Replacing the rear brake pedal

[Paegelow]

Hey guys,

I bent my brake pedal pretty good when I crashed a while ago on my 695, and I finally have time to fix it.  I'm going to try and bend it back, but if it breaks I have a spare pedal.

Anyway, is there anything special I should look out for when I replace the pedal?  Can you take it off without removing the big footpeg bracket?

Thanks!

[Popeye the Sailor]

Some more experienced folk can chime in, but if you adjust it incorrectly, it can block off the return for the brake fluid to the master cylinder. This will lead to your brakes locking up while riding.

I don't know what that leads to next, but it's never fun. 

[Howie]

If you do not touch the adjustment on the pushrod you should be fine, but you need about 2mm free play.

[uclabiker06]

I think it would be easier to just take off the whole rear set.  Its not a big deal.  You just gotta loosen and remove the three mounting bolts for the rear set and the two mounting bolts for the rear master.  Then disconnect the brake light sensor and it will come right off.  You can slide the push rod right out of the master and just leave it like that until you put everything back together.  (Thats how it works on the S2R)

[Howie]

Oh, forgot about the part about the bracket.  You may be able to do it with the bracket in place, but removing it will make life much easier.

[Paegelow]

Alright I got the lever replaced today.  It wasn't too bad.  Taking the footpeg bracket off definitely helped though!

I don't think I would have ever got the spring back on without removing the whole bracket and taking it to the workbench.

Just to be sure, if I adjusted the lever down, that would make it tighter on the master cylinder, and could cause the brake to lock, right?  I adjusted it up just a bit to make sure I had some free play.

Also, I realized when I removed it, that my rear brake light switch totally doesn't work.  The little button is seized in it's housing, and I couldn't get it out!  I can't believe I didn't notice it not working before...
Maybe I can get a new switch on warranty or something.

[Howie]

You need about 1.5mm play.

[teddy037.2]

for the switch, you could always swap it out for one of those snazzy pressure switches that fit into the banjo at the MC, or find someone who's parting out a bike and take their OE one.

free play for the plunger is muy importante!  I thought I had enough clearance when I set up my rearsets...

the sudden loss of braking pressure, and subsequent fire that it caused, which melted my speedo sensor, glazed/seized the caliper and make the beast with two backsed the rotor all kinds of ways taught me otherwise.

DOT 4 makes a pretty green flame.

[faolan01]

I know this is an old thread, but I have an addendum question for it...

do you need to drain the rear brake fluid to replace the rear brake pedal? I had a minor low side this weekend, and if I can replace the brake pedal without having to go through the PITA of draining and refilling the brake fluid that would be great.

[teddy037.2]

nope. it's like changing a clutch or front brake lever... it's outside of the hyd system

just make sure there's enough slack between the plunger and the MC and you're shiny

[faolan01]

yay! looks like I'll be able to get my Eve back on the road in no time then!