Smart fellas,
I have a problem with my headlight, it quit working! Nothing on either high beam or low beam, however if I pull the flash to pass trigger the both work as normal.
Where does that indicate the problem is?
Mark
1. Fuse EDIT: sorry, thought they had separate fuses..
2. (expert will comment) (wiring?)
Pretty sure you'll find it's either in the switch itself, the connector from the switch to the lamp, or the harness.
Fuse 'should' be OK if the lamp lights at all.
*Both* high and low beams come on when you pull the 'flash' trigger, and *both* are off otherwise?
If I have the switch set to low beam and pull the trigger only the low beam comes on. If I have the switch set to high beam and I pull the trigger both the high beam and low beams come on.
Mark
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=62505.0 this thread points towards connectors and relays.....
I suspect I'll have more info shortly, as I've gotten an M1100 in with no high beam.
The headlight wire harness connector burned out on my 1100. The connector is defective from the factory and was replaced under warrenty. Not sure if the you are having the same issue..
http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=67705.msg1251826#msg1251826
Dan, after reading your thread I went and look at my plastic connectors and I don't SEE any indication of anything having burned the way yours did.
So this leads me to a diagnostic question, and bare with me, I am NOT an electrical engineer! Using my multimeter I can check the wires on the BIKE side of the connector, right? But I cannot check the wires that way on the headlight side because there is no juice, right?
Mark
Let me rephrase my question:
If I want to test the main wiring harness side of the connector, do I simply ground the negative lead on the multimeter and check the connections using the positive lead with the multimeter set to 12v?
Is that the way to start?
Mark
[popcorn]
yah sounds right set to 12V DC ground neg to frame and touch pos on connections; but Im no expert
inn-er-estin; I pulled a part that switch recently on a used on a scratched & crashed unit; turned out the metal signal switch was bent inward so it couldn't signal; just carefully took it out bent it back into shape and worked good again, different problem than yours though (but patting myself on my head that I fixed it); but I did get to look inside look; fairly well made and heavy duty wires held in place by screws; check that screws or holders didn pinch / cut the insulation on wires ... at the soddered connections and wires look closely for touching or cuts in the wires ... check the high trigger on the front of the switch.
Do you have a wiring diagram?
I have the service manual Painter.
Is there something specific you are pointing me towards?
Mark
Quote from: Mhanis on January 11, 2017, 06:28:34 PM
I have the service manual Painter.
Is there something specific you are pointing me towards?
Mark
Not really. Just that it's easier to do what you're doing if you have one.
If there is a ground wire in the connector you're testing, it's always a good idea to verify it's doing it's job before going further.
10-4, thank you!
Mark
I really think you're going to find your issue in the first connector, or the switch itself.
I got tired of staring stupidly at my disassembled headlight and brought it in to the dealer; apparently it was an easy fix as I wasn't charged for any parts, just 1 hour labor to troubleshoot and repair a "loose connection on the headlight relay".
$100 seems a lot to fix a loose wire, but knowing where the loose wire is is worth the $100.
It works, I'm happy. [Dolph]
Mark