another Ducati 1000 build....

[buzzer]

Starting to assemble the heads.  New exhaust guides fitted as the originals were badly worn.  I heated the heads up to remove and replace the guides, and made a tool to knock them in up to the register.  It’s long enough to go through a guide in which is a snug fit in the valve seat so I can ensure it all goes in perfectly straight.   Also I have a tool to fit the valve stem oil seals…  if you use a socket it damages the rubber on the seal.  Two of the rockers had started to peel the hard surface off…  I have replaced with good second hand ones.   My Dad bought me that tin of grinding paste 50 years ago…. I can vividly remember him sitting in the chair in our back room with a BSA Gold Star cylinder head on his lap grinding the valves in for me…. My mother looking on with disapproval  :mrgreen:  it’s done well, only recently run out!

[greenmonster]

I assume it was the exhaust rockers that were shot?

[buzzer]

I assume it was the exhaust rockers that were shot?

yes, interestingly the horizontal cylinder only

[buzzer]

when people say to me Ducati bikes are expensive to service I ask them if they have ever done the valve clearances!  on this engine there are 8 clearances to set, on the 4V there are 16!  at £12 a shim and with the time involved no wonder its expensive!

[buzzer]

Build-up of the engine commences… The tool for holding the flywheel is essential. This one is home made, but they are cheap anyway. When people say wedge a penny in the gears I cringe 

One important thing to remember is there is one special bolt in the cases that acts as an oil feed to the LH case. This needs to go in a certain hole!

The bottle of oil is strategically placed...  I am so ashamed of the welding on that engine frame 

I had a little help bead blasting the other day! 

[buzzer]

There is something satisfying about doing the hydraulics. I pulled everything apart and gave it all a good clean, bead blasted everything and put it all back together with a smear of rubber brake grease and brake fluid. I didn’t replace any of the rubbers on this build, all seems to be in nice condition, so they just got a quick wash in methylated spirits.

Last update for a few days...  I will be 66 tomorrow... a Pensioner! Another milestone reached!  My wife is treating me to a few days away and we have family things planned!

[Mhanis]

Congratulations and enjoy your time!

We look forward to you picking things back up when you return.

Mark

[greenmonster]

The blasted heads, what were they blasted with?
Do you do anything to them after blasting to keep them from getting dirty, preventing road grime to stick etc?

[koko64]

Enjoy the celebrations and break..

They came up well.

[buzzer]

The blasted heads, what were they blasted with?
Do you do anything to them after blasting to keep them from getting dirty, preventing road grime to stick etc?

they are vapour blasted...  with glass bead.  the advantage of this is its a closed surface, and oil and dirt wipe off.  if you grit blast alloy it opens the surface and you end up with a finish that attracts dirt and finger prints.  its difficult to remove it.  with bead its nice and shiny and smoothed.  here is the difference, the one is blasted with aluminium oxide and the other glass bead.  in fact both were blasted with the oxide, and one finished with the bead.  that was done in my dry blaster, but I put the heads and cases out as it takes so long with my small cabinet.  One thing...  if you are using bead, you need a much lower pressure or it just shatters the tiny beads and you end up with powder and a rough finish!

if you use some ACF-50 when its done, the surface stays the same indefinitely  much better than painting in my opinion.

[buzzer]

I took a good look at the forks, and while the sliders were perfect, the anodizing on the legs was past its best. I popped them in the lathe and used some 240 paper to remove the anodising, then followed it up with some 800, and then a polish. they came up a treat! I did consider re-anodizing them but there is so much to polish anyway!  I fitted a couple of new seals, and some new oil. all in all not a difficult job!

[stopintime]

I did a search for another ST4S fork.

Old ebay ad from a seller with your name came up. Correct?

Anyway: if you should ever get another pair for sale, remember me 

[greenmonster]

Ok, thx.
Mine looks as your left in pic so l think l have to get them blasted a second time,
although they are glass blasted.
ACF-50 seems great for corrosion, also great at preventing road grime etc to stick?

[buzzer]

I did a search for another ST4S fork.

Old ebay ad from a seller with your name came up. Correct?

Anyway: if you should ever get another pair for sale, remember me 

Do you mean S4r forks?  if so that was me...  they were a perfect set as well...

Started the rebuild of the engine… a tip I picked up years ago is its sometimes best to pop the piston in the bore with a ring clamp from the top, and then push it down far enough so you can get the piston pin in from the side… this saves broken rings and that’s important when a set for one piston is over £200! Put some rag in the open crankcase before putting the circlip in though!

[stopintime]

Do you mean S4r forks?  if so that was me...  they were a perfect set as well...
................

Probably was (even if my search was for ST4S). I don't need the gold sliders, but want them  

Do you know if the S4R and ST4(S) outer tubes are equal length?

.....
Put some rag in the open crankcase before putting the circlip in though!
......

I've seen that done without a rag. Twice. Or actually not seen it. I couldn't watch it and turned my back.