 PM
Good to hear, He Man.  The Yuasa Technical Manual says you should let the new battery come up to ambient temperature ~1/2 hour or so and then fully charge it before you use it.  It should arrive at ~80% charge.  R
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 25, 2013, 01:41:37 PM
ok bad news... sort of.

I have a few questions and I'm going to list them since i need discreet answers.

1)When a bike starts up, its suppose to just "come alive" both cylinders fire up strongly and it will maintain an idle. But my bike wont do that when cold. it sounds like one cylinder fires and then it misses, then the other fires and it misses. and i have to wait for the right moment to catch it with the throttle and hold the throttle at 2500rpms manually until it can idle on its own. What sort of problem am i seeing with this? we are talking abuot the SAME battery on two different bikes. (1098 and my dynotuned S2R1100). Assume same charge state.

2)I warmed up my bike and i noticed that it has great difficulty starting with the airbox installed. It seems that the throttle body vacuum hose is the culprit. When its connected to the airbox, it tries to start and isntead spits out white smoke (its the half burnt injection gas that gets pushed out).  When its open the atmosphere, the bike starts up fairly well. My only guess is that the hose on the 1100 is bigger? but im not sure why it would matter since i dont really know how those TBs work

3) With the bike warmed up (oil is about 150 degrees so not fully warmed up) airbox installed, and the throttle vaccum hose open to atmosphere, i cant blip the throttle without it cutting out. idling is not an issue.

edit: This TB Vaccum hose, is actually the hose to the stepper motor (just checked the S2R1000 manual). Perhaps this is the reason why it shuts off when blipping the throttle?

edit2: Verified the M1100EVO (and only the EVO) has a larger hose for the stepper motor. source: Someone on a thread bought the TPO kit for their M1100EVO and said that hte filter they supplied for the normal 1100 motor wouldnt fit.

edit3: I cleared the vent hose. Bike starts up without any issues but the bike does stall when i blipp the throttle sometimes. Warm or cold it happens.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: Howie on January 25, 2013, 09:22:26 PM
Quote from: He Man on January 25, 2013, 01:41:37 PM
ok bad news... sort of.

I have a few questions and I'm going to list them since i need discreet answers.

1)When a bike starts up, its suppose to just "come alive" both cylinders fire up strongly and it will maintain an idle. But my bike wont do that when cold. it sounds like one cylinder fires and then it misses, then the other fires and it misses. and i have to wait for the right moment to catch it with the throttle and hold the throttle at 2500rpms manually until it can idle on its own. What sort of problem am i seeing with this? we are talking abuot the SAME battery on two different bikes. (1098 and my dynotuned S2R1100). Assume same charge state.

Cold start is a read only map.  Most likely the problem is mixture related.  Slightly restrict air going into the intake.  Better?  The bike is too lean on start up.  Not better?  Increase air flow by removing the lid and/or air filter element.  Better?  To rich.  You can also experiment with the hoses from the stepper motor to the intake manifold.  Restrict them.  Better?  too lean.

2)I warmed up my bike and i noticed that it has great difficulty starting with the airbox installed. It seems that the throttle body vacuum hose is the culprit. When its connected to the airbox, it tries to start and isntead spits out white smoke (its the half burnt injection gas that gets pushed out).  When its open the atmosphere, the bike starts up fairly well. My only guess is that the hose on the 1100 is bigger? but im not sure why it would matter since i dont really know how those TBs work

Vacuum hose?  AFAIK you have a hose from the air box to the stepper motor.  Depending on temperature the stepper motor cycles quickly controlling quantity of air bypassing the throttle plates.  This controls your idle speed and also affects fuel ratio.

3) With the bike warmed up (oil is about 150 degrees so not fully warmed up) airbox installed, and the throttle vaccum hose open to atmosphere, i cant blip the throttle without it cutting out. idling is not an issue.

edit: This TB Vaccum hose, is actually the hose to the stepper motor (just checked the S2R1000 manual). Perhaps this is the reason why it shuts off when blipping the throttle?

edit2: Verified the M1100EVO (and only the EVO) has a larger hose for the stepper motor. source: Someone on a thread bought the TPO kit for their M1100EVO and said that hte filter they supplied for the normal 1100 motor wouldnt fit.

edit3: I cleared the vent hose. Bike starts up without any issues but the bike does stall when i blipp the throttle sometimes. Warm or cold it happens.
Again, mixture.

It may take some time to find the right combination to get things right, or even good enough.   Ummm...this might be easier and get you in the right direction.  Synch hot.  Adjust  air bleeds to 4-6% CO.  Recheck synch and adjust if needed.  Does the bike start cold better now?  Now try out 1/2 turn.  Better?  Worse?  In.  Better?  Worse?
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 25, 2013, 09:34:29 PM
Ill test your suggestions out tomorrow.

running the filter straight to open atmo is fine and dandy. I may just throw a filter on there and call it a day.

Though i still cant quite figure out why the bike shuts off after blipping it. is that also stepper motor related?

video of the bike as of now , airbox on, with K&N filter open airlid and the stepper hose runs to atmo.

Ducati S2R Idle Problems after Blipping (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDHEdOwsp3k&feature=youtu.be#)

I read your edits. Theres no way for me to measure the CO on the exahust.  The bike starts without much issue cold now as evident in the video.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: Howie on January 25, 2013, 09:49:19 PM
Probably not a stepper motor problem if idle speed is correct.  I would suspect mixture is off though.  Strange that it is stalling after the blip.  Air bleeds may make a difference.  Did you touch the throttle stop screw?  I would suggest not messing with it. 
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 25, 2013, 10:04:04 PM
Never touched the  throttle stop screw. but if the idle is good, then its probably not a problem otherwise the idle is too low.

Ill check the airbleeds, though they are normally fully closed IIRC.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: Howie on January 26, 2013, 04:41:56 AM
Yes, normally close to or closed.  Your bike is no longer normal though.  Forgot to say keep notes on everything you do so you know where you have been.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: jaxduc on January 26, 2013, 06:22:13 AM
I marvel at the expertise in this thread.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: Howie on January 26, 2013, 11:58:51 AM
I would reserve my marveling until the bike works properly :P
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 26, 2013, 01:22:28 PM
haha! Howie, i don't know how you know half the stuff you know. [bow_down] ya know!

I didnt make it to the garage today because i *accidently* printed the wiring diagram to my bike....and i found this neat program called edraw which is basically click and point wiring digrams! oh well... lets see what i can do in the next  2 hours.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on January 26, 2013, 01:57:53 PM
i lied. i had to go down there. I warmed the bike up for 10 minutes and took it for a short ride and it rode absolutely horrible. Just bad throttle response.

I checked the idle air, and indeed it was normally closed. while messing around there the bike shut off. Turns out if i wiggle the TPS wire on the left side, the bike just dies.

So i cleared everything around it and blipped the throttle, it dies.

I push the wires in and blip it, bike has no problem. Though i did get some scary intake popping through the forward cylinder(is this due to a rich forward cylinder map?)

So it seems as if i have a bad connection somewhere in the TPS connector. Is there a special tool for these connectors? are they reusable?
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: dlearl476 on February 12, 2013, 08:59:48 AM
Quote from: He Man on January 26, 2013, 01:57:53 PM

So it seems as if i have a bad connection somewhere in the TPS connector. Is there a special tool for these connectors? are they reusable?

Connector Valhalla.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: koko64 on February 12, 2013, 11:11:39 AM
How did you go with it?
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on February 12, 2013, 03:18:32 PM
I haven't had time to look at the bike till today (and didnt order any of the connectors either)

but i rebuilt the connector, wasnt easy, thing is a pregnant dog to take apart. The wire is now solid (tested the connections with my multimeter).

Bike still cuts out on occasion when blipping. I am not sure what controls the idle rev. I suspect that the TPS isn't reset properly. though i dont have enough knowledge of how that system works to say for sure. Eitherway, I ordered the cables for the ducatidiag program to see if i can reset the TPS myself.

It seems that if i hold back on the throttle during blipping then the idle doestn drop off far enough to cause it to die. Most of the problem exists when im heading towards a light and im blipping the throttle to rev match on down shifts. Meanwhile I pull the clutch in as i get closer to the light and the bike dies. ( today was the only day i rode the bike in a few weeks).

on the plus side, the bike starts up easily and without hesitation.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: Curmudgeon on February 12, 2013, 06:32:43 PM
If you are running a Siemens ECU, it's adaptive, therefore no fixed map. If you want to reset the TPS, cycling the ignition fully three times will reset the TPS. No tool required. Not sure TPS is your problem. You can't think Marelli when you try to understand Siemens. It more like a modern car ECU than a bike ECU.
Title: Re: Starting Procedure
Post by: He Man on February 12, 2013, 08:18:54 PM
i have a Marelli ecu, TPS requires a software reset on these.