check engine light and won't turn over

Started by VisceralReaction, September 18, 2012, 08:34:57 AM

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Howie

There is also a chart on the US site that is my preference, even though they make no mention of beer.


VisceralReaction

Thanks Howie, that was actually the PDF that I used to trouble shoot it. Though the other tells how to actually test the RR.
Going to do that tonight.
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VisceralReaction

Well over the weekend I pulled the old RR out and replaced it and hardwired it in to avoid burnt connections etc in the future.
I started the bike and got 12.5v at idle and 12.6 at 5000rpm. It's now the stator or something else I guess.
There are squirrels juggling knives in my head

ducpainter

Quote from: VisceralReaction on September 24, 2012, 10:31:05 AM
Well over the weekend I pulled the old RR out and replaced it and hardwired it in to avoid burnt connections etc in the future.
I started the bike and got 12.5v at idle and 12.6 at 5000rpm. It's now the stator or something else I guess.
Probably the stator...

but first I'd ohm out the wiring from the stator. It's remotely possible it's damaged where it exits the cases.
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VisceralReaction

Roger that. I don't know when I'll get to this now. Trying to fix an electrical gremlin in the car too and the weather here
can change to winter at anytime now. Car is more important I guess at this point though it pains me to say that.
I've got the diagnostic flow chart and I'll work through that and see what I find. Thanks for the insight. I appreciate everyone's help
and advise.
There are squirrels juggling knives in my head

Speeddog

If you can get it started, check the AC voltage on the alternator output.

IIRC, should be at least 20 VAC at 2k rpm, and 70+ at 5k rpm.
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beethoven

I had issues with my 900 charging a couple of years ago. Howies Electrosport link is brilliant. The Stator test is very quick and easy. As it says measure the three phases and all should be equal and >50v. Mine were all 55v at idle.

The RR tests in Howies link are detailed and definitive. I did these including the diode test and the results proved the RR was at fault. A new Shindengen and all has been good since. I also hard wired the new RR as the connectors looked pretty bad.

Hope you find the problem and are up and running again soon.
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