09 1100 full exhaust ecu

[KogMo11s]

Well, got it back from Moto Wheels, put it back together and it runs very well ...above 3500!  Have to finesse the throttle down at lower rpm's but no problem there -just takes some getting used to.  I'm sure the PCV will sort that out.

Super stoked with the way it runs and sounds.  ...lol After I got it all back together to take 'er out for the first time, I went to fill it up with gas. With a big grin, I filled it to below the gas cap flange/neck (?) gave it a back and forth motion to see just how much room I had and promptly spewed gas all over the tank farings ..key area, some dripped on the frame...  I cursed myself as the gas guy just kinda grinned and offered me more towells- wiped it off went home and thoroughly cleaned it. ...I'm such a dork sometimes! haha all is good tho. Really luving the Duc rumble.

[danaid]

Did moto wheels tell you which map they were using? A custom made one? The bottom end power should not be missing, I would send it back and ask if there are other maps available!

I had my 1198 ecm flashed here, http://houstonsuperbikes.com/p-7857-services.html

When I ordered my exhaust from them, I explained to them I'm in California and powercommander/dyno tune, like on my monster, was no longer an option. They said I had a choice of a custom map they made for the 1198 for racing, or the unaltered map from the Termignoni factory. I chose the untouched by Ducati Termignoni map which is a fully developed for the 1198, unaltered by emissions.

[KogMo11s]

The herky jerky'ness at or below 3k RPM is about the same as a 2012 Diavel with full exhaust I test rode at the local Duc dealership a while back. It's like riding an untamed bull. Which I kinda like. The bottom end power is still there when you twist the throttle -which smooths the herky jerk and pulls as it should while singing an Italian love song to boot. 

It does smell like it's running rich tho, which has me wondering if I should just dyno it to dial in the AF mix.  I didn't ask about the map specifics but when I gave him details about what I had, he quickly said he had a map for my setup.  I'll call to get specifics and talk to him about the rich fuel smell. (but I will still want to dyno it to dial it in).

Still getting used to the bike too. Taking off from a dead stop can sometimes be a bit rough. It def needs a bit more throttle as compared to the Zed.

Bottom line, I luv this bike. Sweet ride that has it's own personality.

Also, I have found that cranking it over just after the fuel pump stops, works best in the mornings. Otherwise if I wait for the text message to complete it will fire once then die. Then act like it's flooded.  ? dunno man, maybe personality, maybe something else. (AF mix) ?  

Curious... what does your text message say?  Mine is M1100 EVO DE  Pretty sure the 09 is not an EVO and I don't know what the DE stands for.

[danaid]

Mine has the evo also, De is probably the language. I had to set language back to U.S

[KogMo11s]

yeah me too. MW had the fix on their website.

Went out today to start it for the first time (today) - right after fuel pump stopped, I cranked her over and she fired right up.  Hopefully this will work every time.

also,  one of the cans is slightly leaking from the (rear) connection to the mid pipe. That could possibly be the rich exhaust smell?  Not sure. Will try to fix that tomorrow.

[danaid]

Nope, probably fuel added from the new map

[KogMo11s]

yup, I agree.  Spent the weekend riding with a guy who is running aftermarket exhaust on his Diavel. I smelled the same richness as I do with mine so I'm not too worried about that right now. And, the bike ran awesome all weekend. ~300miles or so.

BUT I did notice another issue... the clutch reservoir had about a 1/4 to a third amount left in it at the end of the weekend. I noticed a small leak from the seal on the bottom of the bike (left hand side). I guess that's the alternator cover? Anyway each time I stopped, I saw a drop of oil on the ground dripping from what looked to originate from the seal/gasket. But where is the clutch fluid going?

After looking at the repair manual, I see the tube from the clutch going to the clutch slave cylinder unit. I'm assuming that one is bad and is leaking but I see no weeping on or around the unit. Can the unit leak into the engine oil via the push rod? Not sure how that all works but in the manual I see two O rings on the push rod and if those go bad could that cause the leak?

Also, occasionally I notice a sound coming from the same side when I let the clutch out as the clutch engages. Almost like a slipping before gripping noise. -if that makes any sense. I'm assuming it's the Dot4 leak causing the noise.

Any help would be appreciated.

[danaid]

 Check if the bleeder valve on the slave is closed tight. It is good habit to bleed the master and slave at least once a year, or more to cure the miss shifts and hard to find neutral. If your clutch is slipping you certainly have a leak somewhere, probably the slave piston seal.

The slave cylinder seems to be hit or miss with certain models. I have had no issues with mine. Many riders quickly change out the slave with an Oberon brand slave which is arguably the best. It gives the clutch an easier pull and has a more durable design. If the clutch disks are wet with fluid, you can replace the slave seals (budget) or get a new one, some new slaves come with the new o-rinds for the push rod. Be sure to remove the clutch plates and clean them so they won't burn.

I only had any issue with the clutch reservoir cap leaking from simply removing it for the first time to add fluid, it leaked from than on. Perfect excuse to add new rizoma fluid reservoirs! 

[Howie]

The only way clutch fluid volume goes down is a leak.  What you are seeing is probably fluid coming out behind the cylinder through the weep hole in back if the slave.  Remove the slave and take a look.Since I can't hear the noise I can't comment.

[KogMo11s]

Tnx howie. Didn't know about the weep hole. I'll remove and check it out as soon as work lightens up a bit. I imagine the sound will go away when I replace the slave. Was thinking of replacing with an Oberon. Thoughts?

I'm going to pull the push rod out and have a look at the seals too. It looks like it just pulls out without anything tricky. Have you seen or done this before?

Can the clutch fluid get into the case? Should I change the oil?

a lot of questions... I know, sorry!

[KogMo11s]

Ok so I replaced the Slave cylinder with an Oberon unit since the oem unit was leaking from the weep hole as mentioned by howie-  tnx man  

I didn't pull the clutch pushrod because I chickened out was unsure if it just pulls out without any other parts dropping from within. I would guess that if the o-rings leak then I will see fluid coming for the pressure plate side. (?)

__

Clutch pull is a bit easier for sure. Still get the gripping sound every once in a while but I will blame that on the operator until I can prove otherwise.

pic from today

[KogMo11s]

The Oberon works great. Last time I went out I didn't have that clutch grab noise.  Sweet ride with intoxicating sound.  

I'll probably change out the positive and negative battery cables for easier starts.  Still trying to figure out what works best for cold and warm starts. ie let the "Monster 1100 evo" completely display then try to start or just let the fuel pump finish then push start.