Ducati Monster Forum

June 2020.  I normally build bikes over the winter months...  but with Corvid -19 we are not going on any holidays or getting out much so my wife suggested I start my winter project early! I think she prefers me in the garage!

I bought this bike a few years ago...  and over the winter 2018/19 I built it into this you see below...  over the summer of 2019 I put quite a few miles on it...  and actually loved the bike!  it feels light and nimble, handles and brakes really well!  I normally sell my bikes on, but this time I decided to keep it.  A couple of things bugged me though...  The tank I used was a compromise, it looks wrong to me, and although the carb conversion worked well...  I felt the Monster 38mm Mikuni CV carbs held it back performance wise.

So its in for another rebuild/refresh...  cosmetic only as I did the engine last time, and that is running well.  I will be fitting some 41mm FCR carbs, a new tank (999) and making a new seat. And maybe change the exhaust...

this build will take some time...  but I guess that depends on how corvid 19 affects daily life!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/ironbridge.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/50000904478_c977d1e09c_o-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/50001487126_c31277cc6c_o.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/50001680317_6b7c3a5700_o-copy.jpg)

Here are a few pictures from the first rebuild...



(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2017/08/cases-cleaned.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2017/08/multistrada-crank-cases-4.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2017/08/multistrada-engine-build-1.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/multistrada-heads-stripped-for-cleaning.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2017/12/heads.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2017/12/brake-callipers-1.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/build-2110-8.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2018/10/speedo-housing-4.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/engine.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2018/12/build-date-51218-2.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/seat-1.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/seat-2.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2019/01/ssdf-6.png)

And the awesomeness marches on...  [bow_down]

Back on board [popcorn]

 [popcorn]

Sweet!  Beer can holders in the seat pan!   [drink]

Been working on making the manifolds from scratch…  it’s been quite difficult to get the shape and angles right, while maintaining approximately the same length..  there now though and I am pleased with the results.  took a while to smooth the bore with the die grinder where I had penetrated with the TIG welds....

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/50038494351_f308e79aa6_o-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/50047229803_87a54c3fda_o-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/50049431238_1dd4a0844c_o.jpg)

 [bow_down]

Amazing!

here is the subframe i have been making the last few days…  I have deliberately kept it short as this will be a short single seat, which is the next job to do…  I have used Rose Joints for no other reason than I just like the look of them!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/swubframe-1-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/06/subframe-2-copy.jpg)

I do too, but what are you going to do for prettier bolt heads?

 [thumbsup] great stuff.

they are all i had in stock in the size...  i will get some flanged pan heads  [thumbsup]

Good. You scared me a second there.

 [laugh] [laugh]

Next the messy job of making a seat, well I actually made two as I couldn’t decide on shape!  Its the one thing many people ask how I do it, so I have written a tutorial on it  rather than post all of it here.

here is the link to my blog page


 https://jtccc.wordpress.com/projects-2/tank-and-seat-manufacture/ (https://jtccc.wordpress.com/projects-2/tank-and-seat-manufacture/)



 So just a few pictures…


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/07/50060943846_e056c815a3_c.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/07/00d.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/07/50062031576_cb5a13191b_o.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/07/mockup-small.jpg)

Last pic looks really good, much better than first edition.
Keep it red this time., looks good and matches clutch.

I agree. Tank was made for it [thumbsup]. That looks roadster good.

Pic of the other seat?

Today I made up some cables for the FCR’s.  as they are split I have used a cable junction box, and made up the cables from scratch, including the brass nipples which I have soldered on.

here is a link to a video to see the action...  [thumbsup]

https://youtu.be/f0Xjr0e7Ukw



(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/07/nipples-2.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/07/50097038632_07e13d1604_c.jpg)

Nice manifolds too.

thanks! [thumbsup]

Lockdown is good for progress!  I have finished the frame modifications to clear the carbs, and finished the fabrication on the rear subframe so it's off to the powder coaters tomorrow.

I have also stripped the rear shocker so I can change the colour on the spring...  not sure what to yet, but definitely not yellow!  had to make a clamp as these are strong springs and I have the utmost respect when working with them under this much tension, hence the beefy plate and studs!

And here is the engine...

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/07/frame-powder-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/07/spring-removal-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/07/engine-ready-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/07/engine-ready-2-copy.jpg)

Really like those manifolds. They appear to have more volume than stock carb manifolds which is good for the intake port to cylinder volume ratio. 👍

And they are pretty.

yes, they are 41mm inside diameter so quite a bit bigger than standard 900 ones...

  [thumbsup]

One of the things I have always struggled to get done is plating... I have had some terrible jobs done in the past, and lost critical small parts to the bottom of someone's plating vat!

so about 4 years ago I bought a plating kit to do zinc... Have to say it's VERY good and I have used it time and time again! its a bit time consuming, but time is something I have, particularly at the moment...

Here are the results for my latest build. the kit can do clear and yellow passivation, you can see the difference.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/07/50172531321_bb77149388_o-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/07/50172531291_c10db483f9_o-copy.jpg)

Nice result.
Something I haven't tried with a few local platers nearby. You had control of the process and volume, so any issues to consider DIY?

How do you clean them before?

Follow up:
did you have a clear unoccupied table for this purpose? That's not normal....

 ;D ;D ;D  my wife is always telling me I am not normal...  in fact "special" is the word she often uses  [cheeky]

Now for the nice bit… putting it all back together! the frame came back from the powder coaters and as ever its a superb job! I know its a 50 mile round trip to this guy but his work is worth it, especially after the poor jobs I have had done in the past at local companies… Must be the easiest engine to put in a frame!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/08/50202179473_8ccc4e031f_o-copy.jpg)

More progress...  no holidays, and no pressure to go out means more garage time...  its a good job I have this project or I would be climbing the walls by now!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/08/50222557811_f8ec58c6dd_o-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/08/50222557716_fea8567cb1_o-copy.jpg)

Swing is polished?

yes, took a little while  [laugh]

One of the benefits of having a blast cabinet is the ability to clean parts up easily... But I have always struggled to get that nice shiny finish the professionals manage to get with glass bead. I went to the bead supplier a while ago and said that I was having problems, and he asked what pressure I was blasting at, to which I replied 120 PSI. he said that's your problem... its too high and you are shattering the glass beads and the broken beads are giving you a matt finish! he said to turn the pressure right down, and then up until you got the finish you want! its so much better, you can see the difference in the reservoir caps!  it also gives a closed finish that dirty finger prints just wipe off, on the matt surface they are difficult to remove!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2019/12/bead-blaster-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/08/shot-2-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/08/shot-1-copy.jpg)

 [thumbsup]

Back in its wheels now...  :)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/08/a-on-wheels-2.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/08/a-on-wheels-1.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/08/a-on-wheels-3-1.jpg)

You do have a particular style, I must say...

Sport Roadster  ;)

Don'gt we all... ;D

been painting the tank and seat today...  one of the tips I picked up many years ago is that when spraying small items, use a torch in your other hand and shine it from below...  you can see where you are wetting out the paint...  I love the way 2K lacquer glosses from the gun these days!

link to video here...

https://youtu.be/umG5TAFmm7A (https://youtu.be/umG5TAFmm7A)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/08/50263685151_052ca8e2ec_o-copy.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/08/50263028703_a8f31c7ac6_o-copy.jpg)

started work on the seat base. I have cut it to shape and added the Rivinuts to hold it on. I have used aluminum ones as these are much easier to  pull in with a nut and bolt if you don’t have the special tool to draw them in…

Also a picture of how its looking...  I know this build will finish well before Spring next years so I have bought another project to see me through the dark months of winter... watch this space!  you guys will be pleased  [laugh]

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/08/rivinuts-seat-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/08/progress-copy.jpg)

I'm thinking...torch...explosion hazard...then quickly realized he was talking about a flashlight.

Painting is a very visual specific task, much like welding.

Vision is critical.

Your work is incredible!

Thank You!  [thumbsup] [thumbsup]

Still in the middle of a build of a multistrada special when a bike i have always wanted came up at a bargain price… an early Ducati Monster. With the prospect of limited going out and no holidays due to Corvid, and the fact the current build will be finished before winter, I decided to buy it! here it is… It's a bit tatty, but it runs well and sounds sweet.  Ripe for restoration   its going to the back of the garage for a while…  this will be a straight restoration though, probably red as I like red monsters!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/ducati-monster-900-restoration-1.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/ducati-monster-900-restoration-3.jpg)

On the last couple of builds where I have converted from EFI to carbs I have used an Ignitech ignition unit that utilised the original induction sensor. While the bikes ran OK, I had to make adjustments in the software to compensate for the fact that the values in the software differed from what was actually happening on the bike, plus the tick over was not as steady as I would have liked… This irritated me, and Ignitech themselves refused to answer emails for advice… so I investigated a hall effect setup.

I read about it on the fastbikegear website (Liam has been VERY helpful) and decided to give it a go… The sensors are tiny, and sense two small magnets in the cam wheel through a couple of 3mm holes in the alloy plate.  South Pole switches it on, north off, so it’s important to get them the right way round, hence the magnet and phone!  Here is how I made it, took a while!   The values in the software now match the actual advance when checked with a strobe, and the tick over is rock solid! I have shown it here on the 996 engine as that bike is on the road…


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/ignitech-hall-effect-ignition-4.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/ignitech-hall-effect-ignition-1.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/ignitech-hall-effect-ignition-3.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/ignitech-hall-effect-ignition-2.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/ignitech-hall-effect-ignition-5-small.jpg)

I've found on the Ignitechs that if the advance setting at idle rpm is different from the base advance, the unit is *calculating* the timing.

The variation in crank speed at idle makes the *actual* timing wander around, and it then idles crap.
Might be OK if the setting is retarded from base, as then the Ignitech is only waiting a short time after it gets the idle lump signal.
If it's advanced from base, it's interpolating between the full advance lump and the idle lump.
Leaving enough time for the crank speed variation to fuxxor the actual timing.

This^^^. It's quite annoying and can send one chasing other phantom issues. The weak signal at low rpm from the oem pick ups doesn't help at all.

You’re talkin bout TCIP4?

Yep.

Very cool, buzzer! [clap]
So you are using Ignitech w the Hall sensor?

yes, I got the idea off the fastbikegear website, and had some help of the Laverda guys...  Liam actually sells a kit to do it...

well its running really well now, and its got a very stable tickover...  dry clutch always sounds like a bag of spanners through!

here is a short video...

https://youtu.be/M_b45UEcvsA

Very stable idle indeed! [thumbsup]

Now for the part I actually enjoy doing… the wiring! I am building this loom completely from scratch, save for things like the handlebar switches, although I am replacing the outer sheathing as it was tatty. I know this is something a lot of people struggle with but over the years I have developed a system… I start with a design in my head and I put it down in rough on my Ipad, using an Ipencil which I find brilliant. then I transfer it to visio, which I print out and add the colour of wires on as I go along. I don’t try to it all on one diagram like in workshop manuals, but keep separate pages for different circuits like lights, indicators, ignition… I also create tables of key components where they have pin outs.

All this is put into the build folder which I always pass on when I sell the bikes.

I have a nice crimp tool which is normally sufficient, but if I am in any doubt I put a dab of solder on the joint. I also don’t use pre insulate connectors, instead I put 20mm of heat shrink on which makes a nice joint, and the heat shrink also supports the joint. If you use the glue lined heat shrink, it also makes the joint waterproof. this is of course if I am not using super seal connectors which are not only excellent, but also cheap! and finally, I use the most useful little kit, which has tools for removing all types of pins from connectors!


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/wireing-1.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/ignitech-wire-diagram-1.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/hall-sensor-dia.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/connector.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/terminal-tool.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2018/11/crimp.jpg)

Thank you for sharing your system.

Ditto.

Run out of a few wire connectors so moved onto the cam belt covers till they come… I made some of these a few years ago and they worked well… but this time I have made the holes oval and I think they look better. used a hole saw to cut the circles, and a saw in the dremel to cut the straight bits. just got to carbon dip them now and make the polycarbonate windows…

Also mounted the plate that holds the hall sensors

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/cambelt-cover-1-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/cambelt-cover-2-copy.jpg)

Oval definitely works well. Looks almost factory.

Yes, I like the look of the oval windows

for some parts of the loom I have used this braided sheathing...  its a bit fiddly to do but the results are good.  I notice a lot of cars use this now on the loom.

Another job I have been meaning to get around to...  The FCR carbs need a one into two cable setup.  I was going to use a junction box off an old British bike, but all the ones I could see were either too short on the pull distance, or terrible quality, so I decided to make one.  I was going to make it out of aluminum but had difficulty getting nice threads, probably due to the grade of alloy bar I had.  so brass it is.  It also allowed me to put longer holes to retain the cables, all the ones I looked at only had short holes.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/50375900692_f9832008d5_o-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/50375900557_1d4a174f20_o-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/50375900677_ec910c216a_o-copy.jpg)

Looks strong and very tidy, that won't let you down! [thumbsup]

 I'm using a Motion Pro 2 into 1 cable from Powerbarn USA. Although it works, it could use more cable adjustment and I dont know how long the plastic components will last. I have lubed them liberally hoping to extend their longevity.

Gorgeous!

Thanks!  [thumbsup]

here is the plate to hold the ignition switch.  It didn't look right just flat, so I made a small press tool to add a raised ring where the switch goes.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/ignition-1-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/ignition-2-copy.jpg)

I can see a little smudge on your glasses.

[laugh] [laugh]

its off the polishing mop  [cheeky]

Finished the wiring apart from the horn as it didn't seem to like being bead blasted!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/finished-wireing-copy.jpg)

I like this hydrographics, I may do my helmet soon, there are some nice films out there!  here is a link to a 2 min video of how its done in the back garden with an Ikea box!  if you don't like fake carbon...  don't click the link!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jh6Hh1F0-Yg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jh6Hh1F0-Yg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/50397865326_a113460bf0_o.jpg)

Came up well. Look great and "real" to me.

Thanks, I like the look of it, but its not for everyone...

Done a few jobs in preparation for the start… put the jets in the carbs, started with what I think will be rich to be on the safe side… made a stay for the oil cooler, and made the ignition leads. I have had that crimp tool since I was 20… so its 45 years old! it does make nice crimps on the leads though. I have used copper core leads, and resistor plugs to keep the neighbours happy! *The hydro dipping came out quite good...


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/50398740871_b4cd3bb067_o-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/50408551826_b728926682_o.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/50408707402_a7c31b195f_o.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/50407847908_4a23c936d9_o.jpg)

Try as I might I just couldn’t get the fuel pipes to run correctly with a standard flat “T” piece… the bends in the pipe were too tight. so I ended up making a custom one out of brass… took a few hours…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/fuel-junction-copy.jpg)

My clutch covers plates are back from the laser cutters… he turned it around in a day...  he said he has hardly any work as all his customers are having a hard time...  its tough out there...  :( Over the last couple of years I have been learning CAD… Its not an intuitive package and I get frustrated, but get there in the end!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/clutch-cover-cad.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/clutch-cover-copy.jpg)

That's quite a trinket. [thumbsup]

The seat pad came back from Aldridge trimming and as usual Karen did a fantastic job… she said she was not asked for orange stitching very often! next job was to make the fuel filter holder… this took some thinking about due to the position, and the fact I wanted it to be secure… In the end I machined a clip out of nylon. there is an annular grove which stops the filter moving, its very secure

started it up yesterday… it actually started first time!… but it didn’t run well… A quick check on the timing revealed it was significantly out. Looks like I made a calculation error in placing the magnets. rather than re-make the timing wheel, I slotted the mounting holes on the miller. A simple job, but it took ages to set it up! This of course meant that I had to turn off the original timing marks and scribe some new ones. I used a pointer and timing disc in the lathe to do this. the marks were scribed using a sharp tool, drawn across the surface with the cross slide. I think that way they are pretty accurate! here is a short video of it running.


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/fuel-filter-web-2.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/fuel-filter-web-1.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/seat-1.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/timing-wheel-web-4.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/timing-wheel-web-3.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/timing-wheel-web-2.jpg)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iy-3sPlFi-A

Great work as usual, clean as. Have you considered an alloy crankcase breather box with internal oil seperator baffle between the breather valve and filter? Spun or welded I'd like to see what you do based on your high standards. It's best practice and adds some faux crankcase volume while reducing any oil hiccups.
Go on. ;D

Loving these wish I could by it in a store quality home made parts.


Great idea!

never thought about that... any links to one thats been done?

yesterday’s job was to make some velocity stacks for the FCR’s… first time in many years I have done some free hand turning (just like wood turning) to get the shape of the curved entry right. took ages to bet both to match the plastic one… the new ones will enable me to use filters as its important on the road in particular as the carbs face forward…

last update for a little while as its my 65th birthday tomorrow and I am having a week off apparently :lol

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/velocity-stack-fcr-2-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/velocity-stack-fcr-copy-1.jpg)

Cheers for your birthday [beer].

I've seen some breather boxes about but I think they were carbon units for Superbikes. 

Great work on the stacks, very nice.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiFjPWY3a7sAhXVfCsKHRaEDMMYABARGgJzZg&ae=2&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASE-Ros1kMcZmIUgZHxMRkhhS2ATE&sig=AOD64_3OmKPD2PN-dyBw7n1pxBk2Dccr1g&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjo_O-Y3a7sAhU_wTgGHQawCMYQwg96BAgFECE&adurl=

Happy Birthday [beer]

Bunch of old farts in this thread. ;D

Happy Birthday!

thanks for the Birthday wishes...  it was a bit of a strange one...  zoom meeting with the kids and friends!


first time out in the daylight for a while… its running OK, just need to change the carb needles which are on order, then a road test...

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/0000aaaaa-4-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/0000aaaaa-3-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/10/0000aaaaa-1-copy.jpg)

Not been doing much in the garage for the last week...  My best mate of 55 years was diagnosed with terminal cancer last week.  All very sudden, 4 weeks before he was working in his factory, just complaining of a bad back...  turns out he has lung cancer, cancer in the spine and Multiple Myeloma... they have given him weeks/months. Its knocked me for 6 to be honest...

Gong to get out in the garage Monday and get my mojo back...  for now here is a short video as many people asked how I turn the velocity stack radius in the lathe..

https://youtu.be/f0XB1MTOV5w


link above

Sorry about your buddy, that sucks.

That all makes this rather insignificant, but your work is beautiful.

Mark

Sorry to hear the bad news about your mate.
Shed therapy. :) [thumbsup]

this bike has been in the back of the garage, waiting for the better weather...  I dug it out the other day and did a few jobs in anticipation of riding it soon.  One of the things I hated was taking the tank off as it was so difficult to remove the two front nuts...  so I decided to make some Allen headed nuts  so I could use a long Allen key to easily get to them...

I pondered how to make the hexagon, and came on the idea of a stepped broach method.  So I made the nuts in brass, and used an old Allen key to make the stepped broach which cuts the hexagon in steps as its forced through (2lb hammer!)

it worked rather well!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/03/tank-nuts-copy.jpg)

took the bike for MOT… riding there through town I noticed that it really is far too loud… I actually coasted into the mot station! Chatting to the MOT guy who is a friend... we were saying that we first met when I was 15... we are the same age...  that's 50 years ago!  In all that time he has only failed one of my cars or bikes...  and that was last year when I had failed to spot a tyre on my Mercedes that was bald on the inside edge...  he really has not let me forget it since

when I got home I decided to make a baffle, which has toned it down nicely, without making it too quiet.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/03/mot-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/03/bafffel-copy.jpg)

Well I have done a fair few miles on it the other day...  I have to say I love this bike!  the carburation feels spot on and it runs like a dream! It goes far better than I thought it would, and fells a LOT more powerful than my 900 monster...  I guess that's the 100 extra CC's and the flat slide carbs. I think this will be a keeper, its surprisingly comfortable as well!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/04/00001-copy.jpg)

Fantastic and congrats [beer]

I have been doing quite a few miles, and thoroughly enjoying the bike! In fact its my go to bike when I go for a ride, and others have remained unused!   But they say a special is never finished… and they are probably right! one thing I have never been entirely comfortable with is flat slide carbs with no positive means of closing… So I decided to put some closing cables on the carbs. The junction boxes were fitted to many old British bikes. This meant I could lighten the closing springs a little and have a lighter throttle action, and use a faster action, which we all know adds at least 20 BHP! well it feels like it!

At first I tried a 38mm drum, but this was less than a 1/4 closed to open… too fast, and too heavy! I calculated that 33mm was about right, so off I went to my local bike breakers to hunt for a replacement. He has a very old storage unit with hundreds of boxes on shelves which I systematically went through… last few boxes, and I found the ideal, out of a Honda CFR250. Must say it was rather spooky in there on my own… lots of funny noises which had me constantly looking behind me!!!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/06/throttle-linkage.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/06/aaaaa-copy.jpg)

I have been mulling over doing another special, rather than a Restoration, which I did last time with an early Monster 900 . I have been riding around the last project I built, the Multistrada with the FCR 41mm  carbs on it, which goes really well! In fact its My favourite bike to ride! One of the problems with it though is the single seat, my wife likes to come out on pillion sometimes…

So I decided to build a scrambler type bike, with a dual seat on.
I looked around for another 1000 DS Multistrada and this red one turned up at the right price. These are cheap to buy as many are suffering leaking and bubbling tanks, and faded LCD screens. It’s done 16k miles!  I am still formulating ideas at the moment, but I have made a bit of a start so I have stripped it of all the parts I won’t use so I can sell these on.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/06/ducati-8-1-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/06/me-holding-bike-copy.jpg)


here is my first attempt at a mock up, using a borrowed seat and a bit of photoshop...

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/06/mock-up-1-copy.jpg)

Sometimes I just sit for a while and look at the silhouette of a build in the garage with the lights out… I did this the other night (my wife thinks I am mad! [laugh]) and I kept coming to the conclusion that the tank is not what I want… So off to the bike breaker who lets me wonder around his BIG unit. I took a cardboard cut out of the shape I wanted with me, and some measurements… of the hundreds of tanks I looked at (surprising how many are now plastic!) , none were suitable, mainly due to the angle of the frame.

On the last build I used a 999 tank which worked well, so I decided to try a shortened version on this build. I didn’t feel bad cutting this up as its so badly corroded, and it just goes to show what leaving a bike for a long period with ethanol based fuel in it does inside the tank. you can see from the light I am holding behind it that its actually perforated on the top! So its off to the blasters with it to see what state its in when it comes back…. I have a fall back, but its a perfect 999 tank, be a shame to cut it up...  If the one comes back from the blasters and its too bad, I will probably use it to mock up, and see if I can find a dented one.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/tank-2-copy.jpg)

My FCR 41's came this morning

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/fcr-carbs.jpg)

Maybe that seat is wrong on those rear frame tubes.... regardless of which tank.... Old style oval rally number plate perhaps.



ps
your wife is right

yea, she may well be!  I am playing with the frame tubes/seats/tanks....

well the tank came back from the blasters… as you can see its full of pin holes, and for the first time in over 40 years of repairing tanks I feel I have been beaten! there is no point in trying to repair this! I put a light inside to shop the extent of the corrosion.  look after your tanks guys!


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/tank-22.jpg)

Started the frame modifications, just tacked up at the moment.  On this build I want to keep the seat height right for me, but also allow for an under seat exhaust and a seat long enough for a pillion.  I have replaced the shocker with a strut at the moment so I can see what things look like at max and min travel.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/51305730462_b492fd8e16_o-copy.jpg)

on my last build I run a pair of FCR carbs, it runs really well so for this build I chose the same carbs, but this time decided to bolt them together, and use a common split spindle to control the slides. this means I can use a single pull/ pull throttle arrangement, instead of the 4 cables system I used before. It also means I can run a TPS on the end of the spindle.

I thought it would be easy, I got some 8mm silver steel for the spindle, and a couple of new bearings with seals instead of the closed cup bearings… unfortunately the threads on the locating pins into the spindle is an unusual thread and I couldn’t find a tap… so I had to make some new pins as well… All done now though, including a linkage in the middle so I can balance the carbs .

I have also made some new velocity stacks to accommodate some foam filters… there is a few hours work in those! and a pile of swarf!

Short video to demonstrate how I hand turn the bellmouth on the stacks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ot4jIKXcFuI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ot4jIKXcFuI)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/fcr-carbs-and-stacks-2.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/fcr-7-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/fcr-carbs-and-stacks-1.jpg)

I'm really looking forward to seeing the multi/scrambler finished product. I've always loved the 1st gen multi.

its going to be a while...  this should be a winter project...  but with no holidays and limited things to do I keep finding myself in the garage!

To mount the carbs I needed to make some alloy custom manifolds. I made these using the pie /lobster cut method. I set the chop saw to 7 degrees and cut off a selection of pieces and tape them together until I have the right shape… I then mark the position of each and weld them together, ensuring I have good penetration, which I then grind off inside to make them smooth. the long bur in the picture is a beast to use!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/manifold-1-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/manifolds-2-copy.jpg)

Onto the tank. I managed to source a very clean 999 tank, but of course this is too long for the build… so out came the angle grinder and off came the back! measure twice cut once!. I then fabricated a new back end and welded it into place. When welding stuff like this, everything needs to be clean for a good half inch either side of the weld, so I clean both sides with emery paper, and use to carb cleaner to ensure there is no grease… also wipe the welding rod with some as well…

Once the back/side piece was in place I planished the sides so the new piece had the same radius as the tank. then I welded the bottom in. to test for leaks I use two methods… some dye penetrant and developer, and if it passes this test, I do a final check with air at just 3 PSI and squirt it with soapy water.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/tank-modifications-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/tank-modifications-2-copy.jpg)

One of the most difficult things I find to make on a bike is the seat… this one i have used a different approach as (a) its a dual seat and (b) I am making the base out of aluminium. I mocked up what I wanted in cardboard first, and then transferred the patterns onto some 3mm aluminium. Then I seam welded it… It came out ok, be interesting to see what its like once its to the final shape and the foam and cover is on!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/seat-1-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/seat-2-copy.jpg)

Next job will be the exhaust system but to do this I needed a silencer to get the mock up right… I wanted a small slim silencer, that was re-packable, and that I could fit a baffle come MOT time… and a bit retro/old school. I searched but couldn’t find any suitable, they were all too wide as I want an under seat, side mounted setup.   so I modified a cheap (£16!) stainless steel one off eBay. I would have loved to have made one from scratch but don’t have a cone roller, and to buy a ready made stainless cone is expensive. the hardest part of making this was actually drilling three holes for the bolts to hold the end cone in. the stainless is incredibly hard! after blunting 3 new drills, and buying a cobalt drill and that not touching it, I ended up making a punch and die and punching the holes!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/08/silencer-1-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/08/silencer-2-copy.jpg)

You find a way as usual [thumbsup].
I can vouch for some stainless being incredibly hard (if not brittle). Had a snapped engine stud on an M900 which snapped flush to the case. Early 900 studs looked pretty but could  fracture, even more with high comp pistons. Cobalt drill bits did nothing so we couldn't use an Easy Out extractor. It took me a week to get it out.

yes, I hate working with Stainless, drilling, turning, milling its all a real pain, and 316 grade is the worst.  I try to avoid it if I can!

With the silencer finished I mounted it on the frame. I decided to make it rubber mounted to keep the vibrations down a bit.   The collector was challenging… first one I made I was not happy with, so the second one I welded it on the inside with the TIG, which came out well and should flow OK. Stuck for a few days now as I need a couple of mandrel bends to finish it off.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/08/exhaust-12-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/08/exhaust-1-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/08/exhaust-123-copy.jpg)

I am really looking forward to the finished product.  [popcorn]

plan is to have it ready for next spring...  I normally do this sort of thing over the winter, but there are no holidays for us this year due to Covid... :(

the speedo/ rev counter I am going to use has a plastic case...  which does not look good.  I tried to get some tube the right diameter but it was too big or too small, so I cut 12mm out of some bigger stuff and seam welded it back up, using a piston ring clamp to pull it together to weld it.  I knew it wouldn't look right with a flat bottom so I made a conical one by spinning it in the lathe.  The alloy needs to be soft for this so I annealed it by heating it up to temperature, and letting it cool.  A neat trick to know when its the right temperature is to use a Sharpie pen, and when its burn off and has disappeared, its the right temperature!  a bearing on the end of a bar makes it easy!  here is a short video...

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/08/51359638684_d869d74bf1_o-copy.jpg)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzapW5hnO3I

The seat base is finished, added the rivinuts to hold it on, and made a bracket so it only bolts on at the rear so it comes off easily.  The last build is a pain to remove the seat.  just need to add the foam and sand it to shape. I am happy with the mock-up but cant decide if the front mudguard needs to go central or biased to the front, but that can wait a while. the exhaust is all but finished apart from polishing and adding the hoops for the springs.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/08/seat-base.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/08/mockup-1-copy.jpg)

many (many!) years ago I modified the frame on a Bultaco for a race seat. I put a complete back end on, much like what I have done here. I made very careful measurements using various fixings as datums, and welded it all up. soon as it was finished, and the seat on,  it was evident that it didn’t sit straight on the bike. I was gutted as I had painted the frame. No one else noticed, but it bugged the hell out of me for years! I learned from this, these days, here is how I do it… I get the bike dead upright to a spirit level on the wheel, and then make sure the seat is level. seems to work!

I have also made a new purchase...  an auto darkening welding mask...  why the hell I didn't buy one years ago I just don't know!  its so much easier!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/08/is-it-straight-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/08/frame-hoop-copy-2.jpg)

With the new seat the rear foot pegs were too far back, and uncomfortable for her legs, so important to get this right!   [laugh] [laugh] I have made some new hangers out of 10 and 12mm steel  tube. I made a jig first so all the angles and bolt holes were correct, and it wouldn't move as I brazed it. this is my first time TIG brazing and I was worried about strength, so I did a test piece first and tried to break the joint...  the parent metal broke before the joint so all is well there!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/08/rear-footrest.jpg)

Must have a happy pillion. [thumbsup]

happy wife, happy life  [laugh]

been taking a few days off and getting about a bit on the bike and in the car. I have to say Covid and the restrictions to normal life have got to me a bit!

I got my parts back from the water jet cutter, another superb job! while I was there he was cutting through a 150mm block of exotic alloy! I designed the number plate bracket, the headlight brackets, and the number plate backing on CAD and sent it to him… a few days later I picked this up. I could have cut it by hand but this is so easy. I was going to sell the number plate, but I have decided to keep it… L90 fits the engine configuration!  below is a short video of him cutting the plates

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGbLKwYDoSg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGbLKwYDoSg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/09/51433264262_9d04efcccf_o.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/09/51434186364_9c59abcc86_o.jpg)

Strip down begins… the bike is now all in pieces and the frame and wheels are at the powder coaters. The engine is all in pieces as well ready to have the cases vapour blasted. Engine wise its all good apart from the exhaust valve guides which is a common problem on these engines… I need to replace the guides. Its easy to check if they are worn, here is a little video to show how to check them… the valve needs to “just” off its seat.

Here is a puller I made to remove the gearbox bearings.   I know you can buy blind bearing pullers (I have a set) but for the gearbox bearings on the Ducati engine they don’t work well as there is no inner race to pull on, and you end up pulling the rollers out and breaking the plastic cage!  They are also expensive bearings to replace at £60 each….  This puller expands fully into the rollers as the bolt rides up the internal taper.  Also a primary gear puller I made a few years ago, along with the dimensions for that.  I know you can buy them also (£150… where is the fun in that) but this cost me £20 for the laser cutter to knock me out 5 sets!  Happy to share the CAD drawing…

checking for guide wear...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rV2OPrxpNw



(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/09/strip-down.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/09/gearbos-bearing-puller-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/09/gearbox-bearing-puller-3-copy.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/09/gearbox-bearing-puller.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/09/puller-1.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/09/puller-3.jpg)
(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/09/primary-gear-puller.jpg)

Great job on the puller!

Thanks!

Collected the frame and wheels from Redditch shotblasting… another superb job! its a 50 mile round trip for me, but well worth it for his quality work!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/frame-and-wheels-2.jpg)

My  engine cases are back from the vapour blasters… another superb job from SP Vapour Blasting who are meticulous and I completely trust to do a good job! When I get them back, the first thing I do is clean them of any media that is left from the cleaning process. They were VERY clear of media, but I like to be sure! I then inspect all the threads. No point in building the engine up to find you have suspect threads, as at this stage its easy to rectify any that are poor. As it happens the only two that needed attention were the ones that hold the stand bracket on. This is a common failure point and I have seen a few cases cracked in this area due to lose bolts. I drilled the hole out and used a M10 x 1.5 helicoil. As these are a couple of really stressed bolts I use a double depth helicoil inserts (see picture for comparison) , just to make a good job of it.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/helicoil-3-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/helicoil-5.jpg)

Starting to assemble the heads.  New exhaust guides fitted as the originals were badly worn.  I heated the heads up to remove and replace the guides, and made a tool to knock them in up to the register.  It’s long enough to go through a guide in which is a snug fit in the valve seat so I can ensure it all goes in perfectly straight.   Also I have a tool to fit the valve stem oil seals…  if you use a socket it damages the rubber on the seal.  Two of the rockers had started to peel the hard surface off…  I have replaced with good second hand ones.   My Dad bought me that tin of grinding paste 50 years ago…. I can vividly remember him sitting in the chair in our back room with a BSA Gold Star cylinder head on his lap grinding the valves in for me…. My mother looking on with disapproval  :mrgreen:  it’s done well, only recently run out!


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/51556847598_d5c8cc3cd6_o.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/heads-build-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/worn-rockers-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/grinding-paste-copy.jpg)

I assume it was the exhaust rockers that were shot?

yes, interestingly the horizontal cylinder only

when people say to me Ducati bikes are expensive to service I ask them if they have ever done the valve clearances!  on this engine there are 8 clearances to set, on the 4V there are 16!  at £12 a shim and with the time involved no wonder its expensive!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/valve-clearances-copy.jpg)

Build-up of the engine commences… The tool for holding the flywheel is essential. This one is home made, but they are cheap anyway. When people say wedge a penny in the gears I cringe  [bang]

One important thing to remember is there is one special bolt in the cases that acts as an oil feed to the LH case. This needs to go in a certain hole!

The bottle of oil is strategically placed...  I am so ashamed of the welding on that engine frame  :o

I had a little help bead blasting the other day!  [coffee]

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/flywheel-tool-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/special-bolt-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/kaitlin-copy.jpg)

There is something satisfying about doing the hydraulics. I pulled everything apart and gave it all a good clean, bead blasted everything and put it all back together with a smear of rubber brake grease and brake fluid. I didn’t replace any of the rubbers on this build, all seems to be in nice condition, so they just got a quick wash in methylated spirits.

Last update for a few days...  I will be 66 tomorrow... a Pensioner! Another milestone reached!  My wife is treating me to a few days away and we have family things planned!


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/brake-rebuild-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/brake-rebuild-2-copy.jpg)

Congratulations and enjoy your time!

We look forward to you picking things back up when you return.

Mark

The blasted heads, what were they blasted with?
Do you do anything to them after blasting to keep them from getting dirty, preventing road grime to stick etc?

Enjoy the celebrations and break..

They came up well. [thumbsup]

they are vapour blasted...  with glass bead.  the advantage of this is its a closed surface, and oil and dirt wipe off.  if you grit blast alloy it opens the surface and you end up with a finish that attracts dirt and finger prints.  its difficult to remove it.  with bead its nice and shiny and smoothed.  here is the difference, the one is blasted with aluminium oxide and the other glass bead.  in fact both were blasted with the oxide, and one finished with the bead.  that was done in my dry blaster, but I put the heads and cases out as it takes so long with my small cabinet.  One thing...  if you are using bead, you need a much lower pressure or it just shatters the tiny beads and you end up with powder and a rough finish!

if you use some ACF-50 when its done, the surface stays the same indefinitely  much better than painting in my opinion.


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2020/08/shot-1-copy.jpg)

I took a good look at the forks, and while the sliders were perfect, the anodizing on the legs was past its best. I popped them in the lathe and used some 240 paper to remove the anodising, then followed it up with some 800, and then a polish. they came up a treat! I did consider re-anodizing them but there is so much to polish anyway!  I fitted a couple of new seals, and some new oil. all in all not a difficult job!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/forks-4.jpg)

I did a search for another ST4S fork.

Old ebay ad from a seller with your name came up. Correct?

Anyway: if you should ever get another pair for sale, remember me  8)

Ok, thx.
Mine looks as your left in pic so l think l have to get them blasted a second time,
although they are glass blasted.
ACF-50 seems great for corrosion, also great at preventing road grime etc to stick?

Do you mean S4r forks?  if so that was me...  they were a perfect set as well...

Started the rebuild of the engine… a tip I picked up years ago is its sometimes best to pop the piston in the bore with a ring clamp from the top, and then push it down far enough so you can get the piston pin in from the side… this saves broken rings and that’s important when a set for one piston is over £200! Put some rag in the open crankcase before putting the circlip in though!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/engine-364.jpg)

Probably was (even if my search was for ST4S). I don't need the gold sliders, but want them 8) 

Do you know if the S4R and ST4(S) outer tubes are equal length?




I've seen that done without a rag. Twice. Or actually not seen it. I couldn't watch it and turned my back.

Do you know if the S4R and ST4(S) outer tubes are equal length?

I don't know to be honest...  the S4R forks have gone now so I cant even measure them...

I couldn’t resist modifying the clutch cover… I guess that the clutch is going to be even more noisy now!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/clutch-housing-copy.jpg)

Next job has been to make the plate and trigger wheel for the hall sensors for the ignition. I have made some modifications from the last couple I made, the trigger wheel bigger and i have fitted a heat sink to the plate. I tried to order the same hall sensors as I used the last few times, but everyone seemed to be out of stock, with a delivery date of sept 2022! Fortunately a good friend found me some in Germany, so they are on the way!

The hall sensors are triggered by two tiny magnets in the rim of the trigger wheel, south pole turns the hall on, north off.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/51620219952_a4286ed4ca_c.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/51621050871_0ce82bf5a0_c.jpg)

Finished making the belt covers… they cut easily with a hole saw and a diamond wheel in the Dremel… as does the 3mm Polycarbonate. not everyone like the fake carbon look...  but I like it, and its very durable when coated with some 2K clear.  In fact, more durable than the real thing in some case!  Its cheap and easy to do as well...  here is a short video of the process...

the engine is now finished, time to start assembly soon!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jh6Hh1F0-Yg





(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/belt-covers.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/51624862821_619944e51b_o-copy.jpg)

Pleasing to the eye from a number of aspects.

started to pull it all together now, its amazing how quickly it all comes together once the engine is finished...  it must be the easiest bike to put the engine in!

slight halt in proceeding now though, the car failed its MOT yesterday so I have to fix that...  the parts are only available from Mercedes and only Germany hold stock...  first time in over 40 years one of our cars has failed an MOT...  I was guttted!  :'(

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/51630295137_b1e26dc37d_o-copy.jpg)

The rear shocker was actually OK…. but the plating was poor on many of the parts, and I knew that would niggle me! so I pulled it all apart and zinc plated all the parts that needed it, including the banjos on the end of the pipe. I bought a new seal kit, and some oil and re-assembled. the only tricky part was undoing the threaded centre tube out of the body. I didn't want to use grips so I wrapped some thin rubber around it and tightened a couple of jubilee clips around it and used the grips on that. worked a treat!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/shocker-12345.jpg)

here are a few photos of the detail as it comes together… I am particularly pleased with the rear number plate arrangement and speedo housing. 

Another batch of polishing done...  its a hard, filthy and quite dangerous job, so I tend to do it in batches, I thought this was the last batch, but as usual when I had finished and cleaned the workshop and myself... I find parts I have missed!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/51640943011_b8a3c990cb_o.jpg)

Funny how you think some jobs are going to be easy… I needed to bend some stainless steel rod into some hoops for the exhausts springs… easy enough I though, and tried to bend it over an 8mm bolt. After about the 5th attempt and failing to get a nice radius I ran out of rod..  [bang] I needed to think again! so I made this little jig and managed to finally get some nice even bends!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/stainless-bend.jpg)

Started work on the wiring diagram… I always do one of these for a build, and invest some time in it as (1) its easier to design in stages, and ( 2) I think of the poor next owner trying to fault find in years to come! and (3) I can do it while she watches stuff like Strictly come dancing  [laugh]

Its not finished yet, but its getting there. I love the wiring stage of a build

I did start to do it on my iPad on an App… which was a actually very good... but I got conned! after a few days it came up “your trial period is over – please pay” I wish I had spotted that in the small print before I started! so it was back to good old Microsoft Visio

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/ducati-9-wire-diagram-v-1.jpg)

Late to this party, but welded on now.  Some awesomeness goin' on here for sure  [clap]

+1...  have been excitedly watching for new posts of the progress for a few weeks now...

Good Stuff!! [thumbsup]

probably last update for a while as its detail stuff now, and paint prep...

First time in the sunlight for a while… the exhaust is now finished and I have added a heat shield to protect the underside of the seat, and some protectors for the stanchions.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/in-the-street-6.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/in-the-street-5.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/in-the-street-1.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/in-the-street-2.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/in-the-sterrt-best.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/in-the-street-4.jpg)

 [drool] [thumbsup] [beer]

Not pissing in your pocket as we say here, but...
There's a new type of porn, intake porn. I just like your manifold solutions. You would also have useful things to say at the Borgo Panigale design team meetings.
Good choice of tyres. I run them on my M750 and while not great anywhere but hard packed dirt roads, they are not bad most places.

yes, the reviews on the tyres are good...  I think they suit what I am trying to achieve on the look...

A little break today to do something I love doing… making things from scratch…. I have always liked the window in the cover on some of the bevel bikes, so I decided to make a window for the desmo valve gear…

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/51659816644_6440c95c98_o.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/51659393568_5209e7cf09_o.jpg)

Friends make this kind of stuff for each other.

Can I be your friend?

Stopintime...  It took almost 2 days to make it and a LOT of filing  [laugh]

One of the things I like to do on any build is to rubber mount any electrical components, it gives them a much easier life. The coils and the rear number plate holder are therefore supported by rubber bushes with collars in them to isolate the components from vibration. The coil rubbers are a standard size, but I needed to have a custom pair for the rear number plate as it was a none standard size. Rubber is almost impossible to turn… I read people put it in the freezer and use a very sharp tool, but in my experience that simply does not work… What does work is grinding it. Here is a 30 second video of widening the groove in a rubber bush in the lathe with a cutting disc in a Dremel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-vn8Qtouss

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/rubber-bush-3.jpg)

In an effort to keep the lines of the bike as clean as I can, I have designed the loom to all come together under the tank, which makes it a little messy under there… I also struggled to make a bracket for the fuel tap I am using… I wont divulge how long that little bracket took to make! :o

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/wireing-1-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/51679356568_41182e090e_o-copy.jpg)

Cross bar, but kind of floating. Not welded to the frame. Then a number of small flat brackets, like those Ducati put on our frames, to slide the connectors on to. I guess....

yes, I like those little brackets, I left them on!

into some of the detail jobs now… Somehow I “lost” the brake light switch… I remember taking it off and putting it and the tiny plunger into a plastic bag… after spending a frustrating couple of hours searching (and finding stuff I had forgotten I had!!) I admitted defeat and bought a Hydraulic one, which worked out OK as I needed a new double banjo bolt to fit the brake lines! I took apart the stand switch cleaned and re- assembled and covered the cables with braided sleeving, which I find great. Its important the switch works well as its connected to the ignition… When the stand is down, the engine is limited to 2000 RPM, which prevents you pulling away with it down. Also made up some custom HT leads with copper cores so I can just use resistor plugs.

Finally I finished the ignition trigger… I have made a few of these in the past, but this time when I tried to order the Hall Sensors they were out of stock, with a delivery date of sept 22! There are alternatives, but better the devil you know… A good friend managed to find me 5 in Germany though. I held them in place with some hot glue, and then filled the void with potting compound which I have never used before. if anyone wants to make a trigger, the values of the capacitors and resistors are on the diagram.

the hall sensors are triggered by tiny magnets ( 3 x 5 mm) The south pole turns it on, north off… which means you have to determine the pole of the magnets! this is easily done by floating them on a piece of wood where they quickly align.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/51692933659_2a594d845b_o.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/ignition-2.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/north-pole.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/mall-diagram.jpg)

Fitted the new cambelts today… I like the Gates carbon Drive app to tension the belts. It measures the frequency of them when you give them a twang, like a guitar string, very sensitive and accurate. I set them to 110 HZ which also “feels” right.

I also went to pick up the oil cooler pipes I had dropped off to have the ends crimped on…I just don’t have the tool to do this. The miserable git plonked them on the counter and said £20… I looked and he had fitted different size ferrules on the ends… when I pointed this out he shrugged and told me it didn’t matter… well it does to my OCD… ;D he was not happy when I refused to pay! This is why I hate putting work out.  [bang]

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/51696299263_f7d7e47e1b_o.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/crimp.jpg)

 ??? Must fix  [thumbsup]

you did make me think about it!  problem is its's such a beefy tool and complex to make... time to find another supplier I think

into the detailed jobs at the moment, in preparation for start up. The oil cooler was pretty tatty so I left it in a container with some thinners in the bottom for a few days, then washed the paint straight off. As its aluminium and I was going to paint it, I grit blasted it before giving a a thin coat of etch primer, followed by a couple of coats of satin black, which I prefer over matt. It came out really well.

Then onto the carb installation. The outer diameter of the carb inlets are different to that of the fuel filter, so I needed a “T” piece with different size ends. I made one out of brass and silver soldered the parts together. Finally I needed some cable adjusters. I popped to the cycle shop where I buy my bowden cable to make the throttle cables but they didn’t have any suitable. Again I ended up making these out of brass and a couple of bolts. The yellow tube is Tygon, made for Ethanol fuel. its very flexible and I like the idea I can see through it! It works best with Mikalor clips which are quite neat.

Finally I fitted the frame number sticker with the VIN number on, just to keep the MOT man happy. one of the problems with blasting and powder coating the frame is it becomes very difficult to see the frame number.

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/oil-cooler.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/51703659110_2ab5caf2f1_o.jpg)

One aspect of a build I like to get right is the throttle action...  too quick and action and its jerky to ride and often heavy...  too slow an action and it becomes two handfuls to fully open and I hate that...

I popped the cable on with the twin pull throttle of the Multistrada and it was just too quick and heavy...  I needed to take 1mm off the diameter where the cables run.  Of course you cant just pop it in the lathe as the cable boss prevents that...  I looked at doing it in the milling machine and couldn't see any way of doing it... so I came up with this!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlxAjcEi7Kk

Well I would like to say it started first time… [roll]  but it didn’t… I would like to say I found the problem in 10 mins… [roll] but I spent HOURS looking why it didn’t start. In the end I tracked it down to the fact that I had placed the magnets wrong on the ignition trigger wheel!  [bang] [bang]

 easily sorted soon as I spotted it.

https://youtu.be/WVhmfhXmU7Q

Thank you for the beautiful music.

Unusually good throttle response for a 1000?  [Dolph]

bloody fabulous  [clap] [clap] [clap]

I wasn’t really in the market for another project just yet…  [laugh]  but when this came along VERY cheap, I couldn’t resist! Its tatty but is a runner and sounds sweet!  I think it will be a good basis for a project…  I have done 9 Ducati’s now, need a change!  Watch this space!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/guzzi-2.jpg)

Perfect, thinking of an EV myself in near future.
Full Monty resto, including clutch, driveline and forks or what?

I wont do a restoration...  just use it as a basis for a custom bike...  already ordered the tank and carbs!

I am So SO annoyed with myself… the tank has taken days to get to the right shape… I etch primed it… prefect… 2K primer… perfect… just needed flatting before the base coat. Unfortunately I went through to the bare metal on an edge… Not wanting to have to fill the gun with 2K again I used some 1K primer… As the base coat dried… the 1K primer reacted… lesson learned!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/51741620413_ff1b6275cc_o.jpg)

Well the tank is finally finished, bar for a mop and polish.  It took a lot of time to rectify the paint reaction...  I had to sand back to bare metal, and re primer the lot...  I then put the tank above the radiator in the small bathroom and left the radiator on for 2 days to fully harden ...I had complaints about the smell of paint!!!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/51750547916_9cc4446128_o-copy.jpg)

Tell the complaint'er that it's free anti bug treatment  [thumbsup]

you come and tell her... I am not that brave, and in need of brownie points!

My build is coming to an end...  here is how it looks with clothes on....

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/51753853392_f3b80faac0_o-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/finished-2-copy.jpg)

Too pretty to go on dirt.

BROWNIES  [drool]

Awesome - a much overused word.  But I am in awe of the range and depth of your skills  [clap] [clap] [clap]

Looking forward to seeing your Guzzi build (while I too play over winter with my own much more modest Guzzi project).

Your work is impeccable, and I share ung's appreciation of your skillset.

You do need to find a paint supplier with more than one color, however. There are others you know. Sorry...had to say it.

What an awesome and unique build. It's certainly better looking than any of the factory scrambler bikes.  [thumbsup]

This will be my last post for a while...  the Ducati build is almost at an end and before I start the next project I have a list of house DIY jobs to do :lol

this has been my 9th Ducati build / restoration so I fancy a change...  the next bike will be a Guzzi 1100 :D 

For now, here is a short video that tells the story of the last build...

merry Christmas!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crADLkGfx3w

I know...  I do seem to have a thing about orange!  ;D

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/51773167012_dc8cdd23cb_o-copy.jpg)

A couple of things were bugging me about this build… one was the inlet manifold where I had used the original rubber manifolds, they looked out of place, and gave to much movement on the carbs. I decided to re-make the manifolds. they are a bit difficult as the carbs are bigger than the port, so I had to expand some alloy tube a bit with a tapered mandrel.

The other thing was the foam filters… I really wanted bell mouths, but as the carbs were forward facing it was to risky to have big open, sucking carbs… So I decided to make some bell mouths with mesh… they came out well! I have also tidied up the under seat area.

Finally, I set the timing accurately it was out by 2 degrees cylinder to cylinder, probably do to me getting the positioning of the hall sensors slightly out. Its easy to correct for that in the ignitech software though.

A couple more videos...  she says it sounds like a bag of spanners with the clutch out!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7tI42rBjfw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brYe3Hnpd1g

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/01/bell-mouths.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/01/manifolds-3.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/01/bell-mouth-4-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/01/carbs-bell-mouth-copy.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/01/under-seat.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/01/timing-2.jpg)

That under seat area is so tidy.

If I lived up the road I would have ordered manifolds from time to time instead of friggin' around with various rubber adaptors.

Really appreciate what you do with metal.

Fantastic work [beer]

Top work as always. [thumbsup]

Any plans for a spin on the Dyno, engine sound really peppy w Ignitech?

to be honest it runs so well I don't think i will bother...  more to the point...  they scare me!

Question for you guys...  My Ducati builds have come to an end for now as I have gone to the dark side and bought a Guzzi, which I will be doing a custom build on.

The question is, do I continue to post in this thread the progress on the Guzzi if you guys are interested in its progress, or say goodbye until the next Ducati?  happy to do either...

I have to say I find some of the Guzzi guys a bit "strange" !!!

Here is the Guzzi on the hoist!

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2022/02/51872449199_d662666f29_o.jpg)

Do post the build!  New thread might be a good idea, but either way I will be looking.

New thread is more appropriate.

Also, only paying sponsors whether full, or minor, can post links to websites or blogs in their signature line. If you want to post a link to your blog it will have to be done in your profile using the profile/modify profile/website title/website url.

If you want to become a sponsor, please contact me via pm.

Thanks.

well its a while since I posted on this thread...  I did quite a few miles on this build this year as its now the only bike I own with a dual seat after I sold my Harley V-ROD...  My wife likes to ride pillion but the Harley just became too heavy for me to move around  :(

However, I never liked the way the exhaust looked...  so out came the welder and I made another...  I am not keen on lobster cut bends so I have used some stainless mandrel bends, which are quite cheap and come in many angles.  A tip when making exhausts is to temporarily hold things together with Jubilee clips, and if you slot a couple, you can tack through the slot which keeps things nicely aligned  :D

No full bike build for me this year  :(  house renovations instead, but they are now almost complete...)  Happy wife, happy life  :lol:

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/12/53385901355_6f3791d8f1_c.jpg)

(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/12/53384543892_26acae545c_c.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/12/53385648318_061d8693c4_c.jpg)


(https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2023/12/53385461546_a59e766456_c.jpg)

 [thumbsup]

Beautiful.