S4R won't start (not cold out)

[va122]

Hi,

My S4R will not start. The headlight is bright, the fast idle is on, tach sweeps but when I push the starter I'll hear the starter cycle once or twice (max) and the bike won't turn over. The starter stops cycling after only once or twice which is weird. I tried jumping it, with no luck, same issue. I push started the bike and it started no problem, runs great. It will re-start once warm.

What do you think?

[Duckintime]

Could be a number of things, including clutch lever switch, starter push button, or solenoid. Do you have a volt meter?  Disconnect the clutch switch.. follow the wiring from the lever, and youll see a plug. Jump the two terminals together and then try to start it. At least that cancels out a bad switch. Check your battery connections for tightness, also follow the cables from the battery to where they connect. Make sure they are tight

[DucHead]

The fact that it turns over eliminates the clutch safety switch, and perhaps the battery as well.

Sounds like a bad connection from the battery to the starter (jumping did not work), or a bad ground.  Check the ground wire that runs from the battery negative to the engine case.  If this is loose/corroded the bike will not start.   This happened to me.

[Howie]

Don't rule out the battery yet.  It takes a lot less amperage to light the headlamp than it does to operate the starter motor.  The fact that a jump doesn't help does pretty much eliminate the battery though.  It is still a good idea to fully charge and load test the battery just to rule that out though.  More likely is a bad connection or ground, particularly the engine ground.  The best way to find a bad connection is by voltage drop.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

If you need to clean the connection at the starter, BE CAREFUL.  The lug on the starter is very delicate.

[va122]

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the prompt response! I've already checked all the wires to see if one was loose and everything looks good

Well, I put the bike on a battery charger overnight and tried to start it today and it did indeed start AND the starter motor cycled like 5 times before the bike turned over. Before it would cycle only once and die.

I guess we're back to the battery issue. Right?

[DucHead]

Still seems odd that you couldn't jump it.

[va122]

I know, right?

Well when I jumped it I used the frame as a ground could it be the powdercoating isn't conductive?

[Popeye the Sailor]

I know, right?

Well when I jumped it I used the frame as a ground could it be the powdercoating isn't conductive?

Yeah, I know, we're not supposed to, but just go pos to pos and neg to neg. It works better.

[WetDuc]

Yeah, I know, we're not supposed to, but just go pos to pos and neg to neg. It works better.

Yup, I do it, too.  Works everytime.

[va122]

Cool, now how do I know If I need a new battery?

[Howie]

Fully charge the battery and get it over to a shop with equipment to load test it.  A less accurate shade tree method would be to place a volt meter across the battery, disable ignition and crank engine.  Voltage should stay over 9.6 volts.  If the battery is over four years old you might consider replacing it anyway, particularly on a fuel injected bike.

[va122]

mine's 5 years old, I'll replace it.