5.5 rear wheel issues on monster 620

[MonsterHPD]

So that means that with my sprocket carrier, the chain is closer to the wheel but aligned with the contershaft sprocket (as with the 4.5)... I think I'm getting crazy with this...  

I don't remember the details, but in our case it started as a practical joke on a friends 620 (I'll spare you the details...) and we thought it would be a breeze. As it turned out we had to re-start the swap about 3 times since things were not what we expected them to be. Maybe my memory fails (well, make that probably), but I think with a new sprocket carrier and flipping the countershaft sprocket it was OK ..... 

[monster_dark]

Now, I've found this experience on the Internet too (it seems to be even more complicated than what we thought...):

When I was looking to do this mod, I found conflicting information. So I dived into it not knowing what to expect... and this is how I made it work.

Bike: 2004 800
Wheel: 2004 ST3

First off, I bout the ST3 wheel, sprocket carrier and the 2 spacers for the sprocket carrier. If you use the ST3 sprocket carrier it will offset your chain from the front sprocket, I thought about flipping over the front sprocket.. dont know if that is possible but I have heard it mentioned, but then my chain wouldnt line up the chain guide on the swingarm... I fitted the bike with the stock sprocket carrier and spacers off the 4.5" wheel, everything lined up and bolted right on, which placed the chain about 2mm from the tire. No big deal because its not going to flex when there is load on the chain, and looking at a few of my friends Japanese bikes, there chain sits about the same. All is well and it looks great!

So when doing this upgrade all you need is the wheel!

Hope this information is useful.

This experience makes me think that the fitment depends on the model and year of the bike, and the model and year of the 5.5 rim... because in my case (2005 monster 620 and monster 1000 rim), the suggested mounting was impossible, the swingarm width didn't let me do it (although this monster models and the rims should have the same measurements..   )

[monster_dark]

I have some conclusions:  
From all the information I've been reading (many hours reading the Internet), I think there are two kind of 5.5 rims (further than the axles diameters differences).

1) There are rims with wider hub on the sprocket side, shorter spacers, and with the same displacement of the sprocket carrier (always comparing with the 4.5 rim), and
2) there are rims with the same width hub, same spacers, and wider displacement of the sprocket carrier

(in both cases, the sprocket wouldn't be aligned with the contershaft sprocket, and it must be flipped).

In the first option (wich seems to be my case), the 4.5 spacers must be shortened, and the sprocket carrier is valid for both rims.
In the second one, the spacers are equal in both rims, and the sprocket carrier for the 5.5 rim must be the original (from the 5.5 rim), to guarantee the chain clears the tire.

Situations I've found:

First option examples:

The 5.5 rim fits with the original (5.5) spacers
The 5.5 rim with the spacers/sprocket of the 4.5 is too wide

Second option examples:

The 5.5 rim fits with the original sprocket carrier
The 5.5 rim (without any other 5.5 wheel element) fits without any modification (but the chain is too close to the tire, sometimes it even touch it).

With those two options all situations would be explained, and also the confusion/contradictions of all the people who talk about this on the Internet.

Any opinion??

[monster_dark]

One more thing:
When we flip the contershaft sprocket, it is 10mm "outer" than the original position, and the 5.5 rim only displaces the chain 5mm, so I've solved it with a suplement (I've taken a photo):



Finally, all the problems seem to be due to the chain, it doesn't fit on the sprocket, it's too stretched (it has 16.000km, not too much but enough), so I'll change the transmision components.
I think I didn't notice it before because on the workshop they left it too slack...

[DarkMonster620]

Remember, measure chain on side stand at middle between sprockets

glad to know issue is solved

[monster_dark]

Remember, measure chain on side stand at middle between sprockets

glad to know issue is solved

That's right, with the old chain that was impossible, sometimes it was too slack and when turning the wheel it turned to be too tight.. that's the way I saw something was going wrong...

[MonsterHPD]

That's right, with the old chain that was impossible, sometimes it was too slack and when turning the wheel it turned to be too tight.. that's the way I saw something was going wrong...

Seems to be the way O-ring chains wear out (if that's what you had). I'm probably on my 4th ot 5th O-ring chain now, I+ve changed them all after about 10K miles when they did just the same. I measured one, I think it had elongated 0.6%. Not much, but very visible if you put the old and the new chain beside each other.
I cut a few links open, and some were rusty on the inside, no grease or anything left inside.