Simple noob questions...

[Spidey]

this is not true!  Car oil works fine with a wet clutch. Moble 1 synthetic at least...

Oye.  Fine, we can get into the nitty gritty.  How's this -- don't use car oil with friction modifiers (not always easy to tell from the bottle).  Even then, some car oils with friction modifiers may actually work fine.  But the only way to figure out is on a trial basis.  Instead, why don't you just avoid car oil for now (unles you want to run Mobil 1) and just stick with motorcycle-specific stuff?

[MendoDave]

I bought a 5 quart bottle of mobile 1 full synthetic from Wal Mart for $22 Actually I bought 2 of them.
On my first Bike I used to run regular old Penzoil with no ill effects. Come to think of it that's what I ran in my CR125 as well. It was only when I topped off with some ATF one day that it screwed up the clutch. Don't do that. 
 

[Monsterlover]

Oye.  Fine, we can get into the nitty gritty.  How's this -- don't use car oil with friction modifiers (not always easy to tell from the bottle).  Even then, some car oils with friction modifiers may actually work fine.  But the only way to figure out is on a trial basis.  Instead, why don't you just avoid car oil for now (unles you want to run Mobil 1) and just stick with motorcycle-specific stuff?

acceptable

[speedknot]

Thanks. Great link.

Unless Duck-Stew got his hands on it.

If you don't have an owner's manual you can down load one here
http://www.ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do

[speedknot]

Oye.  Fine, we can get into the nitty gritty.  How's this -- don't use car oil with friction modifiers (not always easy to tell from the bottle).  Even then, some car oils with friction modifiers may actually work fine.  But the only way to figure out is on a trial basis.  Instead, why don't you just avoid car oil for now (unles you want to run Mobil 1) and just stick with motorcycle-specific stuff?

I second that.  I know a lot of it is marketing B.S. but I do feel more comfortable using wet clutch approved oils.  I'm using Mobil 1 V-Twin oil. 

[ducpainter]

Your clutch lever is adjustable, for grab. It's a small bolt in a similar place as in my picture.
It adjust freeplay - too much and it won't fully disengage - too little and it will slip even if engaged.
Procedure here: (scroll down)   http://www.ducatisuite.com/leverchange.html

Aftermarket levers should have these adjusters - and the clicker (red in my picture) which adjusts the distance from bar to lever.

You need to be careful when adjusting those screws.

They are for bleed back into the reservoir. If you get it wrong your clutch will slip and if you do the same on the brake side they could lock up.

[Howie]

You need to be careful when adjusting those screws.

They are for bleed back into the reservoir. If you get it wrong your clutch will slip and if you do the same on the brake side they could lock up.

Yep, you need 1-1.5 mm free play.  This is not an adjustment for reach.

[stopintime]

Your clutch lever is adjustable, for grab. It's a small bolt in a similar place as in my picture.
It adjust freeplay - too much and it won't fully disengage - too little and it will slip even if engaged.
Procedure here: (scroll down)   http://www.ducatisuite.com/leverchange.html

Aftermarket levers should have these adjusters - and the clicker (red in my picture) which adjusts the distance from bar to lever.

This is what I wrote. It's correct, precise and an important piece of information for DIY'ers - even for some professionals.
(assuming the OP means where in it's travel the lever will operate the clutch plates)
The procedure I linked to explains it in detail.

[speedknot]

This is what I wrote. It's correct, precise and an important piece of information for DIY'ers - even for some professionals.
(assuming the OP means where in it's travel the lever will operate the clutch plates)
The procedure I linked to explains it in detail.

Thanks a lot.  That is a great resource.  Good pics too.

[the_Journeyman]

Here's my take.  I have a 1999 M750.

1.  I run Rotella or Devlac 15W-40 oil.  Diesel formulated oils have a nice additive package that lasts well with the strain an air/oil cooled motor puts on the oil

2.  Bleed your clutch thoroughly before you worry about adjustments.

3.  87 Octane is fine, the OEM build on the motor is not high compression.  If you mod with high compression pistons, you may need a higher octane rating.

4.  My clutch is not clunky at all.  All I have is a rebuilt (by me) OEM slave.  The only difference between my M750 and yours is FI and possibly dual front discs.

5.  I use the LT Snyder (Desmo Times) book for all my maintenance.  It is missing details about fork construction, but it's a great book.  Nobody by me as worked on EITHER of my air cooled Ducs since I bought them.  The LT book is all I have for a service manual/guide.

PM me if you need to, I've got 34,000 miles on my M750 and it runs great aside from a bit rich.

JM