DP Carbon Fuel Tank... issues?

[Episteme]

Thanks Nate

And yes, the bung for the cap is also needed (figures).

[ducpainter]

Thanks Nate

And yes, the bung for the cap is also needed (figures).

You should be able to sell your plastic tank items for enough to easily cover the costs..

[Episteme]

True – selling my existing tank/parts would cover the costs… but unfortunately, there are a couple hurdles preventing me from doing that right away. First, I’d miss out on the last couple weeks of riding season… not going to happen.  Second, I was recently forced to sell the house (long story), and the apartment I’m living in now doesn’t allow vehicle maintenance on the property… so, once I have all the parts together, and returned from the painter <cough>; then I can rent a garage for a week, swap out the parts, and start my own eBay flee market.

I’m totally in love with the 3-tone job you did on Strati’s CF tank! http://www.frostysfinishes.com/strati.html I’m thinking gold instead of red, and a 1/8 inch gap between the black centre line and the gold pinstripe; and carry the black & gold stripe over the CF part of the solo seat and beer tray.

I also bought a used set of forks last year which I intend to get anodized and loaded with Matris internals (Jason at the DoS).  I picked up a really cool CF front fender, and (as you know) a used CF tank. I still need to save up for a solo seat, tail section, steering damper, TPO air intake, Power Commander, new front wheel rim (I’m using an old one that has a nasty crack), and floating disks (mine warped), as well as a front break line.

Basically, I did what I could to just get her back on the road after the accident in 2006 – but it was all patch work… now, I intend to take my time and do it right. No more ghetto paint jobs so to speak.

I should have all the CF bits assembled and ready for paint by the summer/fall.  The forks should be ready by the late fall… really, this is a 2 year plan… but, it keeps me busy, so it’s all good.

After it’s all assembled, I plan to take it to BCM for a really good tune.



Back to the here and now – I’m thinking I can swap the cap assembly from my existing plastic tank. Also, I found a couple different tank hinges on eBay – I’ll go home tonight to measure out the frame and tank to see which one will fit my needs.

Later, and thanks again for your advice, it's greatly appreciated.

Epi

[weemonster]

That apartment building sounds like hell.

<puts pedantic hat on>
Changing the tank for a c/f one isnt maintenance its a Modification.


will your neighbours rat you out?

[Episteme]

worse... they have video cameras everywhere. Good in that I feel my bike is secure, bad in that I feel like I'm being watched all the time.

I may just ask if I can bring the bike up to the apartment over the winter... I doubt that they will agree, but it can't hurt to ask.

[Episteme]

Can someone please confirm that this fuel level sensor will work?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Fuel-Level-Sensor-Ducati-748-996-998-Monster-Supersport_W0QQitemZ190260828611QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item190260828611&_trkparms=72%3A1215%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Thanks!

Epi

[Capo]

Can someone please confirm that this fuel level sensor will work?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Fuel-Level-Sensor-Ducati-748-996-998-Monster-Supersport_W0QQitemZ190260828611QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item190260828611&_trkparms=72%3A1215%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Thanks!

Epi

It looks as tho it will fit (with regard to the size), however it looks slighly different to the one on my S4R, you could have issues with where the low fuel light comes on (but we all have that).

[Episteme]

Thanks for the feedback Capo - much appreciated 

For some reason, my gut is against bidding for that part. It doesn't look exactly like 592.1.015.2a and a bit pricy for a used fuel level sensor.  Then again, the best price I've found so far for a new one is $205.  I think I'll just keep scowering eBay and bumping my WTB post... I'm in no rush.

The Caswell 2-part epoxy tank sealer arrived yesterday. So, I'll be able to give it a couple coats this weekend. The instructions call for tossing in some acetone and drywall screws and giving it a good shake to clean it out and rough up the surface.  That makes me nervous since I thought that acetone would pretty much eat through the CF epoxy... leaving me with a shapeless CF bag. I'm thinking dish soap and warm water would do a fine job without risking damaging the tank.

Thanks again for your help!

Epi

[Capo]

I think that that caswell instruction is for a steel tank. I'd call them before using the acetone.

[ducpainter]

acetone won't melt epoxy.

that said you need to do something about the dried fuel and residues in the tank.

this is why I like the POR process better.

[Episteme]

Projects like this remind me just how obsessive/compulsive (and cheap) I can be… 

the POR-15 might not be as ‘hard’ as the Caswell… but it’s easier to apply… lesson learned.

Right – first task is to remove the residue from the tank. Got it. Acetone won’t harm the tank… that's comforting - thanks!

Oddly enough, I re-read the instructions that came with the Caswell kit, and the only metal-tank-specific instructions was to use lye to clean out the tank, and vinegar to neutralize the lye. The acetone/drywall-screws thing was universal to all tank types - evidently, I’ll be making the world’s biggest maraca tonight. Ole! and gracias! 

[Episteme]

Here are the Caswell instructions... for reference.

GAS TANK SEALER Application Instructions
This applies to both metal and fiberglass tanks.
Preparation

1. All traces of oil and gasoline should first be removed by pouring about 1 pint of acetone or lacquer thinner into the tank, and rotating the tank several times to thoroughly sluice the sides with solvent. Dispose of the contaminated solution. Allow to dry.

2.Rinse the tank with Dawn Dish Soap and Hot Water. Rinse and allow to thoroughly dry.

3.ADDITIONAL STEP FOR ALUMINUM TANKS: Add two tablespoons of LYE (Drano) to one gallon of water. ADD LYE TO WATER, NOT WATER TO LYE. WEAR PROTECTIVE GEAR. Slosh the solution around in the tank for 30 seconds. Pour solution out and dispose. Rinse with water and pour off. Add 80z of vinegar into a quart of water and slosh around in tank for 30 seconds. This neutralizes the lye. Pour off and rinse with water. Allow to dry.
 
4. Place a hand full of drywall screws with about a pint of acetone or lacquer thinner into the tank and shake them around vigorously for several minutes. These will dislodge any loose particles of rust, and in the case of plastic/fiberglass, rough up the surface. Dispose of the contaminated solution. Allow to dry.

5. Apply duct tape or masking tape to any weeping seams, holes or porous areas. This will stop any Gas Tank Sealer from oozing out, and will allow it to bridge over the hole. Plug the outlet ports with putty or Play-Doh.

6. If the tank has a good paint job, protect it from resin spillage by wrapping in a layer of GLADWRAP, then a layer of ALUMINUM FOIL, then another layer of GLADWRAP.

Mixing ratio is 2 parts of A: 1 part B. Gas Tank Sealer resins should be at room temperature. Colder than 65 OF will make resin thick and not flow well, hotter than 85 OF will make in runny, so it doesn't stick to the sides well, and it will cure too quickly. Mix up the required amount of Gas Tank Sealer (one unit should treat UP TO two x five gallon tanks, this will depend entirely on the total surface area)
There is NO relationship of volume to surface area, ie:

Tank: 12"x 12"x12" = 7.48 gals = 864 sq inches
Tank: 12" x 144" x 1" = 7.48 gals = 2040 sq inches

If you are only treating ONE 5 gal (or smaller) tank, then divide parts A & B in half. You could use a dipstick to gauge this. DO NOT mix anything less than HALF UNITS! You may apply a second application within 24 hours if you want to use up the resin. This is, of course, good insurance on a bad tank, or one with many baffles etc.

In a separate plastic container (margarine tube etc.) mix the two parts together thoroughly for at least 2 minutes. Scrape around the sides to ensure all resin is blended together.

1. Pour into the tank, then immediately seal up the filler hole with GLADWRAP and an elastic band. Swill the tank around in every direction for several minutes to obtain a good layer of Gas Tank Sealer over all surfaces. Remove the filler cap, GLADWRAP seal, and pour out any excess. Allow to drain upside down for a few minutes.

2.If you have a built in fuel filter, blow air into the fuel line port for about 10 minutes. This will clear the filter of any Gas Tank Sealer.

3.Trim up any excess material as soon as the Gas Tank Sealer becomes plastic like. This can be scraped out with a sharp knife at this point (usually about 40-60 Min after mixing) Place the tank in a warm 70-90 degrees F place and allow to cure for 24-36 hours before putting gasoline in the tank.

4.If you want, or need to apply a second coat, you must do so while the first coat is still tacky (usually within 24 hours)

5.If you can elevate the temperature of the tank to 140 degrees F for 4 hours, this will 'post cure' the resin and the tank may be put into immediate service.