S2R1000 running problems after fuel filter

[Dirty Duc]

Your fuel pump sounds sick. It should make a much higher pitched whine instead of that miserable buzz.

You have those hard plastic lines in the tank? I don't think they are really reusable. Sae 30R10 hose and regular hose clamps....

Those Teflon or whatever lines are the devil.

[Speeddog]

Once it's primed, it should hold pressure for quite a while.

So either the FPR has a piece of debris in it's valve, or it's come loose/seal is compromised/?? and is leaking.

Or the intake screen on the fuel pump is plugged or....

[Dirty Duc]

Fprs are susceptible to alcohol fuels, although mine failed more slowly and that was with methanol...

[Howie]

Try new hoses and clamps first.  If you suck air in you will get air out.

Clamps like this  http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/16046/10002/-1  not like this  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-1-1-4-in-Hose-Repair-Clamp-6712595/202309385;jsessionid=FAAD76C2ADC3D300C4F86D9EA60B5ED0

Much cheaper than a fuel pump.

[SwiftTone]

Your fuel pump sounds sick. It should make a much higher pitched whine instead of that miserable buzz.

You have those hard plastic lines in the tank? I don't think they are really reusable. Sae 30R10 hose and regular hose clamps....

Those Teflon or whatever lines are the devil.

Not sure what you mean about buzz. Sounds whiney to me. Maybe it's my phone microphone throwing the sound off.

How do I test the power supply? I saw 4 wires at the harness. 2 are black, one is blue/white and the other I forgot.

Once it's primed, it should hold pressure for quite a while.

So either the FPR has a piece of debris in it's valve, or it's come loose/seal is compromised/?? and is leaking.

Or the intake screen on the fuel pump is plugged or....

If the fuel pump screen is restricted, shouldn't the system still be able to hold whatever pressure it builds?

What component actually holds the pressure? Is it the FPR? Are those replaceable?

What is the  order of fuel flow through the in tank  components from input hose to the output hose?

Most of the research on FPRs are ones that are mounted externally, and have vacuum hoses. How do in tank ones differ?

[Dirty Duc]

I'll go look at my S2R flange this afternoon. I'm pretty sure they're replaceable... but probably not listed as such from Ducati. IIRC, the S2R deal is sold as a complete assembly only.

Fuel flow:
Pump
filter
out to injectors
back to FPR
into tank

The vacuum hose on the "external" FPR is to reference/adjust the fuel pressure based on engine load. I haven't seen a Ducati that does that, they seem to leave them open (this gives a very slight adjustment to pressure based on altitude)... it is usually more useful in forced induction applications.

The internal FPR cannot be referenced to vacuum... other than that, not much difference in capability or design.

[SwiftTone]

I'll go look at my S2R flange this afternoon. I'm pretty sure they're replaceable... but probably not listed as such from Ducati. IIRC, the S2R deal is sold as a complete assembly only.

Fuel flow:
Pump
filter
out to injectors
back to FPR
into tank

The vacuum hose on the "external" FPR is to reference/adjust the fuel pressure based on engine load. I haven't seen a Ducati that does that, they seem to leave them open (this gives a very slight adjustment to pressure based on altitude)... it is usually more useful in forced induction applications.

The internal FPR cannot be referenced to vacuum... other than that, not much difference in capability or design.

That's really helpful. CA Cycleworks sells FPRs individually, with 2 different styles; with or without pipe on the side of it. Can you see what is on the stock one? Here's the link to the product: http://ca-cycleworks.com/fpr35x

If the flow of fuel is as Dirty Duc says ( Pump>filter>injectors>FPR>into tank), it shouldn't matter if I have a bad FPR or not when I was testing if it was building and holding pressure at the tank output hose since the only component the fuel has traveled through its pump and filter. Shouldn't there be a check valve in the fuel pump?

going to open it up the tank (again) and really look at the components. Anyway to test the fuel pump other than if it primes or not? I've seen submerged tests but I don't feel comfortable doing it with a bucket of fuel. Can I use distilled water without damage?

[Dirty Duc]

The fpr is the thing that holds pressure in conjunction with a check valve in the pump... sorry, I was at work earlier (which has nothing to do with internal combustion) then forgot to go out to the shed and look at the part.

[ducpainter]

If you fill your pump with water you run the risk of not getting it all out and getting it in the injectors which will compound any issue you have now.

I wouldn't.

[Howie]

The check valve in the pump holds "residual pressure".  This allows the bike to restart easier after sitting.  Your fuel pressure regulator maintains pressure while the pump is operating.  Pressure can be falling off because of inconsistent volume.  You can use lamp grade kerosene as test fluid as it is less flammable, about the same viscosity as gasoline and, unlike water is soluble.

[Dirty Duc]

Two potential failure points on the FPR:

The inside membrane, or the outer o-rings that separate the pressure side from the tank


You want the CA Cycleworks one with no pipe.

[SwiftTone]

Mystery solved!

But I want to first thank everyone involved for your help. Without you guys and this community I wouldn't have know how to diagnose this. It was really a learning experience.

I pull3d the assembly back out and rigged a simple flow test with the pump and the old fuel filter and the new Ducati filter. I noticed the Ducati filter flowed less water! I can't believe it was the new Ducati fuel filter! !

Admittedly, I bought this filter off of eBay from a highly rated seller to save a few bucks. Never thought a fuel filter could be bad....

So the whole point of me replacing the fuel filter because I was having problems at high RPMS and full throttle.  Unfortunately that wasn't resolved. So I'll be back posting in my other thread....*sigh

[czen]

I replied to your question on my thread, but thought I'd post here too for everyone's benefit:

See this thread here where issues sound somewhat similar to yours: http://www.ducatimonster.org/forums/ducati-monster-s-models/318769-s4rs-took-running-like-crap-2.html

Culprit turned out to be Crank Position Sensor ... hope that helps.

Cheers!

[czen]

By the way, for the TPS, which we discussed how to test over on my thread (as a potentiometer, etc.) ... instead of fiddling with testing, if you're interested I can send you my old one. As I mentioned, I replaced mine with a new one from Ca-Cycleworks, but as it turned out the TPS was not the problem and there was probably nothing wrong with my old one. In fact, I have 2 extra TPS right now as I ordered yet another one from Aliexpress, super cheap (maybe $10 or so) but then I decided to go with the Ca-Cycleworks one because they test them on a special bench there. (I suspect what they do is that they have a supplier from China for them, but have invested in a testing machine to make sure they are good and they can guarantee them, which is why they charge $60 for an otherwise very inexpensive part.)

Anyway, as I mentioned, I can send you my old stock one - or if you prefer, I can send the new but untested Chinese one - so you test things out and see if there is an improvement.

Let me know.

Cheers!