Ducati Monster Forum

Finally starting this project. Nearly bought a Scrambler Icon, but the ergos didnt suit the GLW. Shame as it was a cracker. Oh well, to the cheap option. Picked up a low miles, 1999 M750 in good condition with plenty of extras. The bike was lavished with hi quality carbon and DP parts. Some extras will be kept like the round, old school alloy Termi mufflers and some sold to put toward suspension work. Termis snuck their way over to my old 900. Sneaky.

Will fit MT60RS tyres tomorrow and order new belts. Have put the bike back to stock for inspection and replaced rusty bolts. Fitted a spare Shorai battery and instantly dropped 5 kilos. I plan to raise front and rear ride heights equally, fit a universal bash plate and fit MX bars with longer lines. The carbs have the oil heater kit so I will wrap the manifolds in exhaust insulation wrap and fit pod filters with outerwear bags for extra protection. I'll use some ported BDST38 carbs with a Factory Pro jet kit and Mikuni single cable, quick turn throttle.

The bike comes with an extensive history and was purchased from Moto One where Brad Black used to work, so thats reassuring [thumbsup] It comes with lots of documentation.

The carb set up with pods and bags will allow quick access and repairs in the boonies should I get a bad batch of fuel. My modified Sargent seat will be used as this is the designated pillion bike. This M750 Scrambler will be used for wet conditions, dirt roads, fire trails and holiday exploration. Im thinking about removing one of the front discs and changing the M/C to suit. Not sure.

Pics soon.

 [evil] [popcorn]

My early tank holds 4.75 Yankee Gallons.
IIRC it's '94 '95 that had either the filter or the valve on the frame?

The M750s were single disc until 2000 and has been, probably still is one of quickest 60MPH-0 according to Motorcycle Consumer News.  The 750 should be great dirt engine.  I'll be watching this thread [popcorn]

Yeah it seems 93 had filter on frame and 94 fuel tap on frame. The 93-94 tanks appear about 1.5 litres larger compared to the 16.5 litre tanks. My 94 M900 holds 18 very handy litres. I'd say this 99-2000 bike has the 16.5 litre tank and I picked up a Briggs and Stratton in line fuel tap for it today. After rego inspection I'll ditch the vacuum tap.
I have no idea when the cut off times exactly were. I've only based my view on what I've seen between 94 and 95 tanks and stuff I've read. ;D

Interesting info Howie

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The victim in question.

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It came with goodies, DP tach/dash option. It is beautiful but not up to dirt roads imo. I will fit stock dash and either sell this for (you guessed it), suspension work or put it on the old girl. I'll try and fit up a trimmed universal bash plate.
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Big sis is the beneficiary of old school round Termis which are period DP parts for the old girl. Sound awesome but not too loud, just very deep bass. The brushed alloy cans match the silver-blue paint job. Gotta replace a scratched sticker. Nostalgia.

This bike is a MY06/1999 cusping to 2000 until the axel fork change sometime in 2000-2001. We must have got twin disks earlier like the Europeans. The older tank allows the GLW Special Sargent Customized Seat to fit straight on with no gaps. I really am tempted to remove a disc once inspection is passed.

I'm leaving the full big ass tail section to catch dirt, mud and rocks. I figured the wobbly plastic hugger was better for my purposes as the beautiful carbon one would crack with a trapped rock between it and the wheel. Wobbly is good.

Mucking around with MX bars at present and I'll finally get somewhere when the bike is having tyres fitted and inspected at the shop which also has a lot of dirt bike stuff and good knowledge among staff.  Speaking of tyres, the tyres on this bike were 12 years old, an absolute anomaly with this otherwise very well kept bike. Pirelli MT60RS in 160/60/17 & 120/70/17 will be fitted, these are standard on the Scrambler. I was going to get Conti TKC70's, but they are easily $100 more for the pair. Some rough but serviceable Remus carbon cans will go on after inspection which leave some room for the GLW to have adjustable footpegs. The pipes are rough and this is fine. I was scoping out hi rise pipes at Jeff Higgy's Mosterparts shop, but I gotta see what I can do to tuck them in and exhaust wrap 'em to not cook the GLW. A customer has hi rise Termis, so maybe he'll take my Staintunes and Remus in trade. I thought about a low tucked in 2-1 too.

Bike looks great!

My 96 had the valve on the frame with the filter mounted to the tank bottom.

It is also well over 4 gallons. It's never been completely empty so I don't know the actual capacity.

I believe the tank from a 99/2K is slightly less capacity, even though the seat cutout is the same as the very early bikes.

This will be interesting topic.....  [popcorn]

My 96 was equipped with a vacuum valve from the factory.

My recollection is the only year that had a manual valve was '93. I'm likely wrong. :P

I've seen manual taps on 94 and 95 models, not sure about 96. Could be a market difference as I've never seen an evap canister here on models that had them in the US. We lagged behind with braided lines too.

A question guys. In your experience how high on the rear heim joints can you go (threads showing) before running into clearance issues with the bell crank linkage? I have always followed the thread rule but I'm talking about the amount of thread showing to measure ride height. I generally haven't exceeded 10mm higher at the heim joint but a mate has run nearly 20mm which has got to be pushing it. What are your calculations on the ratio of heim joint adjustment to ride height at the axel? I make it at 2.5 to 1. Is there a difference to this ratio between steel and alloy swing arms?
Another question, do you dirt guys find a front fairing distracting or an impediment to vision of the ground immediately in front of the bike? I'm thinking that at 5'8" I need an unobscured view of potential potholes ruts etc on rougher tracks/fire roads .

Good question about the heim joints.  I know people have used longer joints successfully.  Maybe you could figure it out without the shock in place?  Dunno.  As far as the fairing goes, no problem for this inseam challenged person.

Steel and alloy arms have same pivot point dimensions AFAIK.

I'd say run without the fairing.
If you fold the front, the bike'll fall right on it and squash it.
And you do need a clear view for slow uphill riding in rocks.

I just fitted a set of KTM official handguards to a 690 Duke, they were very nice pieces.
Good to have something for protection from bushes and saplings, and helps minimize control damage in lowsides.

Rule of thumb is 1.5x diameter for heim joint engagement of the mating piece.
IIRC, Axle/Rod ratio is ~ 2.5-3:1 but it's been a long time since I fiddled with them.

I think your *real* limit on heim joint position/shock length/etc is having the top run of the chain start sawing the rub strips up in short order.

The period-correct Ohlins can be made longer-travel with the new seal head.
I set mine up to just have the rocker barely clear the seat/tank support bracket.

For the purpose of simplicity, good airflow to the rear cylinder, easy tuning, easy maintenance and easy roadside trouble shooting, I elected to fit K&N pod filters with outer filter skins and a seperate battery carrier and platform for ignition components. This comprised of the rear section of a spare oem battery box/airbox assembly. The use of a spare Shorai LFX14 coming in at 750gm means no need for extra bracing and the stock location for the coils and ignition boxes is handy. Shorai Jr easily turns the bike over with stock compression.
I am happy with the close to stock jetting from the Factory Pro kit (edit: jetting was stock) already installed and dont want to go big on the jetting with hi flowing airbox mods. Pods will require some jetting changes and larger pods even more so, with that in mind I'm trying some smaller cone shaped pods I picked used and some "Filterskins" which are similar to K&N outerwear bags but are of a medium which requires dirt bike filter oil to be effective. The skins are white and are coloured blue by the Ipone brand filter oil. Edit: The skins are now K&N filter oil pink. Between the oiled K&N elements and oiled filter skins there should be enough restriction to not require any radical rejetting. Probably doesn't flow air as well as a stock airbox, so I'll be doing plug chops to see. Never thought I'd see the day when I wanted an intake that did not flow more air.

The small Shorai battery allows room in the battery box for spare ignition units, call me paranoid.

Since the carbs have the oil heater kit, I'll try to help it work effectively by covering the oil cooler in cold weather and wrapping the manifolds with exhaust wrap.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1850/43723629445_d84e911e10_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29BH2J6)20180912_185701 (https://flic.kr/p/29BH2J6) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

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Showing the blue stained filter skins, comparison between the high flowing K&N barrel filters and outer covers Vs the smaller K&N pods with filterskins infused with tacky filter oil. Edit: Washed the filterskins clean and reoiled them with K&N filter oil to be compatible with the filter oil in the K&N pods underneath. This will avoid the chance of incompatible oil clagging the pods.
Plenty of room for ignition spares each side of where the little LFX14 Shorai will fit.
The cleaner and less cluttered set up will allow for more hand room since the extra plumbing of the oil heater kit to the float bowls really does reduce easy access.

Also decided to remove the bikini fairing as per Speeddog's advice as I'll go for a minimalist approach.

You’ve been quite busy Bro!

Keep the pics coming.

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Pirelli MT60 RS  160/60/17

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Despite all the hours of work, it looks incredibly stock. The lean angle on the side stand gives away the extra ride height giving plenty of clearance for dirt roads.

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Modified Sargent seat with Airhawk pad for the GLW.
The DP mirrors are too fancy for this bikes purpose.

Dirtbike indicators (nice and rubbery so she cant kick them off when climbing aboard), raised ride height an even 30mm front and back, stock dash, simplified intake and battery box with storage of spare ignition units next to the 750gm Shorai battery. Open area under tank for better airflow to the rear cylinder when riding trails on hot days. Manifolds wrapped in exhaust insulation Covered oil cooler and the oil heating kit turned on for cold days.

To Do: Suspension testing and tuning, settle on MX bars and fit Barkbuster "Storm" guards, test state of tune, modify a generic bash plate, fit Remus pipes, fit lower passenger pegs.

Will test ride tomorrow, first by myself and then with the pillion in a million.

Amazing thread, I love seeing scrambler mods to the Monster line.  I’m thinking of doing one to a 2013 Monster 696, as it sustained some damage to the front end after an accident. Figure, part it out or mod it to a scrambler. 

Unknown on how significant a rebuild this will be as the damage is pretty bad (e.g. cracked frame, etc).

Will evaluate and decide, but this thread has me inspired!

Lookin good [thumbsup]

She’s a beauty Bro!

Thank you, will do.

And for sure, been sourcing replacement frames/triple trees, so it will certainly be a labor of love.  But it had a lot of great upgrades before, like MIVV exhaust, Sargent seat, etc.


And I suppose if the total price to redo comes under the price of a used Scrambler Icon, I’ll still be in the black. (And winter’s coming up so it will be a good time to work on it.)

So true! If you’re riding 2-up, then both have to be comfortable or it’s not a good time for anyone.

Half price is a sweet price for a dirt-friendly Ducati.

Damn it, I just found a replacement frame AND full front-end (forks, triple tree, and front axle set) on eBay for the right price and pulled the trigger for my 696 scrambler conversion.

Looks like my winter project is locked in now.  All thanks to you!  Cheers!


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http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=73379.msg1351052#msg1351052

 [clap]

How did the GLW enjoy it?

The only times I really hungered for more power was on high speed sweepers and when following superbikes.  Suspension still stock? 

Excellent!

The GLW is pretty comfy on this bike.

Have some spare Rizoma tapered bar adapters which not only let me use a Pro Taper MX bar with more height and sweep, but give a little more height. May switch to single disc and use a spare braided clutch line that should reach with an appropriate M/C. Will use some more aggressive sintered pads for a little more bite to help stopping power. Any reason to have a single front disc on one side verses the other? I note the factory put it on the left side.

I think in the northern hemisphere the factory put them on the other side. :P

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I finally committed to a single front disc. Looking for a PS13 master cylinder now. Waiting on an SS guard I picked up on ebay to give the forks a little more protection. I'll block the holes in the wheel with some bolts.

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Full steam ahead BooBoo!

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Barkbusters are on order. Must have lost a few kilos removing the RHS disc and caliper, gigantic battery, airbox, oem pipes, seat cowl and bikini fairing.

Any thoughts on running a single front disc? I have gone to a braided line from the oem rubber lines  (spare clutch line), and have some very aggressive sintered pads to try which were too aggressive for twin discs.  My guess is that these parts should help braking power with a single disc.

This is looking really good!

Any thoughts on moving to spoked wheels now that you have one of the discs removed? That would set the scrambler look into overdrive (and overpriced!) since you’d be able to see that front wheel in all its glory from the right hand side.

Alpina has some good choices I’ve found—but addl weight could be an issue vs stock.

Really coming together though, looks amazing.

I've not seen or heard a reason for left vs right side on a single disc setup.

I ran my M750 with a single disc for a while, wasn't really happy with it on the left side, but that was the caliper I had....
Looks wise, I like em better on the right, matches the disc on the rear.
And it's easier to inspect as well...

Cheers. I just went with pics of single disc M600/750's I'd seen. It's great to get easy access to the tyre valve, saves me buying a right angle valve. Tight arse Tuesdays ;D

Tire valve, there you go, that is a reason.

The standard 5-spoke Brembo wheels are lighter than the 3-spokers.
But they never did a 5-spoke in a 4.5".
And a 5.5" 5-spoker weights ~same as 4.5" 3-spoke.

Sounds like the original design brief of the Monster- raid the parts bin!

Double thumbs up!

I don't know the weight difference, but the older three spoke Brembos are heavier than the later three spokes.

Paying credit where it's due, I got inspired by Nibor's M750. After test riding it and pushing it around the workshop, I was impressed with the lack of weight and the urban enduro styling he chose for the build. Nibor's bike has hi comp pistons, mild porting, FCR39's, Termi's, airbox mods, light flywheel, SS guard and Barkbusters. It was impressive to ride. Nibor has lavished it with IMA triple clamps and risers, adjustable forks, fresh frame and wheel paint and Ohlins rear shock. He put many hours into it and I honestly thought it was a waste of time putting that much effort into a 750, but I was wrong. These motors have a sweet balance that can be worked with.

You were so right about the 750 being a good motor for this application, Thanks Howie.

I do miss the old seven fiddy in NYC traffic.  Ability to run at a lower RPM, less engine heat, and, though I love the dry clutch...  Anyway, is there an economical way to give that bike more rake?

I've raised the front and rear 30mm, maybe I can put the rear back to stock? Or maybe get cap extensions and raise the front another 20-30mm?

19' front wheel  ;D

How would a 19” wheel do on the Monster frame/rake/trail I wonder?  Increased chance of tank-slappers or other weirdness?

Yes, I was being cheeky.  No way would this be a low budget mod.  This could be an interesting topic in it's own thread though.

I get the ribbing, but am totally down to dig into the possibilities.  As mentioned earlier in this fascinating thread, the original spirit of the Monster is a parts-bin bike that just happened to be magical.  I love thinking about it as a platform, thus my curiosity.

Excited to hear how it does on the dirt roads!

My GC900 has a 19" front, even fitted with a TKC-80 it's not very flash on loose dirt and is impossible in deep sand.
My riding buddy with much less dirt experience did fine in the same conditions with the same model tire fitted to the 21" front of his KTM950ADV.
His KTM is a real dirt weapon, for sure.
I ascribe about a 50/50 split between bike and wheel diameter for the loose soil prowess.

I've not ridden with aggressive 17" tires on dirt.
I've ridden street 17" tires on dirt with my monster and you just go slow, but no deep loose soil for sure.

On a dirt road that you wouldn't hesitate to take a car onto, 19" are fine.

I've ridden 2-stroke dirt bikes ranging from 83cc to 400cc in sand, and 4-strokes 175cc-600cc.
Every time I moved to a larger diameter wheel it was a significant improvement in deep loose soil and sand performance.
I never had a bike with a 23" tire, those are probably super in the sand.
They're just so gigantic, it's difficult to make a 'normal' bike with one, and a choice of only one tire isn't so attractive.

I'd do more dirt, but I really would have to work a good bit to make my bike more crashable.
It just doesn't feel like a full or near full tank will survive a hard drop, to me.
I've got a 1stGen tank, so it's the big one.

The clearance between 19" tire and the H cylinder head with the front forks fully bottomed is a problem.
That seems to be the issue on the dual sports starting from Monsters.
Steering head is just in the wrong spot.

This would be *so* much easier if we were in the same hemisphere.

Tons of great info, thank you!

Hmmm...Cagiva wheel.  If the axle size is the same and you could figure out a way to mount the stock brake that could be a low budget upgrade.

Since I don't ride dirt on purpose do take what I say with a grain of salt.  Front lifted a little higher should make the bike handle slower, but maybe a little more stable.  I think if any problems like wallow occur the front could just be lowered.  I also think the added gyroscopic effect from the heavier rim should help off road too.

My old bike handled very well overall, but real low speed full lock not so good.  The new bike with 1⁰ rake and a hefty rake increase of 2mm does notably better at low speed full lock.  Far from a revelation since there are so many other differences.

Miraculous improvement over stock?  I wouldn't expect that  I'm thinking scrambler, not dual sport.

I look forward to a spin myself at some point down the track, no pun intended!

It’s looking great!

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I chose function over form, and you thought oem Mickey Mouse mirrors were ugly..
These Barkbusters are as ugly as a hat full, but they are very protective. There are other Barkbuster guards that are smaller and more sleek, but these not only protect your hands and controls from branches but are a barrier on cold days. When you're getting arthritis, this is important. I could have gone for a more hipster scrambler look but this is function first.

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Tried to fit an SS guard, but it wouldn't clear the hi profile tyre. That 70 profile MT60RS is tall. The guard was too nice to drill and I couldn't be stuffed making an alloy adaptor so I put it aside and ran the stocker. I'll have to get some fork sock type protectors that Velcro on. Edit: The SS guard will be stronger in my view so maybe I'll have to get off my arse and make an adaptor bracket.

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You can see the coverage here which is important since this is also the winter bike.
A mate and I once rode down to Yea on a 30F day. We were fine until we ran across a misty plain and the temp went down to 20F. He said his ST2's temp gauge plummeted as we rode through the mist. Both of us recall our knuckles hurting for a week.

cheap and functional:
http://www.biker.ie/forum/showthread.php?t=218828&page=2
Scroll down

On a more serious note, maybe something like this  https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/74265  or a gaiter.

Try using a washer, or two, between the fender and fork on the upper hole. It will raise the fender enough to fit the 70 series tire. ;)

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Quick mock up after succumbing to the cutting wheel.



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Had a hit out ln a nearby dirt road. It was hard packed dirt with a layer of gravel which is a pretty common combination around here. The bike handled it pretty well as an easy first test with the tyres and wide bars giving a lot of security. I'm glad I removed a disc and softened the shock, because accelerating is one thing and stopping is another. The very tall profile front tyre helps.
The bike feels very light with carbon pipes and the small Shorai battery, and with the airbox, seat cowl, bikini fairing (and brackets), rhs disc and caliper removed.

Any tips appreciated.

This dirt riding adventure will teach you what a rear brake is for. ;)

For sure. :)
I used it on the track to help me get turned, but rarely on the street except for stability (and riding HDs). My Hyper strangely led me to use it more on the street, but that might be because I took it onto dirt roads for the first time.
A great thing about this sport is that no matter how long you've been riding or how old you are, you never stop learning. I'm quite excited to learn a different angle.

A good mate is a strong dirt rider and I introduced him to road and track riding, so he can return the favour. [thumbsup]

I would consider fabbing some sort of bracket to get more space between the front tire and fender.  Mud can pack in wet stuff.  Maybe some sort of extension on the rear brake lever and some grippy foot pegs. 

Hmm. Even if the SS guard fitted it would have been close as they're a close wrap. I have thought about swapping the pegs for a broader MX type or early non rubber coated type. Servicing the rear caliper to avoid drag and improve it's performance is also on my list.

Did your 750 have much engine braking? I strongly suspect a light flywheel in this bike as it's quite spritely with more engine braking than I expected. The flywheel edge visible in the timing window looks polished and chamfered.

Good engine braking.  More than I would expect from a low compression motor.  Bike really felt like a small valve 900.  I'm trying to remember if the flywheel was chamfered.  I think so.

If you remove the rubber from your stock pegs you will find them like the Monster Dark pegs.

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Final iteration of the summer set up with different hand guard plastics on the same frames. Barkbuster supply alternative plastics which is an economical way to change between seasons.

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Still has protection from branches and falling, but with a smaller profile in summer.

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Pretty much how she'll stay but for some fine tuning of the carbs and some yet to be determined suspension work.
Thanks to all for their advice and tips.
Cheers.

Looks great Bro!

Have any good pics of how you attached your bash plate?

I forgot to mention, there is a box of random plastic bash plates at the local dirtbike shop that I'll check out tomorrow. The threaded holes in the cylinders the SS models bolt their fairing brackets to are good candidates for fixing points.

Interested in seeing what you come up with.

Can't say for sure, but probably.  Bike geared down? 

Such great work—can’t wait to hear about (and see pics) of it as your summer starts. More pics of it in the wine country pls!

Winter’s almost here where I live, which means project season is about to start. 

Those Barkbusters are perfect, they look awesome!  [beer]

I would expect that if it feels like it's got a lightweight flywheel, it does.
Even when I lightened mine, it wasn't like "WOW !!! ZORG !!! ITS SO LIGHT !!!", more like " Hrmm.... well..... a bit better I suppose."

I think really all you need is something on there to take the small rocks/dirt/gravel spray coming up from the front tire.
There's no handy strong mount on the front of the engine.
IMO you can hang the plate off those front cylinder brackets, but I wouldn't ask them to take much push straight up from the bottom.
IIRC those are 10mm holes, makes it a bit deceptive really.

People talk about low end torque being so important on a dirt bike.
It is true, it's important, .... if you're on a 250 or smaller.
My GC could spin the TKC-80 *at will* up to 60mph or so, on any dirt surface I found.
Lower speed, coming off corners, it had *way* more grunt available than the tire could put to the ground.
Made throttle control an issue.
I'm not buying that whole "W-head for better off road performance" thing, it's a sham at 900cc.
I can't imagine how the big hyper-trailies would work without RBW.
I'd say the 750 will be great.

Thanks for your advice and comments fellas, I appreciate others experience I can draw on.

I'll add updates and ride impressions  as I go.
Cheers

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1970/44921511541_bc26f12dfc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bryukF)20180925_213423 (https://flic.kr/p/2bryukF) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Pegs for the pillion in a million

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1931/44871854692_b35d88edd8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bnaZ67)IMG_1330 (https://flic.kr/p/2bnaZ67) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Started with something for the novice.


Then something a little more difficult.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1943/44921476101_45fbc18aef_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bryiND)IMG_1327 (https://flic.kr/p/2bryiND) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Well, for me anyway.  ;D

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1926/31048564738_10dc382b05_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PiE1zG)IMG_1328 (https://flic.kr/p/PiE1zG) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Limestone and gravel and hard packed dirt and clay roads  are what I had in mind.
This region has many of them. This works it's way through the Ferntree Gully National Park from the Silvan Dam Park, Victoria Australia.

Looks like fun!

How’d it go?

No bash plate as yet?

Good stuff! Looks right at home on that trail.

Cheers. [thumbsup]

15/41 is standard gearing for 750, I usually buy 750 chain/sprockets package for my 900.

You've got too heavy a bike with too little grip to do these sorts of lean angles on dirt, but they're illustrative of body position.

Having a bit less success with the corner entry photos, bike and rider position looks odd and generally not photographed much....

Mid corner, right elbow bent a lot, body near upright, inside leg up and forward

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1919/44017886255_a6b3a66734_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2a4Hb2n)left corner mid sumo YZ-supermoto-extreme-lean (https://flic.kr/p/2a4Hb2n) by speeddog8308300 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/79721557@N02/), on Flickr

If you Google 'roger decoster' images, he's nearly always in proper body position, and many of the pics are from the short-travel era, so more appropriate to riding a scrambler.

A Belgian Mick Doohan of MX.  Thanks. The opposite elbow is bent down for corners. I only do that in a chicane at Broadford track (the esses). So thats normal on dirt? Ok.

It's like I've boxed all my life and taken up wrestling.

Just weighed and compared components. Changing the pipes and battery, removing a disc, brake line junction and caliper, running pods, lighter mirrors, fairing and brackets and removing the seat cowl has dropped about 14kg. The Barkbusters, risers and alloy bar swap put back a kilo, so about 13kg net which is a 28 pound weight loss, half from right under the tank and 3 kilos off the front end. Not bad and noticable.
Have to say I'm glad I chose a 750 for this task as my modified M900 feels brutal on dirt roads and in the wet both power delivery and suspension wise. Wise guidance here prevailed. Cheers.

Nice.  Bet the bike is real nimble.

Yeah, steers beautifully and in a predictable, linear fashion. Arcs quite smoothly through the apex of a corner with little effort.
It's a joy to ride. I can't get over how sweet the motor is. :)

Have you rode with a passenger yet? 

Yes. The GLW has been on the back a few times now and it has been great. Between the upright riding position. lower pegs and custom seat the ergos have suited us. I have only ridden two up on paved roads so far. The suspension feels good two up on paved roads, but needs work for the trails.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1968/45028329821_27954cf08f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bAZXGa)IMG_1344 (https://flic.kr/p/2bAZXGa) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Since the SS guard didn't fit the tyre, this was the protection I settled for.

That'll work.

Do they come off easily to check for dirt that's made it's way in?

Yes, just Velcro on and off to wash them and check underneath. [thumbsup]
Being soft neoprene they kind of squish up and down with the fork like a gaiter but are in contact with the forks like a skin.

I have no recollection of the jetting on my 750, but do remember using Dynojet needles with Factory Pro needle jets..  I also recall going richer on the pilots to make up for the seized idle mixture screws, going back to stock after finding used bodies with functioning idle screws.  If my memory is correct our carbs were set leaner than yours.  Cold running was ridiculous. Never got around to trying stock springs.

Oh, the main jets,needle and clip position was whatever Dynojet recommended for stage II.

 [thumbsup]

I looked that up for open airbox and pipes 'stage 2". DJ mains at 148 (Mikuni 138), 729 needle at #3 [thumbsup]. I'm using FP needles for a 900 which are leaner than the DJ 730 needles for 900's and closer to DJ 729 needles.

I thought you gave me the tip about stock springs in a 750? Maybe it was Speeddog. I guess Lofgren likes them so that's something.

I'm shocked, checking my records I've been running the FCRs on my 750 for 5 years.

I've only used FP stuff as a complete kit, not done any mix-n-match.

I did my M750 Mikunis with an FP kit, and they worked so good that in a weak moment I decided to leave them be (rather than continue fiddling and make them worse).
FP Kit with floats at 14mm, #45 PJ, #135 Main, Needles on 2nd clip and fuel screw 3 turns is what my notes say.

 ;D

Well, I appreciate all the advice from you blokes.

No,it was me.  Just never got around to doing it on my bike.

  ;D

I remembered that I had to carve away a bit at the inside of the rocker for it to clear the shock body.
And I still had to run a bit more preload than I wanted, such that the castle ring wouldn't hit.
It really did help a lot, though.
Extra travel at the wheel, and more progression through the stroke.
OTOH, I grew up on dirt bikes, so long travel is like warm cookies to me. YMMV

All the 90's era bumpstops I see are perished stale bread, or nothing at all.
Seems hard to talk folks into doing a repair on that.

I've not done any sort of travel increase on the 41mm forks.
I've done revalve and respring on them, and they turned out nice.
Sometimes replacing bushings is necessary as they get fuxxored on removal.
Check to make sure the bushing fit is OK....
I had a set of aftermarket replacement ones that would have been a permanent assembly if I had managed to get them together and just flat ruined otherwise.
Luckily I caught something seemingly dodgy and measured before hammering.

I would imagine theres some sort of cartridge from a Japanese ADV bike or ? that would be workable, yes?
It's astonishing how an added inch of suspension travel really can improve the ride.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1971/45062458492_1ba7cb47c3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bE1SXw)IMG_1361 (https://flic.kr/p/2bE1SXw) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Since the carbs now have a jet kit fitted, I thought I'd test how it runs with these larger K&N barrel filters with outerware prefilter bags.

Night ride through the mountains - yeeessss!

Thumbs up!

 [thumbsup]

So  it wasn't my imagination. I can see through the timing window that the flywheel is one of these minimalist alloy types. Rather than just an alloy copy of the stock conical shape like the DP version, it's a machined down alloy version with relocated advance marks. It is shaped like the single phase light flywheel but with the spline fitting for the later motor, so even lighter compared to the DP part. I thought this bike went well!

Anyone have this one?

This one?

http://www.ducati-kaemna.com/schwungrad-ergal-900-ab-98-vergaser-monster.html

That's the one [thumbsup]

Anyone know what the stock cranking cylinder pressures would be?

Official service manual for 3ph carbie 750;

Engine warm, throttle wide open, crank til it stops going up.
8 bar minimum, 9-11 bar standard, max difference between cylinders 2 bar.

So 118 psi minimum, 132-162 standard, max difference 30 psi.

I'd be a bit concerned with a difference of 30 on cranking pressure.

My 750 clatters quite noticeably, but it's run ages making the same racket.

My thumbnail conclusion is they don't run hard enough to hurt themselves as long as basic maintenance standards are kept.

Mine had  piston slap on a cold start.  The bike probably has about 100K miles on it.  I do remember somebody (speeddog maybe?) said some 750s had forged pistons.  The manual does indeed say a 2 bar difference between cylinders.  Yeah, I'd be concerned too.

I've put 45k on top of the original 11k, if that perilously 2nd hand speedo was to be believed.

It's less clattery when it gets hot.
Allegedly forged pistons, IIRC Brad Black had the info.

My injected 750 sounded like it was coming apart. It did eventually. :P

A lot of the noise is 'fin ring'. Put some hockey pucks back in. ;)

But they keep falling out.
Should I use new ones?

I wonder how many of us have felt the rear tire twitch running one of those over.

New ones will stay in longer. The rubber does dry out causing shrinkage and subsequent disappearance.

I can happily report that both cylinders are a healthy stock 160+psi allowing regular (cheap) gas. They were within a PSI of each other. Who'd a thought I would be chuffed about stock compression :D

Nice!  If you want a stock flywheel I'm sure someone would want to trade.  I would keep the high comps as long as regular gas is not a problem.

Did you see any flakes on the screen, or in the oil, when you serviced it?

Fin ring tends to diminish with engine temp. It never completely goes away, but it's noticeably worse when cold.

Clean as a whistle [thumbsup].
Cranking comp numbers are quite healthy and consistent. It's also an oil tight and very clean running motor which  backs up the view that the later castings, pistons and rings were an improvement.

Picked up some bars with more sweep/pull back to the rider and a half to one inch more height. They were used but like new for 50 bucks off a Ducati Scrambler. I think these bars are common to the Sixty-2 and Full Throttle models. Close to perfect. I gave my Pro Taper bars to my buddy to try out on his Hyper 1100 Evo. An expensive misjudgement on my part, but bars are like that.

What I was expecting behind the alternator
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1906/43620722640_0e65c61712_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29sBB7Q)20181013_220618 (https://flic.kr/p/29sBB7Q) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr



What was actually in there, (but a polished version). Edit: looks like a Kamna or Yoyodyne version.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1941/43620730790_893a4b181b_q.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29sBDxm)images (1) (https://flic.kr/p/29sBDxm) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Hoping it's a machined down stocker or alloy part with a steel centre insert.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1909/44713439774_490dcdee9d_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2b8b4Rq)20181020_095731 (https://flic.kr/p/2b8b4Rq) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

More rise

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1929/31562723328_8d6b70fdd4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Q66d1Y)20181020_095801 (https://flic.kr/p/Q66d1Y) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

More pull back/sweep

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1955/30497644367_f494b0de34_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/NsYp9B)20181020_100049 (https://flic.kr/p/NsYp9B) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Bars are half inch longer each end and offer even more protection for the mirrors and tank in a fall.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1901/31562700688_84ab0566c1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Q666hC)20181005_115746 (https://flic.kr/p/Q666hC) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

The K&N barrel filters and bags that protect them. The code for the bags which will also cover RU 1750's

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1954/44523109355_c2b3754d34_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2aQmzft)20181010_204714 (https://flic.kr/p/2aQmzft) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Thanks to Speeddog for putting me onto the K&N site that lets you select parts by dimension, code and model. Bloody handy. [thumbsup]

One of the last pieces of the puzzle. Picked up some cheap spare forks for this model M750 (Marzocchi 40mm). I can now take them to my suspension guy and have a discussion about what's possible. I'm now looking for a Sachs shock to do the same.

Will the old unit from my Monster fit the bill?

The primary issue with the Sachs is the seal head, AFAIK there are no replacements.

However, you are on the other side of the planet, and near New Zealand where I suspect some guy is making new seal heads out of thin air.

Spare set of manky Marzocchis are with Dave at Kroozetune. They will refurbish and tune the forks for my 200lbs, broken tarmac/dirt/wet roads spec and reckon they should be able to get another 10-20mm travel out of them.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4908/31022651957_c39c0d9c17_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PgncBB)IMG_1526 (https://flic.kr/p/PgncBB) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

A start towards engine protection. The modified bashplate will be a major operation as me mate doesn't do things by halves.

Fitted adjustable Brembo levers and some spare Napoleon mirrors. The higher and plush dual touring seat will also stay for solo duties. The bike is getting functionally uglier ;). More pics soon.
The rare and valuable DP mirrors were cleaned , bubble wrapped and put away with the spares.

 [thumbsup]

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4885/44352382530_f867e69925_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2azgy7w)IMG_1569 (https://flic.kr/p/2azgy7w) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4902/32297842928_a8d40c99c9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Rd3TsQ)IMG_1553 (https://flic.kr/p/Rd3TsQ) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4849/32297833768_b8779f1c90_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Rd3QJU)IMG_1571 (https://flic.kr/p/Rd3QJU) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr


Mirrors as big as TV screens.

Update.
Riding this quite a lot and use it on regular rides with the GLW. Fun bike.

Reset rear ride height to low stock posn and raised the front to the max, adding faux rake. No adverse handling on tarmac testing to my surprise. Not as beautifully planted as it was, but still fine. There may have been work done as they feel too good for base Marzocchis. I pushed the Marzocchi's thru the triples to get another 25mm front ride height so the caps were flush to the triple face. That will do until my modified forks are ready.

Had some old Staintune pipes so fitted them for better ground clearance, less weight and a cleaner look. The Staintunes are not Termi light, but lighter than the carbon Remus pipes I removed. The Remus pipes must be carbon skinned stainless as they were heavy for an aftermarket exhaust.

Fitted a slow action throttle for more control on dirt roads. The bike came with a quick action throttle and light flywheel fitted, the combination made for touchy low speed inputs. The motor is otherwise stock but for the intake so its still pretty tame.

Pics to follow.

Ride through the local valley and ranges today on busted up paved back roads, gravel farm roads and packed dirt and clay forest roads. Really enjoying this bike and the different skill acquisition required. The bikes agility on winding clay mountain roads was excellent and a comfort to this bitumen bred rider. And I'll say it again, what a fun little motor. The revs are so eager spinning up with urgency and exhaust note sounding so powerful, but then you look down at the speedo and see you are under the speed limit [laugh]. The 750 is the Chicken Hawk to the 900's Foghorn Leghorn. ;D
So much fun.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48239013111_2e8eb48085_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2guHxYB)20190707_113533 (https://flic.kr/p/2guHxYB) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Winter fairing (el cheapo brand) that will come off for summer.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48239096582_2576557cc2_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2guHYML)20190707_113422 (https://flic.kr/p/2guHYML) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48238979326_45979cb951_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2guHnW7)IMG_2255 (https://flic.kr/p/2guHnW7) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Rizoma risers not only allow a tapered bar, but aid comfort as do the gel grips. Knarly fingers and bone spurs in the palm heels need the comfort nowdays.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48239000601_2d79a28d33_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2guHufV)IMG_2264 (https://flic.kr/p/2guHufV) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Went back to the Mickey Mouse mirrors and will sell off the Napoleon TV screens. Trimmed the extra inch off each end of the oem Ducati Scrambler bars (lucky ebay score). All to do with ergos and comfort. The raised front ride height came from the forks being pushed through the triples to the max, so I fitted an extended side stand.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48238984286_02eb4dfbc9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2guHppC)IMG_2258 (https://flic.kr/p/2guHppC) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48238982001_769f3ef81c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2guHoJe)IMG_2257 (https://flic.kr/p/2guHoJe) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Old Staintunes fitted with intermediate DB killers, not too loud and not too quiet. The next size down in DB killers make these homolgated as per the ADR plate on the inside of each muffler.

My bro rode the bike today and also liked the ergos and felt comfortable with the tyre and handling characteristics. It was good to get feedback from a rider with better dirtbike riding credentials. ;D

 [thumbsup]

Running Pirelli MT60RS 120/70/17 & 160/60/17. May try Metzler's new Karoo Street tyres in 120/70/17 & 150/70/17 or 170/60/17 which are nearly a hundred bucks cheaper than the Pirellis and over a hundred less than TKC 70's.

https://www.motorcycletyrewarehouse.com.au/metzeler-karoo-street

Will they do a pair deal on a narrower rear with a 120/17 front?

No special deal I can see, but my local Yamaha shop looks after me.

For some reason Continentals are incredibly expensive here, regularly 100+ bucks more than any other brand. A mate's Tiger 800 came with TKC70's, but although very impressed with their performance he looked elsewhere for replacements. With a 19" front, he saved 150ish on a set with another brand. The TKC 70's were great in the wet.

Metzler recently came to the party with the new Karoo Street providing a 17" front. Before that only 19 and 21 inch Karoo fronts. There are no Karoo Street 160 rears, just a 150 and 170 each side at ten bucks more for the 170. Strange they have a 170 instead of a 160 as I thought 170's were being phased out. The Pirelli MT60RS 160/60/17 looks like a 150 on the Ducati Brembo 4.5" rim. Anyone know if Metzler are on the fat side like Dunlops or more like Pirelli and Michelin?
Before the Karoo Street only Avon (Trailrider), Continental (TKC70) and Pirelli (MT60RS) provided a front 120/70/17 dual sport tyre for our market.
I cant get the Michelin Anakee and Dunlop Trail range in a 17 front tyre. That was quite frustrating as Michelin is my go to mfr, but no 17" fronts. The Anakee 3 range has a horizontal paddle shaped tread pattern which makes me think of sand drag racing.
The US tyre range and prices make me weep. Economies of scale I guess.

...but we can't get a race rain for a 5.5" rim. [bang]

I want to set up the SS I bought as a wet bike, and would invest in full rain tires, but I can't buy one here.

That's amazing.
I heard racers are using the Pirelli MT60RS Corsa's for rain tyres in local SBK. 180 rears.

I found some tuning notes after relocating.

The pod filters in question are K&N RU-0800's. 102mm long, 89mm in diameter and have a short flange with 62mm ID. The short straight flange lets the pods clear the tank and gives air a straighter path to the carb bellmouth. These are better than the RU-1750's because they have a molded in bellmouth or V stack radius for a better transition from the filter edge to the flange, whereas the 1750's have a sharp, right angle.

Just something to consider with pods.

175/55 RX 17 KR404 Rear Dunlop Rain Tire
Intended use for:

    600cc motorcycle rear tire
    Recommended Rim 5.5″ – 6″
    Overall Diameter: 600mm
    Overall Width: 116mm
    45024484

185/55 RX 17 KR404 Rear Dunlop Rain Tire
Intended use for:

    600cc motorcycle rear tire
    1000cc motorcycle rear tire
    Recommended Rim 5.5″ – 6″
    Overall Diameter: 25.43
    Overall Width: 7.36
    45024890

Twist the Throttle With Us!

Was hoping for Michelin's, but that's an option if the 185 doesn't foul the chain.

It'll be close as Dunlops can be a little plump for the size.

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/EN/Products/80381800/Tyre+PIRELLI+MT60+RS+Rear+.aspx?_country=7E3FB874-954B-4F28-924B-72D215E4C463&gpc_origin=shopping&gpc_feed_alias=de&gpc_pid=80381800&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrrXtBRCKARIsAMbU6bE5Ec-oubptDD6cFCqzZjMHNwss4v7QTBTLRRgsAf5s0XW9EWcjNzkaAkr5EALw_wcB

Something like this. On the slimmer side too for chain clearance. There may be a Corsa version still available.

That link goes to an on/off road tire, not a rain.

The stickier Corsa version gets used as a race rain tyre. Worth an enquiry.

Only in Oz. :P

I didn't look at other brands nor am I recommending these tires.  Just that the size does exist.  And, yep, Dunlops are sometimes a little chubby.  Maybe these would work?  https://www.pirelli.com/tires/en-us/motorcycle/all-tires/sheet/diablo-rain    Or  https://www.bridgestone.com/products/motorcycle_tires/products/detail/pr151  I have no idea but a call to them might help.

The MT60RS Corsa in 180/55/17 is $322 AUS plus shipping to New Hampshire  :P.

The Diablo Rain come in 190/60, but not 180. They'd be tall on a 5.5 rim, but there's every chance they're as plump as a 180 Dunlop. Feeling lucky? ;D

Not lately.

That 175 would be good. Would be as fat as a 180 Michy if its true to form.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48946116911_41a4010224_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hzcDir)IMG_2515 (https://flic.kr/p/2hzcDir) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr


Next step is to get a spring for this Ohlins DU440. I'm 200 in shorts, so what do you recommend for my old 750 for scrambler duties? The numbers are no longer visible on the spring but its too soft. What about the oem Sachs progressive spring?

The forks are still not ready, so I hope the chromer hasn't lost them. Since I raised the front and lowered the back, the front feels better in the rough stuff and dirt roads. Went down a steep gravel road today and felt quite ok.

I have a 10.5 on my Monster with the Ohlins, and I'm under 200 fully geared. I'd think an 11.5, or 12. You might try emailing Eric, or Nick might have notes on a 200 pounder.

The stock spring will be too soft.

I knew the spring was too soft as it fell through the stroke too quickly and I was using too much compression damping to compensate.
Bugger, the more correct weight springs in my "spring bank" are all the wrong dimensions. I'll visit my suspension guy and try to scab a used spring.

Edit: I think the oem Sachs spring is too long anyway.

Before you spend money on a spring, check with someone. I'm going by memory, but I'm pretty sure I'm recalling correctly.

Cheers [thumbsup]

I recently had a solid day riding a borrowed Scrambler Icon 800. The bike was an 18-19 model and the suspension, handling, ease of use and smooth engine were a treat. The suspension was very good over rough roads, really soaking up broken tarmac and staying composed. I had read negative reports about the suspension, but maybe this has been resolved on later models. Edit: A recent ride report indeed confirmed changed spring and damping rates for model 2019 giving more compliance and ride quality.

The bike was dead stock and to my surprise it felt very restricted and slow compared to my M750. My M750 has K&N pod filters, jet kit, light flywheel and Staintune slip on pipes. I thought that even a stock Icon 800 should smash my mildly tuned M750. If the Icon was running ok, and it seemed fine and very smooth), then maybe the single throttle body, Y inlet manifold, Euro 4 tune and exhaust Cat have really taken a toll on the 800 motor. The motor was so smooth and easy to use I suspected a heavy flywheel and significant rotating mass of other engine internals.

Overall, despite the surprisingly soft power the bike felt very good on rough back roads and I bet the Icon's motor works great on dirt roads. I was very impressed with the way the suspension used it's 150mm of travel with well controlled damping.

Anyway, just a point of comparison to inform the direction of the M750 project.

Who says Scramblers are just for young hipsters? [clap]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=N0pRIZvax_g

In a few weeks I will take my Evo 1100 to the dyno and the suspension shop is literally next door (very handy). I will have info on the progress and viability of the 750 fork rebuild and an appropriate spring for the DU440. The spare 750 forks were sent to the chroming shop but are not ready. I will have to enquire in person to see if not ready means they are too far gone to rechrome, lost, etc.
Dropping the rear ride height to its lowest position and raising the front to the max on the 750 has made the front feel much better on dirt roads and reduced the fork sag through altered weight distribution. This has increased the available fork travel by unloading them more like a dirt bike, letting them ride higher in the stroke, but it has highlighted the limitations of the Sachs shock. The adjustability of the Ohlins DU440 should give me more options to dial them in to handle the rearward weight distribution. I note that I ride the 750 differently around this altered weight distribution, more in the style of riding my mates DR650 or Tiger 800. If the spare forks cant be fixed then oil weight and levels could be adjusted on the current forks as they feel reasonable being unloaded. The unloaded forks would feel like crap trying to ride sportsbike style by weighting the bars and front tyre and hanging off like on my Evo or Gixxer, instead the pegs and rear tyre are weighted and the bike pushed under the upright rider with the wide, high bars. This is second nature to you dirt guys, but a new skillset for me which is great fun.

This may help  https://www.racetech.com/page/title/FTNK%20Fork%20Tubes

Thanks for the Scrambler video ;D

Ive saved that Howie, thanks mate.

Gotta like the pipe.. ;D

A minor update. My spare forks are part of a back log of parts awaiting attention from an overworked chroming firm. So its kinda ok. I will turn my attention to the Ohlins DU440 I want to fit. I plan to take the spring in on Friday for measurement and to get a replacement spring for my weight. The forks on the bike feel too good to be the stock, crappy 40mm Marzocchis, warranting investigation before I spend money on the spare forks. The previous owner was a man of some means and lavished the bike, so this may explain why the forks aren't so bad.

I increased the main jets to 140's which is on the rich side by one step (138's may have been spot on, but I usually go one more for an extra dollop of fuel), even with pods. I trust my seat of the pants dyno and the better fuels here have appeared to have changed a little.

Edit. I had a spare oem seat modified for the bike.  My auto trimmer guy used my feedback from testing on dirt roads and with a pillion.

I looked at a list of work I completed on the bike so far which does not include maintenance. It is substantial yet the bike is quite stock in appearance. I can only imagine the level of work Duckstew, Speeddog, Buzzer and others have put in to build custom bikes from scratch.

Here is a list:

Custom seat mods x2. 1 x modified Sargent seat (solo and adventure riding), 1 x modified oem seat (pillion).
Vacuum tap delete and manual fuel tap (Briggs & Stratton :D)
Reroute fuel line with Visu filter
Fit fuel hose heat shield tubing

Air box delete, K&N 2780 pod filters with K&N outers
Cut up air box/battery box to support ignition and electricals
Keihin FCR 39 off road carbs
Light Alloy Kaemna Flywheel
CCW Exactfit coils
Staintune exhaust

Ducati Scrambler bars
Fat bar risers (Rizoma)
Gel grips
Single throttle cable mod
Ride height and geometry changes (much experimentation)
Dual sport Tyres (Pirelli MT60RS).
Bark buster guards modified to suit
Enduro style headlight fairing
Exhaust pipe guard
Fork guards
Single front disc and new M/C with braided line, sintered pads
1100 Evo rear 34mm brake caliper with braided line
Adjustable Brembo front brake lever
Napoleon mirrors
MX type indicators with LED globes and LED flasher relay
Trimmed front guard
Shorai battery
Modified DB killers
Lowered passenger pegs
Inlet manifold wrap, oil cooler cover for mid winter
Trimmed handlebar to suit
Extended side stand

Jobs pending or in process:
Respring and fit Ohlins DU440
Fit and test refurbished modified forks
Modify a bash plate and weld on a cut down alloy camping cup to protect the oil filter

Most of the work was bolt on and easy. The time consuming stuff was set up and adjustment of rider ergos and selecting or modifying parts from the spares box. Hats off to those who build frames and fabricate everything. I have always admired those who can shape metal and turn concepts into hard parts.

I also admire stealth modifications that make a big difference.

Cheers mate.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49207427518_f69627a075_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hYhVQJ)IMG_2757 (https://flic.kr/p/2hYhVQJ) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr


New seat, modified to be a stock seat on steroids.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49212324892_e5faf58c8d_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hYJ2Ed)20191213_130428 (https://flic.kr/p/2hYJ2Ed) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Got this from Jeff at Monsterparts today. It takes pride of place on the old girl.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49212351442_bddf6d2ac5_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hYJaxY)20191213_190129 (https://flic.kr/p/2hYJaxY) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr
Non slip cover for the pillion in a million.
A shout out to Baylesh Upholstery in Montrose Vic Melbourne Australia

 (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49212327597_6a3be25f74_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hYJ3sR)20191213_105159 (https://flic.kr/p/2hYJ3sR) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Seat is higher but sculpted for both rider and pillion to open the knee angle. Rider can stand on the pegs more easily and push the bike under while weighting the pegs. Seat angle gives the pelvic tilt my old back needs nowdays. I feel more over and forward on the bike, but more able to move around which should help on dirt roads. He did a great job.

My first Duc was a ‘99 M750.  It wore poorly made Marzocchi front forks.  Years later, a friend of mine also had a ‘99 M750.  His forks, however, were Paoli’s.  Visually, identical except there was a small stylized ‘P’ cast into the inner fork bottom.

Main difference: my Marzocchi’s would blow fork seals if you looked at them sideways & his Paoli’s never did.

Random bit of trivia...  Might help with the project.

 [beer]Thanks for that info. That's very helpful and news to me, so I'll check my spare forks at the suspension shop. The ones on the bike have an "M" followed by a number on them. Must be Marzzochi's :P However, I found a sticker on them from a tuning house down here which backs up my theory that they have better internals fitted. Im 200 without gear and the forks feel way too good to be stock [laugh].

Edit:
The marking I saw was an ink stamp of "M600", so that threw me before I wiped the dirt off. ;D There was a casting of the year 98 mfr and a stylized stamp that looked like a Japanese character. It was not symmetrical and looked a lot like this, "P¡¡\" within a stamped, square border. Not clear to me.

Spare forks aren't ready yet and it will be some time after the holidays.
I note that the suspension is quite good with a pillion, quite planted and controlled, better in some ways than solo.

Anyone applied a rear brake upgrade to these older Monsters? I have warped the rear disc during dirt road riding and could use more power and modulation. What are your solutions?
Edit: Didnt have much luck searching around, but I figure someone has grafted on a stronger caliper and more durable disc. HP Brembo caliper, bigger bore mc, floating disc? 4 piston caliper? Wheel clearance issues?

Hope you had a nice break in Yesterdayland. [beer]

Cheers.

Monster rear caliper has a smaller pad area than SS or SBK calipers do.  That could be a low cost fix.

Thanks Stu. That's quite a nifty, budget fix there. I'll make it my first option. Cheers.

I've been running a big piston/pad brembo, OEM rotor and Ferodo Platinum pads.
Pretty sure caiper came off a MTS
Line attaches 90 degrees off, so you'll need a different line.
Feels like a normal brake, instead of a weak simulation

Cool mate. Hope you're having a good one.
Any MTS? 34mm pistons?

A good way to see which bikes run the larger pad rear caliper would be to get the part # for the bigger pads and track which bikes use them.  Only reference that I *know* is the larger is: 1999 SuperSport.

Cheers [thumbsup]

It's going alright, thanks!

It's a P34 caliper
Likely a Brembo 20.B852.30
Running the Ferodo FDB2074P pads

The wide pad calipers are available in both 32 and 34 piston.
It's fundamentally a better caliper, bleed screw is on the opposite side of the caliper from hose end.

Allegedly, these have the big piston:

Ducati ST2 1999-2000            Aprilia ETV 1000 Capo Nord 2001-2003
Ducati ST3 2004-2007            Ducati 1098 2009
Ducati ST3 ABS 2007            Ducati 749 2004-2006
Ducati ST3 S ABS 2006            Ducati 749 Dark 2005-2006
Ducati ST4 1999-2003,2005            Ducati 749 R 2003-2006
Ducati ST4 ABS 2003-2005            Ducati 749 S 2004-2006
Ducati ST4S 2003-2004            Ducati 848 2009
Ducati SuperSport 1000 2006            Ducati 999 2004-2006
Ducati SuperSport 1000 DS 2005            Ducati 999 R 2004-2006
Ducati SuperSport 1000 S 2003            Ducati 999 S 2004-2006
Ducati Supersport 620 S 2003            Ducati Monster 1100 2009
Ducati Supersport 800 2006            Ducati Monster 1100S 2009
Ducati Supersport 800 S 2003            Ducati Monster 696 2009
Piaggio X9 125 2000-2002            
Piaggio X9 180 2000-2002            
Piaggio X9 250 2000-2002            
Piaggio X9 500 2000-2002            
            
            
            
Year           Model      Year          Model
2004   749 Dark      2011   848 EVO USA
2004   749 Dark USA   2012   1100 EVO ABS
2004   749 R      2012   1100 EVO ABS USA
2004   749 S      2012   1200
2004   999              2012   1200 ABS
2004   999 R      2012   1200 S Pikes Peak
2004   999 S      2012   1200 S Pikes Peak USA
2005   749 Dark      2012   1200 USA
2005   749 Dark USA   2012   796 ABS
2005   749 R      2012   796 ABS USA
2005   749 R USA   2012   848
2005   749 S      2012   848 EVO
2005   749 S USA   2012   848 EVO Corse SE
2005   999              2012   848 EVO Corse SE USA
2005   999 R      2012   848 EVO USA
2005   999 R USA   2012   848 USA
2005   999 S      2013   1100 DIESEL
2005   999 S USA   2013   1100 DIESEL USA
2005   999 USA      2013   1100 EVO ABS
2006   749 Dark      2013   1100 EVO ABS USA
2006   749 Dark USA   2013   1200 ABS
2006   749 R      2013   1200 ABS USA
2006   749 R USA   2013   1200 S GT
2006   749 S      2013   1200 S GT USA
2006   749 S USA   2013   1200 S Pikes Peak
2006   999              2013   1200 S Pikes Peak USA
2006   999 R      2013   1200 S Touring
2006   999 R USA   2013   1200 S Touring USA
2006   999 R XEROX   2013   796
2006   999 R X'X USA   2013   796 ABS
2006   999 S      2013   796 ABS USA
2006   999 S USA   2013   796 USA
2006   999 USA      2013   848
2007   999 S AMA Rep   2013   848 EVO
2008   848              2013   848 EVO Corse SE
2008   848 USA      2013   848 EVO Corse SE USA
2009   848              2013   848 EVO USA
2009   848 USA      2013   848 USA
2010   1100      2014   1200 ABS
2010   1100 ABS      2014   1200 ABS USA
2010   1100 ABS USA   2014   1200 S GT
2010   1100 S      2014   1200 S GT USA
2010   1100 S ABS   2014   1200 S Pikes Peak
2010   1100 S ABS USA2014   1200 S Pikes Peak USA
2010   1100 S USA   2014   1200 S Touring
2010   1100 USA      2014   1200 S Touring USA
2010   1200      2014   796 - DMT
2010   1200 ABS      2014   796 ABS
2010   1200 ABS USA   2014   796 ABS - DMT
2010   1200 S ABS   2014   796 ABS USA
2010   1200 S ABS USA2014   848
2010   1200 S Touring   2014   848 USA
2010   1200 S T'g USA   2014   1200 ABS BRASIL
2010   1200 USA      2014   1200 ABS THAILAND
2010   848              2014   1200 S Pikes Peak BRASIL
2010   848 Hayden   2014   1200 S Pikes Peak THAILAND
2010   848 USA      2014   1200 S Touring BRASIL
2011   1200      2014   1200 S Touring D-AIR
2011   1200 ABS      2014   1200 S Touring THAILAND
2011   1200 ABS USA   2014   796 ABS THAILAND
2011   1200 S Sport   2014   796 THAILAND
2011   1200 S Sport US2015   1200 ABS BRASIL
2011   1200 S Touring   2015   1200 S Pikes Peak BRASIL
2011   1200 S T'g USA   2015   1200 S Touring BRASIL
2011   1200 USA      2015   796 ABS THAI SPECIAL THAILAND
2011   796 ABS      2015   796 ABS THAILAND
2011   796 ABS USA   2015   848
2011   848 EVO      2015   848 USA
                         2015   796 ABS S2R THAILAND

Thanks heaps, that's awesome.

With that info I picked up a low mileage caliper from an 1100Evo on ebay. Will update when its on and running. Love this joint.

Caveats, etc.:

My above ginormous list isn't necessarily 100% accurate.

The Owner's Manual for the year and model of bike will show basic specs for the caliper, so doublecheck that way before buying.

There may be some way to ID the large piston versions from the usual for sale pics.
I've seen no difference.

It's quite a bit more brake than a 32.
Some folks don't seem to use a rear brake at all, I use it a lot.

With the "scrambler", I'm learning to rely on the rear on the hilly, limestone and gravel roads around here. I'm glad I removed a front disc though, people don't realize how strong Ducatis basic braking package is. Descending hilly dirt roads using engine braking and the rear brake is second nature to you "dirt guys" ;D

With the GLW as pillion, I'm using her 100 odd lbs to make the rear brake more effective on Tarmac like a cruiser. Seems to work well and makes up for the single front disc. It's a very level and stable braking method for two up riding.

Evo manual quotes 34mm pistons. Measured the eye to eye spec of mounting bolts and caliper body dimensions to ensure bracket fit and rear wheel clearance. All good. I have spare brake lines.

IMO brake caliper size is just one issue.  Early on I learned yoo can lock the rear wheel.   You just need to alter your ankle angle and press really hard.  Obviously not acceptable for riding a scrambler with a pillion.

The Platinum pads aren't super grabby, and they're nice to the rotors and don't grind them off.

So less likely to lock.
Still will lock if one pounces hard on it.

For the dirt running, I use it for spin control, even aggressive street legal tires can't really hold a 750.
My W-headed Gran Canyon with TKC-80's could spin the rear in the dirt at will up to 60mph or so.

Yep, it all requires some finesse ;).
It wouldnt surprise me if the later type calipers were less prone to sticky pistons and therefore less prone to warping discs. The early type do appear to overheat quite easily.

Bench tested, then fitted and tested a braided line for the rear caliper. Will see how much pedal travel there is with the bigger pistons. Gotta try it on the road.

 (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49302413113_7ce99720fc_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2i7FKKp)20191231_103932 (https://flic.kr/p/2i7FKKp) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr 

I have adjusted the M/C freeplay to a safe minimum in order to reduce the pedal travel for my small size 8 foot. If that doesnt suffice then ill go for a bigger bore M/C.

Road testing on bitumen and dirt/gravel was favourable.  The pistons also retract more cleanly reducing the risk of over heating and disc warping. I gave the rear brake a hammering with no over heating or brake fade. [thumbsup]

Come to think of it, these later callipers remind me of the old Lockheed Racing callipers.

I found this Eibach 550 pound spring in a parts bin in the corner of the workshop. Code no. 193336, size 0700.225.0550. Im assuming the 550 means 550 pounds.

  (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49320389712_2a84606673_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2i9gTyL)20200103_161928 (https://flic.kr/p/2i9gTyL) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Seems to fit ok.

It's 3/4 inch longer than the Ohlins spring. The coils are thicker but less spaced that the Ohlins spring which has lost its numbers. I'll get them measured by my suspension bloke.

 (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49320183491_daa1f997e2_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2i9fQge)20200103_161942 (https://flic.kr/p/2i9fQge) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

 (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49320366221_4adac41dc4_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2i9gLzK)20200103_171950 (https://flic.kr/p/2i9gLzK) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Amazing what you find when you clean up. I'll visit Kroozetune's suspension shop next week when the summer break is done. Left to right, Showa, Eibach, Ohlins and Sachs. Eibach chart says that's a 9.8kg spring. The Sachs progressive spring is off my old '95 900 Monster, but appears lighter than the Sachs progressive on my 750 (which is great with a pillion, but crap solo) if coil gap is anything to go by.

Yes, that Eibach is a 550 lb/in spring.

The Showa spring looks quite stiff, likely as Honda used high leverage ratios on a lot of their bikes.

Allegedly, all of the Gen1 Monster shocks are the same, excluding the Ohlins-equipped bikes.

That Honda spring is off one of my NC30's with the ELF Pro Arm. I raced three of the little buggers, great bikes.

Will that 550 lb Eibach carry my 200 lbs?

So a 10.5 equates to about a 600 pounder?

That 550 is too soft.
That Penske emulsion shock I got from you had a 600 on it.
So if you can remember how that felt...

I'd say something in the 600-650 range, 10.7-11.6 kg/mm.



That would be

Ohlins has a -39 spring that's 11.2kg/mm (628 lb/in).

Thanks fellas [thumbsup]

Ordered some bayonet type 9mm LED globes to use in the dirt bike turn signals. They have 360 & 180 deg LED coverage and are twice as bright as the globes supplied which are drowned out by our harsh summer glare. The lenses otoh were excellent at night and made the most of the candle like lumination, they should work very well with LED's. The vendor advised to use amber globes with the amber lenses for more intense lumination.

I had briefly refitted the oem turn signals but the GLW's pillion boot missed them by mm's (I note my ex wife kicked them off regularly). Then there's the vulnerability of the oem indicators on dirt tracks and how they protrude like the proverbials, my original decision vindicated.

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=77926.0

Next for this bike are two FCR MX 39 carbs on modified manifolds. These dirt bike manifolds have horizontal carbs with a choke.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49496490327_850c3e6d37_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ipQs9g)12v-24v-BA9S-AMBER-LED-360-led-shop-online (https://flic.kr/p/2ipQs9g) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

LED indicator globes.
But you need this. Two similar products have not worked with four globes, only two. This product claims to self adjust to cater for any number of globes.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49495773973_7c2a7064d7.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ipLMck)12v-Electronic-Flasher-3-Pin-led-shop-online (https://flic.kr/p/2ipLMck) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49550816428_47d26f386a_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iuCTpb)0012185_pirelli-mt60-rs_370 (https://flic.kr/p/2iuCTpb) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr
Pirelli MT60RS currently on the scrambler M750. Below are the Metzler Karoo Street I am considering. From initial observation, the Karoos look like a decent dirt road tyre, but I think the Pirellis could be better on wet tarmac. The Karoos cost significantly less.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49551315631_6714d1f6b6_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iuFrN8)0016245_metzeler-karoo-street_370 (https://flic.kr/p/2iuFrN8) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Any opinions or thoughts from you tyre experts?

Shinko 705's look good, and the ADVRider crew seems to like em.
Price looks nice too.

Heidenau also look promising, but pricing is less attractive.

Cheap as chips, bang for buck [thumbsup]
I can get them from an ebay seller for about 380 the pair delivered plus fitting (about 50) so 430. I can probably get the Karoos for that fitted with a deal on fitting from the supplier. Strangely, Pirelli are conducting a very aggressive marketing campaign selling well below their very expensive advertised prices (if you know the right people). Clearly when it comes to tyre brands I have no loyalty and I'm basically a tyre whore. [laugh]

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49555104217_6575fde547.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iv1S1z)s-l1600 (https://flic.kr/p/2iv1S1z) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Shinko 705's

No Heidenau here in 120/17 or 160-170/17. Bugger.

Nor here, apparently.
Thought they had them.  :(

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49579135006_e30c5da121.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ix92ww)12v-BA9S-HIGH-POWER-WHITE-LED-360-with-lens-led-shop-online-2 (https://flic.kr/p/2ix92ww) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Trying these in the dirt bike indicators. More than twice the power and just fit under the lense.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49582562993_0452ed20d5_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ixrAxK)20200225_153852 (https://flic.kr/p/2ixrAxK) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Not all flasher relays are equal and some even less so with LED globes. Avoid the one on the right of your screen.

Im partial to Michelin anakee
Pourpose Built Moto has a nice control box for balancing out all LED issues

I wanted the Anakees but they didnt have the sizes for my bike.

I'll look em up. [thumbsup]

https://purposebuiltmoto.com/product/black-box-v2-lighting-control-module/

Cheers.

Stage 3 lock down has given me a reason to take the 750 off the road, since no recreational travel is allowed. I'll ride the Evo to work and finish my projects. It's good to have projects at this time to keep your head straight.

Found an Ohlins spring.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OHLINS-OHLINS-Rear-Shock-Suspension-Spring-01096-19-70-L4313-Ducati/263482520145?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D25367c78ade1426e848699d5f364fc1b%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D133335712038%26itm%3D263482520145%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2334524&_trksid=p2334524.c100667.m2042

Anyone recognize the code?

Agreed, but wondering if your parts are going to show, bummer
Waiting on front brake line on the bike for 2 weeks now, rear blistering struts for the crosstrek 1 month

Fortunately the on line and freight industries are going strong here while most other shops are shut. They leave it at the door and no signature required. The delivery guy threw my parcel 10 feet to me last time. ;D

I'll fit the Ohlins shock with new spring (and carbs one way or another), but my spare forks are stranded in the shop with no end in sight.

Ohlins spring info here:
http://ducati-upnorth.com/tech/suspensionspring.php

That spring is way too soft, you need something like a 36/105 or 39/110

Thanks heaps. [thumbsup]

Those charts are precious data. Ohlins have a strange code a bit like Dynojet jet numbers.

My local suspension shop is still open! They are finishing custom and "special" jobs while trade is quiet. They will have a shock spring for me and are putting my spare forks together which have finally been been rechromed and will be re-sprung, valved and modified for more travel (about 20mm if possible). The 20mm goal is based on the 20mm the forks can be dropped thru the clamps.

I finish one outstanding job today and my business is pretty much closed bar selling stuff thru the post. I'll need this project for my head since my other govt job taxes one's mental health and we all have to mitigate cabin fever.

The project is in full swing! :D

 Fitted some CCW Exactfit coils, some FCR 39 dirt bike carbs (finishing the details) and another crankcase breather.
Will be in touch with the suspension shop Monday.
I've got to decide where to locate the Ohlins DU440 cannister.

 [thumbsup]

Update again on mods list.

Custom seat mods x2. 1 x modified Sargent seat with Airhawk Adventure cushion(solo and adventure riding),
1 x modified oem seat (pillion).
Vacuum tap delete and manual fuel tap (Briggs & Stratton :D)
Reroute fuel line with Visu filter
Fit fuel hose heat shield tubing

Air box delete, K&N 2780 pod filters with K&N outers
Cut up air box/battery box to support ignition and electricals
Keihin FCR 39 off road carbs
Light Alloy Kaemna Flywheel
CCW Exactfit coils and leads
NGK Racing plug caps
Staintune exhaust

Ducati Scrambler bars
Fat bar risers (Rizoma)
Gel grips
Single throttle cable mod
Ride height and geometry changes
Dual sport Tyres (Pirelli MT60RS).
Bark buster guards modified to suit
Enduro style headlight fairing
Exhaust pipe guard
Fork guards
Single front disc and new M/C with braided line, sintered pads
1100 Evo rear 34mm brake caliper with braided line
Adjustable Brembo front brake lever
Napoleon mirrors
MX type indicators with LED globes and LED flasher relay
Trimmed front guard
Shorai battery
Modified DB killers
Lowered passenger pegs
Inlet manifold wrap, oil cooler cover for mid winter
Trimmed handlebar to suit
Extended side stand
Bar mounted clock and temp gauges

Ohlins DU440 shock
Forks modified and extended to give 25 mm more travel. Fork length increased 50mm, 25 longer via modification and pushed through the clamps another 25mm to obtain geometry and weight bias adjustment.

Bar mounted clock and temp gauge. Analogue clock and large digit gauge as I'm long sighted. This is also the winter/wet bike so the gauge is a good alert for 3°C and black ice. I'll ride down to 0°C/30°F.

That's also why I wanted FCRs with chokes. The performance improvement is substantial.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49780595167_f9d1f313ee_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iQWyBz)20200417_202530 (https://flic.kr/p/2iQWyBz) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Nice

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The LED globes work a treat in the small rubbery MX indicators.

Finally.
Forks rebuilt and extended with 25 mm more travel and a cheap Ohlins spring out of the shop's used spring box for the shock. Forks were rechromed and modified for the purpose. Is there nothing Dave and his crew at Krooztune can't do?

Will fit them in the next day or two.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49795612513_e3dc687d58_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iSgwKk)20200421_143623 (https://flic.kr/p/2iSgwKk) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Despite the time and money, I feel vindicated with my choice and methodology. Dave at the suspension shop said people were buying $15,000 Scramblers and spending $2500 on suspension. The M750 was cheap due to its unloved model status and although not having an ideal geometry, has made a great little all rounder. I will have to muck around with ride height, etc, but it's good to keep the mind occupied on technical stuff when business is very slow.

How will you address the rear height...extended heim joints?

Possibly. They do have a good 10mm adjustment at least. I'm going to test a few settings and run with whatever feels comfortable. A compromise setting for tarmac and dirt roads is the goal. I have that now but the "new" forks will throw things out being an inch longer. The current forks are pushed down so their caps are nearly flush to the triples while the rear wishbone is in the lowest position. I gave away some front end feel on tarmac to unweight the forks some on dirt roads. II'll have to try the new forks and see.

A full diameter in the threads of the wishbone has proven completely adequate on my M900. I believe that gives you more than 10 mm of adjustment, particularly if you have them buried now.

Yeah they're flat at present. I had 10mm at one stage which felt great on the street, but terrible on dirt roads, so I dropped em to shift some weight back. The fork caps are flush, iirc raising the front 20 mm from stock, shifting even more weight back. I have to think about how much fork to show above the clamps.

The 750 certainly requires a different riding style to the  forward biased Evo. It'll be fun testing settings front and rear playing with weight bias and aspect.

That Ohlins shock with a 'new' seal head and 10mm of shaft spacer washers will get you 342mm overall C-C
Basically it's an extra half inch of shock travel and the rocker will nearly touch the bracket for the tank

79mm shaft travel, minus ~19mm for the snubber

You'll have to massage the rocker a bit to clear the spring and upper shock body.

That'll raise the rear a lot, and you can run a good bit more sag too.

Ran like that on my M750 for a year.

Thanks mate. Very cool. I'll talk to my suspension bloke. [thumbsup]

More lean on side stand with 25mm more front ride height.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49800191321_edda9c0f97_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iSEZSi)20200422_132907 (https://flic.kr/p/2iSEZSi) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49800193526_275bb70c03_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iSF1wj)20200422_132530 (https://flic.kr/p/2iSF1wj) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr


Adjusted the headlight. ;)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49799649558_47d4713946_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iSCdPy)20200422_133003 (https://flic.kr/p/2iSCdPy) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

A gift from a mate (MonsterMadMarty) down in Tasmania.

Exactfit coils, NGK racing plug caps and Shorai battery. There's  room for a spare coil and Kokusan ignition box

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49800223986_1ec133410e_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iSFazu)20200422_124544 (https://flic.kr/p/2iSFazu) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Bikes looking great. 👍🏼

Given that the bike is a Scrambler now and the battery/air box mount is only the two bolts below the battery, might I suggest making a third support with the available screw holes shown here going forward to maybe the ignition switch, the OE frame mount in front of the vertical carb or somewhere else maybe?  It could be a bad situation if you’re out ‘scrambling’ and the battery box comes loose under that metal tank...

Love the build mate.  Just a suggestion.

Thanks you blokes  [thumbsup].

Maybe an alloy strut to stabilize that battery box?

Exactly.  I cut up a few carbed Monster air boxes and never liked how loose the remainder was. 

So, random thought. I've seen tests where people have put their cone filters in the grill opening for what was supposed to be a ramair effect, but then they actually gained power when the filter was pulling from the engine bay or fenderwell since it was much less turbulent/more consistent. Any thoughts about blocking off the frame in front of the filters so the side-feed? Maybe just with cardboard to test it?

I'd also like to see you use a skidplate but now I'm just being picky  :P

That plastic panel above the regulator guards the filters pretty well I reckon. The K&N filter covers don't just stop water and dirt, but help smooth turbulent air. [thumbsup]

I'm waiting for a buddy to modify a skid plate from a generic alloy type. He said to cut a whole in the skid plate for the oil filter, buy an alloy coffee cup from a camping store, cut it down and weld it onto the skid plate over the hole to protect the oil filter. He's a clever bugger and very handy. He's stranded in NZ at present but we'll work on that when he gets home.

Thought I'd fit the Ohlins with new spring.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49808292538_66aa1e1bf9_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iTow5s)20200424_191113 (https://flic.kr/p/2iTow5s) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

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There you go Howie, thanks.

One little mod I made sure I did was replace the motor to frame earth cable with a heavy duty and longer one that can be pinched between the frame and the rearset bolt, rather than being held on behind the rearset with a nut. New hardware and heavy duty terminals were used.

Set up DU440 shock with about 5mm preload for starters. Used oem damping settings of 14 clicks rebound and 12 clicks compression. Shock is very responsive to adjustment which is a good sign.

These await the forthcoming tyre change. The question is Pirelli MT60RS or Metzler Karoo Street?

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49812099772_a6ec3dc4c8_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iTJ2Qq)20200425_105829 (https://flic.kr/p/2iTJ2Qq) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Inspiration. Saw this E650 with 900 motor on elefantadventure site forum by ducpower shop. Obviously just fitted out before cosmetics.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49819969023_297289f969_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iUqn6a)unnamed (https://flic.kr/p/2iUqn6a) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

The GC. Not bad style. A bit high and heavy for me.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49822902128_45e58efdaa.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iUFoZW)images (1) (https://flic.kr/p/2iUFoZW) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

I wish we had the elefant in the us. Tried hunting down one to do a build. Bits and pieces is all I could come across

It seems like you guys mainly got the later behemoth adventure models, although I know one member who had the dirt bike 650. A couple of members have the later Gran Canyon model.

I read on an Elefant forum that at one time the Cagiva Elefants were sold as Ducatis in the US. Pretty cool.

Yes, the giant ones, and Gran Canyons.

Very rare though, not common at all.

IMO far too big and heavy to go offroad.

Had an hour, so put it on with some nice stainless cap bolts. Thanks Marty, it is tidy now [thumbsup]

Polished the wheel too. Not too bad.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49831726743_43f2547c0d_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iVsCft)20200430_135017 (https://flic.kr/p/2iVsCft) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49832536737_158aad7573_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iVwM2T)20200430_132402 (https://flic.kr/p/2iVwM2T) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49832257136_d4b77acf78_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iVvkVb)20200430_135045 (https://flic.kr/p/2iVvkVb) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

The polished rim and fresh hub cover with polished stainless bolts highlight how manky the paint is on the fork lowers. Guess I should polish them too.

Tidy hub cover and fresh fork covers

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49840170181_2907281d62_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iWcUbZ)20200502_152503 (https://flic.kr/p/2iWcUbZ) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Looks really good.  [thumbsup]

Thanks.  :)
A good cut 'n polish of the wheels, tank, frame and fork lowers has really lifted the bike. I applied creme polish to painted surfaces, metal polish to the mufflers and spray conditioner to the plastics. It was good to give the 21 year old bike some love. I note that the paint on the fuel cap has deteriorated so badly that it must be redone or buffed off completely. I really enjoy riding this old bike.

With lock down restrictions slightly eased here, I was able to test out the modified forks and Ohlins shock. The forks felt greatly improved on some local dirt roads, which had deteriorated due to recent heavy rains leaving ruts, corigations, pot holes, tree debris and piles of gravel. I did not initially realise that I was travelling 5 to 10 mph faster due to improved suspension feel and ride quality. Its no MX bike, but a good result considering its based on an inappropriate 888 Superbike chassis. The extra inch of fork travel and Ohlins shock made all the difference.

I went for the Pirelli MT60RS again. They are such a good rain tyre and periodic lockdowns mean riding whenever possible in any conditions. They are fine on dirt roads and a decent enough tarmac tyre.  Not great anywhere but ok most places.

GLW and I went shopping at our local farm outlet (away from crowds and shopping centres). It was good to support the local farmers with more direct shopping and stay away as much as possible from the big supermarket chains. We are on the very outer edge of the city where the vineyards, dairies, horse studs and orchards begin. It's beautiful country. We took the scrambler 750 and a back pack (souvenir from Ducati Firenze). While I have been able to tune the twin FCRs quite easily from 1/4-WOT throttle, the big issue has been tuning the idle-1/4 range on the road with very asymmetric manifolds. The angled manifold boots exacerbate the asymmetry of the manifolds giving uneven carburation. This has required some conceptual flexibility to give each carb what it wants at an intuitive level. Given the general synch and tune is very good and very smooth (confirmed by manometer, throttle response and plug colours), I had to give myself permission to tune the idle-1/4 range totally by ear and ride impression.  Old school tuning ensued forgetting the O2 tester, manometer, etc. We can get overly dependant on technology with carbs. The bike runs the smoothest below 1/4 throttle than it ever has which was really gratifying. The bike is so much fun.  :)

That’s awesome.  I’m so glad you’re pleased with the results!!

They are great carbs and truly transform the bike. :D It really gets me that Ducati didn't at least persist with Dellortos or at least try Mikuni TM38 carbs. Maybe it was due to emissions requirements that CV carbs came to the fore. I know Keihin FCR carbs well, but these beat up second hand items have caused me the most issues of any FCRs I've worked on.

Honestly, I got the off idle/low rpm tune perfect, (unless the rhs carb still clears some more then I'll have to go down a size on the pilot jet and adjust the ims again)[laugh] ;D

 [thumbsup]

Or the CV’s were the easiest/simplest/cheapest option,
just order TDM setup...

Do you mean Mikuni TDMR40 carbs?

No, Yama TDM 850 w CV carbs.

Ah I see. I have a few sets of CV carbs, but the oil heater plumbing and lack of response really annoys me. The carb freezing issue and the solutions required add complexity and clutter. The FCR carbs are sophisticated  in design but simple from a maintenance perspective, don't freeze and are the best carburettors money can buy. The issue is cost, so I found a cheap way of fitting FCRs with a choke.

The best performance with a choke are the TDMR carbs or what I've done, but I think the BDST38's for the TDM 850 at least have accelerator pumps which is what Ducati should have done. With accelerator pumps we could tune the midrange for smoothness and economy and let the pumps take care of acceleration. Alas, Ducati put the cheap ass version of the carbs on desmodues and the rest is history. [bang]

Thanks to all of you who have provided advice and encouragement. I can say that this project is pretty much complete, bar a few little touches. The bike is quite versatile and fun to ride and my mates say it gets through rough back roads quite quickly enabling me to keep up with fancier stuff. The bike already is associated with many fun memories with the pillion in a million.
I really appreciate your contributions. This is a great community with friends I hope to meet one day. I've met quite a few people in person both local and from overseas. Stay safe out there.
Cheers.

And cheers to you [beer]  Congrats on a great real world build!

Thanks Howie.

Thank You.
You’re one of the most helpful here. [thumbsup]

^^^

Yup. I agree with that.  I think it’s great that you took an Italian street bike and changed it to what you want.  Big kudos!!

Thanks fellas. :)

Reviving/updating an old thread.

The scrambler M750 has been a great bike and the GLW and I go everywhere on it. The Pirelli MT60RS tyres are a great utility tyre giving confidence on dirt roads and busted up tarmac. We were riding back through the The Black Spur in Victoria when we were hit by a very heavy summer rain storm impeading visibility. The rain was so heavy the roads couldn't drain and we got through it all carefully at 40-45 mph. They are good rain tyres.


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49550816428_47d26f386a_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iuCTpb)0012185_pirelli-mt60-rs_370 (https://flic.kr/p/2iuCTpb) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr
Above, the Pirelli MT60RS currently on the scrambler M750. They are my third pair in 26,000 kms and work well, but Pirellis are very expensive in Australia. Since my circumstances have changed, I'm going to try the Metzler Karoo Street (below). The Metzlers are a hundred bucks cheaper per pair. I'll report on how they go.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49551315631_6714d1f6b6_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iuFrN8)0016245_metzeler-karoo-street_370 (https://flic.kr/p/2iuFrN8) by Tony Kokonis (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150482584@N03/), on Flickr

Scrubbed in the Karoo Streets, about 100 miles, then another 50 with a pillion.

If the Pirellis are 80/20 road/dirt tyres then the Metzlers are 70/30. The Metzler rear has a compliant feel to its ride quality. I think the Pirellis do allow more confident high lean angles on tarmac while the Metzlers felt more secure over bumpy and broken roads while transitioning through moderate lean angles. The Metzlers had a slight edge on my 40-45 mph dirt and gravel test road.

Both tyres felt better on tarmac with a pillion. That might be because this road and track rider hates the tread block squirm of dual sport tyres. If someone else has an explanation im curious to know. Maybe the Good Lady Wife's 100 pounds, when added to my 200, just flattens the tread out a little or settles the suspension with these tyres. I had the same feeling with Pirelli MT60RS but not with regular sport bike tyres. I have no other explanation.

Both are good tyres, but again the Metzlers are about a hundred bucks cheaper a pair here in Australia.

I wonder if the additional weight helps keep the carcass in more uniform shape.  Off-road, or dual-sport tires in general don't have very rigid carcass, at least compared to a true road tire, let alone a sport tire.

Not much experience with Michelins...eh?

My early Monsters back in the day used Michelins and Dunlops but I forget. Remind me. I only remember the difference between Michelin and Dunlop slicks.

Michelins are so soft you can mount the first side by just pushing them on with your hands, Dunlops are like iron in comparison.

I haven't used anything but Michelins for the past 20 years.

I added a couple of psi and the rear felt much better. I might source a mini pump for adjusting the pressures between dirt roads and tarmac roads like the adventure guys. [laugh]
Truth is, there are many dirt roads to explore around here that lead to many beautiful locations.

That explains it. It's why I feel better on the bike with a couple of extra psi in the rear tyre and the pillion in a million.

https://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=2444.msg1456604#msg1456604

I still recall this day as one of the coldest ride days of my life.....

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End of threadjack. (https://flic.kr/p/2n3yUdC)

It got below zero iirc. I also recall the back wheel spinning at 100kmh.