Is there a way to shorten the rotation on monsters throttle?

[maltese]

Ok, I may be saying it wrong, but I know that on DRZ 400's you can buy a different tube for the throttle control on your handle bars to take it from a 1/4 turn to like a 1/6th turn.  Does this mod exist for the monster or...??  I tried searching and came up with a bunch of posts about ECU's and other things to do with throttle.

thanks in advance!

Edited the title due to a typo

[Duck-Stew]

Ok, I may be saying it wrong, but I know that on DRZ 400's you can buy a different tube for the throttle control on your handle bars to take it from a 1/4 turn to like a 1/6th turn.  Does this mod exist for the monster or...??  I tried searching and came up with a bunch of posts about ECU's and other things to do with throttle.

thanks in advance!

Edited the title due to a typo

If your bike is fuel-injected, a SBK throttle (from a 748-998) has two advantages.  1)quicker turn (what you're after) 2)A bump-idle button on the bottom of the housing which acts like a high-idle button for cold weather starts.  That way, you can eliminate the 'choke' lever and cable from the left side of the handlebars and just use this button.

[Bill in OKC]

This *might* work depending on your bike
http://www.electraeon.com/throttlecam.html

[maltese]

If your bike is fuel-injected, a SBK throttle (from a 748-998) has two advantages.  1)quicker turn (what you're after) 2)A bump-idle button on the bottom of the housing which acts like a high-idle button for cold weather starts.  That way, you can eliminate the 'choke' lever and cable from the left side of the handlebars and just use this button.

Cool, how hard is the install and about how much do they cost?

[Spidey]

There's one on eBay right now for $75 for the whole assembly and throttle tube.  There's a rashed one there for cheaper.  I've seen good conditions ones for $30 on eBay.  If you buy one OEM it's gonna be $$$.

Here are two close-up pics of what Stew is talking about.





One dislike about the idle button is that it's easy to disengage if you habitually blip the throttle when you downshift.  If it's cold out and the engine is still cold, I often stall the bike when coming to stops when I accidentally disengage the fast ideal.  I've gotten in the habit of keeping the throttle slightly cracked until the engine warms up. 

[Jarvicious]

Are there any problems with throttle cable length or did it pretty much bolt up to your original system?  I could use a new throttle cable anyway, mine's been sticking pretty bad and lube doesn't seem to help.  Plus, getting rid of the high throttle lever sounds like a good plan to me. 

Afterthought.  It seems like my throtle (05 S2r 800) is twitchy and delicate enough already.  If this goes the same for other FI bikes, I think that might be waaaaaay too sensitive, especially at high revs. 

[Speeddog]

-----------------snip------------------
 I could use a new throttle cable anyway, mine's been sticking pretty bad and lube doesn't seem to help. 
-----------------snip------------------

Have you cleaned between the bar and the throttle tube, then lightly greased?

[Jarvicious]

Yeah.  It's not the grip assy that's sticking, it's the cable running through the housing.  I think part of the problem is the fact that the cable is rubbing a little rut in the plastic housing just before the cable enters the flexible housing.  I tried tri-flow, but the local tech said that may be too heavy a lube and will probably just gum things up (which I think happened). 

[Capo]

You need to strip it all, examine the cable inner for kinks (replace) hang the cable vertical and work some WD40 in from the top till in appears clean at the bottom, then work some light oil in. Check that the throttle snap shut, when refitting the cable , ensure a smooth cable run, and check the cable where it enters the throttle and transition on to the drum, is not binding. A little light grease is adequate lubrication.

[DucatiBastard]

There's one on eBay right now for $75 for the whole assembly and throttle tube...   

So if i wanted to do this to my 06 S2R 800 all i would need is a throttle assy. similar to this?

[Spidey]

So if i wanted to do this to my 06 S2R 800 all i would need is a throttle assy. similar to this?

Hmmm . . . that link changed.  It used to be the assy & the tube.  I *think* you need both, but I could be wrong.

[erkishhorde]

Yeah.  It's not the grip assy that's sticking, it's the cable running through the housing.  I think part of the problem is the fact that the cable is rubbing a little rut in the plastic housing just before the cable enters the flexible housing.  I tried tri-flow, but the local tech said that may be too heavy a lube and will probably just gum things up (which I think happened). 

I have this happening on my bike. There's a very nice rut in the white plastic cable guide that sits inside the throttle assembly. Seriously stiff throttle and extreme wear on the cable. I killed a new opener cable in about a year. 

[DucatiBastard]

Hmmm . . . that link changed.  It used to be the assy & the tube.  I *think* you need both, but I could be wrong.

i think i'll get both the assy. and tube to make sure, Thanks Spidey!

[Jarvicious]

Let us know how it works out when you get it fit up, bastard.  Oh ,and Capo how do you get the cable out of the housing?  Aren't the lead ends press fit onto the ends of the cables or do I just do all the lubing on one end and do it enough to where the other end comes out clean? 

[Capo]

Let us know how it works out when you get it fit up, bastard.  Oh ,and Capo how do you get the cable out of the housing?  Aren't the lead ends press fit onto the ends of the cables or do I just do all the lubing on one end and do it enough to where the other end comes out clean? 

Correct. There is also a device that clamps and seals around the cable and uses hydraulic pressure to force the lubricant into the cable.