S2R1000 running problems after fuel filter

Started by SwiftTone, June 08, 2016, 07:10:09 AM

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SwiftTone

I did a valve adjustment and took it for a ride. Everything ran fine. The next day I replaced the fuel filter as it was having an existing issue of running to redline at full throttle. It would rev up fine at full throttle up until 6500rpm then fall on its face and not be able to increase the RPM. So I replaced the fuel filter. There was an aftermarket filter in there. The little wire (grounding?) was attached to the metal body of the filter with a hose clam since that filter didn't have a little tab for it. I put in the new OEM filter and attached the little wire snugly with stainless safety wire to where it belongs. What is this little wire for?

I put everything back together and it wouldn't start. It would just crank and crank. Occasionally it would fire up for 1 revolution, but then go back to cranking. I primed the fuel pump a few times and same thing. I pulled the spark plugs and it was a little damp. I dried it off and reinstalled. Same thing. I detached the outlet hose of the fuel pump flange, turned on ignition and confirmed fuel does in fact flow.

Next day I took the fuel pump assembly back out, confirmed everything was still in place. Also removed the hoses that attach to the fuel filter, blew through it and confirmed that it was not clogged and that it was installed in the right direction. Put the assembly back in and unplugged the wiring for it. I pulled the spark plugs again, and with the plug wire still attached, grounded it to the exhaust pipe and crank it and I could see visible blue sparks as it fired. I used the engine turning tool and set horizontal cylinder at TDC from the flywheel side, then confirmed that the timing marks were aligned at the pulley side. Put everything back together and attempted to start again. This time the engine seemed to be able to fire up for a few more revs then die. I was able to keep the engine running by adding a little input at the throttle. When it did run it ran really rough and didn't sound good. If I gave it more throttle than say 15%, it would die out. Also, if I give it too much throttle as it cranks, it would make a loud pop and puff
I'm stomped at what the issue could be. What should I test next? I have read that it could be a TPS. I have a multimeter. How do I test the TPS?<br />

To sum it up:
•Has fuel
•Has spark
•Has compression
•Good timing

Whats next?

Dirty Duc


Howie

Are you sure all of your lines have good integrity?   If a line is sucking air you will have a problem.  Prime the pump by turning the key on and off and look for fuel rushing around in the tank.  The ground wire is to protect the bike from going KABBOM on a fill up (static electricity).

SwiftTone

#3
Quote from: howie on June 08, 2016, 02:57:52 PM
Are you sure all of your lines have good integrity?   If a line is sucking air you will have a problem.  Prime the pump by turning the key on and off and look for fuel rushing around in the tank.  The ground wire is to protect the bike from going KABBOM on a fill up (static electricity).

Are you talking about the in and out lines that are connected to the base of the fuel pump assembly under neath the gas tank? Where would I see the fuel "rushing around the tank"?

Just checked the TPS. The signal wire on the connector was slightly frayed exposing some wire underneath. I taped it up (for now) and still no start. Then tested the volt range on the TPS itself from closed throttle to open throttle. The readings were 0.39V to 4.20V with gradual increases in voltage readings as I rolled on the throttle.

This sucks. I'm temped now to open up the fuel tank (again) and throw in the old fuel filter to see what happens. Am I going crazy?

Howie

#4
I'm referring to the hoses in the tank.  "Fuel Rushing around in the tank" is the best, though poor wording I could think of at the moment.  You should not see a lot of turbulence.  Might be a good idea to observe on a known good injected Duc and compare to yours.  What I suspect is either bad hoses or a loose clamp at the filter.  This is diagnostics over the internet, so...

Oh, if you need hose you need alcohol resistant, submersible  SAE 30R10 hose.

SwiftTone

I will be testing the fuel pressure. What is spec for pressure at the fuel rail?

When I disconnected the output hose and turned on the pump, it only emptied about 2oz into my bottle. Seems kinda low...is this normal?

When I replaced the fuel filter I actually removed the whole tank and worked on it with tank upside down could this have some issue? Where is the vent for the tank?

ducpainter

I don't think you have all the air purged.
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 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
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Dirty Duc

Quote from: SwiftTone on June 09, 2016, 09:58:20 AM
I will be testing the fuel pressure. What is spec for pressure at the fuel rail?

When I disconnected the output hose and turned on the pump, it only emptied about 2oz into my bottle. Seems kinda low...is this normal?

When I replaced the fuel filter I actually removed the whole tank and worked on it with tank upside down could this have some issue? Where is the vent for the tank?
The spec should be for pressure at the return line, and should be mid-40s. The fuel pressure regulator resides inside the tank on the flange. If the return line is blocked, the pump will overpressurize the fuel line and vent through the relief hole in the top of the pump. Not at all obvious on a stock S2R tank.

Also it will be too rich to run properly.

SwiftTone

Quote from: ducpainter on June 09, 2016, 10:05:32 AM
I don't think you have all the air purged.
Purge it by priming the pump multiple times? I'll try it again.
Quote from: Dirty Duc on June 09, 2016, 10:32:31 AM
The spec should be for pressure at the return line, and should be mid-40s. The fuel pressure regulator resides inside the tank on the flange. If the return line is blocked, the pump will overpressurize the fuel line and vent through the relief hole in the top of the pump. Not at all obvious on a stock S2R tank.

Also it will be too rich to run properly.
Do you know which injector the fuel output hose feeds fuel to first?

ducpainter

"Once you accept that a child on the autistic spectrum experiences the world in
 a completely different way than you, you will be open to understand how that
 perspective
    is even more amazing than yours."
    To realize the value of nine  months:
    Ask a mother who gave birth to a stillborn.
"Don't piss off old people The older we get, the less 'Life in Prison' is a deterrent."



Speeddog

Yes, prime it again.
You should be able to hear the pump tone change as it picks up the fuel, and hear gurgling as the air purges out of the system.

S2R, it doesn't matter which hose goes to which fitting.
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~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~

Dirty Duc

Quote from: SwiftTone on June 09, 2016, 11:15:37 AM
Do you know which injector the fuel output hose feeds fuel to first?
Not off the top of my head, and I don't have a stock setup anymore to look at. I don't remember whether I matched the ST outputs to the "correct" fuel hoses.

Like Speeddog says, it doesn't matter.

On the bikes with external pressure regulators it matters, but not on the ones with the pressure regulator in the tank.




SwiftTone

So basically I can actually put the fuel pressure tester between the fuel input/return hose and the input/return connection on the gas tank flange?

Speeddog

You can 'tee' in anywhere along the fuel lines outside of the tank.
- - - - - Valley Desmo Service - - - - -
Reseda, CA

(951) 640-8908


~~~ "We've rearranged the deck chairs, refilled the champagne glasses, and the band sounds great. This is fine." - Alberto Puig ~~~

SwiftTone

Okay so...little progress.

I primed the pump 30 times and I wasn't able to get it running. Then I sprayed intake manifold cleaner into the throttle bodies and it actually ran! As long as I kept feeding it through the throttle bodies it ran and actually got it up to 140 degrees F. So it def isn't a spark issue.

Next I disconnected the return hose and see what the fuel flow was like. Primed and let whatever comes out go into a container. Seems like very little fuel flow. 1-2oz per prime. I've attached a video below. Next I connected the fuel pressure tester between the return hose and input nipple on the flange. prime it a bunch of times until it got pressure. It was only able to build pressure to 5psi and once it stopped priming it would drop down to 0psi. To eliminate the possibility of leakage outside the fuel tank, I then connected the fuel pressure tester at the output nipple on the flange, only this time I plugged the end of the hose with my finger. Same results. 5psi when priming and quicking dropping off. I've attached video of this as well.

So this leads me to believe that it's something inside the actual gas tank that is faulty. I've already checked twice and made sure the hose clamps are tight. The hoses in there are the plastic type so it doens't need replacement unless its cracked. If it's a faulty fuel pressure regulator, the pressure would be too high right? So does this mean that it's the fuel pump itself?

I feel like I'm getting close! Thanks all!

Fuel pressure video:
Fuel flow video: