Front rotor bolts

[krista]

+1 here. OMG they're a bastid. Definitely start with the hand-hammer impact and torx bit. I, too, broke a torx bit and spent hours mucking about with it before learning the error of my ways. I replace with stainless M8x25 screws.

Chris

[DuciD03]

wow; I was lucky I guess; I happened to walk in on a ducati tec that was using a pencil tourch on the rotor allen bolts; so when I removed mine I used a propane tourch; I did cook the bolts and they now have a nice titanium coloured look too; but all came out no-problem-o.

[DucHead]

... I replace with stainless M8x25 screws.

I was thinking of this, but don't the torx head give more surface area/grip for removal?  Would a regular hex-head Allen hold up to hammer impact?

[ducpainter]

I was thinking of this, but don't the torx head give more surface area/grip for removal?  Would a regular hex-head Allen hold up to hammer impact?

Yup...except for a couple....

[Speeddog]

If you've got a Monster with the mechanical speedo drive, you can't use regular allen heads on that side.

DAMHIK.

[ducpainter]

If you've got a Monster with the mechanical speedo drive, you can't use regular allen heads on that side.

DAMHIK.

Mine uses a very short headed allen screw.

Is that what you mean Nick?

[Speeddog]

Mine uses a very short headed allen screw.

Is that what you mean Nick?

Yep.

[krista]

The technical term is "low head". Button heads are the other kind of low profile bolts. Button heads usually won't fit into counter-bored "wells" that some brake rotors have.

[ChrisK]

This is an old old thread, but it's the only topic that talks about exactly the problem I'm having.

Trying to remove the front rotor bolts and they will not budge. I know this thread talks about heating them and hitting them with a hammer-driver; but, just by putting my allan key in them and pulling on it I'm starting to deform the bolt heads slightly. The key is NOT slipping out of the head and is the correct size. The heads are just that soft AND stuck that I'm deforming them by hand.

Where should I go from here? I let them soak with PB Blaster around each bolt over night and nada. Should I proceed with heat + hand torquing? heat + hammer driver? What do you think?

[ChrisK]

Well now I technically don't need the answer to this question. I was taking them off because I'm changing tires, but I just called the shop and asked and they said that they don't need me to take the rotors off. Normally I would change the tires myself, but there's a shop a half mile from my house that will change a tire and balance the wheel for $15, so I'm being lazy.

STILL THOUGH, for the future when I need to swap out rotors, what would you guys suggest?

[Raux]

the other issue now is that you may have softened/loosened the bolts you tried and they may need to be relocktited (?) and retq'd

but yes... heat heat and more heat til they come off. also you can try a breaker bar for more leverage

[ChrisK]

Yeah I understand there could be some worry about whether or not I 'loosened' them... but I'm thinking I'm going to forget about it. I was torquing on them HARD and they didn't budge. If they stood up to that, I think they'll probably remain in place.

[Howie]

When you whack them with the impact driver you are producing a down force as well as rotational so you are less likely to round the head.  Also the impact action helps loosen by shock.  Also, tool quality of the allen makes a difference.  It doesn't need to be Snap-On, but should not be a cheapo.

[Autostrada Pilot]

Lots of good info in this thread-just another reason I love this place.

Thanks.

[ChrisK]

Was using Craftsman, but still only a little 5 inch long key. Need to invest in some allan sockets that I can use with my torque wrench...