How to: Check Wet Clutch Securing Nut.

[CairnsDuc]

Ok, We have all seen the results of the Clutch nut in the Wet Clutches coming loose, it can cause a truly epic amount of damage to the engine.

The Clutch nut I am checking in the Photo's below is from my 2007 S2R 800 with 22000 k's on the clock, it is the APTC Slipper.

I have only ever felt the Slipper clutch "Slip" on 1 or 2 occasions when I was Riding the bike hard in the Twisties, When the Clutch "Slips" on down changes it makes a metallic ringing noise and puts a slight vibration/shudder through the bike. While working for a Ducati dealer I rode 2 other wet clutch bikes, I also tried the "Slipper" function, they also made the same sound and vibration.

I now always avoid using the "Slipper" by correct Shifting and rev matching, as I found the sensation of the slipper clutch "Doing it's thing" a bit unnerving.

The Slipper clutch "Slipping" is one of the Suspected reasons that the Nut may be working loose, It is also suspected the Factory may not be Torquing the nut correctly, there are also other reasons, but they have been discussed at length in the Topic located here:
http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=24411.0

*Please Note*
This Topic is not the be all and end all on this Subject, I would like people to add there own experiences and knowledge on this issue.
Did I make a mistake?
Is there an easier way?
Is there a better tool for the job?
Please feel free to add your own Photo's, comments and suggestions to the Thread, we can all learn from the experience of others.

OK, on with the Show.

[CairnsDuc]

Tools for this Job

Oil and an Oil Filter (service was Due anyway, so may as well do it at the same time)
Rubber Gloves (Keep the oil off you)
Socket set
Allen driver set
Torque wrench (Rated to 140 Ft pounds/190nm)
32 mm Socket (For the Clutch Nut)
Gasket or Gasket goo for the Side casing
Loctite Primer
Loctite Red (In this case I'm using Permatex, same thing really)
Clutch Holding Tool (From CA Cycleworks)
Large driver bar or Rattle gun to remove the Clutch nut
Large Rubber mallet.

All righty then, here we go!

Drain the Oil, Do the Tree huggin hippie stuff and dispose of it correctly!
I also changed the filter at the same time, make sure to wear rubber Gloves as used oil is carcinogenic. (Mind you, isn't everything these days!!!  )


Unplug the Oil pressure Switch and remove the Oil pressure switch from the Clutch/Engine cover, As you can see in the Photo's there is a bolt behind it we need to get to for removing the side cover.


Remove all the Allen head bolts from the Cover, I also remove the Horz belt cover, you don't need to, but I do. I like to lay out the bolts in the pattern they were removed, to make it easier for reassembly later, I also put the Belt cover and it's bolts on this cloth, all safe and easy to find later.


Here is the side casing with all bolts removed, and every thing ready for the case to come off.
I now gently tap around the case using the rubber Mallet to loosen the Gasket goo for removal, pull the cover straight off as there is a locating dowel on the lower left corner and it will jam the casing coming off easily if not pulling the cover straight out from the engine.

[CairnsDuc]

And here is the Clutch in it naked form, Before I start pulling the clutch apart I cleaned up all the old Gasket goo, cleaned up any old oil and wiped everything down ready to start work.


In this Pic I am removing the Screws and springs from the pressure plate, When the last one is loosened I had my hand on the clutch, just to stop anything coming apart or flying out.
When all the Screws were out I gave every thing another wipe down to remove old oil.


This is the pressure plate being lifted out from the clutch, while I was removing the Pusher plate (as Ducati calls it) I was holding clutch plates in place as they are now quite loose and could fall out quite easily.


Behold! The Evil Nut!
In this shot you will notice the 3 small springs (for the slipper assembly, shown at the 5, 1 and 9 o'clock positions in the clutch.


After about 5 minutes of juggling the Clutch plates I decided to remove them, they were in the way, make sure if you remove them, you keep them in the exact sequence and facing they were removed.
While doing other things I made sure to Zip tie them together in case they were bumped they would not get out of sequence.


I did not get a shot of my cursing, sweating and swearing while my wife sat on the bike while I used the 32mm socket and breaker bar to remove the nut. That little bastard was super tight!
She sat on the bike and held down the rear brake, I used a long bar and got the nut off. (Sounds almost offensive!   )
I did not remove the nut completely, just brought it forward, cleaned up the thread of oil/debris put on some Red Loctite and then re-secured the nut using 140 Ft pounds/190nm of Torque.
EDIT: Good suggestion from Bazz20 on the OzMonsters Forum, Use some Loctite primer to ensure the best possible performance of the Loctite red, considering how important of a  job this Loctite is doing, I think it is a very smart suggestion.

You will notice in this Pic I have reinstalled the Clutch plates and the 3 small springs.
You will notice the arrow and notch in the basket, I'm not sure if they were meant to be lined up, but I lined them up anyway. I then left the assembly in this form overnight while the Loctite cured.


With the Pressure plate, springs and spring caps back in place I tested the clutch for movement (all appears fine) I then engaged 1st gear and tried to move the bike back and forward with the clutch engaged and disengaged to check for any problems,slip, Etc, again all appears fine.
(And yes, this was with the engine off, remember, no Casing, no Oil)
I applied a thin layer of gasket goo and a Gasket from Ca Cycleworks and proceeded to put the Casing back on.
Check for correct tension of the Casing bolts and filled up the Oil, left it overnight and checked for leaks in the morning (nothing)
I started the bike and checked the clutch in the Garage, it seems to all fine, but with in raining I won't be doing a proper road test today.

*Update* After a break in the rain, I have done a road test, it all appears to shifting fine with no slipping.

[tim_golfer2]

Wow.

Every bit as good as your tail chop instructions.  Excellent. Very clear.

If you can post some nice clear pics of phalloplastic surgery I might get the mrs to have a go at me on the weekend. You make these things look easy. (not that I'm implying that you possess such pictures due to a need for the aforementioned surgery! )

[d6a9p6]

Before you start a disassembly project like this take a cardboard box and on one side make a sketch of the cover showing all of the fastener holes. punch a small hole in the appropriate spots. as you take screws out stick them in their matching holes in the box. When ready to clean things up invert box, spray cleaner on the exposed threads of the screws etc, box holds overspray and crud.If going to locktite, rinse with denatured alcohol- prep for loctite. ready to re-install. easy!  Don

[corey]

Bump for relevance, and a question.

It appears you were able to do this WITHOUT a "clutch holding tool"? Am I correct?
It seems your wife, 6th gear, and the rear brake were your clutch holding tool...
ah, nvm... i see you used one there... my bad.

Also, suppose one had just done an oil change... Assuming the oil was drained into a nice clean aluminum buffet pan, could one then pour his brand new, $12/qt oil back into the motor without much worry?  

[corey]

Also, regarding LOCTITE for this application...
Is it really that wise to use red loctite? What happens down the line when you want to get your clutch off for replacement?

[CairnsDuc]

G'day Corey, I used the Red Loctite because it was the Toughest I could get my Hands on, plus the Clutch Plates all come off without having to remove the nut, I have seen the guys that I used to work with at the Ducati Dealership also use Red Loctite on the Wet Clutches, Mainly because the Part the Nut Secures (Clutch Basket) doesn't really wear out that often. you have to remember the Wet Clutches don't need as much maintenance  and replacement parts as the Dry Clutches.

The one wet Clutch Basket I did see them replace, when it came time to remove the Nut, he used a Oxy/Acetylene with a very fine tipped torch, to apply heat directly to the join between the Nut and the shaft, it was quite quick (The Main guy who was doing the Job had 20+ years experience with Ducati's) He had his Assistant grab a Breaker Bar with a Socket on it, and while he secured the Basket, he started heating the nut, I would suggest it was only 20 seconds with a quite a small focused flame, his offsider got the nod, Socket was quickly lifted into position and he lent on the breaker bar and the Nut let go. Simple really. As he said to me at the time, you can't apply to much heat to the Shaft or you may damage Shaft seals, Bearing seals Etc.

They Replaced the Clutch Basket (I can't remember why it was replaced or how they figured it was the Clutch Basket, all I know it was causing a Shuddering problem) he Applied Red Loctite, They secured the Nut using The Prescribed amount of pressure, Put the Case back on, sent the bike on it's way the following morning with a fresh belly full of Oil. 12 months later just before I moved Interstate I still used to see that Bike out in the Twisties, so it must have worked! 

[memper]

Is this a concern on all wet clutch models? I have a 99 750

[corey]

while the S2R800 and 695 have an APTC clutch system that could be a contributing factor to the nut "untorquing" itself — likely making it more common than on other wet clutch monsters or bikes in general — it's still a good idea to have the clutch hub securing nut checked at a reasonable interval. Every 10,000 miles seems to be the recommended sweet spot.

[xsephirot]

Thanks for the tutorial with pictures! Question: what do you use to clean up the clutch basket and the thread for the nut? Brake cleaner or acetone?