Fuel Pump Issues... Another dead horse to beat.

[corey]

I used the putty.  Just worked it in there until it was solid.

Another thing to note is the lock washers holding the plastic shroud on the fuel pump assembly.  They're easy to break but try to save them if you can.  I couldn't find replacements that weren't zinc, which can't go into fuel.

No special solder for me.  Just electrical. 

One more note: while you do want to heat the socket up enough to bond with the solder, don't overdo it or the solder on the other side might melt.

Thanks for all the advice â€" I'll let you know how it goes.
This is all hitting at a bad time â€" the folks I rent my garage from have sold their home, and I need to be out by June 15... And I'm leaving next Friday for France/Germany until June 1... Ugh.

[cbcanada]

This happened to me last summer. You can either get the unit replaced or fix it. The electric wire connection is gone.

If you want to fix

-Empty tank
-Take out fuel pump
-Take out the hard putty that holds wires coming in from outside to inside.
-Resolder them all while you are there.
-Use marine jb weld to repack

[corey]

Is there any safe way to test whether the pump is working without reinstalling everything onto the bike and fueling? I'd have to have to remove twice if it's not working after I "fix" everything...

[corey]

It lives.
I replaced the pump and filter, and checked the wiring â€" it seemed fine. I slapped everything back together, but no joy. Upon a second disassembling, I started digging out the epoxy in the wiring bung, and the positive lead just fell right out â€" definitely the culprit.

Running strong again, with no issues.

Thanks for the help as always DMF!

[skurvy]

So after 2 days of looking at all the fuel pump fix threads, this one seems to be the most current. Everything described is exactly what I'm experiencing and I'm about to remove the flange to inspect it. I have an '06 S2R Dark (plastic tank) and just hit 59,000 miles.

• For those who have resoldered/re-epoxied, any other issues? Will the type of JB Weld make a difference at this point? (Original, MarineWeld, WaterWeld)
• If anyone else replaced PN# 51020032A, any issues adding a splice (with exposed solder), for the additional ground? http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=amrkq22mo2pouqog5fis749m24&topic=69062.msg1278572#msg1278572. (I'll PM the OP to ask directly but I'm not sure if anyone else chose this fix).

Like everyone here, I'd rather try to fix the problem by cheaper alternatives before I spend $1115.09 on PN# 16021351A. I'm just trying to figure out which way to approach it, dig out and fix the connection or replace with the new Fuel Pump Wire 51020032A and add the exposed splice.

Thanks!