M620 no spark with key on more than 10 secs

[Howie]

It might be worth checking that he ecu is properly bolted down to its heat sink. Running the coils continually draws a fair bit of power, which goes through big transistors in the ecu. They're probably overheating and shutting down.

That said, I don't think it's reasonable to expect the ecu to drive the coils continually when you're not trying to start the bike. If I was coding it, I'd put a timeout in for self preservation.

Makes sense to me (both comments).  Bolted down is an easy check.  It is common on computer controlled cars to cut power when not running or cranking.  If you tested yours while not cranking, try it cranking.  Or maybe someone with a known good bike could test theirs after 10 seconds of no cranking, key on.  I would, but mine is a carbie.

[mantzas]

Trying another ecu is not an option unfortunaly since none of my friends rides a monster.

The coils dont run the whole time. They have 12v when you turn the key on and while pump priming and then 0. Then when you press the start button the voltage comes back.

I will check if it's bolted correctly and report back.

[brad black]

Trying another ecu is not an option unfortunaly since none of my friends rides a monster.

The coils dont run the whole time. They have 12v when you turn the key on and while pump priming and then 0. Then when you press the start button the voltage comes back.

I will check if it's bolted correctly and report back.

the coils are on the same circuit as the fuel pump, so they are only powered when the ecu is initially turned on or receiving a signal from the rotation sensor.  so what you describe is correct.

[mantzas]

Checked the ecu and is fully bolted, no bent pins or aything.
Ideas??

[Howie]

Did you read Brad Black's post? 

[mantzas]

Yes we are saying the same thing.
In my case though if 10 secs have passed and I press the start button no current goes to the coils.

[brad black]

if you press and hold the start button and the engine cranks you should then have power at the coils, injectors and fuel pump.  if there isn't power at any of them then I would suspect the rotation sensor.  if there is power at the pump then look at the relays.  look at the relays anyway, and test them with a test light on the output.  a relay clicking means nothing.

[mantzas]

Yeah i thought of that sensor too, but everything else works as it should. I  pushed start button with  wot and saw fuel squirting in the throttle bodies.

I also have replaced the ralays with eachother, nothing changed.

[mantzas]

Got to the dealer to buy an oil pressure sensor and asked him to plug it in the diagnostic.
It showed tps, engine rpm, air temp sensors failed.
How possible is that all of them go bad the same time?
I guess they might got bad when i power washed it but then I disconnected all of them and sprayed them with contacts spray.
So we erased the faults from the memory and I'll go back after 2-3 days to see if they come back.

[mantzas]

Went back to the dealer and the diagnostic didnt show any faluts this time.

Any ideas anyone??

[cmejia1978]

have you tried to start it with a screw driver? let me explain: at the starter coil, with the kill sensor ON, gear NEUTRAL, just in case you have the kickstand sensor activ, and key at ON, with a screw driver, jump start it, tip of the screwdriver on left bolt and at the same time touch right bolt, if it starts or at least turn the engine, etc, then you have an electrical make the beast with two backsed up start sensor, just like the one I had... if it starts, come back and let me know for the 2nd part of the fix... another possibility: have you checked your fuel hoses? at the base of the tank, as stupid at it could sound I put new hoses and for an unknown reason they bent and no gas was flowing to the engine or back...