Dead Bike Stator / Regulator Rectifier? FIXED

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

Output is stator wire to stator wire.  Follow what Speeddog says.  Either in your mind or by labeling call one wire A, one B and one C.  As Speeddog says, " measure the AC voltage between A-B, A-C, AND B-C."

Yup, that's exactly what I did. With the bike running I put the multi into AB - 5k rpm I got 11 volts instead of 50. Then took A out and put it in C,  BC got 11 volts at 5k rpm. Took B out and went to A. AC got 11k volts at 5k rpm.

I'm about to take out the 3 yellow wires from their plug on the stator side to inspect.

Edit: All three yellow stator output wires have been checked. They were clean, nothing burnt. I cleaned all connections with electrical cleaner anyway. I'll do the tests again tomorrow but I don't expect anything to change.

[Speeddog]

If you're getting 11 volts AC between A-B-C at 5k rpm, the stator is sacked, or wires compromised.

A-B-C to case (engine off) are what? in ohms.
If it was .07 ohms, the wire(s) are shorted to the armature.

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

Question for you guys. When checking the AC voltage from the stator should the RR be disconnected? Should I be testing ABC contacts from the disconnected plug?

Edit: I found my answer (unplug the stator), I will retest today and post back up.

Edit # 2: Checked voltage again. I got 38 volts twice and 50volts once checking AB, BC, CA. Checking the Ohms I got 1.3, 1.1 and .6. I also got an ohms reading from all three wires when I grounded them.

No bueno. I do have a stator on order with a 30 day return policy.

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

"Well there's your problem!!!"




New stator going in 


I just have to button it up. Thanks again for the help guys!

[Langanobob]

Can anyone explain what might cause this kind of failure?  Is it a manufacturing defect that finally got bad enough to completely fail?  Or some other weak point in the electrical system that cause some sort of stator overload?

[Howie]

No, but it I am guessing a short to ground.  I would be curious to see what the stator wires look like where they bolt to the cover.

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

A few years back I had a problem on a trip where the bike got really hot at the end of riding one day, >300 degrees which was not normal at all. Soon after that the clearances on my exhaust valves went to zero which gave me running problems obviously. I got everything fixed and got the bike running well again but always had a vibrations at high RPM's after that. It's possible my stator problem started then. I cant be sure but I think it caused high rpm fueling problems, just my theory, I could be completely wrong.

Lately the bike has started backfiring and crapping out a little, the beginning of the end.

I ran the bike today and took it around the block quickly. The throttle response is much better and the bike runs much smoother. I am going out for a ride afternoon and will post back up.

In the meantime here are some pics that may help Howie see what he was asking for. FYI the wires between the stator up to the connector were clean and the part that was most fried was pointing forward.

[2 Wheel Wanderer]

Vibration still there, oh well.

WOW!! My throttle response is back! The bike is a 1000 times smoother!!! It hasn't felt this good in years!

Edit: I just got home, 95 miles of twisty fun!!

Some observations with the old stator.

1. Bike lacking power especially at the top of the RPM range
2. Engine running lean for the last month or so, lots of popping
3. Engine has been really grabby/choppy and almost rough running
4. on/off throttle really bad
5. Towards the end the engine would cut out at times - from a stop usually
6. Bike started to idle badly
7. Recently the temperature would fluctuate between normal and 20-25 degrees higher then normal.

New stator, all of that bullshit gone!! The bike runs how it used to.

I said it before but I'll say it again, thanks for the help!

[brad black]

i've had a few 2002 onward 2v monsters that have had quite large voltage drops between battery and the injector/coil/fuel pump circuit.  like 2v.  combine that with a bad charge voltage and it can be a real issue.  i've been trying to find a neat way to jump into the injector/coil/fuel pump relay trigger, but it's been a cut and join.  i have to do one tomorrow so i'm going to remove the relay and plug a wire into the base for the trigger and mount another relay switching battery power to the horizontal coil (seems to affect the horizontal coil the most) and into the injector/coil/fuel pump power wire at the relay base.  no matter how hard i try, i can't get the terminals out of the relay mount block.

might run an extra earth to the front coil too, just to make sure of that.

also they can get a decent voltage drop between regulator and battery.  i make a little external loom using the original 4 pin connector at the reg  (2 red, 2 black) and run it back through the maxi fuse (new terminals, pull the originals out and heatshrink the still powered one) to the battery.  you end up with a few extra ring terminals at the battery, but you can pick up 0.5 to 1V in charge voltage at the battery.

the bike i have to do tomorrow is a pretty rough 2002 m900ie, and i'm deep into the "it was ok until you touched it" syndrome after servicing it last week.