Trimming Carbon Fiber Bellypan

[tankerbutt]

I have a question about trimming a carbon fiber bellypan. I can't seem to find anything about what to use when doing this.  i know that the dust is really nasty, but what can i use to make a clean cut.  i have a 01 M600 with the full bellypan and it rubs like crazy when i lean the bike over when cornering.  i want to cut/modify the back of it since this gives me the most trouble.  anybody have any suggestions/experience with this type of mod?  also, if anybody has any better suggestions than cutting it to provide more ground clearence i'd really appreciate it.  thanks in advance.  i've attached a pic to show you the style bellypan

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3083/2783029992_e9a2a75903.jpg

[ducpainter]

You could raise your rear ride height and or check sag.

You are probably undersprung.

[hypurone]

If you still need to trim it afterwards. I have used a Dremel with either the cut-off wheel (for straight line stuff) or the high speed carbide steel bit (for contoured trimming) with great results. Set the tool to its highest speed setting (10) and be sure to wear a mask and goggles. You could use a couple of the painters' masks doubled up, just make sure they seal on your face well.

[b.]

+1.  I used a dremel to trim my rear hugger and it worked perfect.

[tankerbutt]

You could raise your rear ride height and or check sag.

You are probably undersprung.

if my adjustment knob on the rear shock is already adjusted to its maximum i probablly need either a new spring, or a new rear shock correct?  ps thanks for the dremel tool suggestion.

[psycledelic]

When you dremel, Don't forget the mask/goggles and get away from everything else.  That dust gets everywhere. 

[ducpainter]

if my adjustment knob on the rear shock is already adjusted to its maximum i probablly need either a new spring, or a new rear shock correct?  ps thanks for the dremel tool suggestion.

The adjustments on the stock rear shock are just for rebound damping.

They have no effect on ride height or compression damping.

A new spring is definitely needed.

The actual ride height is adjusted with the heim joints on the end of the wishbone that attaches the shock to the swing arm.

Raising ride height will affect how your bike steers so be aware of it and make adjustments a small amount each time.

[TAftonomos]

Also, if the rear is waaaay undersprung, and you've got the rebound cranked all the way up, the back of the bike is probably "ratcheting" down.  Meaning the spring is way to soft, and with the rebound jacked all the way up, the shock doesn't return to it's normal setting between bumps, so it ends up lower/lower/lower until it's so low you are dragging parts you shouldn't be


Try releasing the rebound a bit and see if that helps.

Again, don't make any HUGE changes and then go hang off the bike and crash.

[tankerbutt]

Well thanks for all of the help.  It's winter here in Wisconsin so the suspension adjustments will have to wait until spring.  But thanks again for all of the tips.  I've already got the itch to start riding and it's only December. 

[Norm]

Masks and goggles are for sissies.

[jonnyom900]

just a quick tip over the dremel tool. if your cutting straight and planning to use the cut off wheel, dont use the ceramic ones as they can overheat and cause scorching, your best using the larger woven type ones (like a small angle grinder disc) they cut cleaner, don't shatter and nearly blind you and they last longer.


just a quick pointless tip.

[supertjeduc]

Masks and goggles are for sissies.

+1