Another quickie install for you guys on the 696. This thread highlights a Speedymoto frame slider install. This should be similar to other kits on the market. The concept should be the same (I hope).
Again, this is another simple install with basic hand tools. This should take no longer than 30 mins working straight through. I think I completed this in 15 minutes or less. Seriously.
Disclaimer: This should be used as a reference only and should make life much easier. My local shops wanted at least 30 minutes of labor charges.. That equates to $50 for the install that took me literally less than 15 minutes. Your call.
You can link this but please give credit. That's all I ask.
Tools:
-(2) ratchet wrenches with (2) 15mm sockets
-rubber mallet
-needle nose pliers
-torque wrench
-"blue" thread locker
-5/16" allen wrench or metric equivalent
-floor jack
Guess what?? No bike stand needed!!!!!!!!!!
Step 1.
Gather your tools and take a deep breath.
Step 2. (Please note that I'm only picturing one side to save time. The other side is identical in operation unless noted..)
Locate the frame/engine bolt. You should see a 15mm nut on the right side of the bike (if you are sitting on the bike) and the bolt "head" on the left side. Stick one ratchet wrench w/ 15mm socket on each end. The tricky part is reaching from the top of the bike to both sides and loosening up the bolt. If you have help, have someone hold one side steady while you undo the other side. The bolts aren't torqued on tight so it shouldn't take Hurcules to undo them. Keep on wrenching until the nut on the right side comes all the way out.
The needle nose pliers come in handy for this part to remove the nut from the right side.
Step 3.
Here was the most feared portion of the install until I found out how easy it really was. With the nut on the right side removed from Step 2, take the new engine bolt and begin to push the stock bolt out from right side to left side. You should easily be able to push the old bolt out with the new bolt supplied with the Speedymoto kit.
Hand strength is only needed. Do not hammer. Obviously as you push from one side the other side should be pushing out.
New bolt being pushed in....
As old bolt is being driven out on the other side..
As you continue to push, the old bolt will finally drop free from the other side but here's where you'll run into a speed bump. The hole is misaligned. Take a peek and you will see that the new rod is hitting the frame.This is where the floor jack comes into play. Place the floor jack with a pad underneath the engine and LIGHTLY jack until the holes align. Watch the holes as you jack up the engine. It shouldn't take much at all.. Remember go light and super slow!
The holes should align now.
Step 4.
Now that the hole is aligned on the left side, you can continue to drive the new bolt in. I used a rubber mallet and LIGHTLY LIGHTLY tapped the right side to get it on through. Again, key word is LIGHT.
As this point, the jack is still "holding the weight" of the engine. The bolt is free spinning.
Step 5.
Take "blue" thread locker (I used blue because it can be removed later) and put some on each side of the bolt on the exposed threads.
Take the supplied puck/slider mounts and hand thread them on each side.
Step 6.
Using the ratchet wrenches with 15mm sockets, begin the tighten both sides at the same time. Either do both sides at the same time yourself over the top of the bike or have a friend help out.
I tightened until I couldn't tighten any further...hand tight.
Step 7.
This was when I released the jack and had the weight of the engine finally resting on the new bolt. Take a torque wrench with the 15mm socket and torque both sides down individually. I followed Speedymoto's instructions and used 37 ft.lbs. That's plenty of torque. The stock bolt and nut probably had less than that.
The hard part is finally out of the way.
Step 8.
Install the sliders on each side on the puck mounts. Follow the supplied diagram included with the kit.
On each side.. Put the large washer on first, then the slider, then the small washer, then the hex bolt. Put some thread locker on the hex bolt as well.
I only had a small allen wrench so I couldn't get any leverage. I used the floor jack's handle as leverage and torqued it down hand tight and a tiny bit extra. That should be plenty of torque. I think instructions quoted 15 ft.lbs.
Do this on both sides and you are DONE!
Final product
