Hallo from Greece!
I bought a 02 Monster 620 on january, crashed it and now riding it again.
My problem is that sometimes it won't start. I can't determine when and why just sometimes it won't get spark and doesnt start.
So another problem that maybe related is that if i turn the key on for more than 10 secs and less than 15 ofcourse, the ecu cuts the power to the coils thus no spark is created to ignite the engine.
Is there a module or parameter in the ecu that will cut the coils power after 10 secs?
Thanks!
Yes, the immobilizer cuts power after about 15 seconds. Turn off, remove key, try again.
Battery!!!
No, I'm not talking about the immobilizers 15 sec I;'m aware of this fuction.
If i push the start button 10 secs after key on it cranks and sends fuel normally the only thing missing from the equation is the spark!
I traced down the wiring and found that the power to coils is cut by the ecu.
SpikeC have you heard of this problem before? How are you so sure it's a battery?
Thanks
Based on numerous threads on this site regarding similar issues. How old is the battery? Does it live on a battery tender? Has it been load tested?
If i turn the key on and off again and press start button quickly it starts no prob
No battery tender, i dont know how old the battery is since i bought it second hand.
How can i load test it?
Thanks
You can either bring the battery to a shop (preferable) since most of us don't have a load tester or do a shade tree (not as good) test. Hook a multi meter across your battery, set on DC volts. Remove fuel pump fuse so engine dos not start, Crank for 15 seconds. Voltage should stay over 9.6 volts.
SpikeC does accuse the battery for everything, but this time he might be correct. A marginal battery can cause this. If the battery tests good move on to connections and ground.
Ok, i will check the battery tomorrow, but if I'm going to check the wiring I have to trace the current to the ecu, as everything is ok after the ecu.
the cheap way is to press the start button within 10 secs of key on. how hard can it be?
the expensive way is to fix it.
Yeah thats what i do, but the problem is that sometimes it doesnt start from the first time.
And it will not start at all no matter the seconds.
I just think i have duplicated this condition by letting the key on for more time.
Thanks
Checked battery and seems ok.
Lights on, spark caps off, cranking for 15 secs and voltage didn't go under 12.7
Any ideas?
OK, the battery is not the problem. How are you determining no power to the coils after 10 seconds?
Connecting the voltmeter to the coils. When I push the start button they should have 11-12 volts but mine have 0-0.5 v after 10 seconds.
If i push the start button earlier they are ok 12v and spark plugs fire.
i'd pop another ecu into it and see if that fixes it. if it doesn't start moving downstream from there.
It might be worth checking that he ecu is properly bolted down to its heat sink. Running the coils continually draws a fair bit of power, which goes through big transistors in the ecu. They're probably overheating and shutting down.
That said, I don't think it's reasonable to expect the ecu to drive the coils continually when you're not trying to start the bike. If I was coding it, I'd put a timeout in for self preservation.
Quote from: suzyj on July 13, 2013, 06:58:29 PM
It might be worth checking that he ecu is properly bolted down to its heat sink. Running the coils continually draws a fair bit of power, which goes through big transistors in the ecu. They're probably overheating and shutting down.
That said, I don't think it's reasonable to expect the ecu to drive the coils continually when you're not trying to start the bike. If I was coding it, I'd put a timeout in for self preservation.
Makes sense to me (both comments). Bolted down is an easy check. It is common on computer controlled cars to cut power when not running or cranking. If you tested yours while not cranking, try it cranking. Or maybe someone with a known good bike could test theirs after 10 seconds of no cranking, key on. I would, but mine is a carbie.
Trying another ecu is not an option unfortunaly since none of my friends rides a monster.
The coils dont run the whole time. They have 12v when you turn the key on and while pump priming and then 0. Then when you press the start button the voltage comes back.
I will check if it's bolted correctly and report back.
Quote from: mantzas on July 14, 2013, 12:43:10 AM
Trying another ecu is not an option unfortunaly since none of my friends rides a monster.
The coils dont run the whole time. They have 12v when you turn the key on and while pump priming and then 0. Then when you press the start button the voltage comes back.
I will check if it's bolted correctly and report back.
the coils are on the same circuit as the fuel pump, so they are only powered when the ecu is initially turned on or receiving a signal from the rotation sensor. so what you describe is correct.
Checked the ecu and is fully bolted, no bent pins or aything.
Ideas??
Did you read Brad Black's post?
Yes we are saying the same thing.
In my case though if 10 secs have passed and I press the start button no current goes to the coils.
if you press and hold the start button and the engine cranks you should then have power at the coils, injectors and fuel pump. if there isn't power at any of them then I would suspect the rotation sensor. if there is power at the pump then look at the relays. look at the relays anyway, and test them with a test light on the output. a relay clicking means nothing.
Yeah i thought of that sensor too, but everything else works as it should. I pushed start button with wot and saw fuel squirting in the throttle bodies.
I also have replaced the ralays with eachother, nothing changed.
Got to the dealer to buy an oil pressure sensor and asked him to plug it in the diagnostic.
It showed tps, engine rpm, air temp sensors failed.
How possible is that all of them go bad the same time?
I guess they might got bad when i power washed it but then I disconnected all of them and sprayed them with contacts spray.
So we erased the faults from the memory and I'll go back after 2-3 days to see if they come back.
Went back to the dealer and the diagnostic didnt show any faluts this time.
Any ideas anyone??
have you tried to start it with a screw driver? let me explain: at the starter coil, with the kill sensor ON, gear NEUTRAL, just in case you have the kickstand sensor activ, and key at ON, with a screw driver, jump start it, tip of the screwdriver on left bolt and at the same time touch right bolt, if it starts or at least turn the engine, etc, then you have an electrical make the beast with two backsed up start sensor, just like the one I had... if it starts, come back and let me know for the 2nd part of the fix... another possibility: have you checked your fuel hoses? at the base of the tank, as stupid at it could sound I put new hoses and for an unknown reason they bent and no gas was flowing to the engine or back...