Let me just say a little bit about the “rear ride height” and the adjuster you have there. (Whether it is stock or aftermarket item, it doesn’t matter. The logic applies the same way.)
The primary purpose of the adjuster is
to alter the swingarm droop angle.
It is
NOT the seat height adjuster.
So, what’s going to happen as you increase or decrease the swingarm droop angle?
Example 1 ) reducing the swingarm droop angle (This is what you say you are going to try.)
1)If you go too far, your swingarm would not have “enough” droop angle, what it means is
“not enough anti-squat effect = too much weight transfer”
2)as a result, front forks tend to top out, thus, front end feels unstable, flighty at exiting corner (especially on rough pavement)
3)In general, the bike tends to run wide under power when coming out the corner (understeer)
Example 2)increasing the swingarm droop angle (the opposite direction of what you are going to do.)
1)too steep swingarm droop angle = too much anti-squat effect = not enough weight transfer
2)as a result, poor traction under power.
3)more importantly, it makes the bike more prone to sideway slide (rear wheel stepping outside. Combined with too much rebound damping in the rear shock, it is almost guaranteed to cause lowside.)
It is important to have *right* ride height(swingarm droop angle) as Monster's cornering is more "rear wheel (rear tire traction) dependent.
So, I strongly caution about touching this adjuster.
I am not questioning your intelligence, or riding experience / skill.
Just trying to point out, that adjuster link is the last place you want to play with, as you can actually create the set up(especially with the fully adjustable rear shock you have now) that would cause lowside easily, or the the set up that would cause the understeer.
The last thing you want (for the street bike) is the suspension set up that induce lowside easily.
The (close) second worst is the suspension set up that causes the bike to run wide.
Whether you can put your feet down completely flat or only able to tip toe, it is a matter of
1) seat height vs rider's inseam length
2) rear shock spring rate and / or preload vs rider's weight
3) seat shape vs rider's leg / body shape
You didn’t state your inseam, your height and body type.
So, let my use myself as an example.
I’m only 5’5”, 125 lb.. with street clothes on. (So, I’m about 135 lb.. with full gear, I guess.)
I am at the extreme end of the spectrum, and nothing out of the box would work for my weight.
So, I have Ohlins DU333 (sprung and valved for my weight) and front end worked (with Ohlins valve kit, using stock springs).
Take a look at the picture below.
This is where my butt is, when riding at slow speed, like going through the city traffic, etc.
If you look closely, you can see my left foot heel is about an inch off the ground.
Consider that
1)I’m wearing Dickie’s and Marrel, NOT my riding gear
2)I have my right foot on the peg.
When I’m actually riding, I wear Aerostich R-3 and Daytona Security Evo3 boots. I can never put the foot down flat.
Let alone putting both feet down flat. It just ain’t gonna happen with the body I have.
Then, look at this photo.
This is where my butt is, when riding through the corners on the back road, or I”m on the freeway.
Notice the butt is moved backward?
I am sitting on even higher spot now, but I would never put down my foot with this riding position. I always move forward on the seat as I slow down before coming to the complete stop.
So, just wanted to warn you.
If you play wrong, you can make your S4R as an absolute dog to go round the corners.
(The bike that is tank slapper prone, unstable front end under power, doesn’t change direction from mid-corner to exit, etc.)
