Tools for valve adjustment

lazylightnin717 · April 03, 2012, 01:11:21 AM

Seems both closers are dragging on the exhaust and one on the intake

Armor · April 03, 2012, 11:14:42 AM

I would do one at a time and make sure the half rings are seated properly. Uninstall and reinstall the shim and check again.

Speeddog · April 03, 2012, 11:28:19 AM

Quote from: Armor on April 03, 2012, 11:14:42 AM
I would do one at a time and make sure the half rings are seated properly. Uninstall and reinstall the shim and check again.

The 4V closer shims are a bit finicky about seating the half rings, sometimes they'll trap 'em.

I've found that if I push the closer rocker down just enough to take the load off the shim, and the valve is backed up against the piston, probing at the half rings will push them down into position.

Just to make sure I'm understanding correctly....

You changed shims, and measured .003 on closers, they didn't drag, then went back later and they're dragging?

Or you checked clearance, measured the shim, installed a 'new' shim to change the clearance, and then it's dragging?

lazylightnin717 · April 03, 2012, 01:36:59 PM

I checked the shims. Replaced rockers. Checked shims again. Got new shims and installed and checked shims again.

Going back to basics...

I'm using the loaded/unloaded method. Measure the unloaded gap between the opening shim/rocker. Pushing down on the closing rocker and checking the same measurement again. Subtracting the unloaded from loaded and getting my closer gap. Is that correct? Does being at TDC matter. Where should the cams be when I'm checking?

lazylightnin717 · April 10, 2012, 06:34:05 PM

UPDATE

Seems I got the wrong base gasket although it wasn't too terribly different. I had to dremel a small area to clear a post on the case. I took a fine file to it and smooth everything out, put the cylinder/head back on and it's hopefully good to go... valve clearances were in spec

Either way, it feels good to have the gaskets replaced and everything bolted back up without too much hassle.

Although there is still some work to be done with the H cylinder. My measurements must have been off.

Speeddog · April 10, 2012, 08:20:21 PM

Quote from: lazyjinglin717 on April 03, 2012, 01:36:59 PM
~~~SNIP~~~
Does being at TDC matter. Where should the cams be when I'm checking?

I put the piston at TDC, so I know the valves won't drop in.
I do all my valve work with the belts off.
I put the cams on the base circle.

lazylightnin717 · April 11, 2012, 03:33:24 PM

lazylightnin717 · May 03, 2012, 05:33:53 PM

Who can tell me what this is

I just noticed it tonight. Just kinda hangin' out on the left side of the bike. I don't remember disconnecting it but I will have to look through my pictures I took of the disassembly. In the meantime.... anybody?

Speeddog · May 03, 2012, 06:07:36 PM

That's to plug in your battery tender.

lazylightnin717 · May 08, 2012, 06:37:50 PM

Ok guys. One thing after another but it's finally looking like a bike again. At this point all I need to do is get the belts on, fuel tank and run fuel lines, change oil and coolant, and a few other little things.

But....

I tried with all my might to get a belt on and couldn't swing it. What's the trick here? Or what am I missing? Obviously I started with the vertical cylinder. Lined up the marks on the cams and wrapped the belt around the idler and crankshaft but didn't have enough slack to get it around the tensioner pulley. I tried taking as much slack out of the idler side to create a little more slack on the tensioner side and couldn't get it. I tried lining everything up and pulling out my cam holder tool to create more slack but it just jumped some teeth and didn't work.

Is there a trick to this? Should I really try to get some leverage on it somehow? It's close but damn it's hard to get on there. Is this a 'quattro thing or are they all like that?

I'm using the Exactfit timing belts by the way

Speeddog · May 09, 2012, 09:07:14 AM

Put the belt over the layshaft (drive) pulley, making sure it's teeth are engaged.

Feed it between the stationary and movable tensioner pulleys.

Put it about 3/8" onto the exhaust pulley.

Make sure the belt is still totally engaged on the drive pulley, and is not riding up on the flanges of the tensioner pulleys.

Turn the intake pulley until it's lined up, this is a bit of a chore as the closer springs are fighting you.

Slide the belt over the intake pulley.

Check to make sure both pulleys are still lined up with their marks.

lazylightnin717 · June 04, 2012, 06:23:50 PM

Why are the exhaust nuts such a soft metal? Almost seems like copper or something. Needless to say I had to butcher one pretty bad to remove the rear downpipe again and need new ones. What should I be looking for?

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Tools for valve adjustment