696 replace front sprocket

[OstOgBajer]

i know it is too late, but it would have been much easier to pull the rearset off.  three bolts and the shift linkage... assuming it is mounted similar to the S*Rs

I was thinking that but I wasn't sure if the big bolt that goes through the rearsets, frame and engine would be easy to remove or not. But yeah... too late for that.

[JetTest]

I think you created a problem you did not need by breaking the chain. If you move the rear wheel as far forward as it will go, drop the chain off the rear sprocket, remove the clutch slave, you can change the front sprocket without breaking the chain. I just did it myself last week. took about 20 minutes total. It is a little tight coming off and going on, but will, no problem. Also installed a case guard, but it looks like that would not fit with the 15t countershaft sprocket.

[OstOgBajer]

I think you created a problem you did not need by breaking the chain. If you move the rear wheel as far forward as it will go, drop the chain off the rear sprocket, remove the clutch slave, you can change the front sprocket without breaking the chain. I just did it myself last week. took about 20 minutes total. It is a little tight coming off and going on, but will, no problem. Also installed a case guard, but it looks like that would not fit with the 15t countershaft sprocket.

On a 696? I did the same thing, moved the wheel all the way up and slid the clutch cylinder out. Not enough room to remove the chain due to the rearset. I didn't want to mess with the rearset because I'm not sure how that giant bolt holds the rearsets, engine and swingarm. It may have been possible, but messing with the chain has given me some experience now. Even though I made mistakes, I learned more this way than if the chain had come off no problem.

I did end up buying a new chain though, just to stay on the side of caution. Got the RK 520 XSO.

Thanks for the help everyone. I'm off for a test ride with my new sprocket and chain.

[JetTest]

Chain and front sprocket clear without any disassembly of the rearsets. Just the clutch slave, sprocket cover and rear wheel adjusters. You just have to split the slack in the chain between the top and the bottom, push it all forward and the sprocket will just have enough room to slide off the countershaft.

[OstOgBajer]

Chain and front sprocket clear without any disassembly of the rearsets. Just the clutch slave, sprocket cover and rear wheel adjusters. You just have to split the slack in the chain between the top and the bottom, push it all forward and the sprocket will just have enough room to slide off the countershaft.

I'm not saying you're wrong... I'm just saying I did exactly that and the rearsets were keeping the chain from letting the sprocket slide off. If I get bored I'll try it again someday just to see if I can get the sprocket off without removing the rearsets.

Oh, and I thought this was interesting too... when I ordered the sprocket from the dealer, I asked how much it would cost for them to install it. The salesman goes to the shop area and asks the mechanic how long it would take (not in front of me but I was barely within earshot) and the mechanic said he would have to break the chain. I don't know if he really HAD to, or if he was inexperienced with the 696, or maybe he was trying to extend the time required to get another hour of labor out of my checkbook (although he has gone out of his way to help me out before so I don't think that's the case).

Anyway, it's all done, everything is done, bike runs great now. The 14t is a HUGE improvement over stock. More torque down low, smoother off the line requiring less clutch, and always seems to be in the right gear. With the stock 15t, I always felt like I should be in-between 2nd and 3rd gear or between 5th and 6th gear. Highway riding is even improved because 6th gear is so much more usable.

[Smokescreen]

Ost- glad you got it all together and back out on the road!!!  Ride a lot!!  And when you wear it out, just a thought...  You might want to go back to the larger countershaft sprok, and go to a larger rear sprok.  Smaller countershaft sproks tend to kill chains sooner.  Although, I think I too have a smaller CS Sprok...  hahhaaa

[IdZer0]

What I don't understand is why you (or rather people in general) want a 14T on  a 696. You've already got 3 teeth more in the back compared to the 695.

[OstOgBajer]

What I don't understand is why you (or rather people in general) want a 14T on  a 696. You've already got 3 teeth more in the back compared to the 695.

If you rode a 696 you'd understand.

[Smokescreen]

What I don't understand is why you (or rather people in general) want a 14T on  a 696. You've already got 3 teeth more in the back compared to the 695.

The comparison might not be a reasonable one.  The 696 has a tranny geared m ore similarly to the S2R (maybe for emissions testing?) which is geared much taller than the 695.  Sprockets aren't the only variable deciding RPMs at a given speed.  The transmission has just as large an effect, though it's less of a variable, since it's pretty well not adjustable...

Still, for chain life and such, it's better to run to a larger alloy rear cog, than a smaller front one.  The smaller front cog, and the chain both take more of a beating and wear out faster.  The larger rear cog inversely take's less abuse because it requires less rotation of links, and wears better as does the chain. 

Not helpful advise when you've already bought what you've bought, but this should be noted in future chain replacements

[JetTest]

Yes, in general you get better chain wear by going up on the rear, but I have found the additional wear from only 1 tooth down on the countershaft to be pretty insignificant.