Ohlins DU333

[Derekv]

New DU333 rear shock arrives tomorrow.  Still snowing here, so won’t be able to ride.  Plus out of the country for a few weeks.  I’ll get installed Saturday, if I can get the bike from the storage unit to the garage.....

Any advice on setting it up?

2005 S4R.  Just rebuilt the forks with new seals and oil.  All fork settings are at factory settings. 

Derek V

[ducpainter]

Did you order it sprung for your weight?

[Derekv]

I wasn’t given any spring options.

Derek V

[ducpainter]

You might want to ask Speeddog.

How much do you weigh wearing your gear?

[Derekv]

165lbs + gear (~17lbs), 182 lbs.

Derek V

[ducpainter]

All I can say, is if the DU333 is sprung like the DU044 then it's a little light for your weight.

Ask Speeddog. He has the numbers.

That said, if you're happy with the stock front then you might be really happy with the Ohlins as delivered.

[Derekv]

Thank you.  I’m hoping that it works better than the stock Showa.  It isn’t like I am good enough to get 100% out of the stock suspension anyway.

Derek V

[Derekv]

Got it installed.  Definitely changed the handling.  Quicker.  Only had time for a very short ride.

For ride height, should I adjust the spring preload first or the adjustable link?  I would think the link first because changing the preload will also change the handling, yes?

Derek V

[ducpainter]

Everything you do to a suspension will change the handling.

Set the preload/sag first. That's a basic setting, and IMO doesn't need to be fiddled with once set. Ride height is more preference.

If you get the rear too high, not only will the handling be extremely quick, but you'll discover any weakness in the front suspension as it will be loaded much more heavily.

[Speeddog]

A spring ~9.5-10 would be a good place to start.

Your spring should be marked, something like 1091-31/95 XYZ4.
What is your spring?

Unless you know *for sure* that your link adjustment is free to move, assume it's seized.
Either leave it alone, or remove it and fix it.

OEM fork springs for the S4R were pretty good for your weight.

Both ends will likely be fine on relatively smooth pavement.
They'll be harsh on sharp-edged bumps.
If you want to improve compliance, both front and rear will need to be revalved.

Lots of folks are good enough beer drinkers (whatever that is) to appreciate good beer.
Same goes for suspension.

[ducpainter]

Seized link on a new shock?

[Speeddog]

Seized link on a new shock?

No, the OEM pushrod.
AFAIK, all of them were assembled dry at the factory.

[ducpainter]

Ahhh. I forget about that on the S*R bikes.

[stopintime]

No, the OEM pushrod.
AFAIK, all of them were assembled dry at the factory.

+1 

You should have seen my mechanics' knuckles when he adjusted mine. And his face when I asked him to turn it back to stock adjustment 

[Derekv]

Thank you everyone for the help.

-Set pre load first.
-The spring is labeled; 01092-31/95- L1910
-My link adjustment connecting rod is an aftermarket part, it is free to adjust.  I have adjusted since installing it. I am planning to lengthen it 2 flats to take it up to where I can just flat foot the bike.
-Sounds like I’ll be loosening the front and rear settings. I either take it on local, flat and straight runs or up into the mountains and canyons of Colorado that it seems like it was made for. 

Derek V